Fine cooking cakes & cupcakes: 100 best ever recipes

100 Pages·2014·10.82 MB·English

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c o n t e n t s
august/september 2009 issue 100
features
34 Play It by Ear 54 Get Saucy!
Sweet corn on the cob is hard to resist come summer, cook once/eat twice Turn those ripe-right-
but there’s so much you can do with it off the cob, too. now tomatoes into a big pot of sauce; then make the
Here are five delicious ideas. By Maryellen Driscoll most of what’s left in three unexpected recipes.
By Domenica Marchetti
42 Grilling Shellfish
62 Party in the Kitchen
Learn a new technique Lobster, shrimp,
even oysters—almost every kind of shellfish takes Those who cook together, eat well together, especially
on sweet and smoky flavor from the grill. We’ll show when the menu’s as fresh and fast as this one.
you how. By Elizabeth Karmel By Ed Schoenfeld
50 Cold Comfort 70 Make Your Own Feta
We took a frozen childhood favorite (remember weekend Project Yes, you can make feta at
Popsicles?) and added vodka (or bourbon or home, and yes, it’s totally worth it. Step-by-step
sparkling wine) for the coolest new cocktail party instructions make it easy. By Bonnie Gorder-Hinchey
of the summer. By Genevieve Ko
76 Eggplant Parmigiana
cLassic/cLassic uPdate The real-deal
Cheese curds hang out on their Italian classic takes on a chef’s rustic reinvention.
way to becoming homemade By Laura Giannatempo and Mikey Price
feta. Recipe on page 72.
fineCooking.Com 3
CONTENTS
august/september 2009 issue 100
24
18
26
17
22
departments
15 Marketplace 28 Less Is More
TRY THIS Tomatillos THE GOOD LIFE For nutritionist Ellie
Krieger, eating less meat is a good
WHAT WE’RE COOKING NOW
Figs, Summer Squash, Nectarines idea, but summer cookouts can make
PRESERVING THE SEASON that a challenge. She has a solution. in every issue
Summer Berries
BIG BUY COOKING 30 Mandolines 6 FROM THE EDITOR
French Bread TEST DRIVE This time-saving 8 READERS’ LETTERS
kitchen tool lets you slice, julienne, 10 CONTRIBUTORS
22 Keeping Fresh Greens Fresh and crinkle-cut like a pro. Here are 12 FINECOOKING.COM
THE FOOD GEEK The science three models that are a cut above. 93 WHERE TO BUY IT
of cell structure helps explain why 95 NUTRITION n
good lettuce goes bad. 32 Beer Becomes a Cocktail 96 MENUS n Ry
Va
DRINKS The classic summer thirst 97 RECIPE INDEX e
d
24 The Classic Omelet quencher also happens to make a Au
REPERTOIRE A breakfast standard great mixed drink—recipes included. n by
o
every cook should know how to make. ati
81 Test Kitchen ustr
26 Great Finds Tips, techniques, equipment, ingredi- p. 24 ps; ill
GO SHOPPING Our latest ents, and more, from our experts. Philli
buys for the kitchen and table. pp. 39 ott
88 Make It Tonight & 42 by Sc
27 The Reading List FAST AND FRESH Just 30 minutes p. 56 phs
BOOKS THAT COOK New must- to dinner, start to fi nish. p. 61 ogra
haves for food lovers. Plus a staff p. 20 hot
favorite. 98 Diane Hatz p. 88 nts p
p. 50 e
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Changing nt
the way people eat, with the help of p. 70 d Co
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a cartoon cow. er a
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4 FINE COOKING • AUG/SEPT 2009
M
oSt Food coMpanIeS have ForMulaS.
W
e have recIpeS.
Shown: grilled greek pizza with al fresco sundried tomato chicken sausage.
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finecooking.com 5
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
The Big Conversation
AROUND HERE, many of our Monday-morning staff
meetings start with a rollicking review of what we cooked
more Fine Cooking
and where we ate over the weekend. I’m never less than
amazed at the enthusiasm and passion this crew has for
ON THE ROAD
food, which defi nes both their workdays and their down- Join us for a delicious
weekend of dining and
time. Somebody will have made a dish I’ve never tried drinking at the fourth
annual Foxwoods Wine
(perhaps their own cheese; see page 70), or discovered a
& Food Festival, August
farmstand I didn’t know about. Somebody else will have 28–30 in southeastern
Connecticut. Fine
been to a new restaurant or a local food event. They’re Cooking editors and
contributors will be sponsored by
an inspiration and an excellent resource, too, since these
hosting gala dinners
conversations often lead to great story ideas. and conducting
seminars on everything
Of course, food does tend to be the main topic of con- from cocktail mixology to cake decorating. With more
than 40 chefs at the stoves and some 500 wines and
versation in these offi ces. But it’s a pretty popular topic in
spirits available for tasting, this is New England’s big-
a lot of places these days, from the front page of The New gest culinary event. We’d love to see you! For more
information, go to Fine Cooking.com/fwevent.
York Times to Twitter, where 140 characters is no barrier to
some interesting recipe writing. Find us there, too, and on Buying InT hBeu lFko —oadn Ldo Uvseirn’sg Git uAidll eU tpo! We haSvPeE twCoIA sLp eIScSiaUl iEsSsues
Facebook. And check out our Web site, where there’s
coming to a newsstand near
always an opinionated exchange going on in the forums. 75 quick & you. Look for contributing
Our bloggers like nothing more than a lot of comments on wwwfdoaaaerrrr yeeeliohhhcuoooiruuuo fsssaueeevs offfooo rrioooteedddc sssi pes ceadlilteodr QEluliiec kK r&ie Fgreers’hs .l aItt feesat-,
tsidnhcis eiItec ihlrnoiek cvp eFeeo ritsgnioteue ssty Ch (,( diowanoonhknkdo i’w tn ot gmehc ’crTviaiseelssl ssg itTo it vnKhoea einttl h cF fyehaoo ieovlunude r pr bGeylles eoin)edg.t k,ey w,a to eoou f srt “ha rwalekrhs eayid b?ee”oan)uc.t htA f iodnnoad tdy h’ sis no. 29from the publishers of fine cookingQuick & fresh with ellie kfriegerrom tdhee phl7uirbeceli5aiscohlietupr hs se oylfsy Efrlom&l bwwe$wsXi..ftXinbbbX -EtteHH(((( s ffcssssrrrrhhsseiiioTTrrotteeeegggttlhheekoolrrooiiooii aaaanppnee ooooKgwwrrpppcc.gllllcsszzppiiollllww nnkkamyyyy aaaii ooppunniirttgg))))nn trrrnniioo gg aahnn&&ggttt o yyygg ir uu ,,aEpp nd,, gTV sEtasscchhroorriirrmmnnr ppffaa,, jjaaiittvvaaoosscc,, ppaadd.. 66oo33 && lover’s gtwtwtuacaalotyaaidoussdo rrgttdlreeeu.yyoe iW hhmt tsorrioooeeo dimnt uuccnbh- iiissof,uspp odoeer yeenreo uffi-sson oozryt wffgehooBooo nai dduianrrgns ss yy r sb B ,,oe7oo piiuuttcf5uue’’ lyifss krrpcda —Cffaaieesaaa aotsfflvvli oo n.caoioo sIoodinknrrosddiii d unttu ee egs ,-
Ptwoehmnintaeet obweeistah,n g srao, rpal.is c7t,e 0adn d using it all up.
issue, from the irresistible platter of grilled shellfi sh and
corn on our cover to a delicious way to preserve summer SsFeuiamtpurppingel reerc ssip easl faromd E llie KrTideghienre’sn a6wea0rrd -p- wmainnriinntgyu b tooek, The Food You Crave WEB
We love to grill—so much so that we’ve
berries (page 18). And speaking of summer, don’t miss built a special grilling microsite just to share our best
videos, tips, tools, recipes, and more. Check it out at
the chance to make fresh tomato sauce (page 54) or mix
FineCooking.com/grilling.
a refreshing beer cocktail (page 32). So come join the
conversation, or start one of your own.
Laurie Buckle, editor
[email protected]
6 FINE COOKING • AUG/SEPT 2009
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readers’ letters
thE WinnEr
Reader tip: Keeping produce fresh why, and if there is a way to add chunks of
fruit, like strawberries or peaches, as found
To keep broccoli, asparagus, and herbs longer, treat them as you
in store-bought ice creams. I believe they add
would cut flowers. Slice off about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the character and more flavor. Also, when adding
peaches you say to “cook to soften.” Exactly
stalks or stems and immediately put them in a jar of water and
how do you cook them?
refrigerate. They’ll be almost garden fresh when you use them. —Patricia DeGeorges, via email
—Lynette L. Walther
Camden, Maine Assistant food editor Melissa Pellegrino replies:
We suggest avoiding fresh fruit because it
can become icy and hard due to its high wa-
ter content, as it often does in commercial ice
We want to hear from you. Give us your best tip cream. If you don’t mind that texture, then
and we’ll reward you with a kitchen prize. Lynette is the by all means, add it—just keep the pieces
winner of this Kataoka tamahagane 8-inch chef’s knife. small. As for cooking the peaches, simply cut
up some peeled peaches and cook them over
Call or write: Fine Cooking,
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Thumbs down
I’ve subscribed to Fine Cooking since the
beginning and have rolled with the changes
A Fine Cooking weekend Fine vegetarian cooking? to this excellent publication. Sometimes
A friend turned I’ve been a subscriber for quite a while and it takes a bit of time to appreciate change,
me on to Fine recently decided to become a vegetarian. Do so I’ve given your latest incarnation a fair
Cooking a while you have any plans to include more meatless shot. I really want to like the new layout, but
back, and I’ve recipes? Most vegetarian cooking magazines sadly I cannot get on board. The magazine is
loved every I have seen are short on delicious, foolproof undoubtedly prettier, with plenty of pictures
issue. The June/ vegetarian recipes that aren’t casseroles. and a flashy layout, but harder to read. It is
July 2009 issue —Malcolm Norton easy to flip through and look at the pictures,
is truly sublime. Halifax, Nova Scotia but I am rarely drawn to the text. Quality
For Mother’s content has always separated Fine Cooking
Day weekend, I Editors’ reply: We hear you and recognize that from the rest of the pack, which offer flash
made a few of the a lot of our readers are trying to reduce the but little substance. Please keep it solid for
barbecue-braised amount of meat they eat. We’re making an the serious cooks who have loved your maga-
recipes, the classic ongoing effort to include dishes that are zine over the years.
crab cakes, and several of the ice creams. vegetarian or can be made so with simple —Peter Rauch, via email
My family was in heaven. I just thought you modifications. In this issue, for example,
should know someone is really enjoying all our Cook Once, Eat Twice feature stars a Thumbs up
the hard work you put into your magazine. vegetarian Fresh Tomato Sauce that takes I love your new look. I have read and sub-
—Leah McIntyre advantage of the abundance of ripe tomatoes scribed to Fine Cooking for several years
Glen Mills, Pennsylvania in markets and gardens now. Two of the dishes and I was surprised to see the negative
made with this sauce, the grilled pizzas and reviews of your new format in the letters
Roll call a spicy curried chickpea and vegetable stew, section. The pictures are great, the content
I just received the June/July issue and wanted are also vegetarian. as good as ever, and I found as many or more
to say, Bravo! To get Eric Ripert, David Lebo- inspiring ideas that I can’t wait to try. I was
vitz, Bruce Aidells, Abigail Johnson Dodge, Frozen fruit especially happy to see the Make It Tonight
and James Peterson in the same issue is quite In your ice cream article “Scooped!” (June/ section. Thanks for the revamp and contin-
a coup. The recipes look amazing. July) you suggested that readers “resist the ued great magazine.
—Zora Safir Hopkins, via email temptation to mix in whole fruit.” I wondered —Colleen Cairncross, via email
8 fine cooking • aug/sept 2009
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contributors
Ed Schoenfeld (“Party in Elizabeth Karmel (“Grilling Eugenia Bone (“Summer
the Kitchen,” page 62) is Shellfish,” page 42) is the Berries,” page 18) is a cook-
a restaurateur, Chinese executive chef of Hill book author, food writer,
food expert, and restaurant Country in New York and recipe developer who
consultant who lives in City. She teaches cook- has written for The New
Brooklyn. He is currently ing classes and writes for York Times, ForbesLife, and n
e
w
working with restaurateur Jeffrey several national publications. Her most Sunset. Her latest book, Well-Preserved, O
n
Chodorow on Foodparc, a new European- recent cookbook, Soaked, Slathered, and came out in May. She also writes a Gly
style food hall scheduled to open in New Seasoned: A Complete Guide to Flavoring food blog of the same name for The ch;
as
York next spring. Food for the Grill, was published this Denver Post. Ba
• • e
My favorite food memory is... making past spring. My favorite food memory is... summer nn
blintzes with my grandmother, eating • The strangest thing I’ve ever eaten is... evenings in Provincetown gathering Dia
e;
two for every three I made. iguana in Oaxaca, Mexico. moon snails. My dad would cook them ot
o
• The last thing I ate was... a salami • My go-to weeknight dinner is... what I with olive oil, parsley, and lots of garlic. er F
and scrambled egg sandwich on a roll. call my back-pocket dinner—beer can • My drink of choice is... a Gibson martini Hug
• My last meal would have to be... foie chicken, grilled sweet potato chips, and with vodka and a little extra onion juice. ble;
ganrads a, speear uferccth winh, iaten paegaecdh p.orterhouse, g•r Milyle fda vaosrpitaer athgiunsg. about my job is... that •G iMoyb bcui.linary icon is... my dad, Edward arket ta
M
it doesn’t feel like a job. of
Food writer, blogger, and Lew Bryson (“Beer Cock- esy
cooking teacher Domenica Brian Preston-Campbell tails,” page 32) is a beer and ourt
c
Marchetti (“Get Saucy!,” (stylist for “Cold Comfort,” spirits writer who lives near on;
page 54) specializes in sea- page 50) is a food stylist, Philadelphia. He is the au- est
pr
sonal Italian home cooking. writer, and the former sous thor of four brewery travel ca
c
e
Her writing has appeared chef at Mesa Grill in New guides and the managing b
e
R
in The Washington Post, Health, and York City. He was the food editor of Malt Advocate magazine. o;
Virginia Living, among other publica- stylist for Good Spirits, which won a • The strangest thing I ever drank was... amp
ti
tions. She has written two cookbooks 2007 IACP award for food photography 60-year-old dandelion wine. It was like e
m
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poached? • To a summer cookout, I would bring... now, two of which I made myself. ofis
• My latest food discovery is... cooking some of my homemade Irish draft ale. • My drink of choice is... that I choose to Mot
in a tagine. • The dish I most want to learn to cook is... have a drink. ng,
• My guilty food pleasure is... steak fat. Texas barbecue beef brisket. mmi
u
• C
For breakfast, I eat... chocolate chip Belgian illustrator Aude hris
Food scientist and cooking waffles. Van Ryn (“Lettuce Alone,” C
a;
teacher Bonnie Gorder- page 22) works regularly ar
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Hinchey (“Feta,” page 70) Mikey Price (“Eggplant for The Guardian as well Na
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has more than 25 years of Parmigiana,” page 76) is the as other international er M
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experience developing reci- executive chef and owner publications. She lives p
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pes and food products for of Market Table in New and works in London and exhibits at hrist
C
companies such as Nestlé and General York City. He has cooked in galleries around the world, including err;
Mills. She teaches culinary, nutrition, many top New York restau- London, Brussels, and Tokyo. H
and science classes at The Art Institute rant kitchens, including The Harrison • My favorite ice cream flavor is... my elisa
of Seattle. and The Mermaid Inn. dad’s lime sorbet. It’s hard to get eft:
• • p l
My favorite spice is... li hing mui (dried The last thing I cooked was... honeydew t•h rough the summer without it. m to
salted plum) because it’s sweet, salty, gazpacho. I’m currently obsessed with... dried o
and tangy all at once. • The dish I most want to learn to cook is... mangos. As soon as I open a pack, by, fr
• My favorite cookbook is... anything authentic paella. they’re gone. phs
from the early 1900s. • My favorite thing about my job is... the • My last meal would have to be... I don’t ogra
• My latest food discovery is... the smoker. immediate gratification I get from a full, want to think about that. phot
We smoke everything. happy dining room.
10 fine cooking • aug/sept 2009