Fieldtrip guidebooks : 32 IGC

72 Pages·2004·6.764 MB·English

by  Italy. Agenzia per la protezione dell'ambiente e per i servizi tecnici., Istituto superiore per la protezione e la ricerca ambientale

REGIONE LAZIO
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Parks, castles, monasteries:
Discovering history and legends
From the heart of Lazio
REGIONE LAZIO
ASSESSORATOALLACULTURA,
SPETTACOLO, SPORTETURISMO
www.regione.lazio.it
AZIENDADI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA
DELCOMUNE DI ROMA
Via Parigi, 11 - 00185 Roma
Ph [phone] - Fax [phone]
Visitor Center
Via Parigi, 5 - 00185 Roma
www.romaturismo.it
AZIENDADI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA
DELLAPROVINCIADI ROMA
Via XX Settembre, 26 - 00187 Roma
Ph [phone] - Fax [phone]
www.oltreroma.it
AZIENDADI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA
DELLAPROVINCIADI FROSINONE
Via Aldo Moro, 465 - 03100 Frosinone
Ph [phone] - Fax [phone]
www.apt.frosinone.it
AZIENDADI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA
DELLAPROVINCIADI LATINA
Via Duca del Mare, 19 - 04100 Latina
Ph [phone] - Fax [phone]
www.aptlatinaturismo.it
AZIENDADI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA
DELLAPROVINCIADI RIETI
Via Cintia, 87 - 02100 Rieti
Ph [phone] - Fax [phone]
www.apt.rieti.it
AZIENDADI PROMOZIONE TURISTICA
DELLAPROVINCIADI VITERBO
Piazza dell’Oratorio, 2 - Palazzo Doria Pamphili
01030 San Martino al Cimino (VT)
Ph [phone] - Fax [phone]
www.apt.viterbo.it
www.provincia.vt.it
REGIONE LAZIO
Walking
through time
Parks, castles, monasteries
Discovering history and legends
From the heart of Lazio
After “Surprising Lazio - Where History meets the Sea”, the guide to the
archaeological treasures of the coast of Lazio, we renew our commitment to pro-
vide new and updated means of promoting the Region of Lazio’s tourist activi-
ties, both in Italy and abroad.
“Surprising Lazio - Walking through Time” starts from the reality of the envi-
ronmental systems present in Lazio and aims at creating virtual thematic sys-
tems regarding the heart of the region.
In order to meet the evident demand for authenticity, local character and sub-
stantiality of the present tourist demand, the guide offers particular cultural pro-
posals in addition to the theme of environmental values thus enhancing the
entire artistic, historical, and religious heritage of the five Lazio regions, also
through charming popular traditions and legends.
In the spirit of an evocative discovery journey through the history of our civi-
lization, let us explore parks and nature reserves along interesting and original
itineraries, and meet splendid fortified structures among towns, castles and
abbeys.
Their charm will guide us through art and history, faith and legends, nature and
traditions, providing a new and unexpected rhythm to our walks through time.
Luigi Ciaramelletti
Councilor for the Promotion of Culture,
Entertainment, Sports and Tourism
REGIONE LAZIO
Surprising
Lazio!
www.regione.lazio.it
INDex
ITINERARY 1 ITINERARY 6
THE UPPER TUSCIA OF LAZIO THE MONTI SABATINI AND REATINI
Pag. 4 - 9 Pag. 34 - 39
ITINERARY 2 ITINERARY 7
THE MONTI CIMINI THE MONTI LUCRETILI
Pag. 10 - 15 AND THE SALTO CICOLANO
Pag. 40 - 45
ITINERARY 3 ITINERARY 8
THE MONTI SABATINI THE MONTI SIMBRUINI
Pag. 16 - 21 Pag. 46 - 51
ITINERARY 4 ITINERARY 9
THE ROME AREA THE LIRI VALLEY
AND THE TIBER VALLEY AND THE MAINARDE
Pag. 22 - 27 Pag. 52 - 57
ITINERARY 5 ITINERARY 10
THE CASTELLI ROMANI THE MONTI LEPINI,
Pag. 28 - 33 AUSONI AND AURUNCI
Pag. 58 - 63
INSERT
GENERAL MAP
Pag. I - IV
ITINERARY
11
THE UPPER TUSCIA
OF LAZIO
A THOUSAND
DISCOVERIES iN THE
FOOTSTEPS OF BANDITS
We start our journey into the heart of
Lazio amidst breathtaking natural
scenery in Tuscia, the noble land
crossed since antiquity by pilgrims
and travelers, scene of power
struggles between Guelphs and
Ghibellines, rich in traditions and
cultures of remote origin.
CASTLES AND FORTRESSES
Bolsena, Fortress of the Monaldeschi della Cervara: facade.
fortress to be abandoned in 1460; raids and fires, also
T M
HE ONALDESCHI DELLA at the hand of the Lansquenets, caused further dam-
CERVARA FORTRESS age. In 1612, the structure was assigned to Cardinal
Sanesio, bishop of Orvieto, who promoted restora-
Bolsena
tions that proved useless in the wake of the terrible
earthquake of 1665. Used as a prison and warehouse,
THE MEDIEVAL TOWN DOMINATED BY THE SPLENDID it was restructured again in 1750 when Benedict XIV
ROCCA MONALDESCHI awaits us on the hill slopes of assigned it in perpetual lease to Captain Florido
the Monti Volsini overlooking Lake Bolsena, the Zampi. Yet in 1815, the population itself preferred to
largest lake of volcanic origin in Italy. The first defen- destroy the castle rather than leave it to Luciano
sive town wall and watchtower, corresponding to the Bonaparte, prince of nearby Canino.
main tower of the present fortress, were built in 1156 Since the 1400s the Monaldeschi Castle has been
over the remains of ancient Velzna, the last of the 12 named after the noble and influential family that,
Etruscan cities conquered by the Romans (256 BC), when resident in Bolsena, carried out important
and the Roman town of Volsinii. restoration and expansion on the structure. From
Those were the days of the raids of Frederick being an ancient medieval castle, the fortress
Barbarossa when Pope Hadrian IV ordered the fortifi- became an actual fortified aristocratic residence.
cation of all the towns situated along the Via Cassia. Perfectly integrated in the defensive structure of the
The original fortress was erected in 1295, and in the town with its quadrangular plan, medieval tower,
early 1300s, following a vaster fortification campaign bridge and moat, it was an outpost dominating the
of the numerous Monaldeschi castles, members of southwest side, the inhabited area and the lake.
Cervara faction started living there on a regular basis. Its defensive function caused the entrances to the
In 1334 Ermanno Monaldeschi became town and castle to be placed at opposite
podestà of the village and consolidated the angles, according to a strategy that
authority of his family that obtained own- forced all attackers to be exposed on one
ership of the fortress by order of Boniface of the two fronts. Thanks to restoration
VIII (1398), and later of Alexander V started in the 1970s, the Fortress is now
(1409). Political events and the decline of open to the public and houses a
the Monaldeschi (1451) caused the Historical Museum.
4
the upper tuscia of lazio
getting there
Bolsena (RM): From north and south: A1 FI- Monte Rufeno
734
RM, Orvieto exit, then SP 71 and junction Proceno RISERVAREGIONALE ITINERARY 1
for Bolsena (Km 15). Otherwise SS2 Via MONTERUFENO
Cassia that crosses the town of Bolsena. Acquapendente A 1
Acquapendente(RM):
A1 FI-RM from the north, Fabro OnanoGrotte di Castro SP 71 ORVIETO
exit direction Acquapendente.
Otherwise, from the south: SS2 Gradoli MONTI
VOLSINI
Via Cassia to Viterbo, continue to Bolsena
Latera
Acquapendente; from the north:
Lago di Bagnoregio
SSSal2v aVtoirae ,C Aacssqiuaa ptoen Adebnbtaed.ia San RSIESLEVRAVADERLELGAIOMNOANLEE Valentano Bolsena SS 2
By train: Viterbo-Acquapendente Farnese Capodimonte
line. SP 312 Marta RISMEROVNATERCEGAISOONLAILE
Nature Reserve of Monte Rufeno - SS 2 DIBOMARZO ATTIGLIANO
aFnrodm Rdiormecet: ioAn1s RfMor- FIA, Ocqruvaiepteon deexnitte CaninoTeorrent Vitorchiano Bomarzo
(around Km 30). From Florence: A1 FI-RM, Arrone Tuscania SP 204 Soriano
nel Cimino
Fabro exit and directions for Acquapendente. VITERBO
Access to the Reserve is situated at Km 136 of RISERVAREGIONALE
TUSCANIFAiume
the SS2 Via Cassia, between Viterbo and Siena. Marta
MONTI
ONravtuierteo Roers eOrvrtee ofe xSite lvaan dd edl iLreacmtioonnes -f oAr 1V RitMer-bFoI-, SS 2 CIMINI
Montefiascone-Valentano-Farnese. From Rome: SS2
Via Cassia to Siena, or SS1 Via Aurelia to Montalto
di Castro. From Tuscany, follow the signs for
Saturnia, Manciano, Pitigliano, then continue for
Farnese.
FORTRESSES
The Monaldeschi
della Cervara
the farnese “jewels”
coat of arms.
Starting from the 11thcentury, in the area around the
lake of Bolsena, power was also held by the Farnese
HERALDRY family, originally from the ancient Castrum Farneti,
corresponding to today’s Farnese. Owing to the intense
THE COAT OF ARMS OF THE political and military activities of Ranuccio the Elder,
military defender of the papacy and nominated
MONALDESCHI DELLA CERVARA
Senator of Rome in 1417, the family succeeded in
obtaining estates in Tuscia as well as prestige. In time
The common practice of “personalizing” and decorating they acquired and built strategic castles, strongholds
military banners and shields answered the need to distin- and fortresses virtually tracing a medieval and
guish the different corps of the Christian army during the Renaissance itinerary in the Lake Valley: Gradoli, with
Crusades. The symbols and figures were later adopted by the imposing Palazzo Farnese, a Renaisssance work by
noble families as a sign of distinction and dignity. This is Sangallo,Lateraand its Farnese Castle in the heart of
how aristocratic coats of arms and emblems came into the medieval town, Valentano, with the Tower and the
being and during the 12thcentury their use became wide- Fortress, seat of the Study Center on the ducal family,
spread throughout the West. Following bitter internal Onanowith the Rocca Farnese but famous also for the
struggles, the Monaldeschi counts were divided into four variety of lentils by the same name, founded in the 16th
branches: della Cervara, del Cane, della Vipera, century, and Farnese, with the remains of an ancient
dell’Aquila.The coat of arms of the Cervara branch is fortress and a prehistoric, archaeological museum. We
present in all the pictorial decorations of the numerous finally return to the lake at Capodimonte, dominated
family palaces between Umbria and Upper Lazio. by the 16thcentury Rocca Farnese.
5
ITINERARY
11
parks
T R P
HE EGIONAL ARKS
M R
OF ONTE UFENO AND
S L
ELVA DEL AMONE
MASSIVE VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS HAVE SHAPED THIS
TERRITORY: lakes and hills, gorges and mountains are
evidence of a highly active geology. This is the Lazio
section of Tuscia, one of the most beautiful areas in
Italy, where the ancient volcanoes of Volsinio,
Cimino and Sabatino created the lakes of Bolsena,
BraccianoandVico.
The thermal springs of Tolfawere already famous in
ancient Roman times, but lovely Caldara di
Manziana, situated in a unique natural context that
favours the presence of the southernmost birch trees
in Europe, also deserves a visit. In the Monti della
Tolfa the landscape becomes rougher. It is the setting
for many Italian-style western films and a favourite
Above: Lake Bolsena, Bisentina island.
area for horse and cattle breeding, an area of great
natural variety with ancient agricultural traditions at
a stone’s throw from the capital. In this context, the
nature reserve of Monte Rufenois a strip of Lazio
caught within the legendary land of Siena, whereas
theSelva del Lamoneis one of the most interesting
and least known protected areas in Lazio.
the park in numbers
Nature Reserve of Monte Rufeno
Management: Municipality of Acquapendente
Surface: 2,892 hectares
Instituted: 1983
FLORA
Nature Reserve of Selva del Lamone
Management: Municipality of Farnese
Surface: 2,002 hectares Woods of Turkey oaks, durmasts, Mediterranean
Instituted: 1994
bush, along with river bank vegetation along
Provincial nature reserve the Paglia.
Monte Casoli di Bomarzo
Numerous varieties of mushrooms are also pre-
Surface: 175 hectares
Instituted: 1999 sent, including the Tricholoma Rufenum, per-
Tuscania nature reserve fectly camouflaged in the vegetation.
Surface: 1,901 hectares
Above: brushwood vegetation.
6
The upper tuscia of lazio
BOTANY
LAND OF FLOWERS
An interesting and unusual itineraryleads us into the his-
torical center of Acquapendente where ancient majolica
ceramics represent the area’s typical fragrances and the
plants growing in the city. In the Regional Reserve of
Monte Rufeno, instead, the Giardino farmhouse hosts the
Flower Museum, a must for all enthusiasts.
TYPICALPRODUCTS
red garlic from PROCENO
The hills around the medieval town of Proceno, abut-
ting the Tuscan countryside and hills of Umbria, have
for centuries favoured the cultivation of a typical
variety of garlic that has been acknowledged as a tra-
ditional product of Lazio by the Ministry of
Agriculture and Forestry and given an authenticated
trademark.
FAUNA
Red garlichas chunky cloves and a strong aroma, it is
a product of the land obtained with patient cultiva-
The species of interest that can be seen here
tion by hand, careful in each of its phases, from the
are the dipper, hovering over watercourses in
selection of the bulbs to be planted, to the control
search of food, or the kingfisher, carefully scan-
of the flowers at the beginning
ning the water, ready to plunge and capture
of the summer, the drying
unaware fish. Boars, porcupines, badgers and
and the braiding of the
dormice are also common.
bulbs in the character-
istic “resta” strings.
Above: harrier eagle
(Circaetus Gallicus).
Left: dipper.
7
ITINERARY
11
ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES
T A
HE BBEY
S S
OF AN EPOLCRO
Acquapendente
THE BASILICA OF THE SANTO SEPOLCRO, SYMBOL OF
ACQUAPENDENTE, was involved over the centuries in
the fate of what was founded as the stronghold city of
the Empire of Otto I. The Basilica was built around the
year 1000 above the sepulchre of Mathilda of
Westphalia (895-968), Otto’s mother, as an homage to
the Sepulchre of Christ in Jerusalem. Seat of the
ancient Benedictine abbey, it was annexed to the
House of the Templars, the military-monastic order of
knights created to defend holy places and protect pil-
grims (12thcentury). The elegant Romanesque-style
Basilica was consecrated by Eugene III in 1149.
Between the 12th and early 15th centuries,
Acquapendente, Basilica of San Sepolcro.
Acquapendente passed under the rule of emperors,
popes, Orvieto and Siena before being finally assigned to Romanesque aspect. Today we can admire its beautiful
the Diocese of Orvieto in the 13thcentury. This was its and elegant facade and the interior on three levels.
period of maximum economic prosperity and the Paintings on panels decorating the pilasters on the left
Basilica was decorated and enriched with works of art. side of the central nave illustrate the history of the
In 1649, following the Basilica: the arrival of Queen
destruction of the city of Mathilda, the departure for
Castro, Acquapendente the 1st crusade (1096-1099),
became a bishop’s seat and Eugene III consecrating the
the Basilica of San Sepolcro church (1149), the destruc-
was elevated to the rank of tion of the facade in World
cathedral, undergoing radi- War II. Among other valu-
cal architectural transfor- able decorative elements, two
mations. In the course of bas-reliefs by the school of
the 18thcentury the original Agostino di Duccio (1418-
Romanesque structure was 1481), incorporated into the
remodeled both in its facade staircase leading to the pres-
and interior, and redone in bytery, deserve to be men-
Acquapendente, Basilica of San Sepolcro: the church tower.
the Baroque style, in the tioned along with the elegant
typical taste of Upper Lazio.More recently, during the altar in glazed and painted terracotta by Jacopo
Second World War, (June 1944), the complex was seri- Beneventano (1522). Besides the remains of St. Ermete,
ously damaged by the collapse of the left nave, and the Basilica also preserves those of St. Anthony, St.
restoration has brought it back to its primitive Catherine and St. Augustine (13thcentury).
8