A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page i E s s e n t i a l s o f Oceanography A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page ii A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page iii E s s e n t i a l s o f Oceanography TENTH EDITION Alan P. Trujillo DISTINGUISHED TEACHING PROFESSOR PALOMAR COLLEGE Harold V. Thurman PROFESSOR EMERITUS MT. 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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Trujillo,Alan P. Essentials of oceanography / Al Trujillo,Harold Thurman. 10th ed. p.cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN-13:978-0-321-66812-7 (alk.paper) ISBN-10:0-321-66812-X (alk.paper) 1. Oceanography. I.Thurman,Harold V.II.Title. GC11.2.T49 2011 551.46 dc22 2009047666 Printed in the United States 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 ISBN-10:0-321-66812-X / ISBN-13:978-0-321-66812-7 (Student Edition) ISBN-10:0-321-70224-7 / ISBN-13:978-0-321-70224-1 (Books á la Carte) A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page v To my loyal and faithful companion Hawthorn Al Trujillo For Deb and Bill Hal Thurman About Our Sustainability Initiatives This book is carefully crafted to minimize environmental impact. The materials used to manufac- ture this book originated from sources committed to responsible forestry practices. The paper is Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified. The printing, binding, cover, and paper come from facilities that minimize waste, energy con- sumption, and the use of harmful chemicals. Pearson closes the loop by recycling every out-of-date text returned to our warehouse. We pulp the books, and the pulp is used to produce items such as paper coffee cups and shopping bags. In addition, Pearson aims to become the first climate neutral educational publishing company. The future holds great promise for reducing our impact on Earths environment, and Pearson is proud to be leading the way. We strive to publish the best books with the most up-to-date and accurate content, and to do so in ways that minimize our impact on Earth. FPO A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page vi ABOUT THE AUTHORS ALAN P. TRUJILLO Al Trujillo is a professor in the Earth,Space,and Aviation Sciences Department at Palomar College in San Marcos,California.He received his bachelors degree in geology from the University of California atDavis and his masters degree in geology from Northern Arizona University, afterwards working for several years in industry as a developmental geologist,hydrogeolo- gist, and computer specialist.Al began teaching at Palomar in 1990. In 1997, he was awarded Palomars Distinguished Faculty Award for Excellence in Teaching and in 2005 he received Palomars Faculty Research Award.He has co-authored Introductory Oceanographywith Hal Thurman and is a contributing author for the textbooks Earth and Earth Science. In addition to writing and teaching,Al works as a naturalist and lecturer aboard natural history expedition vessels in Alaska and the Sea of Cortez/Baja California.His research interests include beach processes,sea cliff erosion,and computer applications in oceanog- raphy.As a hobby,he collects sand and is a member of the International Sand Collectors Society;he also serves as the organizations Oceanography Division Advisor.Al and his wife,Sandy,have two children,Karl and Eva. HAROLD V. THURMAN Hal Thurman retired in May 1994,after 24 years of teaching in the Earth Sciences Department at Mt.San Antonio College in Walnut,California.In- terest in geology led to a bachelors degree from Oklahoma A&M University,followed by seven years working as a petroleum geologist,mainly in the Gulf of Mexico,where his interest in the oceans developed. He earned a masters degree from California State University at Los Angeles and then joined the Earth Sciences faculty at Mt.San Antonio College.Other books that Hal has co-authored include Introductory Oceanographywith Alan Trujillo as well as a marine biology textbook.He has also written articles on the Pa- cific,Atlantic,Indian,and Arctic Oceans for the 1994 edition of World Book Encyclope- dia and served as a consultant on the National Geographic publication Realms of the Sea.He still enjoys going to sea on vacations with his wife,Iantha. vi A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page vii BRIEF CONTENTS Preface xvii Introduction xxi 1 Introduction to Planet Earth 2 2 Plate Tectonics and the Ocean Floor 34 3 Marine Provinces 74 4 Marine Sediments 96 5 Water and Seawater 128 6 Air Sea Interaction 160 7 Ocean Circulation 192 8 Waves and Water Dynamics 230 9 Tides 260 10 The Coast: Beaches and Shoreline Processes 284 11 The Coastal Ocean 312 12 Marine Life and the Marine Environment 344 13 Biological Productivity and Energy Transfer 370 14 Animals of the Pelagic Environment 404 15 Animals of the Benthic Environment 436 16 The Oceans and Climate Change 468 Afterword 496 Appendix I Metric and English Units Compared 500 Appendix II Geographic Locations 504 Appendix III Latitude and Longitude on Earth 506 Appendix IV A Chemical Background: Why Water Has 2 Hs and 1 O 509 Appendix V Careers in Oceanography 513 Glossary 517 Credits and Acknowledgments 536 Index 542 vii A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 10:50 PM Page viii A01_TRUJ8127_10_SE_FM.QXD 1/22/10 11:19 PM Page ix CONTENTS Preface xvii Chapter in Review 32 Key Terms 32 To the Student xvii Review Questions 33 To the Instructor xvii Critical Thinking Exercises 33 Whats New in This Edition? xviii Oceanography on the Web 33 The New Instructional Package xix Acknowledgments xix INTRODUCTION xxi I.1 What Is Oceanography? xxi I.2 How Are Earths Oceans Unique? xxiii I.3 What Is Rational Use of Technology? xxiv 1 INTRODUCTION TO PLANET EARTH 2 CHAPTER AT A GLANCE 3 1.1 How Many Oceans Exist on Earth? 3 The Four Principal Oceans,Plus One 3 Oceans versus Seas:What Are the Seven Seas? 4 1.2 How was Early Exploration of the Oceans Achieved? 6 Early History 6 BOX 1.1 HISTORICAL FEATURE Voyages to Inner Space: Visiting the Deep-Ocean Floor in Submersibles 7 BOX 1.2 HISTORICAL FEATURE How Do Sailors Know Where They Are at Sea?: From Stick Charts to Satellites 8 The Middle Ages 11 The Age of Discovery in 2 PLATE TECTONICS AND THE OCEAN Europe 12 The Beginning of Voyaging for Science 13 History of Oceanography. . . To Be Continued 14 FLOOR 34 1.3 What Is the Nature of Scientific Inquiry? 14 CHAPTER AT A GLANCE 35 Observations 15 Hypothesis 15 Testing 15 2.1 What Evidence Supports Continental Drift? 35 Theory 16 Theories and the Truth 16 Fit of the Continents 36 Matching Sequences 1.4 How Were Earth and the Solar System Created? 16 of Rocks and Mountain Chains 36 Glacial Ages The Nebular Hypothesis 17 Protoearth 17 and Other Climate Evidence 37 Distribution of Density and Density Stratification 19 Earths Internal Organisms 37 Objections to the Continental Drift Structure 20 Model 39 1.5 How Were Earths Atmosphere and Oceans 2.2 What Evidence Supports Plate Tectonics? 39 Created? 23 Earths Magnetic Field and Paleomagnetism 40 Origin of Earths Atmosphere 23 Origin of Earths BOX 2.1 RESEARCH METHODS IN OCEANOGRAPHY Do Sea Oceans 23 Turtles (and other Animals) use Earths Magnetic Field for 1.6 Did Life Begin in the Oceans? 24 Navigation? 43 The Importance of Oxygen to Life 24 Stanley Millers Sea Floor Spreading and Features of the Ocean Experiment 25 Basins 44 Other Evidence from the Ocean BOX 1.3 HISTORICAL FEATURE The Voyage of HMS Beagle: Basins 46 The Acceptance of a Theory 48 How It Shaped Charles Darwins Thinking about the Theory of 2.3 What Features Occur at Plate Boundaries? 50 Evolution 26 Divergent Boundary Features 51 Convergent Boundary Evolution and Natural Selection 26 Plants and Features 55 Animals Evolve 27 BOX 2.2 RESEARCH METHODS IN OCEANOGRAPHY 1.7 How Old Is Earth? 30 The NEPTUNE Project: An Interactive Sea Floor Observatory 58 Radiometric Age Dating 30 The Geologic Time Scale 31 Transform Boundary Features 60 ix
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