Fashion and art

259 Pages·2012·2.992 MB·English

by  Karaminas, Vicki, Geczy, Adam

Fashion and Art
“Finally a book on the complex relationship between art and fashion adopts a different
approach. Instead of the usual attempts to decide where the boundary lines might be
drawn, this anthology examines the areas where art and fashion meet. These essays
are not only vital for scholars and students within both disciplines—for anyone and
everyone, this is a highly enjoyable book.”
—Pamela Church Gibson, Reader in Cultural and Historical Studies, London College
of Fashion, University of the Arts, London
“A book that both traces, and participates in, the decay of the idea that Fashion is
the superficial Other of Art. Between the covers of this book lies all the evidence one
might need about the sustained collaboration between modernist artists and fashion
designers. Through a wealth of historical detail and conceptual sophistication this
book tells a fascinating story whose relevance will lie far beyond Fashion Studies.”
—Michael Carter, author of Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes
“There have been previous books written on Fashion and Art, but none is of this stan-
dard. In its reach and sophistication, this book is a stand-alone in its field. For many
years, fashion and art have been points of discussion and debate, and the subject
of isolated disciplinary studies. Geczy and Karaminas and the key authors assem-
bled here have done us a great service in elevating this topic to an area of serious
interdisciplinary study, giving it coherence and circumscription. Fashion and Art is a
landmark book for whose appearance couldn’t be more timely.”
—Joseph H. Hancock II, Drexel University, Philadelphia
“A much awaited and exciting collection... bringing together some of the most promi-
nent scholars and curators working within fashion (studies) and art (history), Fashion
and Art boldly problematizes the conflicting, yet symbiotic relations between art and
fashion.”
—Louise Wallenberg, Director, Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University
“Using thickly described and critically analyzed case materials, the authors in this
edited volume break new ground in the ongoing debate regarding fashion and art.
From euromodernities to contemporary, global “fashionscapes,” this volume sheds
refreshing light on the ambiguities, anxieties, and aesthetic pleasures associated
with the fashion—art relationship.”
—Susan B. Kaiser, Chair of the Division of Textiles and Clothing at
the University of California, Davis
Fashion and Art
Edited by
Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
London • New York
English edition
First published in 2012 by
Berg
Editorial offices:
50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK
175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, USA
© Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas 2012
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
or by any means without the written permission of Berg.
Berg is an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
PDF ISB N 978 0 85785 213 7
ISBN 978 1 84788 784 9 (Cloth)
978 1 84788 783 2 (Paper)
e -IS B N 978 0 85785 213 7 (Institutional)
978 0 85785 214 4 (Individual)
www.bergpublishers.com
To Julian, Michelle, and Dante.
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Contents
List of Plates ix
Acknowledgments xi
List of Contributors xiii
Fashion and Art: Critical Crossovers 1
Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas
1 Fashion 13
Valerie Steele
2 Art 29
Nancy J. Troy
3 Aesthetics 43
Llewellyn Negrin
4 Modernity 55
Adam Geczy
5 Conceptual Fashion 67
Hazel Clark
6 Body 77
Joanne B. Eicher
7 Beauty 87
Morag Martin
8 Boundaries 99
Diana Crane
9 Authenticity 111
Efrat Tseëlon
10 Performance 123
Herbert Blau
– vii –
viii CONTENTS
11 Dressing Up 135
Mary Gluck
12 Clothing 145
Margaret Maynard
13 Patronage 155
Nicky Ryan
14 Painting 169
Aileen Ribeiro
15 Image 177
Vicki Karaminas
16 Exhibition 189
Alistair O’Neill
17 Curating an Exhibition 201
Barbara Heinemann
Plates
1 Caricature of Charles Frederick Worth.
2 “Coco Chanel.”
3 Yves Saint Laurent. Mondrian dress, 1965.
4 Epsie Kinard, “Designers Borrow Ideas from Abstract Art.”
5 Sally Stuart, “Boston Fine Arts Seen Influencing New Fashions.”
6 Jacques-Louis David (1748–1825). Habit de Législateur, Project
de Costume civique 1793.
7 “Charles Frederick Worth.”
8 Shelley Fox. The Fat Map collection. Warp Factor 09 at the Tokyo
Design Centre, Japan, 2009.
9 Slow and Steady Wins the Race. Bags collection. Hardware Bag, 2002.
10 Ma Ke. Wuyong collection. Fashion in Motion, Victoria and Albert
Museum, London, 2008.
11 John Singer Sargent (1856–1925). Fumee d’Ambre Gris, 1880.
12 Alexander McQueen (British, 1969–2010). Oyster dress.
Spring/Summer 2003.
13 Pierre Narcisse Guérin (1774–1833). Bust of a Young Girl.
14 Thomas Gainsborough. Grace Dalrymple Elliott, ca. 1782.
15 Paco Rabanne. Dress made of hammered metal, 1968.
16 Elsa Schiaparelli. Tear Dress, 1937.
17 John Galliano. Dress for a fashion show, 1992.
18 Mariano Fortuny. Delphos tunic, 1909.
– ix –