Frenchie: New Bistro Cooking

145 Pages·2014·36.165 MB·English

by  Greg Marchand, Djamel Dine Zitout

52321txt_rev.indd 1 11/6/13 6:26 AM
52321txt.indd 2 10/25/13 6:19 AM
New Bistro Cooking
Principal photography by Djamel Dine Ztiotu

New York
52321txt_rev.indd 3 11/6/13 6:26 AM
Copyright © 2012 by Éditions Alternatives
Translation, introduction, and afterword copyright © 2014 by Artisan, a division of
Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
Photographs on pages 2, 6, 7 (bottom), 8 (bottom), 18 (upper left and lower left), 19, 136,
and 138 (lower right) by Virginie Garnier
All other photographs by Djamel Dine Zitout
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced—mechanically, electronically,
or by any other means, including photocopying—without written permission of the publisher.
Published by Artisan
A division of Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014-4381
artisanbooks.com
Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son, Limited
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Marchand, Greg.
[Cuisine du Frenchie at Home. English]
Frenchie / Greg Marchand ; photographs by Djamel Dine Zitout. — First American edition.
pages cm
Translation of: La Cuisine du Frenchie at Home.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-57965-534-1
1. Cooking, French. 2. Restaurant Frenchie (Paris, France) I. Title.
TX719.M3128 2014
641.5944—dc23
2013029979
Published by arrangement with Éditions Alternatives, which originally published this book
in France under the title La Cuisine du Frenchie at Home.
Translation by Camille Labro
Printed in China
First American edition, March 2014
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
52321txt.indd 4 10/25/13 6:19 AM
hy co miTdm alrond Le, Tniyl
52321txt_rev.indd 5 11/6/13 6:26 AM
noC tsnte
cntuoitirdon 31
rsping 32
sumrem 74
afll 77
wtrien 071
aftrerwod 531
uosrsec 731
tsdgeneclmkaown 931
iexdn 141
52321txt_rev.indd 11 11/6/13 6:26 AM
Introduction
31
52321txt_rev.indd 12 11/6/13 6:26 AM
nI tr cudo noti
ae sWtk rdJamesrlt n Iwoeur ehO(cid:146)eaivira tFniftn neoe
dlOtSre eti nn ,odnLo ehnkcinae dm emF(cid:147)rhc(cid:148) neei
becuas e Iwa st ehno ylFr hcne npresoi nt ehktn. ehic
T ehnkcina emen swt kcurmbee sm( fot ehstaf fer nev
enevealr e, dynamr s)eao w d thnitc(cid:146)a lhnt eamato em
past sr yhesm ttauarai tnaP nrii sc saleF dlrhcn.eei
At Fifteen, every year d w(cid:146)ehire (cid:31)fteen kids from disadvantaged
bacgkrounds and train them in the kitchen. I identi(cid:31)ed with these oyung
apprentices, having had my own share of troubled times. d I(cid:146)started to
cook when I was (cid:31)fteen, in the orphanage where I grew u, in Npantes.
voluntteo hetar hmpaopy wrn ae s I weeaeoknonfd n dwcas, hTs ef hf e
orcphoautrnchae rge attof hzyaie nfredr. bsorm s eak a me gave it cook: to
Th e(cid:31)rs tdis h Ieve rmad ewa s escalop enormande ,vea lwit hmushrooms
geneirt parctowejAparby oeed xaeoals ctnaobitud lrhmht le . y toey udg, h
itn hoe thekr idwas es noupgto h ersuadmete o e nroicll n ookinsg chool.
o thiTs , dpayleasing people, seeing the smiles on their faces when they
tae tkheir (cid:31)rst bite of a dish I have made, (cid:31)lls me with pleasure.
skl lu a ,hari longsposrix tniget e,n atBritt y annisch oolco oknigenetr ed I
r,niga nd aMetailc lapa cth on ymje anejtac(cid:151)k Ithou ght I eldook soc! ool
Bu t theetacher s (cid:146)tiddn agre.e Iaw squick lyidspacth ed ot thebarb erand
blac k ofp a riacas bsoln hui a ecdsc o taoscf,k mk ep osup,leab u yott hen
.ha rilong the of ayf awe vtlhoee ws rnMwohhfota y cei raktds.rih
Introduction
31
52321txt.indd 13 10/25/13 6:20 AM
nothing was studie s ymthrou ghgo t ITha tthe n.bac klif e ym inous otr t tolo t aha d I
shor to f amirac l,ebu t Idi dgradua ,tehvain glearne dth ebasic so freFnc hcuisin, e
hospitbtuah seliinetss . oy fout san din sth easn danriultereas a,ns tdheito analurt ahn t
Wit hgoo dluck , Isoo nlande d ajo b inLondo nwit hDvai dNicholl sa tth eMandarin
brilgaadre g e apoa frxea(cid:31)pre ows rrstik eitn ngycm KewaOni rgsih ientIn ttsbrai ldg .e
and theb norc wanpoa osfkso in rg symio ntha tn swroetaehlvaii zr eg hnwIdiat r yhds .
th e:rei twa sth e(cid:31)rs ttim e in ymlif etha t Ifel tpar to fsomething(cid:151) acla n, apos s,ea
,famila yllcentere do ncookin g. Iwa sha pyp toge t upan dg o toowrk ,an d Ilearned
somethin gn eweevr y .dyaTha twa s ymbes tcookin gschoo l .eevrAn d Ilevo dthe
energ yo fLondo n,th ecurrie sserev do nBric kLan ean dth ef ullEnglis hbreakfas tat
tgh reeas psyowo onhood woyfe gu s u aln reword ae ,ffn iteagd hor r fitnking.
Mandttarhmyre asienn lsgf tfo oet rrrreeesnI d otvtafchtaoe lWur iorohsanee, nn d t
Oriental in Hong Kong, where I worekd at Jean-Georges onVgerics hte(cid:146)nonVg. The
menu was a perfect fusion orf Fench and Asian cooking, foie gras and mang, oduck
and tamarind, and all kinds of crazy things I had never seen before. I had a blast in
HonKog ngb, uhI t atrd o eturtLn o ondotbn o pe arot tf hre eopenintg eatm hee rWe.
had a brand-new kitchen with a wok, a tandoori oven, and a wood-(cid:31)red oven. It was
awewascI os om: oekindnieg w shaedns id scoverininneg w gredienteBveus . rt dayy
I did(cid:146)nt get on very well with the new head che. fOne day he verbally abused me so
badly that I pacekd up my knives, handed him my apron, and left.
Andaoto flus(cid:30)iew f a I so sun, thyee aflorLer nmweife onhang atdod eohf t an err Ys
awotbnorehd en ke a d aicn h chiringuito (b meaa, bckafh irn)rg e(cid:31)ssh h pllaa na cha ,
octopus galllea gaa tor, tisllaoaarltl nsd ao, f tpaCs oso. bkainsrg fteahefne ilod n t ot
goobd, nuI et edemd ocroa he f allengTe. hatet sct amtin e hpe ersooAn f rthuPor tts
Dawson, previously a sous chef at The River CafØ in London, who was opening a
inspwairtehs ed rde id we food the and ches, ofubs heriMecs asartbmI e eian lulraa. nt
Tby hCe asf: imØplre egionaIl taliacn uisinme awde itgrh eaft resinh gredientsIw. at s
Introduction Introduction
41 51
52321txt.indd 14 10/25/13 6:20 AM
my (cid:31)rst real exposure to Italian cooking. e Weven had a wood-burning oven and
turned out great pizza. What a yea!r
The nArt hurwa soffere d agoo dpositi on inLond on,whe re Ifoellw od him.Ts hat(cid:146)
law FnIhiad e e tfndeetwevne htn,eIu arbel dleiy fcsIahce t mh.aedef(cid:146)(cid:31)ceul no totu gh
r un arestauran twi th aeta m ofdedicaet dchefs(cid:151)imag inehva ing aeta m ofkids
strug glinwgi tth hseimp liede ohavf aoew rionevtkrg B! yeu ddiy veadrwt eaw,yllnd
owrl, dt hearou ndou tpsrporfcee haedsfsi o nwsno,a la rethe m ofmos ttha tse e Iwhe n
i tem ask mepro u.d Ials olearne drespec tf oringredient s fsr (cid:147)olmeJsa (cid:146)smi eismo(cid:148) re
stthae f waif th(cid:151)mana a gllea nda(cid:30)oba utsines s ae epk ot hwolearne d Ia ndapproac h,
beoncek.do rkYN ewa nd ,readywa(cid:146) stn IBu t .ydao neplac ewo n ymopen ing ofthough t
OnacI re ortrCiI k irv, eiNtiYen eod w fud ara eyt w et staurantas, nwd heMn ichael
Antehnwae , tlphy poonyincteGhad arevet oaf rfmnj, eumrTI pjcfaoey e, t ba d rmee d
the chance to work there. My girlfriend a(nd soon-to-be , wi)feMarie, and I found a
niclie ttale partmeGnin rt eenpoinPotla in, seh ighborhoBion rd ooklyWn. cheI an me
out of the , subwayI felt as if I were in aWr, sawwith everybody speaking Polish and
delis selling Polish charcuterie and other specialties. I immersed myself in New
os rrki(cid:146)cYh melting-pot culture. Japan, Korea, It, aalnd yMexic, oto name a , fweewre
all less than a forty-minute subway ride , awayand it was a great inspiration to have
products from all over the world so readily available.
dtirfowu l ydfreer sIetn ttaauhMrnr fdeoaafrenroi tme li,s d ,-ytsafs tott ylme ar sO n
Chines jeoints f,ro nmewl oypene pdlace etosstablishe odlde rrestareuvarlinag nts .T
farthe ra(cid:31)el d, ewa teou r ywathrou ghChic a,goSa nraFncisc oan dth eNap a, allyeV
Florida ,an dupsta teorNk e.wAY llthes exeperience s gevam emor ean dmor eideas
abou twha t ymwo nplac ecoul db e .elikevErywher e Iewnt , Itoo knote s in ymlittle
Moleskin eboo kabou twha t Ifoun dgrea t ineac hplac ,efro mmen uholder s tothe
menuasrn . ododmin oisn rggtah tenh iezao fa stiew o llncao usro sf,efoo d, ltoightin g
M ytim ei nSpai nwa sa nadvantag ei nth eGraeavmr enrkci ytcThen .Althoug hy m
Introduction
51
52321txt.indd 15 10/25/13 6:20 AM