Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products PDF
Preview Formulating, Packaging, and Marketing of Natural Cosmetic Products
FORMULATING, PACKAGING, AND MARKETING OF NATURAL COSMETIC PRODUCTS FORMULATING, PACKAGING, AND MARKETING OF NATURAL COSMETIC PRODUCTS EditedBy NAVA DAYAN LipoChemicals,Inc. LAMBROS KROMIDAS OnPointScientificSolutions,LLC. Copyright(cid:1)2011byJohnWiley&Sons,Inc. Allrightsreserved. PublishedbyJohnWiley&Sons,Inc.,Hoboken,NewJersey. 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Wileyalsopublishesitsbooksinavarietyofelectronicformats.Somecontentthatappearsinprint maynotbeavailableinelectronicformats.FormoreinformationaboutWileyproducts,visitour websiteatwww.wiley.com. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData: Formulating,packaging,andmarketingofnaturalcosmeticproducts/editedby NavaDayan,LambrosKromidasC. p.cm. ISBN978-0-470-48408-1(cloth) 1. Cosmetics–Composition. 2. Cosmeticscontainers. 3. Organiccompounds. I. Dayan,Nava.II. Kromidas,Lambros. TP983.F5952011 6680.55–dc22 2010054045 Printed intheUnitedStatesofAmerica oBookISBN:9781118056806 ePDFISBN: 9781118056783 ePubISBN: 9781118056790 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 CONTENTS Preface ix Contributors xi PARTI MARKET AND TRENDS CHAPTER1 THENATURALPERSONALCAREMARKET 3 DarrinC.Duber-Smith CHAPTER2 CONSUMERANDFORMULATOROFNATURALCOSMETICS: UNDERSTANDINGANDINTEGRATINGEACHOTHER’SNEEDS 15 YiHsinChang CHAPTER3 THEMECHANICSOFDEVELOPINGANATURAL/ORGANIC NONGOVERNMENTALCOSMETICSTANDARD 27 AmyB.Olson PARTII REGULATORY ASPECTS CHAPTER4 REGULATORYPERSPECTIVEOFNATURALANDORGANIC COSMETICPRODUCTS 51 AzaleaP.Rosholt CHAPTER5 THEU.S.LEGALPERSPECTIVEONMAKINGORGANICAND NATURALCLAIMSFORCOSMETICPRODUCTS 67 MiriamJ.GuggenheimandMaryJoyBallantyne CHAPTER6 REGULATORYANDSAFETYASPECTSOFNATURALFRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS 89 AnneMarieApiandMatthiasVey v vi CONTENTS CHAPTER7 ADVERTISINGSELF-REGULATION:AREVIEWOFCOSMETIC CLAIMSANDNATURAL/ORGANICCLAIMS 107 AnnieM.Ugurlayan PARTIII SAFETY ASPECTS CHAPTER8 THESAFETYASSESSMENTOFPLANT-DERIVEDINGREDIENTSIN COSMETICS 125 VinySrinivasanandEricAntignac CHAPTER9 APPROACHTOASSESSINGCONSUMERSAFETYOFBOTANICAL INGREDIENTSWITHEMPHASISTOTYPEIALLERGY 149 EsperanzaTroyano,DonnaMcmillan,KatherineSarlo,LijuanLi, and RohanWimalasena CHAPTER10 PRESERVINGCOSMETICSWITHNATURALPRESERVATIVES ANDPRESERVINGNATURALCOSMETICS 169 JamesFlanagan CHAPTER11 MICROBIALRISKSANDECO-FRIENDLYPACKAGING 179 JohnI.YablonskiandSharonE.Mancuso PARTIV USE OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS CHAPTER12 FORMULATINGCOSMETICSWITHNATURALOILS,FATS, BUTTERS,ANDWAXES 215 MarkGarrisonandNavaDayan CHAPTER13 NATURALANTIOXIDANTSANDTHEIREFFECTSONTHESKIN 239 AnnePouillot,LuigiL.Polla,PhilippeTacchini,AliceNeequaye, AdaPolla,andBarbaraPolla CHAPTER14 THEUSEOFQUERCETINANDCURCUMININSKINCARE CONSUMERPRODUCTS 259 BrianE.Kilfoyle,DikshaKaushik,JennaL.Terebetski,SonaliBose,andBozena B.Michniak-Kohn CONTENTS vii CHAPTER15 AYURVEDICINGREDIENTSINCOSMETICS 287 RajarajeswariSivalenkaandMangathayaruPutrevu CHAPTER16 FORMULATINGWITHTRADITIONALCHINESEMEDICINEHERBS 303 InaSchlenoffandRobinChoi CHAPTER17 THEINSIDE-OUTCONCEPTASCOMPLEMENTTOTHEUSE OFTOPICALSUNSCREEN:THECASEFORENDOGENOUSSKIN PHOTOPROTECTIONFROMSUNLIGHTBYNATURALDIETARY ACTIVESSUCHASTOMATOCAROTENOIDS 313 JosephLevyandYoavSharoni PARTV ANALYSIS OF NATURALS CHAPTER18 CHROMATOGRAPHICTECHNIQUESFORTHEANALYSIS OFNATURALPRODUCTSINCOSMETICS 331 StefanGafnerandJacquelynR.Villinski CHAPTER19 THEUSEOFNUCLEARMAGNETICRESONANCESPECTROSCOPY FORTHEIDENTIFICATIONOFBIOMARKERSFOR QUALITYCONTROLOFPLANTEXTRACTS 361 KanHeandMarcRoller PARTVI BIODEGRADATION CHAPTER20 BIODEGRADABILITYEVALUATIONFORCOSMETICINGREDIENTS ANDFINISHEDPRODUCTS 389 JenniferK.Saxe CHAPTER21 OVERVIEWOFBIODEGRADABLEPACKAGING,METHODS, ANDCURRENTTRENDS 411 GauravKale Index 421 PREFACE Fromanearlyage,welearntodiscernwhatisnaturalandwhatisnot.Achildknows thatadeerispartofnatureandacarisnot.Hemaynotbeabletoexplainexactlywhy, buthehas,evenatthisearlyage,aninnateunderstandingofnaturalthings.Thedeeris notmanmadeandcannotbecontrolledordesigned,whilethecarcanbedesignedby man to assume many shapes and functions. The same can be said about cosmetic chemist, manufacturers, marketers, and consumers of natural cosmetics. The issue withnaturalcosmeticsisthatunliketrees,deer,fish,flowers,andsoontheyarenot found in or made by nature. They are manufactured like a car, chair, fork, and a multitudeofotheritems.Sohowcanamanufacturedcosmeticproductclaimtobe natural?Somemayclaimthatcosmeticsmadeofallnaturalproductsarenatural.That sounds reasonable. Does that mean then that a fork made of unprocessed wood is natural?Achildmaynotthinksobecauseeventhoughthewoodisnatural,thefinished productdoesnotlooknaturalandinvolvedextensivehumanintervention.Likewise, manydonotthinkcosmeticsarenaturaleveniftheyaremadeofnaturalcomponents. Ifthereisanaturalcosmetic,itwillbeoneofthemanyfruitsorberriesfoundinnature thatmaybeusedtocoloronesskinbyusingtheirsubstance.Ifusedinsuchamanner andforthepurposeofcoloringtheskin,onecanarguethatberryisanaturalcosmetic. Formanyofus,itmaybethepackagingandmanufacturingpartsthatmakeitdifficult toaccepttheconceptthatacosmeticonthedrugstoreshelfcouldbenatural.Bethatas it may, one cannot argue with something made of all natural components even if manufacturedbybignoisysteelmachinesandpackagedinanartificialcontainer(i.e., acontainernotmadeofnaturalcomponents).Butforargument’ssake,letusaccept theparadigmthatsuchaproductisanaturalproduct.Canacosmeticthenbemadeof allnaturalcomponents?Somehardcore“natural”cosmeticchemistsmaythinkso,but forthemajoritythelackofavarietyofnaturalfunctionalingredientsisarate-limiting step in the development. What percentage of natural components included in the formulawillqualifyittoclaimthatitisnatural?Furthermore,howwouldoneclassify naturalingredients?Forsome,itmattershowtheyweregatheredandprocessedbefore use.Regardless,eventhehardcore“natural”cosmeticchemistwillhavetoadmitthat thepalate,aesthetics,andstabilityofcosmeticsmadeofallnaturalproductswillbe severely limited and compromised. However, the trends of the past two decades clearlyindicatethatalargepartofthepopulationisstrivingto“getbacktonature,”as they say. As such, natural has become a created homeostasis outside God’s or evolution’s responsibility. While it is the nature of life in many poor third world countries,intheWesterndevelopedworld,the“gettingbacktonature”trendismostly drivenbythewealthierpopulation thatcanaffordshoppingfororganicandunpro- cessed food, vitamins andsupplements,and alternativemedicinal practices. ix x PREFACE Whenitcomestocosmeticsandpersonalcare,thissenseof“natural”confusion andcreatedhomeostasishaspenetratedalmosteveryaspectofproductdevelopment: from the sourcing and definitions of raw materials used, to the design of the formulations, and to the testing requirements, regulations, and their enforcement. Manyofusinthecosmeticindustrydidnotanddonotknowhowtodigestthisnew paradigmof“naturalcosmetics,”andhowtotranslateittopracticality.Thisbookisan attempttomitigatetheconfusionover“naturalcosmetics”andisdesignedtoprovide thereaderwiththebasictoolsandideastodevelopnaturallyderivedformulations. This book is neither developed by hardcore natural cosmetic scientists, manufac- turers,ormarketerswhowanttopushtheirownuniqueagenda.Norisitdesignedto championanyspecialinterestgroup’sagenda.Itistailoredbyconventionalcosmetic scientists whose agenda is to merely make sense of this business opportunity. We specificallychosecontributorsassociatedwithourindustrybutfromvariedwalksof life,backgrounds,andspecialtiestogiveafreshoutlookonthesubjectmatter.Our contributorshadnopreconceivedinterestsin“naturalcosmetics”butwereeagerto advise, enlighten, and guide the reader whose interest is to take the primary steps towardformulating, packaging, andmarketing of natural cosmetic products. Workingwiththesecontributorswasawonderfullearningexperienceandwe thank them sincerely. Lambros Kromidas Nava Dayan CONTRIBUTORS Eric Antignac, L’oreal R&D,Worldwide SafetyEvaluation, Asnieres, France AnneMarieApi,ResearchInstituteforFragranceMaterials,Inc.,WoodcliffLake,NJ MaryJoy Ballantyne,Covington &Burling LLP, Washington, DC Sonali Bose, Department of Pharmaceutics, Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy, NewJerseyCenterforBiomaterials,Rutgers,TheStateUniversityofNewJersey, Piscataway, NJ;Novartis Pharmaceuticals Corporation, East Hanover, NJ Yi Hsin Chang, Global Ingredient Solutions, North Tustin, CA Robin Choi, New YorkCollegeofHealth Professions, Syosset, NY Nava Dayan,Lipo Chemicals Inc., Paterson,NJ Darrin C.Duber-Smith, Green Marketing, Inc., Nederland, CO James Flanagan, Microbiologist, CotyInc., New York,NY Stefan Gafner, Tom’s ofMaine,Kennebunk,ME Mark Garrison, AvonProducts, Suffern, NY Miriam J. Guggenheim,Covington &Burling LLP, Washington, DC Kan He, Naturex,Inc., South Hackensack, NJ Gaurav Kale, Chiquita Brands International, FranklinPark,IL DikshaKaushik,DepartmentofPharmaceutics,ErnestMarioSchoolofPharmacy, NewJerseyCenterforBiomaterials,Rutgers,TheStateUniversityofNewJersey, Piscataway, NJ BrianE.Kilfoyle,DepartmentofPharmaceutics,ErnestMarioSchoolofPharmacy, NewJerseyCenterforBiomaterials,Rutgers,TheStateUniversityofNewJersey, Piscataway, NJ Joseph Levy, Department of Clinical Biochemistry, Faculty of Health Sciences, Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, Israel; Soroka Medical Center of Kupat Holim,Beer-Sheva,Israel Lijuan Li, The Procter & Gamble Company,Mason BusinessCenter, Mason, OH Sharon E. Mancuso, Bio-ControlConsultants, Inc., Westfield,NY Donna Mcmillan, The Procter & Gamble Company, Mason Business Center, Mason, OH xi xii CONTRIBUTORS BozenaB.Michniak-Kohn,DepartmentofPharmaceutics,ErnestMarioSchoolof Pharmacy, New Jersey Center for Biomaterials, Rutgers, The State University ofNewJersey, Piscataway,NJ Alice Neequaye, EDELTherapeutics SA, Lausanne,Switzerland Amy B. Olson, Washingtonville,NY Ada Polla,AlchimieForeverLLC, Washington,DC Barbara Polla, Alchimie ForeverS(cid:1)arl, Geneva,Switzerland Luigi L. Polla,AlchimieForeverS(cid:1)arl, Geneva, Switzerland Anne Pouillot, Alchimie ForeverS(cid:1)arl, Geneva,Switzerland Mangathayaru Putrevu, Celgene Cellular Therapeutics, Avenel,NJ Marc Roller, NaturexSA,Avignon,France Azalea P. Rosholt, Customs and International Trade, Ernst & Young LLP, Washington,DC KatherineSarlo,TheProcter&GambleCompany,MiamiValleyInnovationCenter, Cincinnati, OH Jennifer K.Saxe, EcoSafety Sciences, Natick, MA Ina Schlenoff, Estee Lauder Companies, Syosset,NY Yoav Sharoni, Department of Clinical Biochemistry, Faculty of Health Sciences, Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, Israel; Soroka Medical Center of Kupat Holim, Beer-Sheva, Israel Rajarajeswari Sivalenka,Celgene Cellular Therapeutics, Avenel,NJ Viny Srinivasan, L’OrealUSA, Inc., NewYork,NY Philippe Tacchini, EDELTherapeutics SA, Lausanne,Switzerland Jenna L. Terebetski, Department of Pharmaceutics, Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy,NewJerseyCenterforBiomaterials,Rutgers,TheStateUniversityof New Jersey, Piscataway, NJ Esperanza Troyano, The Procter &Gamble Company, Sharon Woods Innovation Center,Cincinnati, OH Annie M.Ugurlayan, National Advertising Division, NewYork, NY MatthiasVey, International Fragrance Association, Brussels,Belgium Jacquelyn R. Villinski, Tom’s ofMaine,Kennebunk,ME Rohan Wimalasena, The Procter & Gamble Company, Mason Business Center, Mason, OH John I.Yablonski,Bio-ControlConsultants, Inc., Westfield,NJ
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