Fodor's Scandinavia 1987

484 Pages·1987·52.965 MB·English

FODORS
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914.8048 F683 1987
Fodor's Scandinavia
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SCANDINAVIA
1987
Fodor'sScandinavia:
AreaEditors:KRISTINHELGA,SYLVIENICKELS,PHILIPRAY,
ZENAST0P,PENNYVISMAN
EditorialContributors:ANDREWBROWN,JANCHILWELL,
SUSANPRTTCHARD,PAULSTRATHERN
ExecutiveEditor:RICHARDMOORE
AssociateEditor:THOMASCUSSANS
AssistantEditor:MARGARETSINCLAIR
Illustrations:ELIZABETHHAINES
MapsandPlans:SWANSTONGRAPHICS,BRYANWOODFIELD
FODOR'S TRAVEL GUIDES
NewYork&London
Copyright©1987byFODOR'STRAVELGUIDES
ISBN0-679-01401-2
ISBN0-340-40032-3(Hodder&Stoughtonedition)
Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutpermissionin
writingfromthepublisher.
ThefollowingFodor'sGuidesarecurrent;mostarealsoavailableinaBritish
editionpublishedbyHodder&Stoughton.
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NewYorkState
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&theSouthPacific Beijing,Guangzhou, South
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MANUFACTUREDINTHEUNITEDSTATESOFAMERICA
10987654321
41
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
vii
PLANNINGYOURTRIP
1
SourcesofInformation 1;PackageToursorIndependentTravel?
1;TravelAgents2;TourOperators2;WhentoGo3;Time4;What
to Pack 4; Taking Money Abroad 4; Passports 5; Health and
Insurance 6; Student and Youth Travel 7; Hints for Handicapped
Travelers7.
GettingtoScandinavia:FromtheU.S.byAir8;FromtheU.S.
by Boat9; FromtheU.K. byAir 10; FromtheU.K. byTrain 10;
{Chart ofFerryRoutes 11); From the U.K. by Bus 13; From the
U.K. byCar 13.
GettingAroundScandinavia:ByAir14;ByTrain14;ByFerry
15;ByCar 16.
ConversionTables 17;CustomsonReturningHome 18.
ANINTRODUCTIONTOSCANDINAVIA—Varietywithin
Harmony SylvieNickels 20
SCANDINAVIANHISTORY—ProsperityOutofConflict 29
MapofVikingConquests32
MapofSwedishEmpire36
MapofGrowthofModernScandinavianStates41
SCANDINAVIANCULTURE—ASubtleTasteforLiving
AndrewBrown 43
FOODANDDRINK—HowtoSkalandSurvive 5
DENMARK
MapofDenmark58
FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 59
PRELUDETODENMARK—TheVirtuesofSanity 66
COPENHAGEN—
Scandinavia'sFunCapital 70
MapofCopenhagen74-5
ZEALANDANDITSISLANDS—HolidayHauntsandHistory 94
THECENTRALISLANDS—Funen,theGardenofDenmark 106
JUTLAND—
Birds, BeachesandRunicStones 11
ISLEOFBORNHOLM—TheBalticHideaway 132
iii
2 793
CONTENTS
iv
FINLAND
MapofFinland 140
FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 141
PRELUDETOFINLAND—Scandinavia'sRichSecret 148
HELSINKI—BroadAvenuesandBrightProspects 153
MapofHelsinki 156-7
THESOUTHCOASTANDISLANDS—TheGatewayfor
FinnishCulture 169
THECENTRALPROVINCES—WayofPoetsandPioneers 177
OSTROBOTHNIA—RuralPlainstoForestedRavines 192
FINNISHLAPLAND—AdventureAmongForestWilds 200
ICELAND
MapofIceland21
FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 21
PRELUDETOICELAND—LandofIceandFire 21
EXPLORINGICELAND—Volcanos, HotSpringsandGlaciers 224
MapofReykjavik225
NORWAY
MapofNorway242
FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 243
PRELUDETONORWAY—SomethingNewUnderthe
MidnightSun 251
OSLO—
TheCountrysideCapital 256
MapofOslo260-1
THEOSLOFJORDDISTRICT—Vikings, Whalersand
TwistingValleys 279
TELEMARKANDTHESOUTHCOAST—ALandFitfor
Heroes 286
THEFJORDCOUNTRY—WondersandWaterfalls 299
CENTRA—LMOUNTAINS, EASTERNVALLEYS—Cradleof
Liberty HomeofGiants 31
BERGEN,CAPITALOFWESTLAND—CityofQuaysandGrieg 326
1
CONTENTS v
ANCIENTTRONDHEIMANDDISTRICT—StrongholdofCrown
andChurch 337
WAYTOTHENORTH—Folklore, FinnmarkandtheMidnight
Sun 345
SWEDEN
MapofSweden362
FACTSATYOURFINGERTIPS 363
PRELUDETOSWEDEN—Dolls' HousesintheWilderness 370
STOCKHOLM—OpenNatureandCityPlanning 376
MapofStockholm380-1
STOCKHOLMENVIRONSANDGOTLAND—TheCapitalasan
ExcursionCenter 400
SWEDEN'SSOUTHLAND—Breadbasket, BattlefieldandSummer
Playground 407
GOTHENBURGANDTHEWESTCOAST—GatewaytoNorthern
Europe 423
LANDOFLAKESANDFOLKLORE—HomeoftheGoths 434
NORRLANDANDLAPLAND—Europe'sLastWilderness 45
INDEX 464
PUBLIC LIBRARY
||
JAN'--
1987
CITY & COUNTY OF DENVER
RDllbb 823SM
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FOREWORD
ScandinaviaisanunusualpartofEurope. Itisasmallgroupofnations,
withinterdependenthistories,manyelementsofsocietyandbackgroundin
common,andyeteachfiercelyproudofitsownnationalidentity;asortof
miniUnitedNations. Itisalsoaregionwhichoffersperhapsthewidestva-
rietyofholidayopportunitiesinEurope,rangingfromthesophisticationof
suchcapitalsasCopenhagenandStockholm,throughthecalmserenityof
clear, ice-blue waters, unpopulated forests and unspoiled countryside to
theadventureofthefarnortherntractsoftheArcticCircle.Allthiswiththe
genuinefriendlinessandhospitalityofthepeoplethemselvesintothebar-
gain.
Butperhaps "bargain" isnotquitetherightword. IfScandinaviadoes
haveadrawbackasavacationdestination,itisthatitisunquestionablyan
expensiveregion.Thisinitselfcanbetakenasacomplimenttotheindus-
triousnessandconsequentprosperityoftheScandinavians.Theircountries
areamongthemostaffluentintheworld, andlivingstandards,andthere-
foreofcoursethecostofliving, arecorrespondinglyhigh. Moreover, the
Scandinavia—nsallenjoyremarkablyc—omprehensivewelfarebenefits, and
this in turn admirable though it is pushes up the cost of living still
furtherbydintofvery muchhigher-than-averagetaxesonalmostall ser-
vicesandgoods.
Butall—neednotbegloom. Theparticularplea—suresofScandinaviaare
nearlyall withtheexceptionofhercapitalcities—tobefoundinthegreat
outdoors. Theopportunitiesforopenairholidays farmvacat—ions(raised
toafinearthere), riding, camping, fishing, sailing, canoeing areabso-
lutelysecondtonone;andall,bytheirverynature,areofcourseessentially
inexpensive. Moreover, the very industriousness that has raised Scan-
dinaviato herpresent lofty place on the world's pecking order, also en-
suresthatalltheseactivitiesareexcellently-organizedandsuperbly-run.
Thereareotherplusmarkstoo. Scandinaviaiseasytoreachandeasyto
travelaroundin.Thequalityofhotels,eventhoseinthedepthsofthecoun-
try, isalmostalwayshig—h. Forthosewhodowanttospendtimeinoneor
moreofthecapitalcities andtherearecompellingreasonsfordoingso
thereareawholehostoftravelbargains,museumentrycardsandinexpen-
sive hotel and restaurant deals. And ofcourse, the cities themselves, as
wellasbeingamongEurope'smostorderly,areuniformlyelegant,urbane
and charming. And whereveryou go in Scandinavia,—there is the added
bonusofknowingthatEnglishwillnotonlybespoken itwillbespoken
excellently, nosmallreliefwhenyouconsiderthetortuositiesofFinnish.
Allinall, it'shardtothinkofreasonsnottogo.
We are indebted once again to the Directors ofthe Scandinavian Na-
tionalTouristOfficesinLondonfortheirgenerouscooperation;specific-
allytoBorisTaimitarhaoftheFinnishTouristBoardandtoPhyllisChap-
man; to Barbro Hunter of the Swedish National Tourist Office; to Jarl
vii
. .
FOREWORD
via
Boye-M0lleroftheDanishTouristBoard;toKnutSj0vorroftheNorwe-
gianTouristBoard;andtoJohannSigurdssonoftheIcelandicTouristIn-
formationBureau.
Wewouldespeciallyliketoacknowledgethehardworkandhelpfulin-
terestofourteamofAreaEditors, SylvieNickels,PhilipRay,PennyVis-
man, KristinHelgaandZenaSt0p, withoutwhomthiseditionwouldnot
havebeenpossible.
Allpricesquotedinthisguidearebasedonthoseavailabletousatthe
timeofwriting,mid-1986. Giventheunpredictabilityofsuchinconstants
as rates ofinflation andexchangerates, it is inevitable thatchangeswill
havetakenplacebythetimethisbookbecomesavailable.Wetrust,there-
fore, thatyouwilltakepricesquotedasindicatorsonly, andwilldouble-
checktobesureofthelatestfigures
Similarly,besuretocheckallopeningtimesofmuseumsandgalleries
on the spot. Wehave foundthatsuch times are liabletochange with no
noticeatall,duetostaffillness,strikes,tires,ActsofGod,andahundred
otherreasons,andyoucouldeasilymakeatriponlytofindalockeddoor.
Whenahotelclosesorarestaurantproducesaninferiormeal,youmay
questionourrecommendation.Letusknow,andwewillinvestigatethees-
tablishmentandthecomplaint. Wewelcomeyourletters, whichwillhelp
uspinpointtroublespots.
Ouraddressessare:
In the US: Fodor's Travel Guides, 2 Park Ave., New York, N.Y.
10016.
IntheUK: Fodor'sTravelGuides, 9-10MarketPlace, LondonW.1