EYEWITNESS TRAVEL POLAND EYEWITNESS TRAVEL POLAND Main Contributors Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer Małgorzata Omilanowska Jerzy S. Majewski Contents Produced By Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw Contributors Małgorzata Omilanowska, Jerzy S. Majewski Illustrators Andrzej Wielgosz, Bohdan Wróblewski, Piotr Zubrzycki, Paweł Mistewicz Photographers Krzysztof Chojnacki; Wojciech Czerniewicz, Stanisława Jabłońska, Piotr Jamski, Euzebiusz Niemiec Cartographers Ewa i Jan Pachniewiczowie, Maria Wojciechowska, Dariusz Osuch (D. Osuch i spółka) Editor Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer Dtp Designers Paweł Kamiński, Paweł Pasternak Proofreader Bożena Leszkowicz Technical Editor Anna Kożurno-Królikowska The twin-towered basilica in Czerwińsk Designer Ewa Roguska i zespół on the Vistula (see p120) Cover Design Paweł Kamiński Translators Mark Cole, Marian Dragon, Teresa Levitt, Joanna Pillans, Vera Rich Introducing Edited and typeset by Book Creation Services Ltd, London Poland Printed in Malaysia First American Edition, 2001 How to Use this Guide 6 15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Discovering Poland 10 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Putting Poland Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015 on the Map 16 Copyright © 2001, 2015 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company A Portrait of Poland 18 All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, Poland Through mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. the Year 38 Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. The History of Poland 42 ISSN 1542-1554 Warsaw ISBN 978-1-46542-822-6 Throughout this book, floors are numbered in accordance with local Polish usage; Area By Area ie. the “first” floor is the floor above ground level. Warsaw at a Glance 64 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Traditional windmills in a typical Front cover main image: Wilanów Palace, on the outskirts of Warsaw Wielkopolska landscape Solina Lake in the Bieszczady Mountains The Old and New Towns 66 The Royal Route 78 The City Centre 88 Further Afield 98 Warsaw Street Finder Pastel-coloured arcaded houses along the Market Square in Jelenia Góra (see p190) 104–109 Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide Where to Practical Stay 298 Information 334 Where to Travel Information 344 Eat and Drink 306 Index 354 Shopping in Poland 320 Phrase Book 374 Entertainment in Road Map Poland 326 of Poland The magnificent White Staircase in Kozłówka Palace (see p128) Poland Region by Region Poland at a Glance 112 Mazovia and the Lublin Region 114 Krakow 132 Małopolska (Lesser Poland) 152 Silesia 180 Wielkopolska (Greater Poland) 212 Gdańsk 236 Pomerania 256 Warmia, Mazuria and Cathedral of St John, Białystok Region 280 in Warsaw (see p72) 6 (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE The detailed information and tips given in maps, photographs and illustrations. this guide will help you to get the most out Restaurant and hotel recommendations can of your visit to Poland. Introducing Poland be found in the Travellers’ Needs section, maps the country and sets it in its historical together with information about shopping and cultural context. First is an area-by-area and entertainment. The Survival Guide chapter on Warsaw, followed by eight has tips on everything from transport to regional chapters, including Krakow and making a phone call, as well as other Gdańsk. Main sights are described using practical matters. Poland Area by Area POLAND REGION BY REGION (cid:2) 115 Each area can be easily Poland has been divided MAZOVIA AND THE identified by its colour-coded LUBLIN REGION thumb tab. into six main areas, each ocWonaleors uiadrwe cn,o Ktdirfaeiek; doth wbey ac inittsdi eo sw onf IrsvbTanotanhoa altderlnhdde hdBesye i as rwilnnl lrwyaooi n inLqshsddtuouea blretblaehgl teia rinistcoroww c rnulheoie,gf igwteath iennrol aictd vnthnteh u medhrer s afe el iPasf.eal onolmddldweosassw,.nc lFaaiysnonp seredet xscr ct oeeohetfnfc el Mtlwh eue anirtanizotes od testevs,xh wriPaaenome, eSdspdpalltaangl ewvsdeosiie y lonol owfifc wRa pesse ntohapeisl seasn. ce 1ITnhtirso sdeuctcitoino nd escribes the Goccothoowfd evdtanhseeńe erscs .aihk csOr a oeaanpula sg tnstoee.ht rArnhesyl ea la i srnvtnahhesdloi edtm w hcemoaei nfpliororgo su t n rt FadlNtuPodpyKoStKbahhoenirrinffeureanMgni aeeeardnMtveirtdi gktsh riisacenc Chenosoesemadezele. doog nor wczioo onM nvl ummo Msopawvfmtt ef. ntvha nsueiltIdemoiauitinzhde edotra’ ol seohiMasW ie o me ttdIfacnzvn cI shsntICaPkaraiicu idh,veaVei cwzoomroenMli e saa oatso wledmedauIa sslieva sfloa aw (aenary itbzom9triaanl ,apsndolth m,yf6ln yo ht ioet ivo et3edn ni tno oMhnnipn fho– ai cMe o svMe dwreP9ef 1iot iewf d oeoxnaTi2 e5aernpdtdiwznplfac)tzh2saac .r ohl esot tcot6eleTeonteht,hwnes virs h h dbvna,ePAaeN eii ief acea,foetco oo gntalcea a.nnee tePlfrecttaalndh de a lirrrTensipyon idi nss w btnic ieiinistnohP n tteuc ei1 aoa sttohfe wil. or1 1 ul p ta lfal Iudi35yr otnaas sto 8r9eshhfw ld4a im ,6at e 0elaytl, 0 r yhs pytwoWaemMpRwfcdorheulvunfeoaoATwiaaa oeoetlrmls mlhstzihrftit dasnmguttsr ho er iieeayo ea ahhcreMe vtasnregwLrfnaotut i nn.uatsbfuitbal d,omuhlhIir - byzraoteutauagnlenesoh nlbennryalt ie eebvenaaoCknCl csdneid.ir nsa, n wt oaot caI tm ic tnondc,o vrtnhnrh nmaoyieo w e fongpig1ein . ta nt otodt rneE9 rlyt h baLeh ebfadrecve1Ps uneeosseKge etitso8osfs bnu t atV ernfc, rd shf, eeolKirez its o einalas Mrtcnhif iablmstenobnn glaeV es u oanrjsdnguc.dinei eileerzewe.oadaid t wngol,trAnr . tynsohhvbf ziv e,Pnaopcis a mionuiilDsoraiaanna tdml i ipi leri,ltso vh( asedftthu 1e osel h tnarainefen8th nar rrevadevpy moe1bdegsen .a,ieea 5mdt les ddeyy ta ) er ta ,dl s s eyn,nt t do f cedctoheae ncavohrteffau leaocrrritpee etmsahr ,aae ehnn nviddgtis howihtlvoiihsgertah rott totr iihyndt eghao y afi .ts s interesting places to visit are located on the Regional Map in each chapter. 116 (cid:2) POLAND REGION BY REGION MAZOVIA AND THE LUBLIN REGION (cid:2) 117 2Ti1F1Rn∑TobphctM(B1PstpMIia athaPN1K1RtK t(Cstrnmn11ehhhhhhhoeeen rhaoo818uuoinoolee hepePne190ra maaATeeeeeeearna332tdil bpstsłu w uł ohscai n17zztegputhhoPt irdstncr184t8 sCis1nliio ahso.aorooe-ncR l19escnlacuiec cdee .temck o)–eovkCaFt 5imgłrle łcdvvTniwiaaaauud–l–,Surkinve ser aaooh naatnc7rsttgt1blotPhiii l uiu11elroaal aawyshsoeaak,hhsatat.mf o tlnaa e2 euło(cid:2)es t ,irlfrpn91rnsrur.mH.nrasoe iroovlrc n, weogu styii bgtces i mfeU.)0 lnIctnloNrr hlhNeeg cqDrnrr ueff hoIy di leead FaR k hePIdso2 cna eaeecgwtkn1nl rotetu3ifePnr nynliWyu cin haoalc )e fhehr , td Ron1 d. 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EDRAKLARND.Y A. HLKOANRDAD. B. KOMAdMIirNoucchsKee-suAamn 5STthries egti-vbeys -aS tbrierde’ts -Meyaep v iew of the key areas of interest in the ŚW, JADWIGI MJoohnnu Nmeepnotm tou kSt mpdehasoicntro itbgoirwnagpn hst hsa ena ndsid gc hictatiesp.st wioinths oTr.ehnse tCPo ihinraeutsderer caikohf tr( e oKorfo f W Sśthcto ieMról dcła h NWruyMar c rPh I I n.waa Ps iasku) K ey Suggested route ATWrehrbrceouh crieblłtas iwisindh ew1on7pac9s’es 2o Poinnafc ltteahh cetehe aNer cechohb-aCipslhtaesorsphicsoa uol sfs ety. lIet .was Thset.y clea sCto hfanreto dhimtrsea dtdlo rpiwfarfelee orsreesfn nSwttt sep Jraeoe rc hiaoonddm dstbhe. Tdienh iaBent a is1opp9nti9ri eos1stf. For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp314–16 Stars indicate the sights that A suggested route for a walk covers no visitor should miss. the more interesting streets in the area. 138 (cid:2) POLAND REGION BY REGION KRAKOW (cid:2) 139 6 TahpaflPiMnnrhohiaestaderooet kjocsr rtosfepeoura rSisw gltcca attaS irairinlbwnateiirthgsupsg ia ge hoihh iylfnisdtifevssg sfa ietaohhon hvntlrirguiaegmg rtsir hhlewme,aa tlcmsb itotago.ihlo jaehnfoenup,ts r d a ls ttlamer nhopbutdaeufaco i lsngttumsieh aoettuhoe tsntiam.rsro seTtat n so nhial.asof er l er e TMtBvttepwawBTid3noohhanehaaur oiatw eeisutrr ersih eirorhll ai gCl ydemkpievtxiqa cnm isireiac1mtunhcn i nblhwsedo6kep gegi ttypd-frti aadho P ) 1oha-bFtgau s1 seowi5rwn.ior eoia 8n nrTthAttnTRdnHahngctnsmrhh. oohhgGathos ec aeeatuo t ect le ec r ty chenj blH Cru pffmhns eccelaa rnse yucmehohsaoaiinnmmol onos jui rlifłucntmdulCptlcr TPr uboTmttoaPuhiay 1hrnehoesa ioruraclmp nłbomr a t3daoyeo l tubwtwi–sheycl.scyh p i a5f ntenHn re,eh httT aiei od, aefed5ohrs fttgaors,e shauri c r hedilen, m fash n osj.a sbopmaitn ob d eiSresSohdn tdssuefaceauo up htrtte.i gcdiu łoo i llmn wl tele wtmt stMiiiiar nhosnd vt edtd,eewl hoi eavtenepct,acazra Mii. rianidaoo li er lbonnmtlel W lyly os tnrnyl rub h k . –wt aws(tea aKe aa wooedsen ion nirfe rtlrśu ei s Kltcc n yhHMeriaóntaea,iti lłkirl nl a .o n fcwwoera msPT moahdfias aod l vaRear egbnTcneyoihras u cG ieisanici bs ol iafaaofivnibnrrxagcio1e uCnbeeu5 mni ey bcttsi. x h,sho1aV Miac-un5rne mcuaiC5r idutcertl2rhipp hmsanuS.et,t l tctoe uuoin frorsieexysf. Tl(I1.at3h4 r6wTPp@vO2OSVg7i su prAlrppf7a.eIa antmpMSls–ee s)nc11t) to.nn8I awcat s,2 S &TiGl9r 3par4uyc1fiirp,aO.rd,ooap n1o 7vc1 ile:rt)tm^3,ekRe 5. htyI 8i0And2ac cSi,51aVec ,lnef h 1t.bmn1∑’3io a s d8aT to:0Ciyrr–5rte,–l p m4aot 1f02 VHl6 ant i,rm a3 V4e1sphea4crm’.Ec e2pem2atiemtei 4Ciri 4o edt wSio, d2a n(Kcat5Sf4a2oco ieGswa0VltiL k2tyrlr0so 2oeyaiol–i Ins5td.(.fi iu sShcn(t2 dt fii’ ns2)oisepnorsSTc do 1d wh mtm 1 o-m.1 i g1 mgs3 l s 7aham:0 sd.s e SB7@vTstcośoUioarrpB6uvT(LWSwwtWtPrdaasa1bsGeeehahttqwu0elnerpohyhonfnleaa .laoe ldstisb yła ceieumkuRnieldweldaicpraS.,c ipndurmasus 12 1oPMte nuat apnoaaed tF t caeieep hn,2,ioTMailifndlr ru n pte–idcńsrtl drtr4u3 yF4.ansllhlgciioeydWzne e ae- 3tddruats,,sske,odIi arli er )gh dep ywnpr79t htsaodi.1kłńna-ilnic mdwldaaifi s.∑ine a,,am tig5So aia cTr inbdsiiooco 1t1r wTłiisaefsrgi2głpoaoacorknlnohnssrao4 cl0a rha fthrd,rMe eanoazsil iw nn rwa ,M,wvtn eela4t,asK –itfeole a cl1i1qgld)noeo)y 2osefl hKis b krs aa onm8a 3,oSwsfi( wn u4t ig kmCrarsn .reSKwlrcdm.n,eb i socfiar a,–ya zde n1ss iyooahez aomt5n utScFel to1ik y4kw9snhem dgnt s s0ifhur śtitointono.s,9-fa i ,e r l2Stae nie cedu Ti2edrtt(ivMuatf tst,nv.tntsc mw e i 2 ij.oh hpiei yór to tf.itjietndhl.miHkaasinh w ee ssadikc.łO1Bakir r un iłntieec r1 ea2egaceYti upeia ie Aa 9 kondwo annTiwm4eri ldlolph0 iertn2 unStdero b e awg4oio2oodd dno irts1ylc n.l.so a7e lpi gn 5 IyJotebsg5ftmctl ót soh y yo 4 - zl s 7kcre ,e. fn turyO18uTiefotfotdBwsaatwulapNi2cithbhtFbbi tu5otKsis asonnsrhhhhhhhBtc5lnd hilha0n0ffnooafncuo uyu . tcreenah ar o 2beeeuTeepeeBtretdvve0wttttGu dwimvthr guiismo:,eebeMgBhh n hb hhllal y iaani te 1cc F5caprdtefsearnseBan-ise crnhi heeeic n ree c0u0AgiileiecqrABezacr’n1tncbia lgrtoaoaslqt m h :tn2glt mceuannctn3ytaaic1sGnoiaur e2sngeeorsder nnuc.hrhe nt0drgu r,s br tnitwtir5 o8fwnvao aaitwwertotes aouwenb iisateor ese o muosbohptitnwt5rrr,uoet wnai namc jua nl e hhsn ihqneaeolli ouennfasncaam in.a tyynnalM nvevtc eouse i.ea3d–rTe oufeGtritrftriwt snoc n 1dt e ea e e tTcehe d,l6 1styyhfdem mWK. bW feooyey 1eNa rd(4 9hi lso r l phan.Teit 3tns(lsee bea trr u’sn,tdr9.nspnas11iBhhT emloreiioie ahhłea neta1atm sdlrw m iau eit2tt1c A0ah1aien hseek.dnnle.ru4ee pb,crhitu c d t icAre8osisd Ir r4o9yua 1 M,edta lc epa tpzttto tyl besrbtscT iyodo 1a27 neeca ebcort wi3n loetsyf i4q aorelpsnsseio8ec2aiyohe aneoe l9oadlnu .d en,w 7fpwgykł u .uwwf ma kin’rgsnnr an ndpeMsd9u sdu. .tnrdsO) oit ci oteatatats 1a.s&w,8riTtthc gustaha buea mrhegeinoaietopn.rurnkoangi uc4i hde ises7nigmeumeTdrblovs e nnnnceuinrdrt)sesJ9 rs ke7e ci ohee psci bhyf nlptyaeaiitgwn w a c .B8e bydi nc t w rtsu..t1.eutcuh g@n uo resl ndAi–na hitiy hiTga Ahn io 8tro enl uieoddfivtp9ee ltee hsyel ig et8tf v nrdtg c a r ,dd, ł il1e e – da0łn eh t e o 2 le, 4 , visitor should miss. For hotels and restaurants see pp303–4 and pp313–14