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FORKED FORKED A New Standard for American Dining Saru Jayaraman 1 1 Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford. It furthers the University’s objective of excellence in research, scholarship, and education by publishing worldwide.Oxford is a registered trade mark of Oxford University Press in the UK and certain other countries. Published in the United States of America by Oxford University Press 198 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016, United States of America. © Saru Jayaraman 2016 First Edition published in 2016 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior permission in writing of Oxford University Press, or as expressly permitted by law, by license, or under terms agreed with the appropriate reproduction rights organization. Inquiries concerning reproduction outside the scope of the above should be sent to the Rights Department, Oxford University Press, at the address above. You must not circulate this work in any other form and you must impose this same condition on any acquirer. Cataloging-in-Publication data is on file at the Library of Congress ISBN 978–0 –1 9–9 38047–3 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2 Printed by Sheridan, USA This material is not intended to be, and should not be considered, a substitute for medical or other professional advice. Treatment for the conditions described in this material is highly dependent on the individual circumstances. And, while this material is designed to offer accurate information with respect to the subject matter covered and to be current as of the time it was written, research and knowledge about medical and health issues is constantly evolving and dose schedules for medications are being revised continually, with new side effects recognized and accounted for regularly. Readers must therefore always check the product information and clinical procedures with the most up-to-date published product information and data sheets provided by the manufacturers and the most recent codes of conduct and safety regulation. The publisher and the authors make no representations or warranties to readers, express or implied, as to the accuracy or completeness of this material. Without limiting the foregoing, the publisher and the authors make no representations or warranties as to the accuracy or efficacy of the drug dosages mentioned in the material. The authors and the publisher do not accept, and expressly disclaim, any responsibility for any liability, loss or risk that may be claimed or incurred as a consequence of the use and/or application of any of the contents of this material. Oxford University Press is not responsible for any websites (or their content) referred to in this book that are not owned or controlled by the publisher. To the 11 million restaurant workers nationwide. To my children, who say they want to be ‘ROC star’ restaurant workers when they grow up. And to everyone who works to make this industry better for all of us. CONTENTS Acknowledgments ix 1. Introduction: Why We Are Forked 1 2. Casual and Family- Style Restaurants: Tipped Over the Edge 27 The Olive Garden 40 Vimala’s Curryblossom Café 52 3. Fine Dining: The Great Service Divide 65 Craft 71 The Capital Grille 78 4. Mexican Food: Climbing the Ladder 87 Taco Bell 89 Chipotle 100 5. Burgers, Bills, and No Benefits 119 McDonald’s 126 In- N- Out Burger 135 CONTENTS 6. A Tale of Two Sandwiches 147 Subway 147 Zingerman’s 159 7. The Coffee Café: A Place for Debate? 173 Starbucks 174 Manifesto Café 186 8. Diners: Change Is Possible 195 Denny’s 196 Florida Avenue Grill 206 9. Conclusion: The Road from Here 213 Index 225 viii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This book was most definitely a team effort. First, many thanks to everyone at ROC: our amazing restaurant worker members and leaders; the many fabulous restaurant employer members who partner with Restaurant Opportunities Center (ROC), many of whom are profiled in this book; board members of Diners United, the new and growing group of consumers who are paving the way for a new kind of consumer movement; our donors and funders, especially the Ford Foundation for helping to launch this book; and our board, allies, executive team, and staff all over the country. For research assistance, connections to subjects, and general support, many thanks to Christina Fletes, Teofilo Reyes, Mike Rodriguez, Michaela Allen, Graham Kovich, ROC Michigan members, Dania Rajendra, Alex Galimberti, Lauren Jacobs, Kennard Ray, and pro- fessors and students at the University of California, Berkeley, the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, and the University of Georgia. For fabulous and creative thinking around the book and getting the word out, many thanks to Ariel Jacobson, Maria Myotte, and Elspeth Gilmore, and ROC’s filmmaker and creative genius