Frommer's Australia from 50 a Day

673 Pages·2004·11.331 MB·English

by  Marc Llewellyn, Lee Mylne

Australia
from $50 a Day
13th Edition
by Marc Llewellyn & Lee Mylne
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Wiley Publishing,Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval sys-
tem or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photo-
copying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107
or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written
permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate
per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers,
MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax [phone]. Requests to the Publisher for per-
mission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc.,
10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax
317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-3928-0
Editor: Billy Fox
Production Editor: M. Faunette Johnston
Cartographer: John Decamillis
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that
appears in print may not be available in electronic formats.
Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps viii
What’s New in Australia 1
1 The Best of Australia 3
1 The Top Travel Experiences . . . . . .3 9 The Best of Small-Town
2 The Best Outdoor Adventures . . . .5 Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
3 The Best Places to View 10 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . .12
Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 11 The Best Moderately
4 The Best Places to Priced Accommodations . . . . . . .13
Experience the Outback . . . . . . . .7 12 The Best Alternative
5 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Accommodations . . . . . . . . . . . .14
6 The Best Affordable Diving 13 The Best Places to Stay
& Snorkeling Sites . . . . . . . . . . . .9 on a Shoestring . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
7 The Best Places to 14 The Best Worth-a-Splurge
Bushwalk (Hike) . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
8 The Best Places to Learn 15 The Best Dining Bargains . . . . . .16
About Aboriginal Culture . . . . . .11
2 Planning an Affordable Trip to Australia 18
by Lee Mylne
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .18 12 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .48
2 The $50-a-Day Premise . . . . . . .24 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .50
3 Fifty Money-Saving Tips . . . . . . .24 13 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
4 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .29 Coping with Jet Lag . . . . . . . . .54
5 Entry Requirements Flying with Film & Video . . . . . .55
& Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 14 Packages for the
6 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Independent Traveler . . . . . . . . .56
The Australian Dollar, the U.S. 15 Escorted General-Interest
Dollar & the British Pound . . . . .34 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57
7 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 16 The Active Traveler . . . . . . . . . . .58
Australia Calendar of Events . . .37 17 Getting Around Australia . . . . . .63
8 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .39 18 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . .74
9 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Saving on Your Hotel Room . . . .78
10 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .42 19 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
11 Planning an Affordable Witchetty Grubs, Lilli-Pillies
Trip Online . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 & Other Good Eats . . . . . . . . . .80
Frommers.com: The 20 Recommended Books & Films . . .81
Complete Travel Resource . . . . .48 Fast Facts: Australia . . . . . . . . .81
iv CONTENTS
3 Sydney 87
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Great Deals on Sightseeing . . .131
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .92 A Walk on the Wild Side:
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Climbing the Harbour Bridge . . .135
Fast Facts: Sydney . . . . . . . . . .103 6 Harbor Cruises &
Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .148
3 Accommodations You Can
Afford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 7 Staying Active . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Super Cheap Sleeps . . . . . . . . .113 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .153
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .118 9 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153
What to Know About BYO . . . .118 10 Sydney After Dark . . . . . . . . . .161
5 What to See & Do in Sydney . .130
4 New South Wales 167
by Marc Llewellyn
1 The Blue Mountains . . . . . . . . .168 4 North of Sydney Along
2 The Hunter Valley: the Pacific Highway:
Wine Tasting & More . . . . . . . .178 Australia’s Holiday Coast . . . . .188
Bunking Down in a Byron on a Super
Caravan, Man . . . . . . . . . . . . .183 Cheap Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . .195
Something Special: A Cattle 5 South of Sydney
Station in the Upper Hunter . . .184 Along the Princes Highway . . . .198
3 Port Stephens:Dolphin- 6 The Snowy Mountains:
& Whale-Watching . . . . . . . . .185 Australia’s Ski Country . . . . . . .205
7 Outback New South Wales . . . .207
5 Brisbane 215
by Lee Mylne
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215 Cheap Thrills: What to
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .219 See & Do for Free (or Almost)
in Brisbane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .220
6 River Cruises &
Fast Facts: Brisbane . . . . . . . . .224
Other Organized Tours . . . . . . .236
3 Accommodations You
7 Outdoor Pursuits in Brisbane . .238
Can Afford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225
8 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .239
4 Great Deals on Dining . . . . . . .229
9 Brisbane After Dark . . . . . . . . .240
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .231
Brisbane’s Historic Pubs . . . . . .242
5 Exploring Brisbane . . . . . . . . . .232
10 Moreton Bay & Islands . . . . . . .243
CONTENTS v
6 Queensland & the Great Barrier Reef 248
by Lee Mylne
Cheap Thrills: What to 5 The Whitsunday Coast
See & Do for Free (or & Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307
Almost) in Queensland . . . . . . .252 Come Sail with Me . . . . . . . . .312
Follow the Heritage Trails . . . .253 6 The Capricorn Coast &
1 Exploring the Great the Southern Reef Islands . . . .322
Barrier Reef . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 Up Close & Personal
Budget Snorkeling & Diving . . .261 with a Turtle . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330
2 Cairns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 7 Fraser Island:Eco–Adventures
Where’s the Beach? . . . . . . . .276 & 4WD Fun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .332
3 Port Douglas,Daintree & 8 The Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . . .336
the Cape Tribulation Area . . . . .285 9 The Gold Coast . . . . . . . . . . . .344
4 The North Coast:Mission 10 The Gold Coast Hinterland:
Beach,Townsville & Back to Nature . . . . . . . . . . . .356
the Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295 11 Outback Queensland . . . . . . . .361
On the Dinosaur Trail . . . . . . . .364
7 The Red Centre 368
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Exploring the Red Centre . . . . .368 4 Kings Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . .385
2 Alice Springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371 5 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park
Earning a Degree from (Ayers Rock/The Olgas) . . . . . .387
Didgeridoo University . . . . . . . .375 Dinner in the Desert . . . . . . . .391
3 Road Trips from Alice Springs . . .382 When You See the Southern
Road-Trip Tips for the Cross for the First Time . . . . . .393
East & West Macs . . . . . . . . . .383
8 The Top End 395
by Lee Mylne
Croc Alert! (& Other 2 Kakadu National Park . . . . . . .409
Safety Tips) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398 Never Smile at a
1 Darwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .398 You-Know-What . . . . . . . . . . .411
Cheap Eats & More! . . . . . . . .406 3 Katherine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .416
vi CONTENTS
9 Perth & Western Australia 421
by Lee Mylne
Tip-Toeing Through the 3 Margaret River & the
Wildflowers . . . . . . . . . . . . . .424 Southwest:Wine Tasting
1 Perth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .425 & Underground Wonders . . . . .455
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .428 4 The Goldfields . . . . . . . . . . . . .461
FastFacts: Perth . . . . . . . . . . .430 5 The Midwest & the
Northwest:Where the
2 Side Trips from Perth . . . . . . . .448
Outback Meets the Sea . . . . . .464
6 The Kimberley:
A Far-Flung Wilderness . . . . . .471
10 Adelaide & South Australia 486
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Adelaide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .488 3 Kangaroo Island . . . . . . . . . . .511
The Adelaide & Culling Koalas—
Womadelaide Festivals . . . . . .490 A National Dilemma . . . . . . . .516
Fast Facts: Adelaide . . . . . . . . .493 4 Outback South Australia . . . . .519
2 Side Trips from Adelaide . . . . . .504 A Fabulous Four-Wheel-
So Much Wine, Drive Adventure . . . . . . . . . . .523
So Little Time . . . . . . . . . . . . .505 5 The Coorong . . . . . . . . . . . . . .524
11 Melbourne 526
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .526 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . .544
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .529 6 Enjoying the Great
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .531 Outdoors or Catching an
Aussie Rules Football Match . . .549
Fast Facts: Melbourne . . . . . . .532
7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .551
3 Accommodations You
Death by Chocolate . . . . . . . . .553
Can Afford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .533
8 Melbourne After Dark . . . . . . .554
4 Great Deals on Dining . . . . . . .538
9 Side Trips from Melbourne . . . .559
12 Victoria 567
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Ballarat:Gold-Rush City . . . . . .567 4 The Southeast Coast . . . . . . . .579
2 The Great Ocean Road: 5 The High Country . . . . . . . . . .580
One of the World’s Most
6 The Northwest:
Scenic Drives . . . . . . . . . . . . . .572
Grampians National Park . . . . .585
3 The Murray River . . . . . . . . . . .575
CONTENTS vii
13 Canberra 588
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .588 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .595
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .591 5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . .596
Fast Facts: Canberra . . . . . . . .592 Up, Up & Away . . . . . . . . . . . .597
3 Accommodations You 6 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .600
Can Afford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .593 7 Canberra After Dark . . . . . . . . .600
14 Tasmania 602
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Hobart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .606 The Plight of Taz . . . . . . . . . . .622
2 Port Arthur:Discovering 5 Cradle Mountain & Lake
Tasmania’s Convict Heritage . . .617 St.Clair National Park . . . . . . .626
3 Freycinet National Park . . . . . .619 Hiking the Overland Track . . . .628
4 Launceston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .621 6 The West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . .629
Appendix:Australia in Depth 633
by Marc Llewellyn
1 Australia’s Natural World . . . . .633 Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .637
2 The People of Oz . . . . . . . . . . .635 4 Aussie Eats & Drinks . . . . . . . .640
3 Australian History 101 . . . . . . .637
Index 642
List of Maps
Australia 20 The Gold Coast 345
Greater Sydney Region 89 The Red Centre 369
Sydney at a Glance 94 Alice Springs 373
Sydney Transportation Systems 98 The Northern Territory 397
Central Sydney Accommodations Darwin 399
108
Western Australia 423
Central Sydney Dining 120
Perth 427
Central Sydney Attractions 132
The Kimberley Region 473
New South Wales 169
South Australia 487
The Blue Mountains 171
Adelaide 489
The Hunter Valley 179
Adelaide Hills 509
Greater Brisbane 217
Kangaroo Island 512
Brisbane 222
Greater Melbourne 527
Moreton Bay & Islands 245
Melbourne Accommodations 535
Queensland 250
Melbourne Dining 539
The Great Barrier Reef 255
Melbourne Attractions 545
Cairns 267
Side Trips from Melbourne 561
Port Douglas, Daintree &
Victoria 569
Cape Tribulation 287
Canberra 589
The Whitsunday Islands 309
Tasmania 603
The Sunshine Coast 337
Hobart 607
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Australia from $50 a Day, 13th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
About the Authors
Sydney resident Marc Llewellynis one of Australia’s premier travel writers and the win-
ner of several travel writing awards, including the Australian Society of Travel Writer’s
Travel Writer of the Year award 2001/2002. His latest travelogue, Riders to the Midnight
Sun,tells of his cycle journey from the Ukrainian Black Sea to Arctic Russia—in a bid to
escape the Australian heat.
Lee Mylneis a Brisbane-based travel writer who writes for a range of publications, includ-
ing the national travel trade magazine, Travel Week Australia.Born and raised in New
Zealand, she traveled widely before finally figuring out she could make a living out of it.
She has lived in Australia for the past 16 years and is currently president of the Australian
Society of Travel Writers. She is also a co-author of Frommer’s Australia 2004, andFrom-
mer’s Portable Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Australia
Frommer’s Portable Australia’s Great Barrier Reef
Frommer’s Adventure Guides: Australia & New Zealand
The Unofficial Guide to the World’s Best Diving Vacations