Financial Times How to Spend It - May 14, 2022

56 Pages·2022·25 MB·English

14MAY
2022
THE
REBIRTH
OF IBIZA
How the Spanish island became
a mecca for the new bohemian cool
PLUS
THE SKIMS DUO RESHAPING FASHION — INSIDE THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL LIBRARIES —
DO YOU NEED WEALTH THERAPY? — IN SEARCH OF THE PERFECT WINEBAR
1932 COLLECTION
THE STARS ALIGNED
In 1932, Gabrielle Chanel created Bijoux de Diamants, the first High Jewellery collection in history.
Inspiredbytheallureofthestars,itwasdesignedtobewornfreelyinabrand-newway.Mademoiselle
then turned her concept of jewellery in motion – part of her vision for women – into a manifesto.
In 2022, CHANEL High Jewellery celebrates this celestial revolution with the launch of the 1932
Collection, based on the perpetual motion of the stars and tailored to the natural movements of
the body. In the same spirit, CHANEL asked an author known for his reflections on movement
to write a manifesto for the new collection.
After winding around from the nape of the neck, the string of diamonds suddenly bursts
into a shooting star, trailed by a cascade of sparks leading to a sapphire that fits perfectly into
the negative space of a crescent moon of diamonds. A fragmented nimbus then explodes
around a profusion of carats pulsating at the neckline. A line of precious stones rises and falls
with the rhythm of the breath, trapping the gaze in their bewitching depths. Beneath this
blue eclipse, a string of crystals leads the eye toward the heart, where a diamond sun blazes,
itsearly-morningraysoscillatingandsparklingwiththewearer’smovements.Inthistheatreof
preciousstones,celestialbodiesundulateontheskin’s“MilkyWay,”sketchingnewlandscapes
eachtimetheheadmovesortilts.Likethenecklace,thecollectionisaseriesofcelestialbodies
journeying across the skin and enhancing each movement of the body as the planets travel
past twinkling stars. The beauty of the world lies in this radiance. The glow of the stones
is tangible, sculpted into the diamond, itself becoming a jewel, liberated, as if the aura could
beremovedandwornasabrooch.Whatwasaparurehasbecomeajewel,astonecutinstone,
made even more precious by what has been removed from it. From the depths of the Earth
to the Cosmos, there is little light, but it sometimes burns beneath the eyelids in insistent
lines.Thegemsbegintodancewithinus:diamonds,bluediamonds,rubies,yellowdiamonds,
sapphiresandringsrunningalongthefingers,orbiting,spillingtheirbrillianceoverthehand.
Bracelets and diamonds give way to a streaking comet on the skin, a virtuoso play of light
and the ever-changing gestures of a woman who is suddenly the centre of the universe.
Hugo Lindenberg
m
THE NEW 1932 COLLECTION CELEBRATES THE 90TH ANNIVERSARY
o
c
OF THE BIJOUX DE DIAMANTS COLLECTION, CREATED IN 1932 BY GABRIELLE CHANEL. l.
e
n
a
TRANSFORMABLE ALLURE CÉLESTE NECKLACE IN WHITE GOLD AND DIAMONDS, WITH A 55.55-CARAT OVAL-CUT SAPPHIRE. h
c

CONTENTS
14MAY2022 2255
REGULARS THEFIX 48
11 19
OPENINGSHOT TICK,TICK…BOOM
Campari’slonglove Whathappenedwhen
affairwithfilm SamuelRosswentto
Hublot.ByNickFoulkes
13
EDITOR’SLETTER
20
JoEllisononliberation FREETHINKERS
andlibraries Newbooksforcreative
visionaries.ByBayaSimons
15
THEAESTHETE
22
Cartier’sMarie-Laure REBOOTYOURMAC
Cérèdetalkstaste Thegiftofthegabardine.
ByAylinBayhan
34
DOUBLEACT
25
Thegalleristwhotook GREENISGOOD
aceramicsclass– Tryanunexpectedbeauty
andchangedcareer. huethisspring,says
ByVictoriaWoodcock NicolaMoulton
37 25
THECAUSE THEEIDMAR
Theinfluencersbehinda MARVEL
0. refugeenetworkinUkraine. SusanMooreshinesalight
RTS,£42 ByCarolinaOvermeer onmillion-dollarcoins
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SH 57 CULTSHOP 28 JOINTHE
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MOLLY 59 TECHNOPOLIS 22
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MBCH youcan.ByAjeshPatalay
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OTTEGAN,£338, schoolwinebar
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RTWEWAIST IN...MILAN
WAGE Thebestofthefashion
STEWED capital,withCarlaSozzani
VERETT.LILYSILVERTHE
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HESA Meetthewealththerapists EmmaGredebecamethestar
MHABER/TKERS,£850. THESKIMSDUPLOURSESHAPINGFASHION—INSIDEDTOHYEOWUONRELEDD’SWMEOASLTTHBETAHUERTIAFPUYL?L—IBIRNASREIEASR—CHOFTHEPERFECTWINEBAR BwyhoFicoonaacGhotlhfaer0.01percent. cBoyuJpolneaothfathneHceraeaftoreconomy.
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Allproductsinthemagazineare
availabletobuyfromeachbrand’s 9
websiteorstore,unlessotherwisestated FT.COM/HTSI
NEWBONDST. ROYALEXCHANGE SLOANEST. WESTBOURNEGROVE
SMYTHSON.COM
OPENING SHOT
InasurrealsequenceinFedericoFellini’sTheTemptationofDr crimsonlight,tothe1926postershowingabottleprotruding Aboveleft:
COCKTAIL Antonio,asequin-cladAnitaEkbergstepsoutofanadvertising fromadrinkstable,“almostreproducingthemotionofafilm TheKiss,1901,
billboardandproceedstobaittheprudishDrAntoniowithan camera”,toPaoloSorrentino’sprovocative,noirish2017 byMarcello
Dudovich.
arrayoftantalisingdelights,chiefamongthemafridgefullof campaignfilmKillerRed,whichopenswithared-nailed
HOUR Above:Cordial
ice-colddrinks.AccordingtothecriticGianniCanova,Ekberg’s handholdingthestemofacurvaceouscocktailglass. Campari,1926,
seductioncouldbetakenforaburlesqueofanadvertby Usingthese,plusclosereadingsoffilms–includingthe byMarcello
Campari,whichhasoftenusedsensualitytosell.Hisnew on-screendepictionofpleasureinWhenHarryMetSally Nizzoli
AnillustratedhistoryofCampari’s illustratedhistoryCampariandCinemalooksathowfilm –Canovaanalysestheinventionandartistrybehindone
relationshipwiththesilverscreen hasbeeninspiredbythecarminespirit,andviceversa. oftheworld’smostlovedaperitifs.BAYASIMONS
ExamplesfromCampari’slonghistoryofimage-making CampariandCinema,editedwithatextbyGianniCanova,
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CONTRIBUTORS
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HI PAULRICHARDSON MINGLIU FREDRIKANDERSSON JEREMYEVERETT
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ALLE thejournalisthaswrittenextensivelyaboutthe jewellery,thejournalistwasthrilledtointerview CollectivewitharttherapistSusyLangsdale. LosAngelesandParisandhasexhibitedhis
RIG country’scultureandisworkingonanewbook, Cartierwatchandjewellerycreativedirector “AtmycoreIamaverynerdypersonwhois “conceptual,process-driven”worksaroundthe
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FT.COM/HTSI

EDITOR’SLETTER
HTSI
EDITOR I
JoEllison([email protected])
DEPUTYEDITOR
BeatriceHodgkin([email protected])
CREATIVEDIRECTOR
RashaKahil([email protected])
STYLEDIRECTOR
IsabelleKountoure([email protected])
FEATURES
EXECUTIVEEDITOR
’vealwaysbeenabitsniffyaboutIbiza,
TimAuld([email protected])
ASSISTANTEDITOR associatingitwithbangingclubnights,blissed-
JackieDaly([email protected]) outtunesandfoamparties:it’sasceneinwhich
FASHIONFEATURESEDITOR Ihaveneverfeltespecially“authentic”,andit’s
JessicaBeresford([email protected]) THE“EID
certainlynotonewhereIwouldchoosetospend
ACTINGCOMMISSIONINGEDITOR MAR”
LouisWise([email protected]) anylengthoftime.Inrecentyears,however,Ihavebeen AUREUS
ONSALE
LaurenCOHMaMdIdSeSnION([email protected]) liberatedfromthisprejudicefollowingacoupleofvisits. (PAGE25)
Awayfromtheclubbysouth,thereexistsatotallydifferent
EDITORIALCOORDINATOR
ClaraBaldock([email protected]) cultureontheisland–onefoundintheverdantlandscape,
JUNIOREDITORS stunningcoastline,quietvillagesandextraordinary
RosannaDodds([email protected])
homesteadsontheisland’snorthernwilds.It’sanarea
BayaSimons([email protected])
JUNIOREDITORIALASSISTANT thathasbecomeincreasinglypopularwithexpats,who
SaraSemic([email protected]) havecomeinsearchofsolitude,newopportunities,craft
FASHION communitiesandthechancetostartagain.
FASHIONEDITOR Aformerlocal,PaulRichardsonhastravelledaround
BenjaminCanares([email protected]) theregiontowritethisweek’scoverstoryaboutthis
AylinFBASaHyIhOaNnCO([email protected]) Balearicbohemia(page38),havingfirstlivedtherein IBIZA’S NEW membersincludedCharlesDickens,
the’90s,andhefindsitinvigoratedwithnewcreative JohnStuartMillandfutureprime
BOHEMIA HAS
ART verve.Perhapsthenewarrivalshavemoreincommon ministerLordJohnRussell,eachspace
ARTDIRECTOR REKINDLED
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DEPUTYARTDIRECTOR ’60swhentheislandwasstillundevelopedandlargely ESCAPIST ofthemhaveveryreasonablefeesfor
DarrenHeatley([email protected]) rural.Forsure,it’satemptingproposition:withpictures FANTASIES membersandIcanthinkoffewlovelier
DESIGNER
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fantasythatImightonedaystartaceramicsworkshop Checkoutalsothemini-dramaatthe
PICTURES
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NE KatieWebb([email protected]) Foranalternativeescape,BayaSimonshasputtogethera sacredbookcollectiononcesiphonedoffthelibrary’s
O PICTURERESEARCHER listoflibrariessobeautifultheycantransportyoutoanother contentstosellontheblackmarket,removingthebooks’
RE/D PaulaBaker([email protected]) world(page28).FromthereincarnationoftheBibliotheca sealssotheywereimpossibletotrace.Miraculously,most
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MARILIANDRE.COURTESYOFSPINKANDSCULOTTES,£226.VERSACEROYALTY-PRINT GLMCOhaBLrArDuiiLsaoctDiriSaInoRhIvtaEosAaaCOalDnTGlaVehOwcUdEnRlSyRePb,iTTlrLCeaElPRIUPOilPrSRvAatUXRIgOoVazNmBUReDEsnGLREr(tLUIsiYSSCs(CE(aP(dHO&m(lT[e-mail]@vtr)[email protected]@@.ocRmofftmTt)..ccI)ooSmmIN))G ABRti(ssphtaibygarereolhgebctvteuar(epearr3:naaan8aitdgn)siSvegebaen4tensos8letop)aI.wbioriif:zta [e-mail],giybcolobvayulrieereswlySdrtlpiauetoeoeretrnnvhfatwase,dteclhsadateictinrrvrcoytteeoeitlnavtinhsssstbi,eesteoemtnirJwnhtovaeeaeoaendsdnrmgtaeyailLarodonitvronn.hdfditKes.uetainhnnHtsnoeelodaaiarswgnssrsrs-adneheeer,caaxtfvieottvtneenieranssStnitcratadestsnta
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