spine=.576" E xperience the best a place has to offer on the cruise that’s right for you. Frommer’s. Your trip begins with us. A ● Exact prices, including brochure rates, with tips on how to L find deep discounts, so you can plan the perfect trip no matter A what your budget. S K ● Extensive descriptions of all the major ships sailing in Alaska, A with information on everything from cabins and ship facilities to shore excursions and recreational activities. C ● Comprehensive ship ratings that grade the essential elements R of a cruise experience (dining, activities, children’s programs, U public areas, cleanliness, and overall enjoyment) from “poor” I S to “outstanding.” E S ● Complete coverage of the Inside Passage and Gulf of Alaska, A L A S K A with off-the-beaten-path experiences and new takes on top & attractions. P ● Bonus wwiillddlliiffee gguuiiddee in the appendix highlights the animals O C R U I S E S you’re most likely to see—from whales to bald eagles to bears. R T S & PORTS OF CALL Front cover photo ©Ken Graham/AccentAlaska.com Inset photo ©Altrendo Nature Photo/Getty Images O 20 09 F US $18.99/ CAN $20.99/ UK £12.99 C ISBN 978-0-470-37185-5 A L L 2009 01_371855-ffirs.qxp 12/3/08 8:45 AM Page i Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call 2009 by Fran Wenograd Golden & Jerry Brown Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use.Very portable,very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed,accurate,and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_371855-ffirs.qxp 12/3/08 8:45 AM Page ii Published by: Wiley Publishing,Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authori- zation through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN: 978-0-470-37185-5 Editor: Melissa Klurman Production Editor: Lindsay Conner Cartographer: Andrew Dolan Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Prince William Sound: Cruise ship passes by Bryn Mawr Glacier in College Fjord Back cover photo: Homer, Alaska: Group Portrait of three bald eagles For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 02_371855-ftoc.qxp 12/3/08 8:44 AM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Alaska Cruising in 2009 1 1 The Best of Alaska Cruising 8 1 The Best of Alaska’s Ships . . . . . . . . .9 3 The Best Shore Excursions . . . . . . . .13 2 The Best Ports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 2 Choosing Your Ideal Cruise 15 1 The Alaska Cruise Season . . . . . . . . .15 Ship Size Comparisons . . . . . . . . . . .21 2 The Inside Passage or the Gulf 4 Cruisetours:The Best of Alaska? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 of Land & Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Shore Excursions: The What, 5 Quiz Time:Questions to Ask When & Why . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 When Choosing Your Cruise . . . . . . .25 3 Big Ship or Small Ship? . . . . . . . . . .18 3 Booking Your Cruise & Getting the Best Price 31 1 Booking a Cruise:The Short 7 Choosing Your Cabin . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Explanation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Model Cabin Layouts . . . . . . . . . . . .41 2 Booking through a Travel Agent . . . .32 Reading a Ship’s Deck Plan . . . . . . .42 Watch Out for Scams . . . . . . . . . . . .33 8 Choosing Your Dining Options . . . . .44 3 Cruising on the Internet . . . . . . . . . .35 9 Deposits & Cancellation Policies . . . .46 4 Cruise Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 10 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 5 Money-Saving Strategies . . . . . . . . .37 Fast Facts: Alaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 6 Airfares & Pre-/Post-Cruise Hotel Offerings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 4 The Cruise Experience 50 1 Packing for Your Cruise . . . . . . . . . . .50 Safety at Sea in the New World 2 Money Matters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 (Dis)Order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 The Cost of Common Cruise 5 Keeping in Touch with Incidentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 the Outside World . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 3 Your Very Important Papers . . . . . . . .54 6 Visiting the Ports of Call . . . . . . . . . .58 4 Getting to the Ship & Checking In . . .55 7 Tipping,Packing & Other End-of-Cruise Concerns . . . . . . . . . .61 02_371855-ftoc.qxp 12/3/08 8:44 AM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 The Cruise Lines,Part 1:The Big Ships 64 1 Some Components of Our 5 Norwegian Cruise Line . . . . . . . . . . .89 Cruise-Line Reviews . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 6 Princess Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Weddings at Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68 7 Regent Seven Seas Cruises . . . . . . .109 2 Carnival Cruise Lines . . . . . . . . . . . .69 8 Royal Caribbean International . . . . .113 3 Celebrity Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 9 Silversea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 4 Holland America Line . . . . . . . . . . . .80 6 The Cruise Lines,Part 2:The Small Ships 123 A Note on Ship Ratings . . . . . . . . .124 3 Lindblad Expeditions . . . . . . . . . . .140 1 American Safari Cruises . . . . . . . . .125 4 Alaska Marine Highway System . . .143 2 Cruise West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 7 The Ports of Embarkation 148 1 Anchorage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 3 Vancouver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 The Iditarod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .153 4 Seattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169 Shopping Smart for Native Art . . . .156 5 Juneau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177 2 Seward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 6 Whittier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 8 Ports & Wilderness Areas along the Inside Passage 184 1 Victoria,British Columbia . . . . . . . .184 9 Sitka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 2 Canada’s Inside Passage . . . . . . . . .188 10 Juneau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 3 Prince Rupert,British Columbia . . .189 11 Icy Strait Point,Icy Strait & 4 Ketchikan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193 Hoonah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212 5 Misty Fjords National Monument . . .198 12 Glacier Bay National Park Preserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214 6 Admiralty Island National 13 Haines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 7 Tracy Arm & Endicott Arm . . . . . . . .199 14 Skagway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220 8 Baranof Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 9 Ports & Wilderness Areas along the Gulf Route 226 1 Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226 4 Prince William Sound . . . . . . . . . . .231 2 Valdez . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229 5 College Fjord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 3 Hubbard Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .231 6 Seward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 02_371855-ftoc.qxp 12/3/08 8:44 AM Page v CONTENTS v 10 Cruisetour Destinations 234 1 Denali National Park & Preserve . . .234 3 Prudhoe Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238 A Mountain by Any Other Name...235 4 Nome & Kotzebue . . . . . . . . . . . . .239 First to the Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 5 The Kenai Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . .240 2 Fairbanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 6 The Yukon Territory . . . . . . . . . . . . .240 Denali Changes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238 7 The Canadian Rockies . . . . . . . . . .241 Appendix A:Alaska in Depth 243 by Charles Wohlforth 1 Natural History:Rough 3 An Introduction to Southeast Drafts & Erasures . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 Alaska’s Native Cultures . . . . . . . . .253 2 A Short Gold-Rush History . . . . . . .251 Appendix B:Alaska on the Wild Side 257 by Charles Wohlforth 1 Whale-Watching 101 . . . . . . . . . . .257 2 Alaskan Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 Index 265 General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .265 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .275 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .274 02_371855-ftoc.qxp 12/3/08 8:44 AM Page vi List of Maps Alaska 10 Sitka 203 Anchorage 149 Downtown Juneau 209 Seward 159 Glacier Bay National Park 215 Downtown Vancouver 163 Haines 219 Seattle 171 Skagway 223 Whittier 181 Petersburg 227 Victoria, British Columbia 185 The Kenai Peninsula & Prince William Sound 232 Prince Rupert, British Columbia 190 Ketchikan 195 03_371855-flast.qxp 12/3/08 8:45 AM Page vii About the Authors Fran Wenograd Goldenis travel editor for GateHouse Media New England and keeps readers up to date on the “Get Away with Fran” blog at www.wickedlocal.com/getaway. Her work appears in numerous newspapers, magazines, and websites. She lives in Boston and is the proud parent of Erin and Eli. Jerry Brown was born in Edinburgh, Scotland, and worked as a reporter for Scottish newspapers before joining the news department of the London Daily Mail. Later, for 31 years, he was the West Coast Bureau Chief of a leading travel trade newspaper. He and Margaret, his wife and best editor, have two grown sons, a granddaughter, Victoria Rose, and two grandsons, Mason Patrick and Maddox Matthew. An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the expe- riences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wal- lets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Alaska Alaska For Dummies Pauline Frommer’s Alaska Frommer’s Cruises & Ports of Call Frommer’s Seattle Frommer’s Canada Frommer’s British Columbia & the Canadian Rockies Vancouver & Victoria For Dummies 03_371855-flast.qxp 12/3/08 8:45 AM Page viii The following abbreviationsare used forcredit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www. frommers.comfor additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information avail- able. At Frommers.com, you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bar- gains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. 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