Food Across Borders

291 Pages·2017·4.29 MB·English

by  Matt Garcia

Food Across Borders
Published in cooperation with the William P. Clements Center
for Southwest Studies, Southern Methodist University.
Food Across Borders
Edited by Matt Garcia,
E. Melanie DuPuis, and
Don Mitchell
rutgers university press
new brunswick, camden, and newark,
new jersey, and london
Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data
Names: García, Matt, editor. | DuPuis, E. Melanie (Erna Melanie), 1957– editor. |
Mitchell, Don, 1961– editor.
Title: Food across borders / edited by Matt Garcia, E. Melanie Dupuis, and Don
Mitchell.
Description: New Brunswick : Rutgers University Press, [2017] | Includes bibliographi-
cal references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2016053283| ISBN 9780813591971 (hardcover : alk. paper) |
ISBN 9780813591964 (pbk. : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780813591988 (e- book (epub)) |
ISBN 9780813591995 (e- book (mobi)) | ISBN 9780813592008 (e-b ook (web pdf))
Subjects: LCSH: Food habits—N orth America. | Cooking, American— Social aspects. |
United States—E migration and immigration— Social aspects.
Classification: LCC GT2853.N7 F66 2017 | DDC 394.1/2097— dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016053283
A British Cataloging- in- Publication record for this book is available from the British
Library.
Published in cooperation with the William P. Clements Center for Southwest Studies,
Southern Methodist University.
This collection copyright © 2017 by Rutgers, The State University
Individual chapters copyright © 2017 in the names of their authors
All rights reserved
No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without
written permission from the publisher. Please contact Rutgers University Press, 106
Somerset Street, New Brunswick, NJ 08901. The only exception to this prohibition is
“fair use” as defined by U.S. copyright law.
The paper used in this publication meets the requirements of the American
National Standard for Information Sciences— Permanence of Paper for Printed Library
Materials, ANSI Z39.48– 1992.
www .rutgersuniversitypress .org
Manufactured in the United States of America
For Cheva Garcia and the many food chain workers
who make meals possible throughout North America

Contents
List of Maps ix
1 Food Across Borders:
An Introduction 1
E. Melanie DuPuis, Matt Garcia, and Don Mitchell
2 Afro-L atina/os’ Culinary Subjectivities:
Rooting Ethnicities through Root Vegetables 24
Meredith E. Abarca
3 “Mexican Cookery That Belongs to
the United States”: Evolving Boundaries
of Whiteness in New Mexican Kitchens 44
Katherine Massoth
4 “Cooking Mexican”: Negotiating
Nostalgia in Family-O wned and Small- Scale
Mexican Restaurants in the United States 64
José Antonio Vázquez- Medina
5 “Chasing the Yum”: Food Procurement
and Thai American Community Formation
in an Era before Free Trade 79
Tanachai Mark Padoongpatt
6 Crossing Chiles, Crossing Borders:
Dr. Fabián García, the New Mexican Chile
Pepper, and Modernity in the Early
Twentieth- Century U.S.- Mexico Borderlands 105
William Carleton
vii
viii Contents
7 Constructing Borderless Foods:
The Quartermaster Corps and
World War II Army Subsistence 121
Kellen Backer
8 Bittersweet: Food, Gender and the State
in the U.S. and Canadian Wests during World War I 140
Mary Murphy
9 The Place That Feeds You: Allotment and
the Struggle for Blackfeet Food Sovereignty 163
Michael Wise
10 Eating Far from Home: Latino/a Workers
and Food Sovereignty in Rural Vermont 181
Teresa M. Mares, Naomi Wolcott-M acCausland,
and Jessie Mazar
11 Milking Networks for All They’re Worth:
Precarious Migrant Life and the Process
of Consent on New York Dairies 201
Kathleen Sexsmith
12 Crossing Borders, Overcoming Boundaries:
Latino Immigrant Farmers and a New Sense
of Home in the United States 219
Laura- Anne Minkoff- Zern
13 (Re)Producing Ethnic Difference:
Solidarity Trade, Indigeneity, and
Colonialism in the Global Quinoa Boom 236
Marygold Walsh- Dilley
Acknowledgments 255
Notes on Contributors 257
Index 261
Maps
1 The U.S. border zone 11
2 Northern Mexico and the southwestern
United States, showing the shifting border 15
3 Bangkok Market, Inc.’s North American “empire” 93
4 Montana and southern Canada
showing the Blackfeet Reservation
and post–W orld War I road network 143
ix