Feeding Manila in Peace and War, 1850–1945 PDF
Preview Feeding Manila in Peace and War, 1850–1945
Feeding Manila in Peace and War, 1850–1945 New Perspectives in Southeast Asian Studies Series Editors Alfred W. McCoy Thongchai Winichakul I. G. Baird Katherine Bowie Anne Ruth Hansen Associate Editors Warwick H. Anderson Ian Coxhead Michael Cullinane Paul D. Hutchcroft Kris Olds Feeding Manila in Peace and War, 1850–1945 Daniel F. Doeppers the university of wisconsin press Publication of this volume has been made possible, in part, through support from the Center for Southeast Asian Studies and the Anonymous Fund of the College of Letters and Science, both at the University of Wisconsin–Madison. The University of Wisconsin Press 1930 Monroe Street, 3rd Floor Madison, Wisconsin 53711-2059 uwpress.wisc.edu 3 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden London WC2E 8LU, United Kingdom eurospanbookstore.com Copyright © 2016 The Board of Regents of the University of Wisconsin System All rights reserved. Except in the case of brief quotations embedded in critical articles and reviews, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any format or by any means—digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—or conveyed via the Internet or a website without written permission of the University of Wisconsin Press. Rights inquiries should be directed to [email protected]. Printed in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Doeppers, Daniel F., 1938– author. Feeding Manila in peace and war, 1850–1945 / Daniel F. Doeppers. pages cm. — (New perspectives in Southeast Asian studies) Includes bibliographical references and index. isBn 978-0-299-30510-9 (cloth : alk. paper) — isBn 978-0-299-30513-0 (e-book) 1. Food supply—Philippines—Manila—History. 2. Manila (Philippines)— History—19th century. 3. Manila (Philippines)—History—20th century. 4. Manila (Philippines)—Social conditions—19th century. 5. Manila (Philippines)—Social conditions—20th century. I. Title. II. Series: New perspectives in Southeast Asian studies. ds689.M2d64 2016 338.1´95991609034—dc23 2015009224 For Carole, who made everything possible and for Matthew and Tracy, Aaron and Hali Annika, Connor, Grady, Jordan, and Bowen and the rich rewards of family life Morning is heralded in Manila by little busy puffing trains roaring . . . into the provinces as if they were really big trains and had some real purpose in being thus early on the road. . . . Their receding eloquence blends into the rumble of other wheels, converging into the city and really having something to do: yellow market carts with red-striped bodies so crowded with baskets that some of these are made fast to the uprights with tough rattan thongs. . . . And vehicles faster than the carts drawn by bays and pintos and sorrels take the road—market lorries loaded to the gunwales with double rows of passengers, bales, bundles and baskets, all lunging along in their mechanical-porter fashion and claiming, at this hour, the handsome midway of main thoroughfares. They are . . . like burdened porters . . . their gaze upon the ground. . . . They roll their careless journey on . . . down the merry vales where lingering mists conceal . . . and at last along the flat valley and over the placid streams with lotuses and hyacinths nestled on their purple-black surfaces. The sun, in its good time, will . . . touch them into effulgent blossom. But now they sleep, yielding listlessly to the small current, wholly imperceptible, provoked by occasional dugouts paddling by. Like the carts, these boats are market bound, and like the lorries too. Manila must be fed, must have its breakfast, and will pay for the feeding, even of its animals. — walter roBB, “The Sunrise in Manila,” ACCJ 8.5 (May 1928): 3 CONTENTS List of Illustrations ix Preface xiii Introduction: Why Provisionment? 3 Part I: The Rice Trade 1 The Manila Rice Trade in the Age of Sail 15 2 Paleotechnic Marvels and Rice Production Disasters, 1876–1905 47 3 The Manila Rice Trade to 1941 78 4 Changing Commercial Networks in the Rice Trade 96 Part II: Ulam: What You Eat with Rice 5 Vegetables, Fruit, and Other Garden Produce 125 6 Fishing and Aquaculture 161 7 “Generations of Hustlers”: Fowl and Swine in Manila 189 8 Beef, Cattle Husbandry, and Rinderpest 218 Part III: Fluids and Fashions 9 Fluids of Life: Water and Milk 253 10 Foreign Fashions: Flour and Coffee versus Cocoa 279 Part IV: Wartime Provisioning and Mass Starvation 11 Subsistence and Starvation in World War II, 1941–45 307 Epilogue 333 Notes 335 Glossary 419 Index 427 ILLUSTRATIONS Maps Manila in 1849 xix 1.1 Water Routes and Nodes in the Inner Zone Rice Supply System, 1885 23 1.2 Malabon-Navotas and the Intracoastal Waterway into the City, 1849 25 1.3 Pangasinan-Tarlac Surplus Rice Zone 35 1.4 Outer Zone Ports in Manila’s Rice Supply, 1862 42 1.5 Average Monthly Rice Shipments to Manila, 1862 45 6.1 Fish Traps in Manila Bay, 1880s 166 6.2 Fishpond Production Zone around Manila Bay in the 1930s 177 7.1. Origins of Hogs Arriving in Manila from the Outer Zone by Sea, 1872 201 8.1 Provincial Origins of Domestic Cattle Slaughtered in Manila, 1885–86 and 1935–38 232 Figures 1.1 Coastal sail craft and great mounds of palay 19 1.2 Tagalog rice system 22 1.3 Hand threshing 22 1.4 Cascos were the primary bulk transport vessels of the inner zone 26 1.5 Northern rice system 33 ix
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