Espresso Coffee, Second Edition: The Science of Quality

417 Pages·2005·3.93 MB·English

by  Andrea Illy

Espresso Coffee
The Science of Quality
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Espresso Coffee
The Science of Quality
Second edition
Edited by
ANDREA ILLY
and
RINANTONIO VIANI
with the assistance of Furio Suggi Liverani
Thisbookisprintedonacid-freepaper
Firstpublished1995
Secondedition2005
Copyright#1995,2005,Illycaffe` s.p.a.Allrightsreserved.
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Contents
Contributors ix
Acknowledgements xvii
1 Quality 1
A. Illy
1.1 Origins and meanings of quality 1
1.2 Definition of quality 2
1.3 Commercial quality 3
1.4 Quality of food products 7
1.5 The experience of coffee consumption 10
1.6 The quality of espresso coffee 15
1.7 Definition of espresso 16
1.8 Conclusions 19
References 20
2 The plant 21
F. Anzueto, T.W. Baumann, G. Graziosi, C.R. Piccin,
M.R. So¨ndahl and H.A.M. van der Vossen
2.1 Origin, production and botany 21
2.2 Variety development 29
2.3 Agronomy 34
2.4 Biochemical ecology 55
2.5 Molecular genetics of coffee 67
References 76
3 The raw bean 87
S. Bee, C.H.J. Brando, G. Brumen, N. Carvalhaes,
I. Ko¨lling-Speer, K. Speer, F. Suggi Liverani, A.A. Teixeira,
R. Teixeira, R.A. Thomaziello, R. Viani and O.G. Vitzthum
3.1 Introduction 87
3.2 Harvesting 87
3.3 Processing of the harvest 91
3.4 Drying 96
vi Contents
3.5 Final processing for export and roasting 101
3.6 Logistics 108
3.7 Defects 116
3.8 Classification: physical and sensorial analysis 134
3.9 Blending 141
3.10 Decaffeination 142
3.11 Raw bean composition 148
References and further reading 166
4 Roasting 179
B. Bonnla¨nder, R. Eggers, U.H. Engelhardt and H.G. Maier
4.1 The process 179
4.2 Roasting techniques 184
4.3 Changes produced by roasting 191
4.4 Volatile aroma compounds 197
4.5 Melanoidins 204
4.6 Contaminants 209
References 209
5 Grinding 215
M. Petracco
5.1 Theory of fracture mechanics 216
5.2 Coffee grinders 218
5.3 Methods for measuring ground product fineness 221
5.4 Parameters influencing grinding 224
5.5 Physico-chemical modifications due to grinding 227
References 229
6 Storage and packaging 230
M.C. Nicoli and O. Savonitti
6.1 Physical and chemical changes of roasted coffee during
storage 230
6.2 Packaging of roasted coffee 245
References 255
7 Percolation 259
M. Petracco
7.1 Conceptual definitions 259
7.2 Physical and chemical characterization of the percolation
process 261
7.3 Modelling of the percolation process 266
7.4 The espresso machine 270
Contents vii
7.5 Parameters influencing percolation 274
References 287
8 The cup 290
M. Petracco
8.1 Physical and chemical characterization of the espresso
beverage 290
8.2 Organoleptic characteristics of espresso (practical aspects) 300
8.3 Espresso definition again 310
8.4 Espresso–milk mixes 311
References 313
9 Physiology of perception 316
R. Cappuccio
9.1 Introduction 316
9.2 Gustation 317
9.3 Olfaction 325
9.4 Human chemosensory psychophysics 332
References 345
10 Coffee consumption and health 352
M. Petracco and R. Viani
10.1 Consumption patterns 353
10.2 Coffee is more than caffeine 357
10.3 Coffee is beneficial to health 357
10.4 Coffee is not harmful to health 365
10.5 Conclusions 369
References 369
Closing remarks 384
E. Illy
Index 385
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Contributors
Francisco Anzueto graduated in 1978 in Agronomy in Guatemala and
obtainedadoctorateinCoffeePlantBreedinginFrancein1993.Hewas
regional director of Anacafe from 1978 until 1986, where he is now
research director. He holds a professorship at Landivar University in
Guatemala. He has been co-manager or director of several regional
research programs in Central America. He is the co-author of many
scientific papers.
Thomas W. Baumann received his scientific education in Medicine and
Biology at the University of Zurich, which he completed in 1969. After
training in Molecular Biology at the University of Zurich he became
ResearchAssistantattheInstituteofPlantBiologyofthesameuniversity,
where he was ‘infected’ for the first time with coffee while chemically
analysing and establishing tissue cultures of several species of Coffea.
AfterpostdoctoralstudiesattheUniversityofSouthernCalifornia(Allan
Hancock Foundation) in Los Angeles in 1972 and 1973, he returned to
the Institute of Plant Biology, where he continued his phytochemical
work on coffee and other caffeine-containing plant species. In 1977 he
became Docent, and 1995 Professor, of Plant Physiology. His research
focused on the biosynthesis and ecological significance of caffeine and
relatedpurinealkaloids.Healsostudiedtheecologicalchemistryofother
plant genera, such as Physalis, Echinacea and Catharanthus, until
retirement in 2001. His hobbies are scientific writing and gardening. In
2001hepublishedtogetherwithhiswifeavoluminousbiographyofHenri
Pittier, the ‘Humboldt of Switzerland’ (Basle: Friedrich Reinhardt
Verlag). At his home near Zurich he houses a living collection of almost
all caffeine-containing species consumed in the world. Currently, he is
workingonabookdealingwiththevariousfacetsoflittle-knownfruitsof
the Neotropics.
Sarah Bee is a radiation physicist with a doctorate from University
College London, UK. She is a Chartered Physicist and Member of the
Institute of Physics. Since 1998 she has been Engineering Product