Copyright © 2014 by Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos Photographs copyright © 2014 by Eric Wolfinger All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, a Penguin Random House Company, New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.clarksonpotter.com CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with colophon is a registered trademark of Random House LLC. COOKING CHANNEL and associated logos and EXTRA VIRGIN are trademarks of COOKING CHANNEL, LLC, and are used under license. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Mazar, Debi. Extra virgin : recipes & love from our Tuscan kitchen / Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos; photographs by Eric Wolfinger. — First edition. pages cm Includes index. 1. Cooking, Italian—Tuscan style. I. Corcos, Gabriele. II. Title. TX723.2.T86M398 2014 641.59455—dc23 2013032506 ISBN 978-0-385-34605-4 eBook ISBN 978-0-385-34606-1 Book and jacket design by Jan Derevjanik Jacket photography by Eric Wolfinger All photographs are by Eric Wolfinger with the exception of: 1.4, 2.1, 2.21, 3.3, 11.4 by Jeremiah Alley; col2.1, 1.8, 2.10 by Lorenzo Carlomagno; and 1.1 by David Lang. Photographs courtesy of the authors: 7.5 by Chiara Sinatti and ded.1, 11.2, and 11.9. Cooking Channel photographs on col.1, fm1.1, 1.3, 1.8, 2.14, 7.1, 9.1, and 11.1 are provided courtesy of Cooking Channel, LLC. © 2011 Cooking Channel, LLC. Cooking Channel photographs on 1.5, 7.6, 10.1, and 5.1 are provided courtesy of Cooking Channel, LLC. © 2012 Cooking Channel, LLC. First Edition v3.1 We dedicate this book to one another, to our daughters, Evelina and Giulia, and to families everywhere. CONTENTS INTRODUCTION THE TUSCAN KITCHEN: ESSENTIALS Appetizers Pastas and Sauces Risotto Soups Salads Meat Fish Vegetables Pizza Panini Desserts Drinks ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX INTRODUCTION DA FIRENZE IN AMERICA A RECIPE FOR LOVE, LIFE, AND FAMILY DEBI: I grew up with a deep love for food, thanks mostly to a grandmother who cooked well and could win over anybody with her braciole. But it was also because of that truly unique food upbringing that a lot of New Yorkers talk about, where your street could be a meeting place not just for people, but for aromas from seemingly all corners of the earth. There would be fried chicken from one window, spicy island dishes from another, and down the block something garlicky and peppery wafting out of the Italians’ houses. And all that might be in the air while I was thinking about the dinner I was about to have in Chinatown! When I was eight years old, my mother moved us to Saugerties in the Catskills area of upstate New York and essentially became a hippie. She got into gardening—growing corn, zucchini, tomatoes, and basil—and taught herself how to cook, making delicious meals, and baking bread and pies. It was a bit of a culture shock for a young girl with the excitement of city streets in her blood, but it opened my eyes in the best way possible to good, fresh, locally grown food. We had neighbors in Woodstock who were from Northern Italy, and it was at their house that I had my first taste of freshly made pasta, which was always hanging over drying racks and draped over chairs around their house. Nothing against my grandmother’s heavy, delicious Sicilian-style dishes, but this was something special, and different. I’d always adored Italian cuisine and its well-honed use of ingredients that have been cultivated and enjoyed for centuries. But meeting and falling for Gabriele, I discovered how much great food also comes from a desire to feed the ones you love. I’d always thought I would have to win over a man with my own cooking. I remember plenty of times I’d go to all this trouble to cook for a guy who’d show up late, if at all, and who’d never appreciate the time and effort I put into a meal. At the very least, I had my dinner parties, which had become popular gatherings for my friends. But here was this handsome Florentine, passionate about life, art, history, and food, who not only wanted to cook FOR me, but loved impressing me with the vegetables, fruits, cheeses, and meats of his country, region, and family. Hot, right? Then he took me to his hometown of Fiesole in the hills above Florence, to the beautiful land where his family had lived for generations, and the sense of history was overwhelming. I have a deep fondness for ancient cultures and strong traditions. Gabriele showed me the fruit trees, the wild herbs, and the rustic sweep of it all, and I fell for him all over again. I’ll be honest—merging our refrigerators involved some negotiation at first, mostly when it came to what he thought about some of my food staples. I had good extra virgin olive oil, fresh herbs, quality ingredients for a sauce. But one look at my rice milk, tofu, and bean sprouts, and Gabriele had to control his impulse to take over our kitchen. I would come home exhausted from shooting a TV series, too tired to think about much of anything except learning lines for the next day, and I’d find that my husband had whipped up a dish inspired by his scouring the local farmers’ markets. Then I understood what an act of love it is to provide a simple, fresh, and delicious meal for your amore. I may have occasionally had my head in the plate, I was so freakin’ tired, but you would have seen a smile as my face fell forward! As our beautiful daughters, Evelina and Giulia, came into the picture, and since Gabriele and I decided to turn our kitchen-inspired happiness into a website to share our joys of traditional Tuscan cooking, our passion for the flavors of my husband’s land has only grown. Our television show has been another outlet for what we’re trying to convey. But there’s no substitute for this: a book with easy-to-make, joyful meals from our heart and soul. So please use this book. Dog-ear the pages. Get sauce on it. Let a spray of olive oil from a vigorous drizzle mark its pages. Write your favorite notes—your own inspirations—in the margins. Let the love we put into these recipes become a part of your home. Your family will thank you, the friends you cook for will look at you in a new light, and maybe that special someone you hope to woo will find that decision about you a little easier to make! We crave the spice and sweetness of life after all, and as I’ve learned from loving Gabriele, delicious food made from great ingredients is the means to achieve it. GABRIELE: I’ve walked through olive fields picking fruits of the harvest, and stood by my grandmother as she made ravioli by hand, and stolen a bite of prosciutto from my hidden stash when my kosher Jewish father wasn’t home. I grew up with a strong sense of food’s connection to the earth, to family, and to personal pleasure. These are the experiences that make me the Tuscan cook I am today, and I find the greatest joy in life from cooking the food I grew up with for my family and friends. It’s the same joy I experienced as a percussionist when I was pursuing a music career—that thrill of performing for audiences. There is a direct connection between doing what I love and the feeling it gives me when I experience it. It’s interesting how often making food for someone else may seem routine on the surface, but inside you teem with deeper emotions connected to caring for others. My earliest memories of learning how to cook come from my mother, a schoolteacher, showing me the ins and outs of the fridge and the stove, so I could make my baby brother Fabio’s bottle on Sunday mornings, while Mom slept in after a hard week. (Not waking her up was step one of the recipe.) Feeding my brother was a taste of responsibility and maturity—tied up in providing for someone unable to fend for himself—that I never forgot. Then when Nonna Lola, my beloved grandmother, taught me the secret to her wonderful almond cake, it was like being given a family heirloom, from a doting grandmother to the grandson who cherished her cooking. When I was a newlywed with a pregnant wife, it dawned on me what my life had been leading up to: the ability to feed my family, to turn the making of a fragrant, nourishing bowl of pasta with red sauce into an act of the most sincere love. When Deborah and I started making home videos to share on the Internet, teaching people the basics of traditional Tuscan recipes, we watched our site grow into a much larger audience. I was surprised at how freeing it was to be in contact with the world through the food I loved. Then again, learning to cook as I grew up was a form of freedom, as was breaking certain rules in our house, too. The funny thing about mio amore Deborah’s story is that for her, it took leaving the city and landing in the country to round out her appreciation of food. For me, I would often feel stuck on our Florentine
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