Frommer's Arizona 2004

481 Pages·2004·7.383 MB·English

by  Karl Samson, Jane Aukshunas

Arizona
2004
by Karl Samson
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About the Author
Karl Samson finds that the sunny winter skies of the Arizona desert are the perfect
antidote to the dreary winters of his Pacific Northwest home. Each winter, he flees
the rain to explore Arizona’s deserts, mountains, cities, and small towns. It is the
state’s unique regional style, Native American cultures, abundance of contemporary
art, and, of course, boundless landscapes that keep him fascinated by Arizona.
Summers find him researching his other books, including Frommer’s Washington,
Frommer’s Oregon, and Frommer’s Seattle & Portland.
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ISBN 0-7645-3887-X
ISSN 1534-2123
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5 4 3 2 1
Contents
List of Maps vi
What’s New in Arizona 1
1 The Best of Arizona 4
1 The Best Places to Commune 11 The Best Places to Discover
with Cacti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 the Old West . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
2 The Best Active Vacations . . . . . .4 12 The Best Places to See
3 The Best Day Hikes & Indian Ruins . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Nature Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 13 The Best Luxury Hotels &
4 The Best Scenic Drives . . . . . . . .8 Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
5 The Best Golf Courses . . . . . . . .9 14 The Best Family Resorts . . . . . .15
6 The Best Bird-Watching Spots . .10 15 The Best Hotels for
Old Arizona Character . . . . . . . .15
7 The Best Offbeat Travel
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 16 The Best B&Bs . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
8 The Best Family Experiences . . .11 17 The Best Swimming Pools . . . . .17
9 The Best Family Vacations . . . . .11 18 The Best Places to Savor
Southwest Flavors . . . . . . . . . .18
10 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . .12
2 Planning Your Trip to Arizona 19
1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .19 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .33
2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .20 Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .34
Destination: Arizona— 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Red Alert Checklist . . . . . . . . . .21 11 Escorted Tours,Package Deals &
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Special-Interest Vacations . . . . . .38
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 12 The Active Vacation Planner . . .40
Arizona Calendar of Events . . . .24 Hot Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
5 Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 13 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .46
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .28 14 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .48
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .29 15 Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .49
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .32 16 Recommended Reading . . . . . .50
Frommers.com: The Complete Fast Facts: Arizona . . . . . . . . . .52
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .33
3 For International Visitors 54
1 Preparing for Your Trip . . . . . . .54 3 Getting Around the U.S. . . . . . .61
2 Getting to the U.S. . . . . . . . . . .60 Fast Facts: For the International
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
iv CONTENTS
4 Phoenix,Scottsdale & the Valley of the Sun 67
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 7 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . .129
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . .73 8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .135
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .74 9 Day Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Fast Facts: Phoenix . . . . . . . . . .76 10 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 11 Phoenix After Dark . . . . . . . . .145
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 12 A Side Trip from Phoenix:
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .109 the Apache Trail . . . . . . . . . . .152
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .115 13 En Route to Tucson . . . . . . . . .154
Frommer’s Favorite 14 En Route to Northern
Phoenix Experiences . . . . . . . .123 Arizona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
6 Organized Tours
& Excursions . . . . . . . . . . . . .127
5 Central Arizona 157
1 Wickenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 5 Sedona & Oak Creek
2 Prescott . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
Vortex Power . . . . . . . . . . . . .183
3 Jerome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171
The High Cost of
4 The Verde Valley . . . . . . . . . . .174
Red-Rock Views . . . . . . . . . . .185
6 The Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona 203
1 Flagstaff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 4 South Rim Alternatives:
2 Williams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215 Havasu Canyon & Grand Canyon
West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243
3 The Grand Canyon
South Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 5 The Grand Canyon
North Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247
Fast Facts:
The Grand Canyon . . . . . . . . .223
The Four Corners Region:
7 Land of the Hopi & Navajo 253
1 Winslow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256 5 Canyon de Chelly
2 The Hopi Reservation . . . . . . .258 National Monument . . . . . . . .272
A Native American Fred Harvey & His Girls . . . . . .275
Crafts Primer . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 6 Navajo National Monument . . .277
3 The Petrified Forest & 7 Monument Valley Navajo
Painted Desert . . . . . . . . . . . .266 Tribal Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
4 The Window Rock & 8 Lake Powell & Page . . . . . . . .281
Ganado Areas . . . . . . . . . . . .269
CONTENTS v
8 Eastern Arizona’s High Country 290
1 Payson & the Mogollon 3 Greer & Sunrise Park . . . . . . .298
Rim Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290 4 Springerville & Eagar . . . . . . .302
2 Pinetop-Lakeside . . . . . . . . . .294 5 The Coronado Trail . . . . . . . . .305
The Rodeo-Chediski Fire . . . . .295
9 Tucson 307
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308 Frommer’s Favorite
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . .312 Tucson Experiences . . . . . . . .355
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .312 The Shrine That Stopped
a Freeway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .356
Fast Facts: Tucson . . . . . . . . .314
Walking Tour: Downtown
3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . .315
Historic Districts . . . . . . . . . . .358
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . .321
6 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .362
4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .329
7 Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . .362
North-of-the-Border
8 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .367
Margaritaville . . . . . . . . . . . . .334
9 Day Spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .367
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .342
10 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .368
5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . .344
11 Tucson After Dark . . . . . . . . . .374
10 Southern Arizona 380
1 Organ Pipe Cactus 5 Sierra Vista & the
National Monument . . . . . . . .381 San Pedro Valley . . . . . . . . . . .395
2 Tubac & Buenos Aires 6 Tombstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401
National Wildlife Refuge . . . . .382
7 Bisbee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .405
Starry, Starry Nights . . . . . . . .389
8 Exploring the Rest
3 Nogales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390 of Cochise County . . . . . . . . .409
4 Patagonia & Sonoita . . . . . . . .391
11 Western Arizona 418
1 Kingman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .420 4 Lake Havasu &
2 Lake Mead National the London Bridge . . . . . . . . .431
Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . .423 Canoeing the Colorado . . . . . .433
Get Your Kicks on Route 66 . . .424 5 Yuma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .439
3 Bullhead City &
Laughlin,Nevada . . . . . . . . . .428
vi CONTENTS
Appendix:Arizona in Depth 444
1 The Natural Environment . . . . .445 2 Arizona Today . . . . . . . . . . . .447
Arizona: Hollywood 3 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .449
Back Lot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .446
Index 455
List of Maps
Arizona 6 Grand Canyon South Rim 225
Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of The Four Corners Region 255
the Sun 70
Eastern Arizona’s
Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of High Country 291
the Sun Accommodations 78
Tucson at a Glance 310
Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of
Tucson Accommodations 316
the Sun Dining 98
Tucson Dining 330
Phoenix, Scottsdale & the Valley of
Tucson Attractions 346
the Sun Attractions 116
Walking Tour: Downtown
Central Arizona 159
Historic Districts 359
Sedona & Vicinity 181
Southern Arizona 383
The Grand Canyon &
Western Arizona 419
Northern Arizona 205
Flagstaff 207
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Arizona 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Grand Canyon National Park
Frommer’s Family Vacations in the National Parks
Frommer’s National Parks of the American West
Frommer’s American Southwest
Frommer’s Star Ratings,Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature iconsthat point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Finds Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family
Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards:
AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
What’s New in Arizona
D
espite the sluggish economy and The spa and river-like swimming pool
general reluctance on the part of many are the best features here.
people to travel, Arizona has remained However, if it’s a wildly entertaining
a very popular vacation destination. water park your family is looking for
Sure there have been the inevitable in its next vacation destination, then
closings, but the state has also bucked book a room at the Pointe South
economic trends by opening three Mountain Resort, 7777 S. Pointe
huge new mega-resorts in the Phoenix Pkwy., Phoenix (& 877/800-4888;
area. Here are some of the highlights www.pointesouthmtn.com), which
on the Arizona travel scene. now boasts the biggest and best water
park at any resort in Arizona.
PHOENIX, SCOTTSDALE & THE
On the other hand, if you and your
VALLEY OF THE SUN Although
significant other are looking for a
the Phoenix area’s three new resorts are
romantic getaway where you can
for the most part geared toward con-
enjoy a few spa treatments, then check
ference business, they all have plenty
in to the deliciously romantic Royal
of great amenities for vacationers.
Palms Resort and Spa, 5200 E.
The JW Marriott Desert Ridge
Camelback Rd., Phoenix (& 800/
Resort & Spa, 5350 E. Marriott
Blvd., Phoenix (& 800/835-6206; 672-6011; www.royalpalmsresortand
spa.com), which last year added a small
www.desertridgeresort.com), in north
spa. This boutique resort was once the
Phoenix, is the largest of the three new
winter home of Cunard Steamship
resorts and has a huge pool area and
executive Delos Cooke.
several good restaurants.
Make a reservation at the Wrigley
The Westin Kierland Resort &
Mansion Club, 2501 E. Telawa Trail.
Spa,6902 E. Greenway Pkwy., Scotts-
dale (&800/WESTIN-1;www.westin. (& 602/955-4079 or 602/553-7387;
www.wrigleymansionclub.com), and
com/kierlandresort), goes out of its way
you can dine in the former winter home
to reflect the essence of Arizona and is
of chewing gum magnate William
our favorite of the three. The tubing
Wrigley Jr. Although the historic home
“river” and adult pool by the spa make
is now owned by Geordie Hormel, you
this a great choice for both families and
won’t find Spam on the menu.
couples. It’s also adjacent to the Kier-
Fire eaters take note: Under pressure
land Commons shopping center, which
from pepperheads, we have included
has some excellent restaurants.
in this edition Los Dos Molinos,
The Sheraton Wild Horse Pass
8646 S. Central Ave. (& 602/243-
Resort, 5594 W. Wild Horse Bass
Blvd., Phoenix (& 866/837-4156; 9113), Phoenix’s famous purveyor of
New Mexican–style food for people
www.sheraton.com/wildhorsepass), is
who think Mexican food is never hot
located on an Indian reservation south
enough. To prove that New Mexican
of Phoenix and has a long, winding
food does not have to be incendiary,
artificial river leading up to the resort.