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FOOD IN THE ANCIENT WORLD Recent Titles in Food through History Food in Early Modern Europe Ken Albala Food in Medieval Times Meli tta We iss A da mso n FOOD IN THE ANCIENT WORLD lOAN P. ALCOCK Food through History Greenwood Press Westport, Connecticut • London Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Alcock, Joan P. (Joan Pilsbury) Food in the ancient world : / Joan P. Alcock. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-313-33003-4 1. Food habits—History. 2. Food—History. 3. Civilization, Ancient. I. Title. TX353.A47 2006 641.30093—dc22 2005026303 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available. Copyright © 2006 by Joan P. Alcock All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, by any process or technique, without the express written consent of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2005026303 ISBN: 0-313-33003-4 ISSN: 1542-8087 First published in 2006 Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, CT 06881 An imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc. www. greenwood. com Printed in the United States of America @r The paper used in this book complies with the Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National Information Standards Organization (Z39.48-1984). 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 21 The publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book are correct. However, users should apply judgment and experience when preparing recipes, especially parents and teachers working with young people. The publisher accepts no responsibility for the outcome of anv recipe included in this volume. For John Marshant, an excellent friend and stimulating colleague This page intentionally left blank CONTENTS Acknowledgmentss ix Introductionn xi Classical Authors Mentioned XV Abbreviations for Notes XXV Time Line xxvii 1. Historical Overview 1 Population 1 Agricultural Practices 4 Trade 24 2. Foodstuffs 31 Grains 31 Legumes 35 Fungi 38 Fruits 39 Nuts 47 Vegetables 49 Root Vegetables 51 Salad Vegetables 55 Weeds 55 Herbs 56 Spices 60 Meat 64 viii CONTENTS Game 69 Fowl 70 Eggs 75 Fish 75 Crustacea 80 Dairy Products 82 Condiments 84 Beverages 90 3. Food Preparation and the Food Professions 103 Procedures, Equipment, and Utensils 103 Professionals 118 Dining Establishments 123 4. Food by Civilization 135 The Egyptians 136 The Greeks 150 The Romans 161 The Celts 172 5. Eating Habits 181 Meals 181 Food for Special Occasions 187 Food for Special Groups 206 6. Concepts of Diet and Nutrition 227 Theory of Eating 227 Humoral Theory 229 Food Supply 230 Diet 233 Scarcity, Famine, and Malnutrition 237 Taboos 242 Teeth: Diet and Hygiene 245 Cemetery and Tomb Evidence 247 Selected Bibliographhy 25 23 Indexx 263 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I am most grateful for the help that is always freely given by the librarians of the Institute of Classical Studies, University of London. David Allen and Caroline Brick of the Horniman Museum Library, Forest Hill, London, provided help with the Egyptian literature and produced books with their usual courtesy. Professor Emeritus Bryan Reuben, London South Bank University, made valuable suggestions for the improvement of the text. I am especially grateful to Wendi Schnaufer at Greenwood, who allowed me extra time to complete this book, which was delayed through a series of accidents and misfortunes. Her patience has been exemplary.