by Darwin Porter, Danforth Prince & Cheryl A. Pientka France FOR DUMmIES ‰ 4TH EDITION s 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page iii s 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page iii Plan your trip with For Dummies Covering the most popular destinations in North America and Europe, For Dummies travel guides are the ultimate user-friendly trip planners. Available wherever books are sold or go to www.dummies.com And book it with our online partner, Frommers.com � Book airfare,hotels and packages � Find the hottest deals � Get breaking travel news � Enter to win vacations � Share trip photos and stories � And much more Frommers.com,rated the #1 Travel Web Site by PC Magazine 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page i Available wherever books are sold. Go to www.dummies.com or call 1-877-762-2974 to order direct. The fun and easy way™ to travel! U.S.A. 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Pientka France FOR DUMmIES ‰ 4TH EDITION s 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page iii France For Dummies®, 4th Edition Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 www.wiley.com Copyright © 2007 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permit- ted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. 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For technical support, please visit www.wiley.com/techsupport. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2007924225 ISBN: 978-0-470-08581-3 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page iv About the Authors Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince: As a team of veteran travel writ- ers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have produced numerous titles for Wiley Publishing, including best-selling guides to Italy, France, the Caribbean, England, Germany, and Spain. Porter is also a Hollywood columnist and biographer, and his radio broadcasts devoted to popular culture are heard in all 50 states. His most recent biography is Brando Unzipped, which explores the private life of Marlon Brando. Formerly with the Paris bureau of the New York Times, Prince is today the presi- dent of Blood Moon Productions and other media-related firms. Cheryl A. Pientka (coauthor with Joseph Alexiou on all Paris chapters): Cheryl Pientka is the author of Paris For Dummies and coauthor of Frommer’s Paris on $80 a Day. She is a graduate of the Columbia University School of Journalism and lives in New York City. Joseph Alexiou recently graduated from Tufts University with a degree in History. A hopeless francophile, he hopes to return someday to Paris (or anywhere in Provence) in some literary capacity. For now he resides very happily in Brooklyn, New York. 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page v Editorial Editors: Lorraine Festa, Development Editor; Heather Wilcox, Production Editor Copy Editor: Melissa Bennett Cartographer: Roberta Stockwell Editorial Assistant: Melinda Quintero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cover Photos: Front (Burgundy, Côte d’Or, Aloxe-Corton): © Joe Cornish/Getty Images Back: (Angers wine restaurant): © Bo Zaunders/Corbis Cartoons: Rich Tennant (www.the5thwave.com) Composition Services Project Coordinator: Patrick Redmond Layout and Graphics: Claudia Bell, Denny Hager, Joyce Haughey, Stephanie D. Jumper, Melanee Prendergast, Julie Trippetti Proofreaders: Aptara, Susan Moritz Indexer: Aptara Wiley Bicentennial Logo: Richard J. Pacifico Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services Publisher’s Acknowledgments We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/. Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: 01_085813 ffirs.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page vi Contents at a Glance Introduction.......................................................1 Part I: Introducing France...................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of France ....................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into France ........................................19 Chapter 3: Deciding Where and When to Go ..............................34 Chapter 4: Four Great France Itineraries......................................48 Part II: Planning Your Trip to France .................55 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................57 Chapter 6: Getting to France..........................................................70 Chapter 7: Getting Around France ................................................78 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................85 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests..........93 Chapter 10: Taking Care of Remaining Details ..........................102 Part III: Paris and the Best of the Ile de France ........................................113 Chapter 11: Settling into Paris, City of Light..............................115 Chapter 12: Exploring Paris ........................................................171 Chapter 13: Traveling Beyond Paris: Five Great Day Trips......225 Part IV: Tours and the Loire Valley Châteaux....243 Chapter 14: Tours: Gateway to Châteaux Country....................245 Chapter 15: The Best of the Loire Valley ..................................257 Part V: Normandy and Brittany.......................295 Chapter 16: Normandy..................................................................297 Chapter 17: Brittany......................................................................320 Part VI: Provence and the Riviera....................335 Chapter 18: The Best of Provence ..............................................337 Chapter 19: Introducing the Riviera............................................388 Chapter 20: Nice, Monaco, and Beyond ....................................394 Chapter 21: The Western Riviera: From St-Tropez to Cannes....435 Part VII: The Part of Tens................................481 Chapter 22: Bon Appétit: Ten Foods You’ll Want to Taste While in France ........................................................483 Chapter 23: The Art of the Souvenir: Ten Gifts to Buy in France ......................................................................486 Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................489 Index.............................................................507 02_085813 ftoc.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page vii Maps at a Glance The Regions of France ..............................................................................36 Four Great France Itineraries ..................................................................51 Paris Neighborhoods ..............................................................................124 Paris Accommodations ..........................................................................136 Paris Dining ..............................................................................................150 Paris’s Top Attractions ..........................................................................172 Notre-Dame de Paris ..............................................................................176 The Louvre ..............................................................................................183 The Ile de France ....................................................................................227 Versailles ..................................................................................................229 Fontainebleau ..........................................................................................233 Notre-Dame de Chartres ........................................................................237 Tours ........................................................................................................247 The Loire Valley ......................................................................................259 Orléans......................................................................................................291 Normandy ................................................................................................299 Rouen ........................................................................................................301 Mont-St-Michel ........................................................................................317 Brittany ....................................................................................................321 Nantes ......................................................................................................323 Provence ..................................................................................................339 Avignon ....................................................................................................341 Palais des Papes ......................................................................................349 St-Rémy-de-Provence ..............................................................................355 Arles ..........................................................................................................365 Aix-en-Provence ......................................................................................375 Marseille ..................................................................................................383 The French Riviera ..................................................................................390 Nice............................................................................................................397 Monaco ....................................................................................................415 St-Tropez ..................................................................................................439 Cannes ......................................................................................................449 02_085813 ftoc.qxp 3/29/07 10:19 PM Page viii