Everyone eats: understanding food and culture PDF
Preview Everyone eats: understanding food and culture
EvEryonE Eats Second Edition This page intentionally left blank EvEryonE Eats Understanding Food and Culture Second Edition E. N. Anderson a NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London NEW YORK UNIVERSITY PRESS New York and London www.nyupress.org © 2014 by New York University All rights reserved References to Internet websites (URLs) were accurate at the time of writing. Neither the author nor New York University Press is responsible for URLs that may have expired or changed since the manuscript was prepared. LIbRaRY O f CONgRESS CaTaLOgINg-IN-PUbLICa TION DaTa Anderson, Eugene N. (Eugene Newton), 1941– Everyone eats : understanding food and culture / E. N. Anderson. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-8147-7014-6 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-8147-6006-2 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Food habits. 2. Food preferences. I. Title. GT2850.A6644 2004 394.1’2—dc22 2004014366 New York University Press books are printed on acid-free paper, and their binding materials are chosen for strength and durability. We strive to use environmentally responsible suppliers and materials to the greatest extent possible in publishing our books. Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Book design by Marcelo Agudo Also available as an ebook To all the unknown men and women who created the staple foods and the cuisines of the world: our greatest and least known benefactors. With special thanks to my (fortunately less obscure) mentors, especially: Paul Buell Jack Goody Solomon Katz Sidney Mintz This page intentionally left blank ContEnts Acknowledgments ix Introduction: Everyone Eats 1 Introduction to the Second Edition: 9 One More Round 1. Obligatory Omnivores 13 2. Human Nutritional Needs 46 3. More Needs Than One 75 4. The Senses: Taste, Smell, 85 and the Adapted Mind 5. Basics: Environment and Economy 100 6. Food and Traditional Medicine 119 7. Food as Pleasure 137 8. Food Classification and Communication 154 A vii B Contents 9. Me, Myself, and the Others: 171 Food as Social Marker 10. Food and Religion 188 11. Change 199 12. Foods and Borders: Ethnicities, Cuisines, 225 and Boundary Crossings 13. Feeding the World 250 Appendix: Explaining It All: Nutritional 283 Anthropology and Food Scholarship Notes 293 References 305 Index 345 About the Author 353 A viii B aCknowlEdgmEnts This is the place to acknowledge some of the people who have helped me understand food over the years and thus perhaps help a small amount in saving them from the general obscurity of those who have fed the world. I wish I could extend this list indefinitely; I would like to include everyone who has ever cooked for me or grown food that I ate. My mother and my father’s mother were the first of these; they taught me the joys of eating. I thank my wife Barbara, my children, and all my family. But, to keep things manageable, let me restrict the rest of this list to my friends and advisors among the serious scholars of foodways. In addition to those singled out in my dedication, I am grateful especially to Ken Albala; Marja Anderson; Myra Appell; Marilyn Beaudry-Corbett; Alan Davidson; Alan Fix; Rachel Laudan; Françoise Sabban; Ellen Messer; Charles Perry; Nevin, Mary, and Susan Scrimshaw; Penny van Esterik; and Christine Wilson. Special thanks to Sid Mintz, who undertook the awful task of reading the entire manu- script, on which he made perceptive and insightful comments. Anony- mous reviewers also helped. I apologize to friends and colleagues for not devoting more attention to their work, but space is limited. Thanks also to Ilene Kalish and the wonderful editing staff of New York University Press! A ix B
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