Extreme makeover : techniques for digital glamour photography

2010·7.2 MB·English

by  D, Jerry

M E
E X T R E
JERRY D’S
MAKEOVER TECHNIQUES
FOR DIGITAL GLAMOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
BILL HURTER
Amherst Media
®
PUBLISHEROFPHOTOGRAPHYBOOKS

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Allrightsreserved.
Allphotographsbytheauthorunlessotherwisenoted.
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AssistantEditor:BarbaraA.Lynch-Johnt
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ISBN-13:978-1-58428-268-6
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NoticeofDisclaimer:Theinformationcontainedinthisbookisbasedontheauthor’sexperienceandopinions.The
authorandpublisherwillnotbeheldliablefortheuseormisuseoftheinformationinthisbook.
Table of Contents
Introduction ........................................7
TheImportanceofOurImage .............................7
ChangingPointsofView .................................7
Sidebar:Jerry’sEducationandTraining .......................8
Sidebar:ASpecialRelationship .............................9
FourProfessionsinOne .................................10
ThisBook ............................................10
Sidebar:EveryWomanisa“Centerfold” ......................11
1. Basic Techniques:
Makeup and Photoshop ...........................12
EvaluatingtheFace .....................................12
SculptingwithHighlightandShadow .......................12
ShadowContouring ....................................13
AddingBlush .........................................16
AddingHighlights .....................................16
TheEyes .............................................17
DarkShadowintheCrease .............................17
ColorandHighlights .................................18
MascaraandEyeliner ..................................19
EyebrowArching ....................................19
ApplyingColortotheLips ...............................21
BeforeandAfterMakeup ................................23
TheABCsofPhotoshop .................................24
2. Brenda Lee ......................................30
Makeup .............................................31
Postproduction ........................................31
Sidebar:ALetterfromBrendaLee ..........................35
TABLEOFCONTENTS3
3. Cecilia ..........................................36
Makeup .............................................36
Postproduction ........................................36
Sidebar:ALetterfromCecilia ..............................39
4. Barbara .........................................40
Makeup .............................................41
Postproduction ........................................41
Sidebar:Jerry’sGlamourBooks ............................44
5. Eliysia ..........................................45
MakeupandLighting ...................................45
Postproduction ........................................46
Sidebar:TheFinePointsofFacialReshaping ...................47
Sidebar:BeforesandAfters:Eva ............................50
6. Peggy Lynn .....................................52
Makeup .............................................52
Postproduction ........................................53
Sidebar:ALetterfromPeggyLynn ..........................59
7. Sally ............................................61
Makeup .............................................61
Sidebar:WhyClientsWantWallPortraits ......................61
Postproduction ........................................62
Sidebar:Sally’sStory ....................................69
Sidebar:ALetterfromWendy ..............................70
8. Gina ............................................71
MakeupandPose ......................................72
Postproduction ........................................72
Sidebar:AFewWordsAboutLearningYourCraft ...............75
4EXTREMEMAKEOVERTECHNIQUESFORDIGITALGLAMOURPHOTOGRAPHY
9. Katy ............................................76
MakeupandPose ......................................77
Postproduction ........................................77
10. Rhobley .......................................81
Makeup .............................................81
Postproduction ........................................82
Sidebar:Posing ........................................85
11. Robyn .........................................86
MakeupandLighting ...................................86
Postproduction ........................................87
Sidebar:LightanditsEmotionalContent .....................90
12. Gloria..........................................91
MakeupandPose ......................................92
Postproduction ........................................92
Sidebar:ANotefromGloria ...............................96
13. Vandella .......................................97
Makeup .............................................97
Postproduction ........................................97
Sidebar:ALetterfromVandella ...........................100
14. Rosi ..........................................101
Makeup ............................................101
Postproduction .......................................101
TABLEOFCONTENTS5
15. Melissa .......................................106
DetermineWhattheClientWants .........................106
DirecttheTransformation...............................107
16. Kelli ..........................................109
17. Maternity Portraits ...........................112
Cindy .............................................112
Roxanne ............................................114
Conclusion .......................................115
Sidebar:Deneen ......................................116
Sidebar:FromDeneen—OneYearLater .....................116
Glossary .........................................119
Index .............................................122
FREEDOWNLOADS!
Ifyou’dliketofollowalongwiththestep-by-stepPhotoshoptechniquespresentedin
chapters2through14,gotowww.AmherstMedia.comtodownloadlow-resolutioncopies
oftheoriginalfiles.
6EXTREMEMAKEOVERTECHNIQUESFORDIGITALGLAMOURPHOTOGRAPHY
Introduction
J
erryDisnotonlyagiftedphotographerandPhotoshopwizard,he
isalsoalicensedcosmetologistandhairdresser,aswellasablackbelt
in the Chinese martial art of kung fu. Jerry did not see the pieces of his
lifecomingtogether,butonebyoneheperfectedeachcraftuntiloneday
hesawwhathecoulddoforpeople.
The Importance of Our Image
When Jerry realized how he could change a subject’s appearance by
doing their hair and makeup, he was hooked. People were amazed—
especially those who had never worked on themselves like that. When
Jerrybegandoingmakeoverswithpeople,herealizedthattheirsecurity
People were amazed—
was “all in the mirror.” He says, “From the time you’re old enough to
especially those who had
recognizeyourselfinthemirror,thisiswhenyoustartlikingyourselfand
never worked on them- acceptingyourself.Self-acceptancebeginswiththereflectionwesee,”he
selves like that. says.“Thisimageissostrongthatwecompareeverythingwedoforthe
rest of our lives to the way we feel about ourselves when we walk away
fromthemirror.”
Changing Points of View
Becausethemirroronlyshowsusonepointofview,youdon’tgetthefull
perspective; you can’t see yourself from all the different sides, the way
other people do. “So anytime we break out of this way of seeing our-
selves,”saysJerry,“it’sveryscaryandalotofthingshappen.”Formost
of us, it took a long time to accept ourselves the way we are and to be
happy—andinsecuritiesoftenarisebecausewe’renotsureifwe’rebeing
acceptedbyothers.
Thisworksonalotofdifferentlevels,accordingtoJerry.Inrelation-
ships, for instance, people can sometimes become insecure and anxious
when one person changes the way they look. They feel that they don’t
know the other person, or that the other person is changing somehow.
INTRODUCTION7
Our perceptions of the people around us underlie relationship funda-
mentalslikehonestyandtrust.AccordingtoJerry,theseperceptionsde-
pend largely on how others see you—and the image that they expect to
seewhentheylookatyou.
“When we’re changing someone’s image—the extreme makeover—
wewanttodowhat’sgoingtolookbestforthem,”Jerrysays.Whenyou
do someone’s makeover and they look really good, he says, you can see
the apprehension on their faces. When people see themselves and are Jerry D got into
amazedattheirnewlook,theydon’treallyknowifthey’llbeacceptedby
photography so he could
others.
show people how good
JerryDgotintophotographysohecouldshowpeoplehowgoodthey
they look . . .
look from his redefined point of view and from different perspectives.
Heremembersthataninterestingthinghappenedwhenhestartedshow-
ingpeopleprintsofthemselvesaftertheirmakeovers.Theyreallydidn’t
perceivetheimagestobelikethemselvesatall.Theysuddenlysawthem-
selvesmuchmoreobjectively.Theywouldsaythingslike,“Iliketheway
this person looks in this image,” as if they were talking about someone
else. It was a much easier transition to like themselves in images. Jerry
says,“ThemoreIphotographedthesechangesinpeople,themoreIre-
JERRY’SEDUCATIONAND TRAINING
JerrystudiedcosmetologyatCitrusCollegeinGlendora,CA,thengraduallygot
intothestylingbusiness,primarilycuttinghair.Whilehewasinschool,hemet
TonyBeckerman,aworld-renownedhairdresserwhoranalltheVidalSassoon
schools.JerrysaysofBeckerman,“Hewasonthecuttingedgeofallthenewde-
signsinhairstyling.ItturnedouthewasalsointerestedinkungfuandsoIex-
changed lessons in kung fu for
lessons in cutting hair from one of
thelegendsofhairstyling.So,while
I was still in school, I was able to
comebackandsharethelatestand
greatest techniques for cutting hair
withtheotherstudents.”(Note:Jerry
credits kung fu for giving him the
disciplineandconfidencetoachieve
his goals. “Kung fu allows you to
overcome anything you want,” he
says. “It also gives you the vision
andabilitytolookbeyondwhatyou
see.” Jerry believes that the ancient
discipline is not something you do,
but something you become. It’s a
Jerry is seen in traditional dress of the
kung-fumaster,adistinctionearnedafter way of thinking; a respect for one-
achieving the eighth-degree black belt.
self. Understanding oneself and
This is a self-portrait, and yes, that’s a
sword, which is part of the traditional your own insecurities makes you
garb. abletoidentifywitheveryone.)
ASPECIALRELATIONSHIP
LettersfromJerryD’sclientsrevealaveryspecialrelationshipbetweenthepho-
tographerandhissubjects,andthevulnerabilityoftheclientandthepowerof
thephotographer.Thedynamicisnottobeabused;itisacrucialpointinthe
photographer’sreputationandabilitytogenerateword-of-mouthreferrals.Itis
amazing to see the reverence with which so many of Jerry’s clients hold him.
He is a god and an imagemaker in the true Hollywood sense—and in many
cases, he is solely responsible for bringing his customers back from a long,
darkpathofemotionaldiscontent.Itmightbehardtobelievethatthereissuch
an intense connection between the two parties, but it’s true—as you will see
whenyoureadsomeofthelettersincludedhere.Therelationshipbetweenthe
photographerandsubjectcanbeasthickasblood.
Thephotographicexperience,the“session,”isbothhorrifyingandcathartic
to a client. They are terrified they won’t measure up, and yet they are oddly
soothedbythecomforting,nurturingattitudeofthephotographer.Thesubject
givesupcontrolandletsdownalldefenses,givingthephotographerthepower
toreshapetheminanywayheseesfit.Likea“surething”attheracetrack,self-
confidenceandself-assurednesssurgesand,withfewexceptions,thesession
isasmashingsuccessandtheclientwalksawayfilledwithgoodfeelingsabout
themselves.It’satrulyamazingrelationship!
A simple quote about Jerry from one of his clients says it all: “He was able
toseemybeauty,insideandout.”That’sthekindofcompletefaithheinspires.
It’sactuallyquiteamazing.
alizedhowmuchIlikedthephotographyendofthings.”Thispropelled
himintostartingtophotographhis“befores”and“afters.”
When Jerry graduated, he was able to cut hair every day; in the
evenings,heranhiskung-fuschool.Thiswentonforabouttenyears.He
He realized he was at the eventuallybecamewhatisknownasaplatformartist,givingdemonstra-
tionsandworkshopstootherdesignersattradeshowsandotherevents.
mercy of other hairstylists
He worked for a number of different companies, but didn’t really get
and makeup artists . . .
intothemakeupendofstylinguntilhehadestablishedhisphotography
business.
Oncehewasaccomplishedenoughtoconsiderhimselfaphotographer,
however,herealizedhewasatthemercyofotherhairstylistsandmakeup
artists—peoplewhonotonlyhaddifferentphilosophiesthanhisownon
beauty, but didn’t necessarily share Jerry’s vision of what the final look
shouldbe.“Whatevertheydidwaswhatyouhadtoworkwith,”hesays.
In order to come full circle and have full control of everything about
theperson’slook,hedecidedtolearnhowtoapplymakeupprofession-
ally. When combined with his hairstyling skills, this allowed him to do
complete makeovers for his customers—and create images that would
absolutelymesmerizethem.
When he learned how to apply makeup like an artist, everything
INTRODUCTION9