[email protected] www.avabooks.com AVA Academia’s Required Reading Range: JF www.avabooks.com [email protected] http://blog.avabooks.com Course Reader titles are designed to support oa http://blog.avabooks.com hs visual arts students throughout the lifetime nh of an undergraduate degree. Packed with Hio ‘ For a reader who is considering examples from students and professionals on this career path or beginning and fully illustrated with clear diagrams and pk D e their coursework, the text gives inspiring imagery, they offer an essential i ns a very clear and comprehensive exploration of the subject. si g understanding of fashion design. n It’s excellent at covering the Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is an : primary areas of the fashion essential reference text for fashion design T h design industry.’ students and anyone interested in fashion e design. This comprehensive guide covers the C Steven Faerm, Assistant historical and theoretical background of fashion, o Professor at Parsons m The New School for Design before taking a practical look at more advanced p approaches to fashion drawing, working with l e colour media and computer-aided design. It t e examines the research process, how to work with Other AVA titles of interest sketchbooks to develop and evaluate creative G Publisher’s note u Other titles in AVA’s ideas and how to build a collection, from pattern i Ethical practice is well known, d to prototype. Fashion range include: e taught and discussed in the Understanding the international fashion market domains of medicine, law, science The Fundamentals of Fashion Design ge and its seasonal nature is considered in a ge and sociology but was, until n professional context. The different jobs within n recently, rarely discussed in terms Basics Fashion Design 01: Ra the fashion industry are examined in detail, Ra of the Applied Visual Arts. Yet Research and Design along with practical career advice, such as how design is becoming an increasingly g g Basics Fashion Design 02: n to interpret and understand a design brief and n integral part of our everyday lives Textiles and Fashion dier prepare a fashion portfolio. In addition, there are dier and its infl uence on our society ad a series of interviews with design professionals, ad ever-more prevalent. e e Basics Fashion Design 03: Rea each providing a valuable insight into the dynamic FASHION Rea AVA Publishing believes that our Construction d R world of fashion. d R world needs integrity; that the e e Basics Fashion Design 04: e e ramifi cations of our actions upon r r is is Developing a Collection ur DESIGN ur others should be for the greatest qu qu happiness and benefi t of the Basics Fashion Design 05: eo eo RC RC greatest number. We do not set Fashion Drawing ourselves out as arbiters of what is Basics Fashion Design 06: CR ‘good’ or ‘bad’, but aim to promote oe Knitwear discussion in an organised fashion uq ru for an individual’s understanding Basics Fashion Design 07: si er of their own ethical inclination. Menswear e Rd John Hopkins worked as a womenswear Basics Fashion Design 08: e R designer at Jaeger and Burberry for over ten a Styling de years. His teaching career began in the United a e Basics Fashion Design 09: States, where he served as Chair of Fashion rd i Fashion Jewelry at Savannah College of Art and Design, before n g taking up his current position as head of Fashion The Fundamentals of R and Textiles at Winchester School of Art, UK. Fashion Management a John is the author of Fashion Drawing and n g Basics Fashion Management 01: Menswear in AVA’s Basics Fashion Design series. e THE JOHN HOPKINS Concept to Customer (UK) Fashion Merchandising (US) COMPLETE GUIDE 9 782940 411528 US$52.50 JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) CCCCoooovvvveeeerrrr____00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 1111 US PPaaggee::ccoovveerr 9999////2255////11111111 11111111::::44556666 AAAAMMMM e g n a R g n i dr e a d e a R e dR e e r is ur qu eo RC JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 1111 PPaaggee::11 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55556666 AAAAMMMM AN AVA BOOK Published by AVA Publishing SA Rue des Fontenailles 16 Case Postale 1000 Lausanne 6 Switzerland Tel: +41 786 005 109 Email: [email protected] Distributed by Thames & Hudson (ex-North America) 181a High Holborn London WC1V 7QX United Kingdom Tel: +44 20 7845 5000 Fax: +44 20 7845 5055 Email: [email protected] www.thamesandhudson.com Distributed in the USA & Canada by: Ingram Publisher Services Inc. 1 Ingram Blvd. La Vergne TN 37086 USA Tel: +1 866 400 5351 Fax: +1 800 838 1149 Email: [email protected] English Language Support Offi ce AVA Publishing (UK) Ltd. Tel: +44 1903 204 455 Email: [email protected] © AVA Publishing SA 2012 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission of the copyright holder. ISBN 978-2-940411-52-8 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hopkins, John. Fashion Design: The Complete Guide / John Hopkins p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN: 9782940411528 (pbk.:alk.paper) eISBN: 9782940447220 1.Fashion design.2.Fashion design--Study and teaching. TT508 .H665 2011 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Design by Alexander Boxill www.alexanderboxill.com Production by AVA Book Production Pte. Ltd., Singapore Tel: +65 6334 8173 Fax: +65 6259 9830 Email: [email protected] All reasonable attempts have been made to trace, clear and credit the copyright holders of the images reproduced in this book. However, if any credits have been inadvertently omitted, the publisher will endeavour to incorporate amendments in future editions. JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111..__iinnccdd22..ddiinn dd 22dd 22 PPaaggee::22 119900////5522//6611//1111 11 11 1144::::55556644 AAPPMMMM e g n a R g n i dr e a d e FASHION a R e dR e e r is DESIGN ur qu eo RC THE JOHN HOPKINS COMPLETE GUIDE JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 3333 PPaaggee::33 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55556666 AAAAMMMM 004 006 008 042 076 108 INTRODUCTION 1.0 FASHION 2.0 THE 3.0 COLOUR 4.0 CONCEPT IN FASHION AND TO CONTEXT FIGURE FABRICS PROTOTYPE 010 044 078 110 1.1 Defi ning fashion 2.1 Drawing media 3.1 Colour theory 4.1 The fashion studio for fashion 018 048 084 112 1.2 The fashion system 2.2 Understanding 3.2 Colour palettes 4.2 Sizing and the fashion fi gure measurements 030 060 088 114 1.3 Fashion capitals 2.3 Technical drawings 3.3 Fibres 4.3 Pattern making 034 062 092 118 1.4 Global culture 2.4 Fashion illustration 3.4 Fashion fabrics 4.4 Draping 036 066 096 120 1.5 Q&A 2.5 CAD for fashion 3.5 Designing for fabrics 4.5 Sewing Lee Lapthorne 040 070 102 124 1.6 Discussion questions 2.6 Q&A 3.6 Q&A 4.6 The toile Activities Daria Lipatova Lauretta Roberts Further reading 074 106 126 2.7 Discussion questions 3.7 Discussion questions 4.7 Fittings and fi nishings Activities Activities Further reading Further reading 132 4.8 The prototype sample 134 4.9 Q&A Maggie Norris 138 4.10 Discussion questions Activities Further reading JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 4444 PPaaggee::44 9999////5555////11111111 11112222::::44444444 PPPPMMMM 005 140 172 202 204 TABLE 5.0 DEVELOPING 6.0 PORTFOLIO CONCLUSION APPENDIX OF A AND CONTENTS COLLECTION PROFESSIONAL PRACTICE 142 174 205 5.1 Defi ning a collection 6.1 Fashion portfolios Index 144 176 207 5.2 Research process 6.2 Personal promotion Acknowledgements 152 182 208 5.3 Working with 6.3 Career opportunities Credits sketchbooks 154 196 5.4 Line planning and 6.4 Q&A range building Marcella L 158 200 5.5 Costing and pricing 6.5 Discussion questions Activities Further reading 162 5.6 Presenting a collection 166 5.7 Q&A Damian Shaw 170 5.8 Discussion questions Activities Further reading JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 5555 PPaaggee::55 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55556666 AAAAMMMM 006 INTRODUCTION JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 6666 PPaaggee::66 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55556666 AAAAMMMM 007 Fashion Design: The Complete Guide Each chapter opens with a set of INTRODUCTION presents an illustrated view of fashion objectives and concludes with discussion design with contexts and defi nitions, questions and suggested activities. relevant areas of design practice and It is hoped that these will encourage associated career opportunities. critical analysis and foster debate in relation to chapter content. In addition, Fashion can be a notoriously diffi cult each chapter includes a list of further subject to contain, both from an resources, which acknowledges some academic point of view and in terms of of the contributions already made to the its changing nature as part of popular broad, yet often specialist areas covered culture and contemporary media. The by fashion design, with the opportunity to primary aim of this book is to offer extend your personal research or critical current perspectives and insights into the enquiry through supplementary reading. working processes and inter-relationships that exist across the international fashion Whether you intend to embark on a career design industry. In keeping with this as a fashion designer or extend your outward-facing ethos, the book includes personal knowledge of the subject, it is interviews and contributions from hoped that this book will promote and selected practitioners, design students enhance your understanding of fashion and industry professionals, spanning design. It is a multifaceted discipline centres of fashion across London, Paris that is capable of accommodating a and New York. diversity of thinking and practices linked to aesthetic, industrial, economic and This book is designed to assist fashion cultural activities and aspirations. design students and those aspiring to work in the fashion industry to gain an understanding of the key functions and processes that directly and, sometimes indirectly, inform the critical path from a concept or design theme through to the development and realization of a prototype sample, line or collection. The book is written from a practice-based viewpoint and showcases original artwork and images from a variety of studios. JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000001111----000000007777 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 7777 PPaaggee::77 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55556666 AAAAMMMM 008 1.0 FASHION IN CONTEXT OBJECTIVES To introduce a range of contexts and defi nitions for fashion To appreciate different product classifi cations applicable to fashion design To consider fashion cycles in relation to seasonal and evolutionary infl uences To understand the historical context and emergence of fashion capitals To recognize the diversity of the international fashion calendar To begin to critically evaluate fashion in the context of wider media infl uences 01 FASHION EDITORIAL Advertising campaigns and editorial photoshoots continue to offer inspiring and sometimes challenging representations of fashion. Credit: Anne Combaz for Ponytail magazine JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000008888----000044441111 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 8888 PPaaggee::88 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55558888 AAAAMMMM 009 01 1.0 FASHION IN CONTEXT 1.1 Defi ning fashion 1.2 The fashion system 1.3 Fashion capitals 1.4 Global culture 1.5 Q&A Lee Lapthorne 1.6 Discussion questions Activities Further reading JJoobb:: 0033005511 TTiittllee:: FFaasshhiioonn DDEEssiiggnn--TThhee CCoommpplleettee GGuuiiddee ((AAVVAA)) 000000008888----000044441111 00003333000055551111....iiiinnnndddddddd 9999 PPaaggee::99 9999////5555////11111111 11111111::::55558888 AAAAMMMM
Description: