Everyday Fashions of the Forties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs

132 Pages·1992·21.724 MB·English

by  JoAnne Olian

,
EVERYDAY FASHIONS OF
THE FORTIES
As Pictured in Sears Catalogs
Edited and with an Introduction
i;
loAnne Olian
BOSTON
PUBLIC
UBRATOT
EVERYDAY FASHIONS OF
THE FORTIES
As I'ii'liiri'il in Sears Catalogs
Editedand with an Introduction by
JOAWE
OLIAM
Curator, CostumeCollection
Museum oftheCitvofNewYork
Dover
Publications, Inc
New
York
BRIGHTON
—
Copyright t 1992byDoverPublications, Inc.
All rights reservedunderPan Americanand InternationalCopyrightConventions.
PublishedinCanadabvGeneral PublishingCompany, Ltd..30Lesmill Road. Don
Mills.Toronto.Ontario.
PublishedintheUnitedKingdombvConstableandCompany, Ltd.. 3TheLanches-
ters.162-1MFulham Palace Road. LondonW69ER
EverydayFashionsoftheFortiesas Picturedin Scars Catalogs isanew work,first
publishedbyDoverPublications. Inc.. in1992.
Manufacturedinthe UnitedStatesotAmerica
DoverPublications. Inc..31 East2ndStreet. Mineola. N.Y. 11501
LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-Publication Data
Everydayfashionsotthe fortiesas picturedin Searscatalogs edited and withan
introductionbyJoAnneOlian.
p. cm.
ISBN0-486-—26918-3(pbk.) — — —
1. Costume UnitedStates History 20thcentury. 2. Fashion Company
Catalogs. I. Olian.JoAnne.
GT615.E9 1992
391'.00973'09044—dc20 91-42700
CIP
Introduction
Thesenseofbeingperfectlywell-dressedgivesafeelingof sportswear. Invented in America, this comfortable, casual
inner tranquilit) which religion is powerless to bestow. way of dressing, unlike Parisian "dressmaker fashion, ad-
Ralph Waldo Emerson,Journal, L870 dressed the specific requirements of American life. The
Gibson Girl'sdirectdescendantscan be found in the pages
The highqualit) and spiritedstyleofAmericasclothing, at of the Sears, Roebuck catalog, whose- clean-cut models,
everypricelevel, isoneofthehallmarksofoursociety. Long dressed in attractive, well-fitting, uncomplicated clothes.
before the reach-to-wear industry was introduced in Eu- present a healthy, animated appearance.
rope, it was flourishing on American soil, thanks in large The wide range ofgarments offered in the catalog is a
measuretothegeniusofnineteenth-centuryentrepreneurs chronicle of Searss vast numbers ofcustomers, living in
who took advantage ofrapid improvements in technology diverse climates and circumstances from coast to coast A
and manufacturing methods to create attractive, well- picture story in 1941 featured "two good Sears families.
made, affordable mass-produced c—lothing. The Gees were a farm family whose son hoped for a 4-H
"We are a clothes-crazy people . . . we boast that our club ribbonatthecountyfairwhilehissisterfedthe famiK
shop-girlslookasattractiveasoursocialbutterflies,thatour flock ofhens and plaved schoolteacher to her dolls. Mrs.
jerk-watertowns tilt theirhats at the sameangleasourbig Gee,picturedmodelinganewSearsdress forherhusband,
cities; we're even a little smug about being called, as we hadjustput upnearly400quartsoffruitandvegetables for
frequently are. the best-dressed women in the world, the winter. The Bollingers lived in asmall town where Mr
observed Vogue in 1938: Bollinger worked the night shift at the mill and his wife
Actually, itisn'tsomuchthatwearethebest-dressed—itis servedastreasurerofthe RT.A. Forrecreation the) played
that more ofus are well dressed. A handful oftop-flight bridge, theirdaughterwas acheerleaderat Calumet High
Frenchwomen easily outstrip us in creating and wearing and their son raced on ball-bearing roller skates. Both
clothes, but collectively, en masse, our 40,000,000 adult women were the purchasing agents for their families and
females are better dressed, more fashion-conscious than planned their expenditures carefully. When admiring
anyotherson the face of the earth. friendswonderedhowthevmanagedtodresssowell. Mrs
Hut. you say, these are commonplaces. Andsotheyare, Bollinger, "with frankness bom ofgratitude, would bring
the commonplaces of mass production and mass distribu- out the "Big Book and lay it in their laps.
tion; the ordinary week-day tale of great businesses that Totoday'ssophisticatedeyes,theGeeses'milkingchores,
catertothegreat massofAmericanwomen;ofanationthat
piano practice and Sunday dinner, and the Bollingers
hasgrownstrongbecauseithasbelievedthatcommonplace church attendance on Sundays, their daughter's double
needswereimportant. Perhapsthefoundingfatherswould
be surprised if they should wake to-day to see our literal dates and fudge-making depict a cliche-ridden. Norman
interpretationof theirtheories, toseeademocracvofgov- Rockwell America, and it was. even then, an idealized por-
ernment achieve alsotheonl) democracyoffashion in the trayal oflifeon thethresholdofWorldWar II The realities
world.The) might be surprised,butwedonot believethat can be deduced from the 1940census, which revealed that
theywould be displeased. onlyoneoutof fiveAmericansownedacar.oneinsevenhad
atelephoneandamere 15percentof thecollege-age popu-
Undoubtedly, the first incarnation of the "democracy of lation attended college. One quarter of America's homes
fashion was the Gibson Girl, who personified the Ameri- still had neither a refrigerator nor an icebox. (SO percent
can ideal of radiantly healthy femininity. Her wardrobe lacked central heat and three out of tour farmhouses wen-
consisted chiefly of ready-made, mass-produced apparel litwith kerosene lamps. Ina 1941 profileofatypicalcatalog
worn without apologv and with a great deal ofpanache by customer. Sears recounted the red-letterda) whin power
millionsol Americanwomenofeveryeconomiclevel foran lines reached their Minnesota farmhouse 'First on their
infinite variet) ol occasions Her signature, the shirtwaist listof 'musts.'ofcourse,wasacentrifugalpumpforrunning
blouse, an important component in the democratization of water Then came the electric range Vnd as the months
fashion, was so popular that in 1905 the Sears catalog fea- went by, otherconveniences wore added vacuum (leaner,
tured r><) models, rangingm price fromoneol'lawn toaster, iron, radioand clock In addition, byusing
to a delicate silk taffeta at $6 95. The embodiment ofour electric cream separatoi and Sears motor to powei the
I
national st\lc the handsome (iibson Girl in her sprighth fanning mill and tool grinder, all from thi \ itions Wish
sluitw.tist and skirt was dressed in the earliest example ol Book, the) were able to save precious tun
Themerchandiseadvertisedinthecatalogswasselected Museum ofModern Art, followed by an American Indian
in direct response to Sears customers actual needs and showin 1941.
desires. Hence,theirpagesprovidean unparalleledviewof As Kate Smith belted out "God Bless America," Sears
the social andeconomicchanges takingplace in the1940s. captured the prevailing mood in sailordresses, red, white
Even in the remotest farmhouse the bookwas avidly per- and blue outfits and captions such as, "It's the American
usedbywomenwantingtolooktheirbestandawareofthe Way ... to Live in a Dress with Jacket," and the "Miss
latest styles, choosing from clothes photographed on the America"polocoat. Acotton skirt in atropicalprintwasa
samehigh-fashion modelsseenin VogueandHarpers Ba- "sunny California fashion" and a two-piece playsuit fea-
zaar. However, Sears layouts were more straightforward tured"CaliforniastylingintheSeason'smostfamousprint,"
and less glamorous, with an emphasison elaritvanddetail. a "Hawaiian-inspired design." Shoes were huaraches "in-
With garment industrycopyistscapableofturningoutver- spired by Mexico, the Moc-inette, "Frontier Fashion
. . .
sions ofcurrent Paris and NewYork fashion almostinstan- fringedlike an Indians moccasin"andthe "cactus country
taneouslv.Searscustomerswereabletodressasfashionably stvle tooled leather with "all the tang and dash of the
as urban women. romanticWest.
Fivesizerangeswereavailable, from size9forjuniorsto With the fall of France in 1940. American fashion
size57for"largerwomen"whocouldbuygarments"scien- abruptly found itself dependent on its own resources. Not
tifically designed to slenderize from neck to knee." The onlyweretherenoParisstylestocopy,but.asshippingwas
flirtatiousvoungjuniors, thedarlings of the catalog, whose divertedtowargoods, such items as Frenchperfumesand
fashions were selected by a male "jury," set the stvle for Swiss watches ceased to be available. In 1941, the govern-
their high-school and grade-school sisters. Clothes were ment took over all remaining stocks of raw silk, necessi-
made in sizes forteens, big and little girls and sometimes tating the substitution of other fibers, chiefly rayon, for
even in identical stvles for mothers and daughters. The dresses. In 1942 Sears offered a domestic rayon raincoat
—
1940s classics the camels hair boy coat, the reversible forwomentoreplacetheimportedsilktheycouldnolonger
raincoat, twin Shetland sweater sets, the shirtwaist dress, obtain. However, rayonwassooninshortsupplyforcivilian
saddle shoes and the prized velvet-col—lared Chesterfield use as it, too, was needed in thewareffort. Nylon hosiery,
coatthatevenwonaCotvawardin1943 weresuitablefor introducedinthe1940catalog,vanishedthreeyearslater.In
women ofpracticallyeveryage andsize, startingwith tod- 1942, theWarProduction Boardplacedsevere restrictions
dlers and excluding onlv the "gracious lady as the silver- ontheuseofwool,dvestuffsandtheamountofyardagethat
haired, grandmotherly, large-size woman was euphemisti- could be used in garments. Sears and Vogue, displaying a
callytermed. marked similarity, editorialized regarding the need to buy
Steadily increasing numbers of sportswear pages fea- quality and to dress conservatively, while Stanley Marcus,
turedslacks.OriginatinginCalifornia,asbefittingtheinfor- apparel consultant to the War Production Board, told de-
malityoftheWestCoastlifestyle,theyenjoyedgreatpopu- signers it was their patriotic duty to devise clothing that
larity for work as well as recreation. Denim, previously would remain fashionable for several seasons, since the
confined to men's overalls, appeared in playclothes for materialsand laborthat formerlyhelpedtocreateobsoles-
women and girls, perhaps through the influence of New cenceandconsumerismwerecrucialtothemanufactureof
York's Best & Company, long renowned for its casual war <j;oods. However, this was not meant to discourage
clothes,whosevice president, MaryLewis, became Searss buying completely. As Vogue explained in February 1942:
fashion directorin 1943. Hollywood'sinfluence isapparent Manyawomanwiththebestintentionsintheworldthinks
in the square-shouldered suits created bv Adrian for Joan
sheisdoingherhit. makinganoblesacrifice,byrefusingto
Crawford, as well as romantic evening gowns and picture buyanynewclothesduringtheduration. Butsocomplexis
hats inspired by Gone With the Wind, released in 1939. oureconomiclifethatthisveryactofself-denial maywork
Girls hats were modeled by juvenile screen stars Deanna injurvtothedelicatelyadjusted"earswhichmustcontinue
Durbin and Shirlev Temple, while the ubiquitous turban to mesh if that great machine is tocontinue tofunction, if
owed its exotic appeal to Carmen Miranda and Dorothy thatgreatmachineistoswingintothemightiestarmaments
Lamour. Even the "larger woman" could choose a Marie production efforts ol all time
Dressierensemble designed especially forher. Arms and munitions, boats and planes are made by
In the 1940s the catalog held a mirror up to life domi- workers, who are paid in the money that comes from de-
nated overwhelmingly by the ordeal ofWorld War II. The fense bondsandtaxes. A s—izablepartofthese taxes comes
years immediately preceding Americas entry into the war fromtheclothingindustrv inpeacetime,thesecondlarg-
estofourcountry.
weremarkedbyaturninginward, manifestedinadawning The makers of fashionable shoes and hats, gloves and
appreciation ofnative traditions and culture. Aaron Cop- bags, of dresses and coats and suits—all these makers are
landandFerdeGrofeinterpretedAmericamusically,Agnes operating with full government approval. Whatever is on
deMille and Martha Graham looked to the landscape for saleinashopistheretobebought,withtheGovernmentS
inspirationasdidanentiregenerationofpaintersincluding lull permission. Refusal tobuyonlv helps to dislocate the
EdwardHopper.Thomas Hart Benton.JohnSteuartCurry publiceconomy.
and Grant Wood. A strong Latin American craze was evi-
dentinthepopularityoftherumbaandtheconga,whilean Theoperativewordwas"challenge. Government,press,
unprecedented Mexican exhibitionwas held in 1940atthe retailers and Sears called on the American designer to
create with ingenuity within the restrictions imposed on (.'lassie sportswear as it was worn on college campuses
textiles, yardageanclthelackof rubberand metal. Inadher- was a way of dressing that somehow managed to reconcile
ence to regulation L-85 mandated by the War Production "conservative" and "fashion." Sold initial!) in depaj
Hoard, resourceful designers made sport) youngsuitswith storecollegeshopsinthethirties, itspopularityinspiredthe
short, narrow skirts and jackets not exceeding25 inches in launchingofMademoiselle, the first magazine to address
length. theburgeoningmarketofyoungcollegeandcareerwomen.
Onethirdol the femalepopulationwent towork, replac- Heavily indebted to mens British-style sportswear, requi-
ing men in lactones or joining the diminished Dumber ol sites included the "Brooks Brothers Shetland sweater, al-
male civilians, whose square-shouldered suits were minus most anything of menswear flannel, especially slacks a id
vests and pocket flaps, and whose trousers had lost both pleated skirts, fly-front mannish gabardine raincoats
pleatsandcullsto L-85. SearspraisedtheAmericanhouse- double-breasted camels-hair polo coats, tailored suits and
wile lor meeting the challenge on the home front, where, balmacaans in rugged tweeds, brown-and-white spectator
with the help ofMcCall's patterns, she performed feats of pumpsandsaddleshoes. Insteadofwatered-downcopiesof
magic on her Sears sewing machine, transformingcast-off the French couture, style originating on American cam-
clothingintousablegarmentsforherchildren. Laudingher puses enabled students and secretaries to look sporty and
for "keepingherfamilyhealthyanclallitsworkingmembers fashionable. Separates, sportswear components that could
litandefficient. Searsclaimed,"Nowarjobismoreimpor- becombinedinnumerouswaystocreateoutfitsthattotaled
tant, while salutingtheAmerican farmerforthe"general- more than the sum ofthe parts, formed the basis formuch
ship it takes to run a farm short ofhands, of equipment, ofthe"college lookamountingto30percentofthenation's
of everything but grit and the will to do! FallAVinter apparelbusinessby1949, accordingtoLife magazine. Pho-
I
1943-44l. tographed on attractive, outdoorsv-looking models, ver-
In spite of war-imposed shortages and hardships, and sionsofthesegarmentsineverysize range lorall ageswen-
"sorry, not available," stamped with increasing frequency featured throughout the decade.
over items in Sears wartime catalogs, the smiles of the Not until 1947, when Sears, including many items avail-
clean-cut American women modeling in its pages never able for the first time since the war. published its largest
faltered. Wearing cotton stockings or leg makeup and ra- spring catalog in 25 years, was there a pronounced differ-
tioned leather shoes, they took Sears's advice and saved enceinsilhouette,with"flare.' "fullness"and"softcurves"
their treasured service-weight rayon stockings for "fur- beingpromoted in outerwear, suits ancl dresses forwomen
loughdates, conservinggasolinebywalkingincomfortable and girls ofall sizes and ages. Sears copy read. "The new
low heels or wedgies. They wore slacks for comfort and lookisthe longlook,"explaining, "Skirtsare longer. Waist-
warmth even when pregnant. Wartime weddings and a lines look longer. Fabrics are used lavishly." Sears "new
risingbirthrate averagingayearlyincreaseof29.6percent look"wasadirectresultofthesensationcreatedby French
I
for the decade) occasioned additional pages of maternity couturierChristian Dior. Dubbed the "New Look by the
ensemblesandbain clothesintheforties'catalogs,indirect fashion press, Dior's silhouette reestablished the suprem-
contrast to the absence of long formal gowns after 1942. acyof Parisancl revolutionizedthe shapeoffashion. Shoul-
The 1944 jewelry pages even offered a 3'/2-earat emerald- derslosttheirpaddingandbecame rounded, aships, nevvlv
cut diamond engagement ring for $4,900. rounded, were accentuatedwith pads, andwaistlines were
Exhortations to buy good-quality merchandise and to beltedand cinched foreven furtherdefinition, while mid-
care for it wore common to high fashion and mail order. calf-length skirts swirled over rustling petticoats A dra-
Vogue, Harpers BazaarandSears's Man'Lewis, introduc- matic reaction totheseverelyman-tailored garbol the war
ing herself in 1943, all stressed classic clothing as away to years, the "New Look"was. in its extravagant use offabric
remain in fashion forseveral seasons, echoedbyarticles in and curves, an expression ofluxury and femininitv incon-
womens magazines demonstrating the properway to care ceivable during the years ofwartime austerity.
forapparel. The first customers in Sears's catalog to adopt the New
This emphasis on conservatism resulted in few percept- Look were fashion-conscious juniors, whose up-to-the-
ible fashion changes between 1941 and 1946. Theessential minutesuitshadshort, nipped-in jackets, "bustlepeplums"
contradiction between "conservative" ancl "fashion was and full skirts. While misses' clothes were indeed longer
addressed In The fashion Croup in 1942: initially their skirts remained slim, shoulders wore still
squared, and waistlines ancl hips were barer) emphasized
It is innocent to think that ingenuit) on the part ofour As Diorssilhouettegainedacceptanceinsmall-townAmer-
designersand producerscan surmount everyshortageand ica,itspopular-pricedtranslationacquiredamarkedresem-
triumph over ever) curtailment, Fashion will not be as blance to the charming shirtwaists and dared skirts ol
usual, an) more than life, business, transportation, or the Gibson Girl in awelcome revival ofthe romantic look.
etxaixsestedThuep)onI.tteheeavettw)o-nfaotldurreesopfoncshiabnigliet,y.anTdinnsoiwndcuhsatnngeliaiss aalstseurrayneacres of maintaining an image of competence .o\<.\
limited not onl\ In Government Orders not onh In
diminishing supplies hut In the need toavoid ol>soles- Nonetheless, as the "New Look swept across the coun-
Cence and waste at all costs Vet in the face ol all tins it is try, Outcries against it readied a level pitch \Vbm< n with
then jobtokeepthe flameol creative abilit) bright, andto good le'^ssaw no reason tohidethem in liHi
keepalive a respect forall we mean In qualitv men. equallyanxious not tobedepi liable
sight, bombardedthe presswith lettersofprotest. ATexas Thedecadeendedonanoteverydifferentfrom thaton
housewife founded the "Little Below the Knee Club," which it hadbegun. As GIs returned, eagertogetonwith
whichimmediatelyacquired1300membersinDallas,while theirinterruptedlives,marriagesreachedrecordlevelsand
therallyingeryoftheSanAntoniochapterwas."TheAlamo women who had emerged from their homes retired to
fell, hut our hemlines will not." In less than a month the domesticitytoraisefamilies,surroundedbythelatestlabor-
clubcouldboastmembersinall48states,aGeorgialegisla- savingappliances.
torannouncedplanstointroduceabillbanninglongskirts, Sears stood ready,to supply the needs ofthis new life-
and cartoons and vaudeville skits tried to laugh the "New style, complete with up-to-the-minute automatic washing
Look"outofexistence. Despiteallthevocaloppositionand machinesandtelevisionsets,firstadvertisedin1949. Poten-
hoopla, women were ready for a change and the "New tialcustomerswerecautionedthat"Yourdistancefromthe
Look was here to stay. station, yourlocation in respectto hills, tall buildings, etc..
Clothes once again became dressy. The crisp, efficient arefactorsthatlimitthereceptionoftelevision.ThisSilver-
angularityofwartimefashionwasabandonedinfavorofsoft toneTelevision Setwill givevou good reception ifyou live
drapervandfemininecurves.Aravonfaillejuniordressand within 15-20 miles ofthe station."
jacketwithagoldbeltfeatureda110-inchsweepofskirtand In 1950 America was well on its way to becoming a
a sophisticated moire trimmedwith real ermine tails mea- country of ardent consumers. A well-dressed, fashion-
sured115inchesatitshem.Sequins,beadsandnailheads,of conscious people, we were about to embark on an era in
newly available metals, trimmed dresses and soft "bal- which technology, prosperity and communications would
lerina suits.Tiersofrufflesedgedgirls cottondressesand combinetocreatevetunimaginedproductsforourcomfort
rows of elasticthreadshirredtheabbreviatedtopsofbare- and enjoyment. Chemistrywould develop synthetic fibers
midriffplavelothes with flaring skirts. Baby-doll and bal- and textile finishes for apparel requiring minimal care.
lerinaflat-heeledshoescomplementedthenew widehem- Sportswearinthesenew fabricswouldremainthemainstay
lines, with ankle-strap platform shoes worn with seamless ofwardrobes. Searscontinuedtomaintainitstime-honored
nylon stockings the fashionable alternative. tradition ofproviding Americans with well-made, afford-
Servicemen returningtocivilian lifewantedanew look, able, attractive attire. A succinct comment by William C.
too. Wearv ofuniforms and uniformity, thev favored suits Browning,aclothingmanufacturer, acenturyearlieronthe
with generous amounts of fabric in the drape of broad- relationshipbetweendemocracyanddressisaperfectdefi-
shoulderedjackets. Trouserssportedcuffs,generouspleats nitionofSearsscontributiontoAmericansocietyandmight
and deep patch pockets. Sports coats and "loafer jackets well have served as its credo
satisfied the desire for casual, comfortable apparel. Boys
knickers finally disappeared in favoroflongpants as their And if it be true . . . that the condition of a people is
clothingbecame identical to theirfathers'. indicated by its clothing, Americas place in the scale of
Western-style ranch clothing and California beachwear civilized lands is a high one We have provided not alone
enjoyed equal success with both sexes. Denim was firmly abundant clothing at a moderate cost for all classes and
established as the sportswear preference for the entire citizensbutwehavegiventhem, atthesametimethest\le
family. Bv 1949 the cowboy influence prevailed, as Boy andcharacterindressthatisessentialtotheself-respectofa
inc. democratic people.
Bogersjeansandjackets, suspenderdungareesfortoddlers
—
and rolled-up pedal pushers the postwar suburban uni-
—
form forteens dominated the pagesofthe catalog.
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