Feta & Related Cheeses

256 Pages·1996·25.17 MB·English

by  R. K. Robinson, A. Y. Tamime

FETA AND RELATED CHEESES
ELLIS HORWOOD SERIES IN FOOD SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
Editor-in-Chief" I. D. MORTON, Professor and formerly Head of Department of Food and
Nutritional Science, King's College, London.
Series Editors: D. H. WATSON, Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food; and
M. J. LEWIS, Department of Food Science and Technology, University of Reading
Fats for the Future R.c. Cambie
Food Handbook C.M.E. Catsberg & G.J.M. Kempen-van Dommelen
Principles and Applications of Gas Chromatography in Food Analysis M.H. Gordon
Technology of Biscuits, Crackers and Cookies, 2nd Edition D.J. R Manley
Feta and Related Cheeses RK. Robinson & A. Y. Tamime
Vitamins and Minerals M. Tolonen
Applied Human Nutrition: For Food Scientists and Home Economists A.F. Walker
Forthcoming titles
Food Biochemistry C. Alais & G. Linden
Traditional Fermented Foods M.Z. Ali & R.K. Robinson
Food Microbiology, Volumes I & 2 C.M. Bourgeois, J.F. Mesc1e & J. Zucca
Determination of Veterinary Residues in Food N.T. Crosby & C.M. Clark
Food Container Corrosion D.R. Davis & A.V. Johnston
Technology of Meat and Meat Products J. P. Girard
Dairy Technology A. Grandison, M.J. Lewis & R.A. Wilbey
Separation Processes: Principles and Applications A. Grandison & M.J. Lewis
Microbiology of Chilled and Frozen Foods W.F. Harrigan
Nitrate and Nitrites in Food and Water M.J. Hill
Modern Food Processing J. Lamb
Food Technology Data M.J. Lewis
Education and Training in Food Science: A Changing Scene I.D. Morton
Modified Atmosphere Packaging of Food B. Ooraikul & M. E. Stiles
Food: Production, Preservation and Safety, Volumes 1& 2 P. Patel
Handbook of Edible Gums K.R Stauffer
Natural Toxicants in Food D.H. Watson
FETAAND
RELATED
CHEESES
Editors
R. K. ROBINSON
M.A., D.Phil.
Department of Food Science and Technology
University of Reading
A. Y. TAMIME
Ph.D.
Food Science and Technology Department
The Scottish Agricultural College - Auchincruive, Ayr
ELLIS HORWOOD
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First published in 1991 by
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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
Robinson, R. K.
Feta and related cheeses. -
(Ellis Horwood series in food science and technology)
I. Title II. Tamime, A. Y. III. Series.
637
ISBN 0-7476-0077-5
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Feta and related cheeses I editors, R. K. Robinson, A. Y. Tamime.
p. cm. - (Ellis Horwood series in food science and technology)
Includes bibliographical references and \ndex:
ISBN 0-7476-0077-5
I. Feta cheese. 2. Brined cheeses. I. Robinson, R. K. (Richard Kenneth). II. Tamime, A. Y.
III. Series.
SF272.F47F46 1991
637' .3 5-dc20 91-2626
CIP
Table of contents
Preface ................................................ 9
I Introduction......................................... .11
A. Y. TAMIME, D. G. DALGLEISH and W. BANKS
Historical origin( s) of cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Pickled cheese - nomenclature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Classification, specifications and standards of cheese ................ 13
World production and marketing of cheese ...................... 17
Cheese consumption .....................................2 0
Some aspects of the cheese making process .......................2 0
Milk as raw material .....................................2 1
Processing treatments of milk ...............................3 8
Starter cultures ....................................... .40
Acknowledgement ..................................... .44
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
2 Traditional Feta cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
E. M. ANIFANTAKIS
Some facts about Feta cheese .............................. .49
Materials for traditional Feta cheese manufacture ..................5 1
Technology of Feta cheese .................................5 6
New trends in Feta cheese manufacture ........................6 0
Physico-chemical changes occurring during the ripening of Feta cheese ....6 1
Yield and composition of Feta cheese ..........................6 4
Defects in Feta cheese ....................................6 4
Utilization of Feta cheese whey ..............................6 5
References ...........................................6 8
3 Manufacture of Feta cheese - industrial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
A. Y. TAMIMEandJ. KIRKEGAARD
Mechanization/automation of the cheesemaking process ..............7 1
Milk handling and processing ...............................7 4
6 Table of contents
UF structure Feta cheese ..................................8 7
Dosing equipment ......................................8 8
Coagulatorslcutting devices ................................8 9
Moulding and de-wheying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97
Bulk packaging, salting and brining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
UF cast Feta cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Recombined Feta cheese ................................. 108
Miscellaneous types of Feta cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Mechanization of Feta cheese production ...................... 117
Cheese yield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
The compositional and microbiological qualities of Feta cheese ........ 125
Cheese defects. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Acknowledgement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
4 Halloumi cheese - the product and its manufacture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
R. K. ROBINSON
Technology of manufacture ............................... 144
Chemical composition of Halloumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155
Microbiology of Halloumi production. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Future developments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Acknowledgement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
5 Manufacture of Egyptian, soft, pickled cheeses ................... 160
S. A. ABOU-DONIA
Section A - Manufacture of Domiati cheese and related variants ....... 160
Domiati cheese manufacture .............................. 161
Improvements to the manufacturing process .................... 163
Pickling and ripening of cheese ............................. 166
Cheese yield ......................................... 168
Sensory evaluation of cheese .............................. 169
Chemical composition and microstructure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Microbiology and consumer safety of Domiati cheese ............... 178
Section B - Manufacture of Mish and Karish cheeses and their
associated sour milk 'Laban Rayeb' .......................... 181
Laban Rayeb ........................................ 181
Karish cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
Chemical composition and microstructure of Karish cheese. . . . . . . . . . . 184
Microbiology and consumer safety of Karish cheese. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Mish cheese ......................................... 190
References .......................................... 195
6 Miscellaneous white brined cheeses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
R. I. T ANNOUS
Akawi ............................................. 211
Nabulsi ............................................ 216
Table of contents 7
Baladi ............................................. 217
Gulf/Saudi Arabian cheese ................................ 219
Gibna Bayda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Brinza cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Yemeni cheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Braided cheese ....................................... 226
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
7 Cheeses made hy direct acidification. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
R. c. CHANDAN
Paneer ............................................. 231
Chhana ............................................ 237
Confections derived from Chhana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Latin American White cheeses (Queso Blanco) .................. 243
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Index . ............................................... 253
Preface
White brined cheeses are the main varieties of cheese consumed in the Middle East
and along the shores of the Mediterranean, and yet the literature describing the
manufacture and/or properties ofthe major types is extremely sparse. The aim ofthis
book is to provide a detailed guide to the cheeses in this category, and to review the
available information relating to their production, their maturation and their
distribution to the consumer.
In most cases, the cheeses are still produced on a small scale, and only one
variety, Feta, has achieved real popularity outside its land of origin. One of the
reasons for this single success is the degree of mechanization that can now be
employed in the manufacture of Feta, including the latest technological devel
opments such as ultra-filtration. Whether or not other brined cheeses will be
exploited in the same manner remains to be seen, but as more knowledge is gained
about the traditional processes, so routes for future development become more
accessible.
The specialist nature of the subject makes the involvement of authors with access
to local knowledge of these cheeses essential, and the editors acknowledge, with
gratitude, the invaluable input of the various contributors. Their generous co
operation in the project has made it possible to provide a true 'state of the art' picture
ofthe manufacture of white brined cheeses, and in a manner that encompasses both
traditional methods and modern industrial processes.
R. K. Robinson A. Y. Tamime
University of Reading The Scottish Agricultural College - Auchincruive
1
Introduction
A. Y. Tamime,
The Scottish Agricultural College - Auchincruive. Food Science and Technology
Department. Ayr KA6 5HW, Scotland, UK
D. G. Dalgleisht and W. Banks
Hannah Research Institute. Ayr KA6 5HL, Scotland. UK
HISTORICAL ORIGIN(S) OF CHEESE
Cheese varieties around the world number more than 2000. although at present it is
recognized that there are only twelve basic different cheeses. Mammalian milk is
used extensively for cheesemaking, but the exact origin(s) of cheese or its method(s)
of processing is difficult to establish. It could be argued. however. that cheese was
produced before 7000 BC. or since the domestication of certain animals by man, for
example, the cow. goat. sheep, buffalo, etc. Milk and dairy products, including
cheese and fermented milks, have contributed to human nutrition for thousands of
years.
Cheese was first made accidentally by prehistoric man thousands of years ago
(Davis, 1965 & 1981). It is probable that milk was first carried in containers made
from the skin or stomach of animals. In warm climates the temperature could reach
above 30°C and, under these conditions, the milk fermented producing a curd-type
product. A similar classical situation is the case of a nomad travelling in the desert,
with fresh milk held in a goatskin bag attached against the body of his camel. The
heat from the animal's body provided optimum growth conditions for the microorga
nisms present in the milk. This would, on occasion, lead to souring and clotting of the
milk owing to the metabolic activity of the microorganisms and. possibly, the
presence of enzymes. The movement of the animal then caused the clotted milk to
break up into pieces of coagulum and whey (Helferich & Westhoff. 1980). Hence.
through separation of the whey and concentration of the coagulum. for example by
hand squeezing and sun drying, the 'cheese curd' may have originated. However, it
t D. G. Dalgleish (present address): Utah State University, Department of Nutrition and Food Science.
Logan, Utah, USA
R. K. Robinson et al. (eds.), Feta and Related Cheeses
© Ellis Horwood Limited 1991
12 Introduction [Ch.1
would later have been discovered that a longer 'shelf-life' for such curd was achieved
by preserving it in salt solution (brine), which also improved its palatability.
Incidentally, 'primitive cheese' is made in our stomachs in a similar way when we
drink milk, i.e. made by partial digestion of acidified and clotted milk (Davis, 1981).
Cheese is thought to have originated in southwestern Asia, in what is now known
as the Middle East, some 8000 years ago (Kosikowski, 1982 & 1985). Fermented milk
products and cheese have been developed extensively by many different civilizations
in that region, e.g. Sumerians, Assyrians, Phoenicians, Babylonians, Greeks and
Romans. The historical background of some cheese varieties, with the date first
noted, has been recently reviewed by Scott (1986) and Tamime (1986).
It is possible to suggest that modern cheesemaking could have evolved from (a)
the manufacture of sour milk products (Laban, Ayran or yoghurt), and (b) the
production of concentrated yoghurt (Labneh) using the cloth bag method for the
separation of whey, and with the addition of salt. This latter product is also known as
yoghurt cheese, and the method of processing is similar to the production of the
fresh/soft cheese which is preserved in brine. This approach is evident in some
ancient literature, and Homer (1184 Be) wrote about cheese which was manufac
tured from sheep's or goat's milk in the caves by the 'Cyclops Polyphemus' - this
cheese may have been the ancestor of the Feta and Halloumi cheeses that are widely
produced in Greece, Cyprus and Bulgaria. Similarly, Pliny (AD 23-79) wrote about
'sour milk' cheeses, and these may have been the ancestors of present-day 'pickled'
cheeses (e.g. Domiati and Akawi); these cheeses are produced in the Eastern
Mediterranean (Scott, 1986; Tamime, 1986).
It is evident from these ancient writings, and from archaeological references to
cheese, that pickled cheese could be considered as the forerunner of various types of
cheese. Tamime (1986) suggested that as pickled cheese became popular in the
Middle East region, its popularity spread to Europe via tradesmen from the east.
Efforts were made to learn how to manufacture pickled cheese locally after it became
an acceptable dairy product. As dairies became more established in Europe, where
the climatic condition is comparatively colder than the Middle East, manipulation of
cheese making methods took place; for example: (a) production of drier curds, (b)
preservation of cheese by partial brining or dry salting rather than in brine, and (c)
storage of cheese in cold places, e.g. caves. Thus, soft/fresh cheese evolved into the
many cheese varieties known today, which are classified into the following cate
gories: fresh, semi-soft, semi-hard, hard and very hard.
PICKLED CHEESE - NOMENCLATURE
Basically, pickled cheeses are simply soft cheeses which are preserved, or stored, in
brine, and many different types of pickled cheese are produced in Eastern Europe,
the Balkans and the Middle East. The names of these cheeses may vary from one
region to another, but some pickled cheeses, for example Feta, Akawi and Hal
loumi, have become popular internationally and standard names are now used.
Traditionally, these cheeses are made by herdsmen, i.e. 'artisan cheesemaking',
using raw milk (cow, goat or sheep), and little data is available on the methode s) of