Frommer's Argentina

452 Pages·2009·7.55 MB·English

by  Michael Luongo

spine=.8960"
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Argentina
2nd Edition
by Michael Luongo, Charlie O’Malley &
Christie Pashby
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ISBN 978-0-470-44571-6
Editor: Jamie Ehrlich
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Back cover photo: Patagonia, Upsala Glacier: people admiring view
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C O N T E N T S
LIST OF MAPS vii
WHAT’S NEW IN ARGENTINA 1
1 THE BEST OF ARGENTINA 3
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 3 The Best Outdoor Adventures. . . . . .6
Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 4 The Best Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
2 The Most Charming Small Towns. . .5 5 The Best Dining Experiences . . . . . . .9
2 ARGENTINA IN DEPTH 10
1 Argentina Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 4 Argentina Ways & Manners. . . . . . . .20
2 Looking Back at Argentina . . . . . . . .10 5 Argentina in Popular Culture. . . . . .22
3 The Lay of the Land. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 6 Eating & Drinking in Argentina . . . .24
3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO ARGENTINA 26
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 7 Health & Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . .27 8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .38
3 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 9 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . .41
4 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 10 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
5 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 11 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .46
6 Travel Insurance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 12 Active Vacation Planner . . . . . . . . . . .48
4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES IN ARGENTINA 51
1 Buenos Aires in 5 Days . . . . . . . . . . . .51 4 Mendoza: Malbec & Mountains . . .59
2 Northern Patagonia: Lakes & 5 Patagonia Wildlife: PenInsula
Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Valdés & Los Glaciares
3 Hiking Southern Argentine National Park. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
Patagonia in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 6 Northwest Argentina: The Real
South America. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
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iv
5 BUENOS AIRES 65
1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 4 What to See & Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Fast Facts: Buenos Aires . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 5 Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
2 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 6 Buenos Aires After Dark . . . . . . . . . 144
3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Tango Lowdown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
6 THE PAMPAS, THE COAST & OTHER SIDE TRIPS
FROM BUENOS AIRES 153
1 Mar del Plata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 6 Montevideo, Uruguay. . . . . . . . . . . 172
2 Miramar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Fast Facts: Montevideo. . . . . . . . . . . . .176
3 La Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 7 San Antonio de Areco & Pampas
A 4 Tigre & the Delta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Estancias. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
N
TI 5 Colonia del Sacramento,
N
E Uruguay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
G
R
A
7 IGUAZÚ FALLS & THE NORTHEAST 189
1 Iguazú Falls & Puerto Iguazú. . . . . 189 Border Crossing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203
S Behind the Falls & into Esteros del Ibera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
T
N the Jungle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194
E
T
N 2 The Brazilian Side:
O
C Foz do Iguaçu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
8 SALTA & THE NORTHWEST 207
1 Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 3 Humahuaca, Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Fast Facts: Salta. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208 Pachamama Parties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230
The Train to the Clouds. . . . . . . . . . . . .210 4 Tafi del Valle, Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . 230
2 A Driving Tour of the The Fighting Spirit of Quilmes. . . . . .234
Calchaquíes Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 5 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Colomé—Cactus & Vineyards. . . . . .227
9 CÓRDOBA & THE CENTRAL SIERRAS 238
1 Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 3 La Falda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256
Fast Facts: Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241 4 La Cumbre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Touring the Jesuit Estancias. . . . . . . .248 5 Alta Gracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
2 Villa Carlos Paz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Parque Nacional Quebrada del
Condorito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
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10 MENDOZA, THE WINE COUNTRY & THE
CENTRAL ANDES 262
1 Mendoza. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 3 San Rafael. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
Safety in Mendoza: Not What It 4 The Alta Montaña Driving
Used to Be . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Fast Facts: Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 Roadside Shrines: Folk Saints of
The Real Scoop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 Argentina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297
2 Touring the Wineries. . . . . . . . . . . . 276 A Shared Backbone: Crossing
into Chile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
Taking Wine Home. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
Hitting the Slopes in Las Leñas. . . . .300
When to Visit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .289
The Story of Mendoza’s Wine. . . . . . .292
A
1 1 THE ARGENTINE LAKE DISTRICT 303 R
G
E
N
1 San Carlos de Bariloche . . . . . . . . . 304 Driving to Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330 T
IN
Traveling by Boat to Chile . . . . . . . . . .306 4 Driving Bariloche to San Martín. . . 333 A
Fast Facts: Bariloche. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309 5 San Martín de los Andes . . . . . . . . 335
What’s with All the Chocolate?. . . . .310 Fast Facts: San Martín
Nah-Well What? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .311 de los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .336 CO
2 South of Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Lahuen Co: Hot Springs Deep NT
in the Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338 EN
Ruta 40: The Road South. . . . . . . . . . .326 T
6 Junín de los Andes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 S
3 Villa La Angostura. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327
Shopping in “La Villa”: Worth the
Drive Around the Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . .328
1 2 PENÍNSULA VALDÉS & SOUTHERN PATAGONIA 347
1 Puerto Madryn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 7 Parque Nacional los Glaciares &
Fast Facts: Puerto Madryn. . . . . . . . . .353 Perito Moreno Glacier . . . . . . . . . . 378
2 Península Valdés . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 How to See the Glacier. . . . . . . . . . . . .381
3 Puerto Pirámides. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Deep in the Heart of Patagonia:
Hostería Helsingfors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382
4 Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
8 El Chaltén & the FitzRoy Area. . . . 383
5 Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364
Patagonia’s Famous Peaks. . . . . . . . .387
High Tea in Gaiman. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .365
9 Torres del Paine National Park,
6 El Calafate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366
Chile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390
Fast Facts: El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366
El Calafate with a Half-Day to Kill. . .370
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vi
13 TIERRA DEL FUEGO & ANTARCTICA 399
1 Ushuaia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 Monster Trout on the Río Grande . . .412
Cruising from Punta Arenas to 2 Puerto Williams, Chile . . . . . . . . . . . 413
Ushuaia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400 3 Antarctica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415
Fast Facts: Ushuaia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .403
APPENDIX A: ARGENTINA FAST
FACTS & WEBSITES 423
1 Fast Facts: Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 2 Websites. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
APPENDIX B: SURVIVAL SPANISH 426
A
N
NTI INDEX 429
E
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L I S T O F M A P S
Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 The Iguazú Falls Region . . . . . . . . . .191
Buenos Aires in 5 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Northwestern Argentina . . . . . . . . .211
Northern Patagonia Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
Lakes & Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .239
Hiking Southern Patagonia
Córdoba Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253
in 1 Week . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263
Mendoza: Malbec & Mountains . . . 61
Mendoza Province. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277
Península Valdés & Los Glaciares . . . 63
Argentina’s Lake District . . . . . . . . .305
Where to Stay in Buenos Aires . . . . 74
San Carlos de Bariloche . . . . . . . . . .307
Where to Stay & Dine in Palermo . . . 88
Seven Lakes Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . .334
Where to Dine in Buenos Aires . . . . 94
Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349
Buenos Aires Sightseeing . . . . . . . .120
Península Valdés/Puerto Madryn . . .351
Buenos Aires Shopping &
Southern Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . . . .369
Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
Los Glaciares National Park . . . . . .379
Palermo Shopping & Nightlife . . .138
Ushuaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401
Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
Antarctica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .417
Montevideo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173
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ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Michael Luongo has written on Argentina for the New York Times, National Geographic Trav-
eler, Bloomberg News, Out Traveler, and many other publications. H e is also the author of
Frommer’s Buenos Aires. His debut novel, The Voyeur, was published by Alyson Books in 2007,
and he has several other travel books. He has visited more than 80 countries and all sev en
continents, but few places have stolen his heart like Argentina. Highlights of his travels there
include riding Juan Perón’s coffin through the streets of Buenos Aires during his 2006 reburial
and wearing Evita’s perfume to a dinner par ty. Visit him at www .michaelluongo.com and
www.misterbuenosaires.com.
Charlie O’Malley is an Irishman who lives and works in Mendoza, Argentina. He has worked
on several Frommer’s guidebooks for countries all over South America and Central America.
He edits his own magazine in Argentina called Wine Republic.
Christie Pashby is the author of Frommer´s Banff & Jasper National Parks and co-author of
Frommer’s Chile and Frommer’s Best Hikes in British Columbia. Since falling for an Argentine
mountain guide while whitewater kayaking in Costa Rica, Christie has divided her time betw een
the Canadian Rockies and Bariloche, Argentina. A fr eelance journalist and translator , she also
somehow finds the time to r un a small guiding business with her husband and cram in two ski
seasons a year. Her websites include www.patagoniatravelco.com and www.patagonialiving.com.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Michael Luongo
Thanks to my editor, Jamie Ehrlich, whom I have enjoyed working with again for this book.
Thank you, Kathleen Warnock, for introducing me long ago to the Frommer’s bunch, and to
Pauline and Arthur Frommer for their advice and guidance over the years, as well as so many
others at the Hoboken office. Thanks to Ines Segarra of the Argentina Tourism Office in New
York, as well as Alejandro Bertolo and the rest at the Consulate General of Argentina in New
York, and Eduardo Piva of the Argentina Tourism Office in Miami, Carlos Enrique Mayer in
Buenos Aires, and to their staff, for answering all of my questions over the years. Thanks to
Gabriel Miremont of the Museo Evita for all of his knowledge over the years, to Sandra Borello
and her staff at Borello Travel for all their advice, and to Luis and Lawrence who are like two
big brothers, without whom I could never do anything in Buenos Aires.
Charlie O’Malley
A big thanks to Rosa Maria Aguilera and Marina Deponti for their thorough assistance. Also
to Sergio Lucca for his consummate driving skills on the roads of Cordoba. Thank you also to
my collaborators, Christie and Mike, and my editor, Jamie Ehrlich. Last but not least, to my
wife, Ana Laura, for her patience, understanding, and astounding proofreading skills.
Christie Pashby
I would like to thank I sobel Falk from Destino Argentina, Gabriela in Chacras, Ceci and
Charlie in Mendoza, Marina in El Chaltén, Pascale in El Calafate, Paula and Miky in Ushuaia,
and Jamie Ehrlich and the crew at Frommer’s. Also, gracias to C ristian for keeping the car
running and to Max, for turning each day into an adv enture. Finally, eternal thanks to my
parents in Toronto for putting a map of the world on my childhood bedroom wall.
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