France - It's always the right time to be in Corsica

25 Pages·2004·3.724 MB·English

IT’S ALWAYS
THE RIGHT TIME
CORSICA.
TO BE IN
T
able of contents
THE REGION
OF BASTIA Nature p. 4 - 7
The seaside p. 8 - 9
The mountains p. 10 - 11
Heritage p. 12 - 13
BALAGNE The Region of Bastia p. 14 - 17
CENTRAL CORSICA Cap Corse - Nebbio - Saint Florent
East Coast p. 18 - 21
Costa Serena - Costa Verde - Castagniccia
South Corsica p. 22 - 25
Bonifacio - Porto Vecchio - Lecci
EAST COAST Sainte Lucie de Porto-Vecchio - Alta Rocca - Solenzara
WEST CORSICA The Grand Valinco p. 26 - 29
Propriano - Taravo - region of Sartene
The Region of Ajaccio p. 30 - 33
THE REGION Porticcio - South shore - Bastellica - Bocognano
OF AJACCIO
West Corsica p. 34 - 37
Porto - Piana - Cargèse - region of Vico
THE GRAND
VALINCO Balagne p. 38 - 41
Calvi - Ile Rousse - Galeria - Ostriconi
Central Corsica p. 42 - 45
SOUTH CORSICA Corte - Venacais - Niolo - Bozio - Asco
Photo credits p. 46
Tourist Offices p. 47
C
orsica is nothing like
the image we have
of a Mediterranean
island. In fact, no other
Mediterranean island has
Corsica’s lushness. With
the green of the chestnut the Lavezzi Isles where 68
trees of Castagniccia, the species of fish have been
green of the rustling recorded, the Finocchiarola
bushes along the paths and Scandola Isles that are
of the maquis(scrubland), France’s leading land and
the verdant mountain sea reserve, and the
pastures that are at their Biguglia Pond where 127
most beautiful during species of aquatic birds
the summer, the green nest. In the spring every-
of the vast forests of thing is in bloom and
indigenous pine trees the maquis is at its most
that are hundreds of years fragrant, and autumn is
old and that stand out also a delight when the
C
ome and enjoy the fragrance
of the herb-scented Maquis
against the Aïtone sky, chestnut harvest is celebrat-
the emerald patches of ed in the villages perched
the mountain lakes, the on the tops, making Corsica
silvery green Nebbio olive a delight to explore what-
groves, the transparency everthe season.
of the waterfalls and pools
of Restonica, and the green
lines of the Patrimonio
vineyard in the spring.
With more than 2000 plant
species, Corsica will dazzle
you with colour. What is
more, the Regional Nature
Park of Corsica covers
more than two thirds of
the island. Five nature
reserves protect some
unique flora and fauna
with the Cerbicale Isles
that provide a sanctuary
for crested cormorants,
4 5
W
alking on Corsica
is the best way to
explore the true
Corsica. Wonder at the
fortified granite houses
and shepherds’ dry-stone
shelters, bathe in the pure of the old Genoese bridge.
water pools that have Accessible to all, country
formed in the rocks from tracks will take you to
waterfalls, and enjoy the the Alta-Rocca, close to the
magnificent landscapes in fabulous Bavella peaks. In
the forests where you will the Bozio area your walk
perhaps come across one will take you to explore
of the island’s semi-wild ancient Roman chapels
pigs or catch a glimpse of decorated with frescos.
the bearded vulture or the The Niolo area is a paradise
moufflon. for mountain climbers and
Y
ou can come on foot, by mountain bike
or on horseback, but don’t delay
Everywhere you go the offers easy looped walks
many hiking trails take that will take you deep
you right to the heart of into the breathtaking pine
the real Corsica. The most forests. If you prefer
well known long-distance mountain biking, you will
trail is the GR 20 (long- also not be disappointed.
distance hiking route) that Sporting circuits and loops
takes you across the upper that are perfect for family
mountains, from Calenzana outings, with hundreds of
(in the Calvi region) to forest paths, walking routes
Conca (in the Porto- and short routes are open
Vecchio region). This diffi- all year. Lastly if you like
cult path is one of the horse riding, you will enjoy
most beautiful in the world. Corsica. Almost 2000 km
For easier routes, take the of tracks are open to
“Mare e Monti Nord” riders and will take you
between Cargèse and to areas and villages
Calenzala, and the “Mare that cannot be reached
e Monti Sud”, from by road. So, saddle up!
Porticcio to Propriano.
Lastly, three long-distance
routes link the two coasts,
one of which, the “Mare
a Mare Sud”, is passable
all year round. All along
the route you will find a
shepherd or villager who
will show you a spring
where you can stop to
drink, and even the route
6 7
C
rystal clear waters,
vast beaches of
powder sand, small
isolated coves and wild
cliffs populated with sea
eagles: Corsica offers a
range of marine land-
scapes that are unique
to the Mediterranean.
With over one thousand
kilometres of coastline,
the island is a succession
of fabulous places to swim,
fish, dive or simply walk.
To the northwest of the
island, the Agriates beaches
that you can reach through
the maquisare some of the
wildest beaches on the is-
land. Further to the south,
around the Rousse Isle,
the Balagne beaches have
vibrantly coloured rocks
C that rise out of turquoise
ome to the beach!
- Yes, but which one?
waters. In the Golfe de
Porto, there are large and
small beaches for you to
enjoy in a protected natu-
ral setting, and the magni-
ficent landscapes of the
Calanches will amaze you.
Then between Bonifacio
and Porto-Vecchio, fabu-
lous beaches stretch over Even in October swimming in the sea is still
kilometres, punctuated common where the water can be up to 20°!
here and there by coves. Corsica’s charm continues under water, with anemones,
Further to the north and gorgonians and coral that light up the seabed with an array
up to Solenzara, the Côte of colours. Corsica is a dream place to learn to dive. Fishes abound
des Nacres (mother-of- everywhere you look with scorpion fish, red mullet, sea bass, gilt-head
pearl coast) has sandy bream all of which will delight fishing enthusiasts. Not to forget the sea
coves that are bathed in urchins that will form part of memorable meals during the winter until the
emerald green waters. start of spring. Sea kayaking, jet-skiing, water skiing, harpoon fishing, fun-boarding
Even at the height of and even surfing – you will have plenty of opportunity to practise your favourite sport in
summer it is not difficult an exceptional setting. As sailing enthusiasts will tell you, nothing beats a tour round Corsica by
to find a quiet little cove boat for an unforgettable cruise. That goes for you too; as soon as you discover the shores of Corsica,
where you will feel like you will only want to do one thing and that is weigh anchor.
Robinson Crusoe. You are
sure to be surprised by the
temperature of the waters.
8 9
I
f you like mountains,
you will love Corsica.
It is the most moun-
tainous island in the
Mediterranean with more
than 100 peaks over 2000 water is never far away.
metres high. Everywhere With its thermal springs,
you look you will see spectacular waterfalls,
magnificent landscapes in natural pools, rivers full
a protected setting. The of fish, mountain lakes, If your preferred element
mountains make up the Corsica is a veritable water is air, why not take the
heart of Corsica and pro- tower where you will enjoy opportunity to explore
vide the setting for island taking time to recharge Corsica by paraglider. From
traditions and even the very your batteries. For lovers of Cap Corse to Nebbio, via
identity of the islanders sport, canyoning is prac- Castagniccia, Niolo and
themselves. As you walk tised from mid-April to Balagne, it is sure to take
about, you will discover November, with canoeing your breath away.
that Corsican hospitality and kayaking and rafting Another way to explore
is far from a myth. In this available from February the heights is by climbing.
abundance of nature, to the end of May. Beginners must be encour-
agedto join in. Professional
instructors are on hand to
help you explore the most
beautiful areas and will
enjoy sharing their passion
E for the island with you.
xplore the mountains in the morning
and head to the beach in the afternoon
Why not come and enjoy a
snow weekend in Corsica?
Far from the crowded
slopes of the Alps, you will
discover the exhilaration
of being out in the heart
of nature. Families will
enjoy cross country skiing
on the Cuscione Plateau
and alpine skiing and surf
skiing at Ghisoni, Bastelica
and Vergio, with superb
snow-shoe walks on the
peaks and the veritable
sporting adventure of the
Haute Route à Ski (a long
ski route): all snow activi-
ties can be practised until
April. With landscapes
that will take your breath
away, just one hour away
by car spring is already
emerging on the coast.
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C
orsica’s uniqueness –
quite apart from
the fact that it is an
island that is unique to the
Mediterranean – also stems
from its heritage. Every-
where you go, you will see
a chapel, a bridge, a tower,
or something of interest
to explore.
From pre-history you can
see the remains of watch- that feed on acorns and
towers from the mysterious chestnuts, figatelli, liver
civilization known as the sausages and coppa à
“civilization toréenne” as base d’échine, Italian char-
well as hundreds of menhir cuteriebased on pork ribs.
statues, including the fa- Chestnut pulenta (with a
mous Filitosa statues with flour base) will accompany
their enigmatic sculptured your wild-boar stew and
faces. This was followed by as regards cheese, enjoy
the Greek and Roman pe- tasting brocciu, a locally
riods. A fantastic collection produced goat and sheep’s
of artefacts is on display in cheese: all authentic and
the Museum of Aléria. generous cooking. By the
However, these ancient sea, you can enjoy crawfish,
colonists left other, far more fish, and aziminu a
succulent memories of their Corsican fish-based soup.
I
8 AOCs (guarantee
of origin) compete to
n Corsica, even the old stones
produce wine that
is both aromatic
have a soul
and full of flavour.
Do not hesitate to
call in to see the
time on Corsica, in the wine cellars. The winegro-
form of vineyard cultiva- wers themselves will be
tion and oyster farming. delighted to let you taste
In the Middle Ages, a their products. “A saluta”
large number of Roman – “Cheers”!
chapels and churches with Corsica is also an island
simple lines were built in where people know how
the villages of Castagniccia, to party. Each village, and
Nebbio and Balagne. The there are more than 300,
17th and 18th centuries saw celebrates its patron saint
the emergence of churches each year. During such
built in the Baroque style celebrations the profane
and the richness of their meets the religious with
interior decoration will fairs, music, singing, danc-
amaze you. Corsica’s tur- ing and cinema festivals,
bulent history can be seen and sporting events all
through the fortification year round. And at night,
and citadels of its towns when the “paghjelles”
and its Genoese watch- begin – traditional songs
towers dotted along the sung by three people, it is
coastline. With a rich the Corsican soul, proud
heritage of monuments, and passionate that you
Corsica is also a wealth of will hear sing out.
culture, craft and living
traditions among which
gastronomy plays a signifi-
cant part. With prisuttu,
delicious finely-cut ham
made from semi-wild pigs
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T
he Region of Bastia
Cap Corse - Nebbio - Saint Florent
T
ouring around the “côte toscane”, Bastia has all the charm of old Mediterranean
towns with its narrow streets flanked by tall buildings whose understated
elegance is enhanced by painted shutters.
Founded in 1378 by the Genoese that turned it into the island’s capital, its name
comes from the ‘bastille’ or fortress that dominates the town. It is a lively place and
one where you will enjoy strolling about at will; Place Saint Nicolas and the Place
du Marché are both favourites with the local townsfolk and are always full of
vibrancy and colour. From here you can tour round the old port by walking
down rue Napoleon, looking at the shops and beautiful boutiques as you go.
You must stop off and visit the Mattei buildings, creators of the famous Cap Corse
aperitif. Other sights to see, this time of a more spiritual nature, are to be found
in the churches that sprang up all over the town during the 17th and 18th centuries.
The church of Saint-Jean-Baptiste, Corsica’s largest church, and the
churches of Sainte-Marie and the Chappelle Sainte Croix will not
fail to amaze you with their ornate Baroque interiors.
If you are tempted to go for a swim, there are beaches not far
from the entrance to the town. Pebble beaches to the north,
sandy beaches to the south with the superb Mariana beach that
borders the ornithological reserve of the Pond of Biguglia. Make
the most of a trip there to explore the cathedral church of Canonica,
a masterpiece of Roman art.
Bastia paves the way to the Port of Nebbio and Saint-Florent on
the west coast. Set in the dip of the gulf that bears the same name,
this fishing port is a very fashionable place to visit. With a lively
nightlife around the famous marina where celebrities enjoy playing a game
of pétanque, and many café terraces where you will enjoy stopping to watch
the world go by. Wander at leisure through the old town, explore the citadel,
a stunning monument from the Genoese period, and also the beautiful
Roman church of Santa-Maria Assunta, before sipping an aperitif in the
Place des Portes.
Saint-Florent is the starting point of the beach path that stretches the length
of the Agriates coast, 40 km of which is protected by the Conservatoire
du Littoral. It is an amazing universe of stony scrub-covered hills punctuated
by torrents. A land of wind and sun where the only traces of human life
are found in the “pagliaghji” that provide shelter for shepherds and their
sheep. In the spring, the fragrance of the maquis is at its finest on the
edge of the beaches of Roya, Lodo and Saleccia that are great to cross
on foot, horseback or bicycle.
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CULTURAL EVENTS May
Water sports festival (hosted by the
February Federation of Water Sports Industries)
Cap Corse begins north of Bastia. A sharp mountain ridge 40 km long heading north, BASTIA- 13th Symposium on Italian
September
it is a land of sailors and fishermen. A coastal road takes you right over the ridge and Cinema
Six-day cycle tour of the île de beauté
affords spectacular views at each twist and turn.
March/April
Explore Nonza and its Genoese watchtower that are certainly worth a postcard, BASTIA - Spanish Cinema Festival RELIGIOUS EVENTS
along with Centuri which is a beautiful little port with crystal-clear waters. From here April March/April
the customs trail takes you along the coast to Macinaggio. Explore the nature reserve BASTIA - 8th Symposium Easter Week
of Finocchiarola with the Audoin gulls and the Sainte Marie and Tamarone beaches. on the cartoon BASTIA - Procession
There is also the picturesque fishing village of Erbalunga where, in the 30s, many June BORGO - Penitential procession
painters came and set up their easels. MACINAGGIO - 3rd Nautival performed kneeling down inside
(Festival of the sea) the church
July ERBALUNGA - “Cerca” procession
BASTIA - The changing of the over 12 km long from church to church
governors (historic show) SAN MARTINO DI LOTA
TO SEE July Processions of Brotherhoods
PATRIMONIO - Guitar evenings 19 March
BASTIA - Celebrations of St Joseph
F End of July
rom Bastia, why not treat your- SANTA SEVERA (Luri marina) 13 June
self to a trip to Cardo, a village Festa di u mare (Cultural and sporting BASTIA - Celebrations of St Antoine
nestled against a lush backdrop events on the theme of the sea)
24 June
with commanding views over the 1st week of August
BASTIA - Celebrations of Saint John
town and Cap Corse. ERBALUNGA - Festival of music the Baptist
Take a photo of the Genoese watch-
Mid-August 15 August
towers of Cap Corse, particularly
NONZA - Cultural Meetings (Exhibitions BASTIA - Procession accompanying
the one at Nonza, a charming little concerts and conferences) a statue of the virgin
coastal village, and the watchtower
August September
known as Seneca’s tower where,
SAINT-FLORENT - Porto latino (Event LAVASINA - Annual pilgrimage of
on clear days, you can see across
that brings together types of music of Notre Dame de Lavasina
to the Italian coast. Latin American inspiration)
Participate in the Lavasina pilgrim-
Mid-October
age that draws together thou-
BASTIA - 14th Bastia music festival (Based
sands of faithful followers on 8 on the voices and music of the south)
September.
Early November
At Sisco, admire the “palazzi
BASTIA - 5th International Chess
americani”, beautiful residences
Open of Corsica
belonging to people from Cap
November
Corse that emigrated to South
BASTIA - Festival of Mediterranean
America. In the church of Tomino
film and culture
you will find a beautiful display
November
of sea offerings and everywhere
BASTIA - British film week
you go, you will find beautiful
Roman chapels with pure and December
simple lines, for example, the BASTIA - U Mercà di Natale
(Christmas market)
churches of Santa-Maria Assunta
at Canari and the church of Saint
COUNTRY FAIRS
Michel at Sisco, a masterpiece from
the 21st century. July
LURI - Wine Fair
MARKETS
TO TASTE
Every Sunday morning
BASTIA, PLACE ST NICOLAS- Flea
market
T
he famous Cap Corse and
SPORTING EVENTS
Patrimonio wines, two AOCs
(wines with guarantee of origin) April
that in addition to the red, white BIGUGLIA - Fita star kalliste
and rosé wines also produce two (This competition involves the best
national and international archers)
sweet wines, one white, one red
which are quite rare. A wine fair
is held on the first weekend in
July in Luri.
Information available from Tourist Offices and Tourist Information Centres. See list on page 47.
16 17
E
ast Coast
Costa Serena - Costa Verde - Castagniccia
I
f you can see vast beaches in front of you and behind, stand hills and mountains
that are cool and shady: you are on the east coast. And, since you are on holiday,
why not start by laying your towel down on the powdery sand of the Costa Serena
or the Costa Verde? From the Moriani-Plage at Aléria to Ghisonaccia, beaches stretch
for miles bordered by sumptuous pine forests. A favourite with holidaymakers, the
region’s resorts blend in nicely with the natural surroundings.
The first visitors to this area were the Phoenicians that founded Aléria in the 6th
century BC. Occupied since then by the Etruscans, the Carthaginians and the
Romans, the town was finally razed to the ground by the Vandals in the 5th
century. Trace its history through the archaeological site here and in the Museum
of Aléria that is located in the Fort of Matra, and includes a collection of
magnificent Greek ceramics.
In this region of vast open spaces, you will enjoy seaside outings and swim-
ming in the many rivers that flow through the region. Here, all the joys of
the seaside, sunshine and gastronomy abound. The large farming concerns
produce juicy shaddocks (type of grapefruit), clementines, kiwis, avocados
and quality wines, while aquaculture activities will fill your plate with a wide
variety of seafood and fish.
Turning inland now, an ocean of forests awaits you. The origin of
these forests dates back to 1584 when the Genoese organised the
systematic planting of precious tree species, in particular chestnut
trees. As the region was highly populated at that time, the orchard
became a vast forest of chestnut trees giving its face and name to
the area known as Castagniccia today (castagna – chestnut).
A land of popular revolts (Pascal Paoli was proclaimed general-in-chief
of the Corsican nation in 1755), Castagniccia will charm you with its
character, its stone-roofed houses that all have their own “rataghju”
(chestnut drying room) and its flamboyant autumnal colours. The
regioncovers the three “pieves” (ancient parishes) of Alesani, Orezza
and Ampugnani, all of which are an ideal place for forest walks
from where emerge, like the light of a lighthouse across the sea,
the sound of the peeling bells of the Baroque churches.
Further south is the region of Ghisoni, where you can see a pretty
16th-century village and also enjoy walks that are full of things to
discover in one of Europe’s most beautiful umbrella pine forests.
From Ghisoni, head to the resort of Renoso where, in the winter, you can ski
in a vast and fully-preserved natural setting. It is the starting point for climbing
Mont Renoso (2352m), one of the highest peaks in Corsica. Make the most of
your climb to visit the sheep barns of the Pozzi, these peat bogs that punctuate
the bright green moss with blue patches.
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