Fashion’s Double: Representations of Fashion in Painting, Photography and Film PDF
Preview Fashion’s Double: Representations of Fashion in Painting, Photography and Film
FASHION ’S DOUBLE i Dress, Body, Culture Series Editor: J oanne B. Eicher, Regents’ Professor , University of Minnesota Advisory Board: Djurdja Bartlett , London College of Fashion , University of the Arts Pamela Church-Gibson , London College of Fashion , University of the Arts James Hall , University of Illinois at Chicago Vicki Karaminas , Massey University , Wellington Gwen O’Neal , University of North Carolina at Greensboro Ted Polhemus , Curator , “Street Style” Exhibition , Victoria and Albert Museum Valerie Steele , The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology Lou Taylor , University of Brighton Karen Tranberg Hansen , Northwestern University Ruth Barnes , A shmolean Museum , University of Oxford Books in this provocative series seek to articulate the connections between culture and dress, which is defi ned here in its broadest possible sense as any modifi cation or supplement to the body. Interdisciplinary in approach, the series highlights the dialogue between identity and dress, cosmetics, coiffure and body alternations as manifested in practices as varied as plastic surgery, tattooing, and ritual scarifi cation. The series aims, in particular, to analyse the meaning of dress in relation to popular culture and gender issues and will include works grounded in anthropology, sociology, history, art history, literature, and folklore. ISSN : 1360-466X Previously published in the Series Helen Bradley Foster , ‘New Raiments of Self’: African American Clothing in the Antebellum South Claudine Griggs , S/he: Changing Sex and Changing Clothes Michaele Thurgood Haynes , Dressing Up Debutantes: Pageantry and Glitz in Texas Anne Brydon and Sandra Niessen, Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body Dani Cavallaro and Alexandra Warwick , Fashioning the Frame: Boundaries, Dress and the Body Judith Perani and Norma H. Wolff , Cloth, Dress and Art Patronage in Africa Linda B. Arthur , Religion, Dress and the Body Paul Jobling , Fashion Spreads: Word and Image in Fashion Photography Fadwa El Guindi , Veil: Modesty, Privacy and Resistance Thomas S. Abler , Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic Uniforms Linda Welters , Folk Dress in Europe and Anatolia: Beliefs about Protection and Fertility Kim K.P. Johnson and Sharron J. Lennon , Appearance and Power Barbara Burman , The Culture of Sewing Annette Lynch , Dress, Gender and Cultural Change Antonia Young , Women Who Become Men David Muggleton , Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style Nicola White , Reconstructing Italian Fashion: America and the Development of the Italian Fashion Industry Brian J. McVeigh , Wearing Ideology: The Uniformity of Self-Presentation in Japan Shaun Cole , Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century Kate Ince , Orlan: Millennial Female Ali Guy , Eileen Green and Maura Banim , Through the Wardrobe: Women’s Relationships with their Clothes Linda B. Arthur , Undressing Religion: Commitment and Conversion from a Cross-Cultural Perspective William J.F. Keenan , Dressed to Impress: Looking the Part Joanne Entwistle and Elizabeth Wilson , Body Dressing Leigh Summers , Bound to Please: A History of the Victorian Corset Paul Hodkinson , Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture Leslie W. Rabine , The Global Circulation of African Fashion Michael Carter , Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes Sandra Niessen , Ann Marie Leshkowich and Carla Jones , Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress Kim K.P. Johnson , Susan J. Torntore and Joanne B. Eicher , Fashion Foundations: Early Writings on Fashion and Dress Helen Bradley Foster and Donald Clay Johnson , Wedding Dress Across Cultures Eugenia Paulicelli , Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt Charlotte Suthrell , Unzipping Gender: Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture Irene Guenther , Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich Yuniya Kawamura , The Japanese Revolution in Paris Fashion Patricia Calefato , The Clothed Body Ruth Barcan , Nudity: A Cultural Anatomy Samantha Holland , Alternative Femininities: Body, Age and Identity Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark , Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion Yuniya Kawamura , Fashion- ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies ii Regina A. Root , The Latin American Fashion Reader Linda Welters and Patricia A. Cunningham , Twentieth-Century American Fashion Jennifer Craik , Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression Alison L. Goodrum , The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalization Annette Lynch and Mitchell D. Strauss , Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning Catherine M. Roach , Stripping, Sex and Popular Culture Marybeth C. Stalp , Quilting: The Fabric of Everyday Life Jonathan S. Marion , Ballroom: Culture and Costume in Competitive Dance Dunja Brill , Goth Culture: Gender, Sexuality and Style Joanne Entwistle , The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion: Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling Juanjuan Wu , Chinese Fashion: From Mao to Now Annette Lynch , Porn Chic Brent Luvaas , DIY Style: Fashion, Music and Global Cultures Jianhua Zhao , The Chinese Fashion Industry Eric Silverman , A Cultural History of Jewish Dress Karen Hansen and D. Soyini Madison , African Dress: Fashion, Agency, Performance Maria Mellins , Vampire Culture Lynne Hume , The Religious Life of Dress Marie Riegels Melchior and Birgitta Svensson , Fashion and Museums Masafumi Monden , Japanese Fashion Cultures Alfonso McClendon , Fashion and Jazz Phyllis G. Tortora , Dress, Fashion and Technology Barbara Brownie and Danny Graydon , The Superhero Costume iii ‘ Fashion’s Double is an outstanding contribution to the fast growing fi eld of transdisciplinary literature on fashion theory. While the book deals primarily with fashion at the end of the twentieth century and into the new millennium it does offer a historical framework on the origins of fashion in the West. It is a clever, brilliantly researched book that draws on the politics of class, sociology and the histories of the image. Importantly, the writing is crisp and without jargon making it indispensable reading for scholars and fashionistas alike.’ BRAD BUCKLEY, P rofessor of Contemporary Art and Culture at The University of Sydney, Australia ‘An excellent study not only on fashion as visual culture, but also on what fashion reveals about the social and cognitive role of both representation and imagination. Painting, illustration, photography, cinema, as well as music, are the fi elds where fashion signs create our “double” world – t he world .’ PATRIZIA CALEFATO, A ssociate Professor at the Università degli Studi di Bari Aldo Moro, Italy ‘ Fashion’s Double is a welcome addition not only to the growing scholarship in the fi eld of Fashion Studies, but also to other fi elds such as Visual Culture, Film and Media Studies, Photography, Feminist and Gender Studies. The book shows clearly how different arts and media overlap in a complex circuit with the material and immaterial, yet connected, sides of fashion.’ EUGENIA PAULICELLI, P rofessor of Fashion Studies at Queens College and The Graduate Center, City University of New York, USA ‘Articulate, engaging and profound, F ashion’s Double is surely to be essential reading for all students and academics in the fi eld of cultural history of fashion. Exploring representations of fashion in painting, photography, fi lm and internet Geczy and Karaminas expertly navigate fashion’s ‘room of mirrors’. Thought- provoking historical case studies and subtle analysis of contemporary visual material make it a joy to read.’ OLGA VAINSHTEIN, S enior Researcher at the Russian State University for the Humanities, Russia ‘This is a fascinating and at times provocative intervention in the fi eld of fashion scholarship, constructed around a series of case studies which move in a historical arc from nineteenth-century portrait painting to online fashion fi lm. The book effectively underwrites the rationale for locating and studying fashion in the context both of the visual culture contemporary with it, and of other academic disciplines.’ PAMELA CHURCH GIBSON, R eader in Cultural and Historical Studies at London College of Fashion, UK iv FASHION ’S DOUBLE Representations of fashion in painting, photography and fi lm ADAM GECZY AND VICKI KARAMINAS Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc LONDON • OXFORD • NEW YORK • NEW DELHI • SYDNEY v Bloomsbury Academic An imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square 1385 Broadway London New York WC 1B 3 DP NY 10018 UK USA www.bloomsbury.com BLOOMSBURY and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published 2016 © Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas, 2016 Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Authors of this work. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publishers. No responsibility for loss caused to any individual or organization acting on or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication can be accepted by Bloomsbury or the author. British Library Cataloguing-i n-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloging-i n-Publication Data Geczy, Adam, author. Fashion’s double: representations of fashion in painting, photography and fi lm / by Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-85785-634-0 (hardback) — ISBN 978-0-85785-711-8 (paperback) 1. Fashion in art. 2. Fashion—Psychological aspects. 3. Fashion—Social aspects. I. Karaminas, Vicki, author. II . Title. NX 650.F37G43 2015 746.9ʹ2—dc23 2015020562 ISBN : HB : 978-0-8578-5634-0 PB : 978-0-8578-5711-8 e PDF : 978-1-4725-1929-0 ePub: 978-1-4725-1928-3 Typeset by Refi neCatch Limited, Bungay, Suffolk vi Dedicated to Dante, Julian, Justine, Marcel and Ulrika vii viii CONTENTS List of illustrations xi Acknowledgements xii Introduction: Doubling xiii 1 Painting fashion 1 Winterhalter and Worth 2 Academicians and Impressionists 5 John Singer Sargent’s M adame X 8 Fashion, painting and the fall of the old world order 13 2 The model image: From illustration to photograph 15 The transition from graphic imagery to photography 18 Edward Steichen and the birth of the fashion shoot 23 Fashion photographers in the fi rst half of the twentieth century 27 Adolph de Meyer 27 George Hoyningen-Huene and Horst 27 Cecil Beaton 30 Richard Avedon 32 Lee Miller 34 After the Second World War 35 3 The little black dress and Capitol Couture 43 The little black dress 45 Breakfast at Tiffany’s 48 That’s entertainment: T he Hunger Games and Capitol Couture 50 ix
The list of books you might like
