Food Authentication JOIN US ON THE INTERNET VIA WWW, GOPHER, FTP OR EMAIL: WWW: http://www.thomson.com GOPHER: gopher.thomson.com A service of lOOP FTP: ftp.thomson.com EMAIL: [email protected] Food Authentication Edited by P.R. ASHURST Dr P.R. Ashurst and Associates Kingstone Hereford UK and M.J. DENNIS CSL Food Science Laboratory Norwich UK mJ BLACKIE ACADEMIC &. PROFESSIONAL An Imprint of Chapman & Hall London . Weinheim . New York· Tokyo· Melbourne· Madras Published by Blackie Academic & Profl'SSional, lin imprint or Chllpmlln & HIIII. 2.-6 Boundary Row, London SEI 8HN Chapman & Hall, 2-6 Boundary Row, London SEI 8HN, UK Chapman & Hall GmbH. Pappelallee 3. 69469 Weinheim, Germany Chapman & Hall USA. Fourth Floor. 115 Fifth Avenue, New York NY 10013, USA Chapman & Hall Japan. ITP-Japan, Kyowa Building. 3F. 2-2-1 Hirakawacho. Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102, Japan DA Book (Aust.) Pty Ltd, 648 Whitehorse Road. Mitcham 3132. Victoria, Australia Chapman & Hall India. R. Seshadri, 32 Second Main Road. CIT East. Madras 600 035, India First edition 1996 © 1996 Chapman & Hall Softcover reprint of the hardcover lst edition 19% Typeset in 10I12pt Times by Cambrian Typesetters, Frim1ey, Surrey tSIIN_I): 978·1·46t2.8426·0 ~_ISBN. tl: 978_t·4613·1119.$ DOl: 10.t007/97/1· 1-4613-t 1] 9-5 Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study, or criticism or review, as permittcd under the UK Copyright Designs and Patents Act, 1988, this publication may not be reproduced. stored, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, withoUilhe prior permission in writing of the publishers, or in the case of reprographic reproduction only in accordance with the terms of the licences issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency in the UK. or in accordance with the terms of licences issued by the appropriate Reproduction Rights Organization outside the UK. Enquiries conccrning reproduction outside the terms staled here should be sent to the publishers at the London address printed on this page. The publisher makes no representation. express or implied, with regard to the accuracy of thc information contained in this book and cannot accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made. A catalogue record for Ihis book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 95--83679 o Primed on permanent acid-free lext paper. manufactured in accordance with ANSIINISO Z39.48-1992 (Permanence of Paper). Preface The issue of food authenticity is not new. For centuries unscrupulous farmers and traders have attempted to 'extend', or othewise alter, their products to maximise revenues. In recent years the subject has reached new prominence and there even have been situations where food authenticity has featured as a newspaper headline in various countries. Food legislation covering the definition, and in some cases composition, of various commodities has been in place in developed countries for many years and paradoxically it is the legislative trend away from emphasis on composition and more on accurate and truthfullabeliing that has been one driving force for the authenticity issue. Another, and many would speculate as the more potent, driving force is the move towards fewer and larger supermarket chains in many countries. Such trading companies with their images of quality products, buying power and commercial standing, exercise considerable commercial power which has been claimed as a significant source of financial pressure on food prices and food commodity product quality. For whatever reason, recent food authenticity issues have become news and consumers, the media and enforcement authorities are showing more interest than ever before in the subject. This book, which it is hoped will be the first in a series on the subject of food authenticity, deals with the major commodity items that feature in the food industry. After an opening review written by the editors the next two chapters deal with fruit juice and wines - both areas where there have been frauds of substantial proportions in recent years. The issues of authenticity in these subject areas is particularly complex and the relevant chapters provide a useful starting point for those wishing to learn more. Chapters on meat, fish and cereals then follow. Many of the methods used are common to more than one commodity and here, whilst there have been no known commercial scandals of the same proportions as those in wine and juice markets, the potential for fraud remains. Vegetable oils are covered in a comprehensive review as is honey and, particularly topical at the time of writing, is a chapter on coffee. Eggs and egg products, milk and a number of commercialiy less important items are dealt with in chapters at the end of the book. The authors are well respected experts in their fields and the editors are grateful to them for the contributions to this book. It is not easy for busy authors to place a high priority on the preparation of a book chapter and VI PREFACE satisfy the publisher's need for a deadline. Nevertheless, we believe that they have helped to produce a valuable work with wide interest. We trust that it will appeal to commodity processors, food manufacturers as well as to those in academia and the enforcement bodies responsible for ensuring compliance with food laws. The book, as always, remains the work of its authors and the editors take full responsibility for its shortcomings and weaknesses. It is to be hoped that the reader will find it a useful companion in seeking to learn more of the subject of food authenticity. Finally, the editors wish to thank Mrs Sue Bate for her invaluable assistance in preparing some of the manuscripts. P.R.A. M.J.D. Contributors Dr P.R. Ashurst Dr P.R. Ashurst & Associates, Kingstone, Hereford, UK Mr P. Brereton CSL Food Science Laboratory, Norwich Research Park, Colney, Norwich NR4 7UQ, UK Dr M.J. Dennis CSL Food Science Laboratory, Norwich Research Park, Colney, Norwich NR4 7UQ, UK Dr D. Firestone Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, Department of Health and Human Sciences, Food and Drug Administration, Washington, DC 20204, USA Mr M. Hall Campden & ChorJeywood Food Research Associa tion, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire GL5 6LD, UK Dr D.A. Hammond Reading Scienctific Services Ltd, The Lord Zuckerman Research Centre, The University, Whiteknights, PO Box 234, Reading RG6 2LA, UK Dr I. Lumley Laboratory of the Government Chemist, Teddington, Middlesex TWll OL Y, UK Dr I.M. Mackie Food Science Laboratory Torry, PO Box 31, 135 Abbey Road, Aberdeen ABI 8DG, UK Dr B. Medina Laboratoire de la DGCCRF, Ministere de L'Economie et des Finances, 351 Cours de la Liberation, 33450 Talence, France Dr P.C. Molan University of Waikato, Te Whare Wananga 0 Waikato, Private Bag 3105, Hamilton 2020, New Zealand Dr B.G. Osborne Bread Research Institute of Australia, PO Box 7, Delhi Road, North Ryde, NSW 2113, Australia viii CONTRIBUTORS Dr J. Prodolliet Nestle Research Center Lausanne, Vers-Chez-Ies Blancs, 1000 Lausanne 26, Switzerland Mr R.J. Reina Winchester Engineering and Analytical Center, Department of Health and Human Services, Food and Drug Administration, Winchester, MA 01890, USA Contents Colour plates appear between pages 178-9 1. An introduction to food authentication 1 M.J. DENNIS and P.R. ASHURST 1.1 The issue of authenticity 1 1.2 The significance of authenticity to food processors 2 1.3 Authenticity testing 3 1.4 Compositional standards 4 1.4.1 Species/variety 4 1.4.2 Region of origin 4 1.4.3 Process 5 1.4.4 Industry frauds 5 1.4.5 Brands 5 1.5 Labelling and legislation 5 1.6 Databases 6 1.7 Factors affecting choice of method for authenticity determination 8 1.8 Interpreting authenticity data 10 1.9 Due diligence 12 1.10 Introduction to the series 13 References 14 2 Authenticity offruitjuices, jams and preserves 15 D.A. HAMMOND 2.1 Introduction 15 2.2 Legal investigations 16 2.3 Analytical approaches 17 2.3.1 Single components 18 2.3.2 Detection of adulteration with sugars 19 2.3.3 Oligosaccharide analysis 20 2.3.4 Isotopic procedures 24 2.3.5 Stable carbon isotope analysis 25 2.3.6 Oxygen isotope analysis 27 2.3.7 Deuterium isotope analysis 28 2.3.8 Biological approaches 31 2.3.9 Second extracts of fruit 32 2.3.10 Multicomponent approaches 36 2.4 Fingerprinting techniques 38 2.4.1 Chromatographic procedures 38 2.5 Analysis of colours 42 2.5.1 Carotenoids 42 2.5.2 Anthocyanins 43 2.6 Other methods 48 2.6.1 Trace element screening 48