Table Of Content

Rebecca Arnold Fashion A Very Short Introduction 3 3 GreatClarendonStreet,Oxfordox26dp OxfordUniversityPressisadepartmentoftheUniversityofOxford. ItfurtherstheUniversity’sobjectiveofexcellenceinresearch,scholarship, andeducationbypublishingworldwidein Oxford NewYork Auckland CapeTown DaresSalaam HongKong Karachi KualaLumpur Madrid Melbourne MexicoCity Nairobi NewDelhi Shanghai Taipei Toronto Withofﬁcesin Argentina Austria Brazil Chile CzechRepublic France Greece Guatemala Hungary Italy Japan Poland Portugal Singapore SouthKorea Switzerland Thailand Turkey Ukraine Vietnam OxfordisaregisteredtrademarkofOxfordUniversityPress intheUKandincertainothercountries PublishedintheUnitedStates byOxfordUniversityPressInc.,NewYork #RebeccaArnold2009 Themoralrightsoftheauthorhavebeenasserted DatabaserightOxfordUniversityPress(maker) Firstpublished2009 Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced, storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans, withoutthepriorpermissioninwritingofOxfordUniversityPress, orasexpresslypermittedbylaw,orundertermsagreedwiththeappropriate reprographicsrightsorganization.Enquiriesconcerningreproduction outsidethescopeoftheaboveshouldbesenttotheRightsDepartment, OxfordUniversityPress,attheaddressabove Youmustnotcirculatethisbookinanyotherbindingorcover andyoumustimposethesameconditiononanyacquirer BritishLibraryCataloguinginPublicationData Dataavailable LibraryofCongressCataloginginPublicationData Dataavailable TypesetbySPIPublisherServices,Pondicherry,India PrintedinGreatBritainby AshfordColourPressLtd,Gosport,Hampshire ISBN 978–0–19–954790–6 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 For Adrian This page intentionally left blank Contents Acknowledgements xi Listofillustrations xiii Introduction 1 1 Designers 8 2 Art 29 3 Industry 48 4 Shopping 67 5 Ethics 85 6 Globalization 105 Conclusion 124 References 129 Furtherreading 135 Index 139 This page intentionally left blank Acknowledgements IwouldliketothankAndreaKeegan,myeditoratOxford UniversityPress,forhersupportandencouragementofthis project.Thankstoallmycolleaguesandthestudentsofthe HistoryofDesignDepartmentattheRoyalCollegeofArt inLondon.IamindebtedtoCarolineEvansforherexcellent advice,andtoCharlotteAshbyandBeatriceBehlenfortheir thoughtfulcommentsondrafts.ThankyoutoAlison Toplis,JudithClark,andElizabethCurriefortheirhelpful suggestions.Andﬁnally,thankstomyfamily,andto AdrianGarveyforeverything. This page intentionally left blank List of illustrations 1 MalignMusestableau,Mode 7 Pierre–LouisPierson, Museum,Antwerp 2 CountessCastiglione, CourtesyofModeMuseum,Antwerp c.1863–66 39 #TheMetropolitanMuseum 2 Chanelcoutureshow,spring ofArt,NewYork/Scala,Florence 2008 9 8 Prada’sWaistDown: #PatrickKovarik/AFP/GettyImages MiucciaPrada,Artand 3 GeorgesLepape,PaulPoiret Creativityexhibition 46 fashionillustration,1911 16 #MarioAnzuoni/Reuters/Corbis V&AImages,TheVictoriaandAlbert 9 StillfromBirthofa Museum Dress,1954 49 4 HediSlimaneforDior BFICollections Hommespring2005 25 10 ‘AscensiondeMadame CourtesyofChristianDior Garnerin,le28mars 5 JapaneseHarajukustreet 1802’ 63 fashion 27 CourtesyoftheLibraryofCongress #JerryDriendl/TaxiJapan/ 11 ToniFrissell,February GettyImages 1947 65 6 AndyWarhol,DiamondDust CourtesyoftheLibraryofCongress Shoes,1980–1 30 12 CommedesGar¸cons #TheAndyWarholFoundationfor guerrillastorein theVisualArts,Inc./ARS,NewYork/ DACS,London2009.Photo:#Art Warsaw,2008 68 Resource,NewYork CourtesyofCommedesGar¸consSAS