Everyday Life in Central Asia This page intentionally left blank Everyday Life in Central Asia Past and Present E D I T E D B Y Jeff Sahadeo and Russell Zanca INDIANA UNIVERSITY PRESS Bloomington and Indianapolis This book is a publication of Indiana University Press 601 North Morton Street Bloomington, IN 47404-3797 USA http://iupress.indiana.edu Telephone orders 800-842-6796 Fax orders 812-855-7931 Orders by e-mail [email protected] © 2007 by Indiana University Press All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. The Association of American University Presses’ Resolution on Permissions constitutes the only exception to this prohibition. The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1984. Manufactured in the United States of America Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Everyday life in Central Asia : past and present / edited by Jeff Sahadeo and Russell Zanca. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-253-34883-8 (cloth : alk. paper) — ISBN 978-0-253-21904-6 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Asia, Central—Social life and customs. 2. Ethnology—Asia, Central. I. Sahadeo, Jeff, date II. Zanca, Russell G., date DS328.2.E94 2007 958’.04—dc22 2006037058 1 2 3 4 5 12 11 10 09 08 07 To the countless Central Asians who have opened their doors and hearts to us and with whom we have shared meals and affection, joys and frustrations, and hopes and fears. We hope this book makes some contribution toward a deeper understanding of how much we all deserve a better world, even as we seek different pathways toward that end. Learn and learn, ask and ask, do not be afraid. —Theophrastus Philippus Aureolus Bombastus von Hohenheim (Paracelsus—16th century mystical philosopher, physician, and alchemist) C O N T E N T S acknowledgments xi Introduction: Central Asia and Everyday Life 1 Part 1. Background Introduction 13 1. Turks and Tajiks in Central Asian History 15 Scott Levi Part 2. Communities Introduction 33 2. Everyday Life among the Turkmen Nomads 37 Adrienne Edgar 3. Recollections of a Hazara Wedding in the 1930s 45 Robert L. Canfi eld 4. Trouble in Birgilich 58 Robert L. Canfi eld 5. A Central Asian Tale of Two Cities: Locating Lives and A spirations in a Shifting Post-Soviet Cityscape 66 Morgan Y. Liu Part 3. Gender Introduction 85 viii / Contents 6. The Limits of Liberation: Gender, Revolution, and the Veil in Everyday Life in Soviet Uzbekistan 89 Douglas Northrop 7. The Wedding Feast: Living the New Uzbek Life in the 1930s 103 Marianne Kamp 8. Practical Consequences of Soviet Policy and Ideology for Gender in Central Asia and Contemporary Reversal 115 Elizabeth A. Constantine 9. Dinner with Akhmet 127 Greta Uehling Part 4. Performance and Encounters Introduction 141 10. An Ethnohistorical Journey through Kazakh Hospitality 145 Paula A. Michaels 11. Konstitutsiya buzildi! Gender Relations in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan 160 Meltem Sancak and Peter Finke 12. Fat and All That: Good Eating the Uzbek Way 178 Russell Zanca 13. Public and Private Celebrations: Uzbekistan’s National Holidays 198 Laura Adams 14. Music across the Kazakh Steppe 213 Michael Rouland Part 5. Nation, State, and Society in the Everyday Introduction 229 15. The Shrinking of the Welfare State: Central Asians’ Assessments of Soviet and Post-Soviet Governance 233 Kelly M. McMann Contents / ix 16. Going to School in Uzbekistan 248 Shoshana Keller 17. Alphabet Changes in Turkmenistan, 1904–2004 266 Victoria Clement 18. Travels in the Margins of the State: Everyday Geography in the Ferghana Valley Borderlands 281 Madeleine Reeves Part 6. Religion Introduction 301 19. Divided Faith: Trapped between State and Islam in Uzbekistan 305 Eric M. McGlinchey 20. Sacred Sites, Profane Ideologies: Religious Pilgrimage and the Uzbek State 319 David M. Abramson and Elyor E. Karimov 21. Everyday Negotiations of Islam in Central Asia: Practicing Religion in the Uyghur Neighborhood of Zarya Vostoka in Almaty, Kazakhstan 339 Sean R. Roberts 22. Namaz, Wishing Trees, and Vodka: The Diversity of Everyday Religious Life in Central Asia 355 David W. Montgomery 23. Christians as the Main Religious Minority in Central Asia 371 Sebastien Peyrouse selected bibliography 385 list of contributors 389 index 395