ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHIC PERSPECTIVES ON FOOD, POLITICS, AND POWER Edited by Michael Dietler and Brian Hayden The UniversiTy of AlAbAmA Press TUscAloosA, AlAbAmA copyright © 2001 by michael Dietler and brian hayden The University of Alabama Press Tuscaloosa, Alabama 35487‑0380 All rights reserved manufactured in the United states of America ∞ The paper on which this book is printed meets the minimum requirements of American national standard for information sciences‑Permanence of Paper for Printed library materials, Ansi Z39.48‑1984. library of congress cataloging‑in‑Publication Data feasts ; archaeological and ethnographic perspectives on food, politics, and power / edited by michael Dietler and brian hayden. p. cm. originally published: Washington, D.c. : smithsonian institution Press, 2001. includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978‑0‑8173‑5641‑5 (pbk. : alk. paper) — isbn 978‑0‑8173‑8538‑5 (electronic) 1. festivals—congresses. 2. fasts and feasts—congresses. i. Dietler, michael. ii. hayden, brian. GT3930.f4 2010 394.26—dc22 2010003231 Contents List of Illustrations vii List ofTables ix Contributors xi 1 Digesting the Feast-Good to Eat, Good to Drink, Good to Think: An Introduction 1 Michael Dietler and Brian Hayden PART 1: ETHNOGRAPHIC PERSPECTIVES 2 Fabulous Feasts: A Prolegomenon to the Importance of Feasting 23 Brian Hayden 3 Theorizing the Feast: Rituals of Consumption, Commensal Politics, and Power in African Contexts 65 Michael Dietler 4 Of Feasting and Value: Enga Feasts in a Historical Perspective (Papua New Guinea) 115 Polly Wiessner 5 Akha Feasting: An Ethnoarchaeological Perspective ~144 Michael J Clarke 6 Polynesian Feasting in Ethnohistoric, Ethnographic, and Archaeological Con texts: A Comparison ofThree Societies 168 Patrick V. Kirch 7 Feasting for Prosperity: A Study of Southern Northwest Coast Feasting 185 James R. Perodie Contents 8 The Big Drink: Feast and Forum in the Upper Amazon 215 Warren R. DeBoer 9 Feasts and Labor Mobilization: Dissecting a Fundamental Economic Practice 240 Michael Dietler and Ingrid Herbich PART 2: ARCHAEOLOGICAL PERSPECTIVES 10 The Evolution of Ritual Feasting Systems in Prehispanic Philippine Chiefdoms 267 Laura Lee Junker 11 Feasting and the Emergence of Platform Mound Ceremonialism in Eastern North America 311 Vernon James Knight 12 A Case of Ritual Feasting at the Cahokia Site 334 Lucretia S. Kelly 13 Feasting on the Periphery:The Production of Ritual Feasting and Village Festivals at the Ceren Site, EI Salvador 368 Linda A. Brown 14 Feasting in the Ancient Near East 391 Denise Schmandt -Besserat 15 Garbage and the Modern American Feast 404 Douglas C. Wilson and William L. Rathje Index 423 vi III ustrations 2.1. Schema of feast types 38 2.2. Oversized food-preparation vessels in the household of a Yao village headman 48 2.3. Multiple outside hearths for a Hmong funeral 50 2.4. Multiple outside hearths for a Ta Oi marriage feast in Vietnam 51 2. 5. Closeup of the food-preparation area in Figure 2.4 52 2.6. Vietnamese lineage shrine used for lineage feasts 54 2.7. Water-buffalo horns from feasts displayed on a house 56 2.8. Pig mandibles on display in an Akha administrator's house 56 3.1. Luo communal beer drinking pot and beer fermentation pot 97 3.2. How beer is consumed from thago through a long vine-stem straw 98 3.3. An iconic representation of a Luo feast 99 3.4. A Luo woman engaged in dryingsinoho 100 4.1. Post-sweet potato nerworks of exchange. warfare. and ritual 122 4.2. N umber of pigs contributed by big-men in secular vs. sacred feasting 130 4.3. Schematic drawing of a Kepele cult site 134 5.1. The number of pigs that each clan in Sam Soong village owns 150 5.2. Elder lineage women and peer guests during an Akha marriage feast 152 5.3. Lineage elders. a Ritual Reciter. and the younger lineage host at a curing feast 154 5.4. Large cooking pots and woks 157 5.5. The multimodal size distribution of woks and pots in an Alilia village 159 6.1. The main ceremonial plaza on Hivaoa. Marquesas Islands 176 7.1. A potlatch at Alert Bay priorto 1914 186 8.1. Schema contrasting male-associated core with female-associated periphery 217 8.2. Schema contrasting friends, affines. and enemies 219 8.3. Conibo-Shipibo vessel forms 224 8.4. Artifacts associated with the ani shreati 226 8.5. Pottery vessels associated with the ani shrcati 227 8.6. Schema for marriage and sex 231 9.1. Schematic representation of Collective Work Events (CWEs) 242 9.2. Iron hoe blade from the precolonial era 250 9.3. Schematic links berween subsistence production, marriage, and iron production in Samia 252 9.4. Schematic representation of the role of work feasts in a multi-centric economy 253 10.1. Tenth-to nineteenth-century Philippine chiefdoms 269 vii fllustrarlOns 10.2. Faunal remains in household middens of elite and non-elite residences at Tanjay 287 10.3. Typical Chinese porcelain "serving" assemblages found at Philippine sites 290 10.4. Percentages of porcelain forms by weight in excavations of Tanjay and Cebu 291 10.5. Comparison of ceramic assemblages in elite vs. non-elite habitation zones 292 10.6. Characteristic "serving assemblages" from Philippine sites 294 I 0.7. Schema for relationships of expanded ritual feasting in Philippine chiefdoms 300 11.1. Truncated Mounds in the Eastern U.S .. 100 B.c.-700 A.D. 314 11.2. McKeithen Mound A, plan of features 316 11.3. Walling Platform Mound. plan of features 317 11.4. Cold Springs. plan of features 318 11.5. Cold Springs. cross-sections of large postholes 319 11.6. Garden Creek Mound No.2. plan of fearures 320 11.7. Timucuan method of smoking meat on a scaffold. sixteenth-century Florida 326 12.1. The American Bottom region 335 12.2. Late prehistoric chronology for the American Bottom 336 12.3. Site plan of central Cahokia 338 12.4. Portions of deer belonging to the high. mid. and low Food Utility Index (PUT) categories 341 12.5. A profile of one of the sub· Mound 51 excavation units 343 12.6. Change in percentage of NISP of deer at Cahokia 345 12.7. Summary of faunal materials from sub· Mound 51 pit 346 12.8. Zone D2 birds from sub· Mound 51 348 12.9. Zone D2 fish from sub· Mound 51 350 13.1. Map of western El Salvador 369 13.2. Site map for Ceren. El Salvador 371 13.3. Plan view of Structure 10 at Ceren. El Salvador 373 13.4. Artist's reconstruction of Structure 10 374 13.5. Household 1. Structure 10. and Structure 12 showing positions of metates 376 13.6. Women's work group using household space to grind corn for a ritual feast 379 14.1. Standard of Ur 393 14.2. Perforated plaque from Nippur 395 14.3. Perforated plaque from Khafaje 395 14.4. Perforated plaque from Khafaje 396 14.5. Seal impressions from Ur 396 14.6. Seal impression from unknown site 397 15 .1. A Marriott hotel advertisement for a restaurant feast 418 viii 2. 1. Archaeological Signatures of Feasts 40 4.1. The Social Components of Feasting and Corresponding Political Strategies 118 4.2. Chronological Scheme of Events Discussed in Text 120 4.3. The Six Stages of the Aeatee Cult of Central Enga and Its Relation to the Tee Cycle 135 5.1. Comparison of Rich and Poor Families 148 5.2. Akha Feast Types 153 6.1. Key Contrasts between Tikopia, Marquesas, and Hawaiian Case Studies 170 6.2. Principal Kinds of Feasts in Tikopia 171 6.3. Principal Kinds of Feasts in the Marquesas 174 7.1. Marriage Wealth Exchanges between Two High· Ranking Kwakiutl Families 208 8.1. Classification of the Conibo-Shipibo Ceramic Assemblages 225 8.2. Distribution of Beer and Nonbeer Vessels 228 8.3. Synopsis of Schematic Polarities: The COnibo-Shipibo Point of View 231 11.1. Truncated Mounds in the Eastern United States, 100 B.c.-700 A.D. 315 11.2. Associations of Certain Woodland Platform Mounds 322 15.1. Artifacts Related to a Thanksgiving Feast in Sample C45-120291 409 15.2. Artifacts Related to a Presidents' Day Feast in Sample C7022394 412 15.3. Artifacts Related to a Midweek Parry in Sample 1\7 ·031194 414 ix