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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL FRANCE EYEWITNESS TRAVEL FRANCE Contents Project Editor Rosemary Bailey How to Use this Art Editor Janis Utton Guide 6 Editors Tanya Colbourne, Fiona Morgan, Anna Streiffert, Celia Woolfrey Designers Joy FitzSimmons, Erika Lang, Clare Sullivan Map Co-ordinators Simon Farbrother, David Pugh Researcher Philippa Richmond Main Contributors John Ardagh, Rosemary Bailey, Judith Fayard, Lisa Gerard-Sharp, Colin Jones, Alister Kershaw, Alec Lobrano, Anthony Roberts, Alan Tillier, Nigel Tisdall Bust of Charlemagne Photographers Max Alexander, Neil Lukas, John Parker, Kim Sayer Introducing Illustrators France Stephen Conlin, John Lawrence, Maltings Partnership, John Woodcock Printed and bound in China Discovering France 10 First published in Great Britain in 1994 by Dorling Kindersley Limited Putting France on 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK the Map 18 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A Portrait of Reprinted with revisions 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, France 22 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 France Through Copyright 1995, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House company the Year 40 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a The History of retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, France 46 mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Paris and A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. Ile-de-France ISBN 978-0-2412-0717-8 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with French usage; Introducing Paris ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. and Ile-de- France 76 A River View of Paris 78 Ile de la Cité, Marais and The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as Beaubourg 84 possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements Tuileries and and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept Opéra 98 responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value Champs-Elysées the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, and Invalides 108 DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected]. The Left Bank 120 Front cover main image: Pont du Gard, a stunning Roman bridge and aqueduct, near Nîmes The stunning cliffs at Etretat, famous for their naturally formed archways and pointed “needle” Further Afield 132 Shops and Markets 144 Entertainment in Paris 154 Paris Street Finder 158 The fishing village of St-Jean-de-Luz in the Pyrenees Ile-de-France 174 Northeast Central France Travellers’ France and the Alps Needs Introducing Introducing Central Where to Stay 550 Northeast France France and 188 the Alps 320 Where to Eat and Drink 572 Burgundy and Le Nord and Franche-Comté 330 Shopping in Picardy 196 France 604 The Massif Central 356 Champagne 210 Entertainment in The Rhône Valley and France 608 Alsace and French Alps 376 Lorraine 222 Specialist Holidays Southwest and Outdoor France Activities 612 Introducing Survival Guide Southwest France 398 Practical Poitou and Information 620 Aquitaine 408 Travel Périgord, Quercy Information 630 and Gascony 430 General Index 642 The Pyrenees 452 Acknowledgments 668 The South Grape harvest in Alsace Phrase Book 671 of France Western France Introducing the South of France 470 Introducing Western France 240 Languedoc- Roussillon 480 Normandy 250 Provence and Brittany 272 the Côte d’Azur 502 The Loire Valley 290 Corsica 536 Palais des Papes, Avignon (cid:7) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most important sights, with maps, pictures from your visit to France. It provides and illustrations. Throughout, features both expert recommendations and cover topics from food and wine to detailed practical information. culture and beaches. Restaurant and Introducing France maps the country hotel recommendations can be found and sets it in its historical and cultural in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide context. The 15 regional chapters, has tips on everything from the French plus Paris and Ile-de-France, describe telephone system to transport. Paris and Ile-de-France The centre of Paris has been sights described. A further detailed information for each divided into five sightseeing section covers the Ile-de-France. sight follows the map’s areas. Each has its own chapter, All sights are numbered and numerical order, making sights which opens with a list of the plotted on an area map. The easy to locate within the chapter. PARIS AND ILEDEFRANCE (cid:7) 85 All pages relating to Paris and Ile-de- IALNED D BE ELAAU CBIOTUE,R MGARAIS France have green thumb tabs. 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E-uAL RLNe.tLSTy6seUe Ooa AM epe sApI-rPLF cT uNiSMEElHa r aeatBDRRAmrE iCAotIAcai ereE sTesoLNene SéoEotKIrcI re L FreMBFdn faE TTEMi nA neh bDAcdRaddEhensUayEailAseee BdeVLpIr, sSO nAe lVmo,i A UfCVesthMiNaRnIeccigtT GpDdce atEens to,An S ro9estiaird n,,r eR 1ln c H Hnc0wF yorAu ouotcwvdggsrIM keoeoaSe.i.r g hiicnAemgess N0P7qTaobtaRapp5pCfTJP8roTr ceuetaqSMTdr uhaeeheuh54l nhaq3hhhaelsehhafxuemDus ah1noed adln mes0 v seE ooopedpte–n0dei 9rta dt9c i spw1s0ehoH Hdn aigannTn e4h d 6e Pu tteeben tf6a h4 sbmaieilrôtueealo)e ee9Bhhoar td mus’b1it.o.taglilHot rh rniu tie piczaôd arrtIrnM-lt25tm1l Apheeetslny- ypEroyiomô cviiistp CisfT seecul7cil3atr0m de odua-s ru tead oetoSa o,eererpoo(e d.o Aoe5t nCie ptnerepobnnaeoenBuviuhqonetorrl)efshnmmt,s s opr .ohlin sfr aiw ltn dous9Uiids-t-erceaz Gap cgin u:tomlVScsotwrras lt eoSeurefrhp s bi rB1 oynhiah.h otg in ch1vrevCrst elBlawtv d-Vi0dd3roHoye Tlemysees eehetJoyt5hne hdTlsboeia,. lees a o r s g l i asl.Oaisru 2(eâu(p e-tlTetn: mst irPcsyeuitc0e e0eOi opqfusitt ronnd, le3ercJ xq ico ao, 1et1 eaccns al c–SisrUulpahowdu aio2c gl,una ls tfadrnt o iso 1 yah5Ve4e4y0ohtGie9aam-h ecre lertassvd bepsJt7 2yk0rn1e Rpi etnitr ssacura.i s u/aormna o mreiiun9 ,, aa pscutfeOh7c24cnt ol,n7rosGt nlwG,m aqqt.krlw7ren .6eg62o nolS5shc lgep1rorlo1ue)Fttnr dn . u u.e0peiotuoy4d2e7d iieslno8eras y 7 tmu7coiha r0ioecs3tn06ueheawn(n–fwte7 st a0f 4aahn a th f tps ithStih e(cid:7) 4d1c24eRsvn cir1nn.ote stsrtT aou.s--u380i-atu .iii i a r. lvd:awn4hblt arno s)on r I slrr oo4ei.ltiy2 sg l. siercuyf9o e yr0 ,rlr e i ind 7dsa , r.0 te,3 6dt s1 . a (cid:7) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 France Area by Area CENTRAL FRANCE AND THE ALPS (cid:7) 357 Apart from Paris and Ile-de- THE MASSIF CENTRAL France, the country has been HHaauuttee--VLoieirnen e• •A vCeryeruosne • • LAolzlièerre •• Puy de Dôme • Corrèze • Cantal • dofiv widheidch in htaos 1 a5 s reepgaiorantse, echacahp t er. TobCaohupfele etFyeroro nmMarn onuoaducpns teis ettt’i-ssshfF bCstieshpeer prrrsnoaitrntne-urkkvadgelili,ho pn iV sugtti hcass ohle eyrfy ce hrs rgaeeepinmatoasdrsn.ot I aLtootein mffi s drsi eto ststgrugh auireeonpps ngmrl. ai.eHsan,i onjwdowgsrill ehydcv ia ltbeiviteerte,ls a ets uho tktaefyn r n to–eew down nt oe Tannhudem mpbl1eaorcseet d Ihsinn iotsttotrneoo r vraedyi ssu Raittceni nthgdigoia oc vnthneo Taa wrhbla eMnec etslaae n npr do.sf ceaapceh, TgudLtwusttvosmmToehpkooihpnfrrmWisfioea aee tleiets ttcnhnmtd shcuhio irAhanthtg iiiteseghutn enaueagub ep ii svgtuic venai ge cMieitcaauce nnans aeacrlnwc rlsa , iotulc a tcgqcoatcd Aseistvrtr annunserai iasvdoevtscfieendt rrftueot i,lreoe er t clt sCyylwaiteiir ra rscacertr.sRnea s edohannhltIsto lan taaa hp sneo on pfkmotla snre el ufereemloiualfoaadn ss atsssMnmrLlro td,s e noe o eReade,ip o a steu hfanr efm h P isoorLsintulaandossgiuhqorckbtst ia moarf yaekuzh ipCr iisn Cè- msif aeoraotn A oegsetrache rtmeah ncsnu agne rnai,sn.hae-n qv d sicteptaOVonc u e ruii nt mserseaenognrrhieuedglcnln feac’aepsso m h ngt yFes.ks a fl e, e rtse u m laar ,sa,s su n, c e hncer g est.’ os oatMniawcawetCfftsaahhrarnnafoé aTeivreo geertsddFmvvrhosr hnt etotee yMvt euhTbh etni inrltanfa snlr weelhroArtesnii r solgstzd ttennerve geesh,,msa u i ert sfws iriL te suarsta y.pch ioCc eo intvTclrDoLtorllhuoralaryhhitoonuafôoo netnr fe cuzteend -mirs t eetèhsAh gms sato lewddrtpiar eaulhvieth.y gp si nsrhbib uinT t eegn,aetwag ehahrpsMya rgo anrr i oeeil dncoiarct,rardvo e fgheosdgfb Ltn e mn n thnVea eiv uidrhgmvnt deestsexoptsseriu t ltlsn e aoLuGahlol Dior.aaMnentouyin arfetugotncdta ;sev tah tsr,erttian e haos.nepeA ovsivsd uenu , .aba va i ostsxT fosslseeohn l lo ,tCenCc gy euedu yaer atin tt rovshwntnuhhe ehnaeo tss-ee er se sae stl s,, , region is described here, showing how the area has developed over the centuries and what it offers to the visitor today. 358 (cid:7) CENTRAL FRANCE AND THE ALPS THE MASSIF CENTRAL (cid:7) 359 La BoAu brbeonudl ein, ath sep ari vtoewr inn itnh eth sep eMcotanctus lDaro rGeorges du Tarn FENraawhaahgalLK 00ooia nnnrnmekmiioarivkseniytl xddddeiotoktlei hgesMMMSMSMMRSumnhoe dtsruecemieu oeypooaariinegrursecgmnn,nvejinstay stt onnoiootren huooo oeme a ,tfnise r rraci rrcrosln dtes fasrdwwmparlrr riin oira teoayoi aaffrgsnerolaaoalaiwaer cdyul soruyybswdgoyidt imhta odmt tmolnu rrea,woyyfeii2o rin sbtyngtpdt5 addaisshd rioeeogd laee g e ntldrtmclt sfrr Ghgioie l t avncsoocreiuo erogrgioinahgcrenv nsrmiel bnoauebsettgistd ao lal u rrrmda.2 aeuctc wilru5rgnnk nc hy icoaT htsfioygadi loengouahwr r, nnscope natg ec,hlhdsk orieacfi tooifcvisnhn ;co io heMaocâogerrr net enfo s e asdi ttfnoa.chf aiTe utgfne ihr x v ssatMe i hntsrsyapeedsAO,us e iivrsrxCca-foieGJhSfdt-ul a âasloCcanuiClcBnPuauneireoeutr-snen--VnlileltiiLataNiceercIr anMarmn snsnl.GitOeS ogiTataaLGuhheitrlnGTstaoaoPockmvrMttmrten BEtiohaheDeteeannhassnffsuS-Pmtaekaa -aorer orAprrSeddetgaFlfioil.Svidirtgyuhe sartupfinemsetra Mimeiyuai r t-sClelge,nn ucèenOitbag pi,Prtttb inig bnoT rieeiloog i twaeitn ab.lynaee fmotcv ihl-ua gsrijTTs -nhejrt LezCTrucoogBhcYaa ci ehtthsam U-oconhgtthlet V rurariso hcs emsouceâ eiisgs nARtirte vsuolt egItrht.,a n ooso o,tiEeAessi nrAeax urn i eenwwAaNo rn ie-oo7nttsim Moosuesuf-dh itN1 ndpuesepF uagrecvam e/ sew EdSeaoadLrnttroLSBAeAn aeoitaecnsrioraa.ionir redBiu7r tei -Oisnsruiagn elSafuaN ngaorayt5rgto rdogtnlflrnLictooiUinl - 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TTtiHnhhye etmiash Lv sepaec asnluotn liwJpnuute mdturhg rpeema fterryotnm omt, pfw ttahhinteehu semtcha’usrel ly cpD et1eun2vrtterihla ia lnc npe Hdon estCiultlh iro(rysin hsdt.o eiwnp inc)t s RedvtETeooTnhsrwltuetreranatu nipssoccupren ter eit.yoc ooP i nwToper eurdleaeahsursl ae lutcr op wriohny spenig dsrrt uedeteh vrenTrpeeentrr snet Fiu bsator i reynstfn hnugttehhecrldyhiyeer,. dmapriiescosk sseethc diotn ewotdeun rtte oiasn tnr ieand vgb de itaredols w’tcshernieybsiere o divnri. etcewitryi,o wcrseit.n hTth rseeigs hts For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp563–4 and pp591–3

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