Financial Times How to Spend It - May 28, 2022

56 Pages·2022·27 MB·English

28MAY
2022
Princess
POP
of...
How KYLIE MINOGUE uncorked a BUSINESS SENSATION
PLUS
JONNYJOHANSSON–SOPHIEASHBY–TOTOBERGAMOROSSI–LILY&EDIEASHLEY–MICHAELBROWNE–EMILYADAMSBODE–OLIVIERDEGIVENCHY

1932 COLLECTION
THE STARS ALIGNED
In 1932, Gabrielle Chanel created Bijoux de Diamants, the first High Jewellery collection in history.
Inspiredbytheallureofthestars,itwasdesignedtobewornfreelyinabrand-newway.Mademoiselle
then turned her concept of jewellery in motion – part of her vision for women – into a manifesto.
In 2022, CHANEL High Jewellery celebrates this celestial revolution with the launch of the 1932
Collection, based on the perpetual motion of the stars and tailored to the natural movements of
the body. In the same spirit, CHANEL asked an author known for his reflections on movement
to write a manifesto for the new collection.
After winding around from the nape of the neck, the string of diamonds suddenly bursts
into a shooting star, trailed by a cascade of sparks leading to a sapphire that fits perfectly into
the negative space of a crescent moon of diamonds. A fragmented nimbus then explodes
around a profusion of carats pulsating at the neckline. A line of precious stones rises and falls
with the rhythm of the breath, trapping the gaze in their bewitching depths. Beneath this
blue eclipse, a string of crystals leads the eye toward the heart, where a diamond sun blazes,
itsearly-morningraysoscillatingandsparklingwiththewearer’smovements.Inthistheatreof
preciousstones,celestialbodiesundulateontheskin’s“MilkyWay,”sketchingnewlandscapes
eachtimetheheadmovesortilts.Likethenecklace,thecollectionisaseriesofcelestialbodies
journeying across the skin and enhancing each movement of the body as the planets travel
past twinkling stars. The beauty of the world lies in this radiance. The glow of the stones
is tangible, sculpted into the diamond, itself becoming a jewel, liberated, as if the aura could
beremovedandwornasabrooch.Whatwasaparurehasbecomeajewel,astonecutinstone,
made even more precious by what has been removed from it. From the depths of the Earth
to the Cosmos, there is little light, but it sometimes burns beneath the eyelids in insistent
lines.Thegemsbegintodancewithinus:diamonds,bluediamonds,rubies,yellowdiamonds,
sapphiresandringsrunningalongthefingers,orbiting,spillingtheirbrillianceoverthehand.
Bracelets and diamonds give way to a streaking comet on the skin, a virtuoso play of light
and the ever-changing gestures of a woman who is suddenly the centre of the universe.
Hugo Lindenberg
m
THE NEW 1932 COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE 90TH ANNIVERSARY
o
c
OF THE BIJOUX DE DIAMANTS COLLECTION, CREATED IN 1932 BY GABRIELLE CHANEL. l.
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TRANSFORMABLE ALLURE CÉLESTE NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS, WITH A 55.55-CARAT OVAL-CUT SAPPHIRE. h
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BIGBANG
AUTOMATICTOURBILLON
Purplesapphirecase.In-house
automatictourbillonmovement.
Limitedto50pieces.
CONTENTS
28MAY2022
57
REGULARS 42 THEFIX
11 21
OPENINGSHOT HOMINGINSTINCT
Aslylookatcountrylife Insidetheplayfulworldof
interiordesignerSophie
15
EDITOR’SLETTER Ashby.ByAimeeFarrell
JoEllison’sremembrance
24
offashionpast PLATINUMLADY
19buystocelebrate
17
THEAESTHETE theQueen’sJubilee.
VenetiancuratorToto ByAylinBayhan
BergamoRossitalkstaste
26
FRENCHPOLISH
27
THEFIND Theextraordinarylegacy
Floralliqueurstoenliven ofHubertdeGivenchy.
thespirits ByNickFoulkes
34 29
DOUBLEACT SCALEITUP
TheNewYorkcouple MariaFitzpatricklearns
marryingmenswearand whyserpentinejewellery
design.ByAimeeFarrell isstillcharming
56 30
CULTSHOP MADETOLEISURE
LuciavanderPosttipsher AleksCvetkovicmeetsthe
captoaHackneymilliner manwho’llmakeyoua
five-piecesuit
57
COLLECTING
31
We’refallingforsailor’s SPACEODDITY
Valentines,saysDaisyAllsup Breitling’sCosmonaute
blastsoffagain.By
58
TECHNOPOLIS NickFoulkes
JamieWaterspicksfive 17
gadgetsforpets
61
DRINK
What’sthedealwithwine
NFTs,asksAliceLascelles
61
FOOD
AjeshPatalayfeastsin
MonteCarlo
62
HOWTOSPENDIT
CE
A IN...STOCKHOLM
WALL FashiondesignerJonny
RIS Johanssonshareshisguide
H
N.C totheSwedishcapital
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USE FEATURES
ALSHELLM 2820M2A2Y 36 WILDINWALES 46 KYLIEMINOGUE,
NATION Pofr.i..nPceOssP gLoaucroattAasghecleoyr’esignratnhdedcaouugnhttreyr.s UThNeCpOoRpKmEeDgastarhasturnedwine
WS HowKYLIEMINOGUEuncorkedaBUSINESSSENSATION InterviewbyKateFinnigan. mogul.JessicaBeresfordjustcan’t
THE JONNYJOHPALNUSSSON–SOPHIEASHBY–TOTOBERGAMOROSSI–LILY&EDIEASHLEY–MICHAELBROWNE–EMILYADAMSBODE–OLIVIERDEGIVENCHY PhotographybyLauraBailey. getitoutofherhead
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BAILEY-M MOPhNICotTHoHEgELraLCEpOhTVyREAbRyN: S4t2ylingbyCathyKasterine 50 THESECRETFURNITURE 46
HS: Productionandstyling ALOHA,STRANGER OFENRICMIRALLES
AP byNICKLORD Inthemass-tourismmeccaof RoddyClarkemeetsthearchitect’s
R
OG Hawaii,ChrisWallacefinds widowassheunveilshislesser-
HOT KWYinLeIEinMSINouOtGhbUaEnakt,ACuosmtrmaluiane alternativeescapes knownworks
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Allproductsinthemagazineareavailabletobuyfromeachbrand’swebsiteorstore,unlessotherwisestated FT.COM/HTSI

OPENING SHOT
Untitled,from
SomethingLike
aNest,2012,by
AndySewell,at
JamesHyman
Gallery,London
andRobertMorat
Galerie,Berlin
KITCHEN-SINK
AndySewell’sphotographsofBritishcountryliferevealamore 1945onwards,whichalsoincludesessaysbyEkowEshunand
modernandvibrantworldthanthe“mutedcoloursandorganic, LouStoppard.Organisedchronologically,itoffersastriking
DRAMA time-wornmaterials”thatmakeupouridyllicfantasiesofcountry overviewofhowBritishsocietyhasbeenrepresentedover
living,saystheBritishartist,whowasbornineastLondonand thepastsevendecades.“It’saplaceoftendepictedasa
grewupinHertfordshire.Whatdrewhimtothiskitchen-sink self-containedworld,asanescapefrommodernity,”says
stilllife(above)is“thespacebetweenthecountrysideasan SewelloftheUK’sgreatoutdoors.“Whatisthereisalways
ThephotographsofAndySewell,partof
ideaandthemessier,morecomplexexperiencewefindthere”. morefluid,mysteriousandentangled.”BAYASIMONS
anewhistoryofBritishphotography,offer
Sewell’sphotographsfeaturewiththoseofDonMcCullin, AnotherCountry:BritishDocumentaryPhotographySince
analternativeviewoncountrylife ChloeDeweMatthews,MartinParrandothersinanewsocial 1945byGerryBadgerispublishedbyThames&Hudsonin
andculturalhistoryofBritishdocumentaryphotographyfrom collaborationwiththeMartinParrFoundationat£50
CONTRIBUTORS
JOSHUATARN MARTIENMULDER JAMESMOLLISON AVRILGROOM
“Myloveoftakingpicturesbeganwitha “SubmergingmyselfintheworldofEmilyand FromgreatapestoPabloEscobar’smother, “Ihadn’texpectedthethreadofwryhumour
gradualrealisationthatmytraditionalartwork Aaronwaslikeanadventurousdream,”says theBritish-born,Italy-basedphotographerhas thatrunsthroughhisobservations,”saysthe
wasatrocious,”saysthephotographer,who theDutchphotographer,whoshotmenswear capturedawiderangeofsubjects.ForThe editorandwriteronfashion,jewelleryand
WELL workedforfashionphotographersincluding designerEmilyAdamsBodeandherhusband AestheteheshotVenetianHeritagedirector watchesofherinterviewwithAcneStudios
SE Mert&MarcusandNickKnightbefore AaronAujla,theco-founderofdesignstudio TotoBergamoRossi.“Enteringhisapartment founderJonnyJohanssonforHowToSpendIt
Y
ND breakingoutonhisown.Forthisissuehe GreenRiverProject,intheirManhattanhome waslikesteppingbackintime,”hesays.“This In…Stockholm.“Jonny’sjourneyintofashion
A
H: shotMichaelBrowne,theSavileRow-trained forthisweek’sDoubleAct.“Theirapartmentis illusionwasbrieflybrokenwhenIlookedout wasviamusicandtheisolationofnorthern
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RA tailor.“Heshowedmehowtailoringcouldbe atrueGesamtkunstwerk–abeautifulmixof ofthewindowontoabridgeI’vecrossed Swedenbuthelovesgentlyribbingthe
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O educational,funandatrueeventinyour objects,furnitureandtextiles.They’vecombined hundredsoftimes.NoweachtimeIpassIwill stereotypes.IhopenexttimeIvisitIwill
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H sartoriallifestyle,”saysTarn. theirartformstocreateacohesivewhole.” lookupandknowsomeofthesecretsinside.” seeStockholmthroughhiseyes.”
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FT.COM/HTSI

Cuvée Rosé, chosen by the best.
IllustratedbyQuentinBlake
The Ritz London
MAISONFAMILIALEINDÉPENDANTE
champagnelaurentperrier www.laurent-perrier.com
Photocredit:IrisVelghe/Illustrationcredit:QuentinBlake/ConceptionLuma