Epic Bike Rides of the World

166 Pages·2016·257.6 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

E P I C B I K E
R I D E S
of the
WOR L D
Explore the planet’s most thrilling cycling routes
Easy Harder Epic
CO N T E N T S
INTRODUCTION 04 EUROPE 164
Bavarian Beer Ride (Germany) 166
AFRICA 06 Down The Danube (Austria) 172
Tour d’Afrique 08 Monte Amiata (Italy) 178
Riding the Rif (Morocco) 14 The Bryan Chapman Memorial (Wales) 184
Pedalling the Spanish Picos 190
AMERICAS 20 Climbing Mt Ventoux (France) 196
Cuba’s Southern Rollercoaster 22 Beating the Birkebeinerrittet (Norway) 202
To the Tip of Patagonia (Argentina) 28 West Cork’s Wild Coast, (Ireland) 208
The Natchez Trace Parkway (USA) 36 A Corsican Challenge (France) 214
A Circuit of San Juan Island (USA) 42 Circling Lake Constance (Switzerland/Germany/Austria) 220
Family Bikepacking in Ecuador 48 Sierra Nevada Traverse (Spain) 226
Colorado Beer Bike Tour (USA) 56 The South Downs Way (England) 232
North America’s Pacific Coast (USA) 62 Arty Copenhagen Cruise (Denmark) 238
Mountain Biking in Moab (USA) 68 Around the Île de Ré (France) 244
Ride the Whitehorse Trails (Canada) 74 The Tour of Flanders (Belgium) 250
Courtesy Bridge Road Brewers TBTVMhhauaeenen cnMChooaousin tvvAuteeatirrrene eam dsCn’ a BdiBnrr ci WikBudemighk Peeinsaswatt lavoheiysfrg V((a(CUAetirraoSmgnnAeo a)n(n dUttia nS()aUA )S) A ) 118009880642 FTIAnrhlotle omA Ctl hoSéenev gaeO nttuhnotee eS srLe: o HaRir eie(dbE i(nrnFigdgra elatnshn ce(deS R))c i odtelar n(Fdr)a nce) 222265676842
© Julian Love; ASIA 112 BOeCaEcAhNesIA a n d Bicycles in Adelaide (Australia) 228802
Munro, Mai Chau Cycle Ride (Vietnam) 114 The Old Ghost Road (New Zealand) 288
Matt Bikepacking in Mongolia 120 Australia’s Atherton Tablelands 294
Gilbert, © CHyigchli ning tthhee HSeimtoa Ilanlyaan (dI nSdeiaa) ( Japan) 112384 TThhee AMcuhnedroan B Widadyi T(rAauils (trAaulisatr)a lia) 330006
© Cass Bhutanese Dragon Ride 140 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail (New Zealand) 312
m top: Mae Hong Son Circuit (Thailand) 146 Tasmania’s Wild West (Australia) 318
Clockwise fro SCrhi iLnaan’sk aWni lSdi gWhetsset e ing 115582 INDEX 324
- EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD -
I N T RO D U C T I O N
Ask a dozen cycling writers for their most memorable bike hours, others a day or two, a week, or more than a month. We’ve
rides and you get many more than a dozen answers. usually not tried to specify times the rides might take beyond the
For some, biking was purely about escapism and distance involved – everybody is different; take as long as required.
involved nothing more complicated than packing some Instead, we’ve given a general indication of whether a ride is
sandwiches and meandering into the distance with the wind at easy (in terms of terrain, distance, conditions or climate) or more
their backs. One or two went a little further and, GPS unit in hand, challenging (bigger hills, longer distances, fewer cake shops). The
ventured into the wilds of Patagonia and the Himalaya, powered most important point of these stories is to inspire you to get your
by nothing more than their legs and a desire to see what was bike out (dusting it off and pumping up the tyres first if need be)
around the next corner. and explore somewhere new with the wind in your hair.
Those writers with families recommended flat and accessible Cycling is the perfect mode of transport for the travel-lover,
loops around traffic-free islands or along river paths. A few allowing us to cover more ground than if we were on foot, but
contributors preferred to case themselves in skin-tight Lycra and without the barriers that a car imposes. We are immersed in our
seek out heart-pounding ascents, making ardent pilgrimages to the surroundings, self-powered, independent, and forever pondering
sites of classic races to pay their respects. Mountain-biking writers the question ‘I wonder what’s over there?’. The bike rider is free to
wrote of thrills and spills on rugged trails on every continent. And follow a whim, discover the limits of their endurance, or stop and
more than a few authors agreed that a good ride wasn’t complete settle for while. Hopefully, this book will prove that there’s no better
without a beer or two afterwards with old friends or new. way of simply experiencing a place, a culture and its people than
What was clear, though, is that everybody has their personal by bicycle. And as some of these tales tell, arriving on a bicycle
interpretation of ‘epic’. You can have an epic adventure straight opens doors, literally and figuratively.
from your front door and be back in time for tea. Or you can follow
in the tyre tracks of adventurer Alastair Humphreys and pedal HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
around the world, through 60 countries, for four years. The main stories in each regional chapter feature first-hand
This book attempts to reflect that diversity and those varying accounts of fantastic bike rides in that continent. Each includes
levels of commitment. We can’t all take a sabbatical for cycling! a toolkit to enable the planning of a trip – when is the best time
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and dreamiest islands. Some of these rides take just a couple of collects different types of ride for a variety of interests. © Cass
4

- EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD -

T H E TO U R
D’A FR I Q U E
Tour d’Afrique lives up to its name: a ride across the entire continent
of Africa. It’s tough on the bike and gruelling on the body.
Through stinging beads of sweat I looked ahead and the
road shimmered into the distance – a thin grey line with START
endless plains of sand on either side. We’d cycled 50 miles
EGYPT
(80km) so far and had the same distance to go. The sun
was beating down, and the desert wind was relentless. It was
like riding into a hairdryer. With added grit. What a crazy place
to go cycling.
This was my first day on the Tour d’Afrique, a long-distance SUDAN
race from Cairo to Cape Town, Africa’s traditional northern and
southern extremities. This annual test of endurance covers around
7500 miles (around 12,000km) divided into eight stages of 14 days,
ETHIOPIA
giving four months to ride the continent end-to-end. And while
some pedal the whole distance, those with less time can ride just
a stage – which is no mean feat in itself. There’s also a team relay KENYA
option, and in 2009 I was part of a Lonely Planet team, with two
riders completing each stage then handing on the baton. TANZANIA
The Tour d’Afrique starts at one of Africa’s best-known
landmarks, the Pyramids of Giza, on the edge of Cairo. After
obligatory photos in front of the giant monuments, and one for luck
in front of the Sphinx, the peloton heads south to begin its epic ZAMBIA MALAWI
journey. Route details change each year, as new roads are built or
borders close, or when countries become too volatile to visit, but NAMIBIA ZIMBABWE
the Tour d’Afrique follows pretty much the same overall pattern.
BOTSWANA
From the Egyptian capital, riders head to the Red Sea then follow
the coast road before tracking inland to reach the Nile Valley and mages
cycle through a landscape of palm trees and crop fields that have Getty I
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AFRICA 8
- EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD - - EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD -
through the Nubian Desert, an eastern extension of the Sahara. In
this remote part of Africa, where travel is hard at the best of times,
cycling adds an extra level of endurance and excitement. CAIRO TO CAPE
In Khartoum my own adventure began, as I joined a Lonely TOWN RECORD
Planet teammate on that heat-soaked highway through the endless BREAKERS
desert landscape. Distances between towns were long, so we
often stopped for a drink and a rest at basic roadhouses, some The first Tour d’Afrique
little more than a lonely shack surrounded by sand. We enjoyed in 2003 set a new
small glasses of sweet black tea, and an unexpected bonus was benchmark in long-
the availability of glucose biscuits. Together they kept us fuelled for distance cycling
another hour or two of tough cycling. events, and also set
From Sudan we crossed the border into Ethiopia. Almost a new world record,
immediately, the flat desert changed to a fertile landscape of with nine riders
green rolling hills, and dead-straight roads gave way to frequent cycling from Cairo
bends as we climbed into the Ethiopian Highlands, a range of to Cape Town in
mountains sometimes dubbed the Roof of Africa. 120 days. Over the
From the vantage points of the bikes, we were able to see following decade, the
local people working in the fields, kids going to school, everyone record was reduced
just getting on with daily life. We were also joined by a group of by several solo
Ethiopian cyclists, and a highlight of the trip was riding alongside riders. In 2015 the
them as the dramatic scenery rolled past, chatting about life in record was broken by
Ethiopia and the finer points of the local bike-racing scene. British cyclist Mark Clockwise from top: Mt Kilimanjaro it’s an easy ride to Nairobi and on to Tanzania through a classic “On a bike it’s easier to see monkeys,
After Ethiopia, the Tour d’Afrique goes to Kenya. The route may Beaumont, covering in Tanzania; carrying cargo by African landscape of savanna grasslands dotted with flat-topped
giraffes, zebras and other wild animals
be out of the mountains, but the cycling gets even harder with a around 6718 mile bike; feluccas on the Nile; flowering acacia trees. On a bike it’s easier to see monkeys, giraffes, zebras
traverse of the arid Dida Galgalu Desert. When the Lonely Planet (around 10,812km) landscapes. Previous page: the Simien and other wild animals that car-drivers might miss, and the vista is that car-drivers might miss”
team were here in 2009, a freak rainstorm turned dirt roads into in a brisk 41 days, 10 mountains in Ethiopia further enhanced by the snow-covered peak of Kilimanjaro serving
mud. One of the riders later reported: ‘It was much more than just hours and 22 minutes. as a backdrop.
cycling. It was a matter of survival.’ The next port of call is Malawi. In this poor country bikes are
A day of climbing into the lush foothills of Mt Kenya comes as everywhere, metal beasts of burden carrying vast bundles of
a welcome relief, enhanced by crossing the Equator, from where firewood, piles of bricks, giant gas canisters, rolls of corrugated
iron, even beds. With locals and Tour d’Afrique riders having two
wheels in common, it’s the perfect opportunity to share a friendly TOOLKIT
wave or a few words of greeting.
In Zambia, long straight roads cut through a vast empty country Start // Cairo, Egypt
to reach yet another classic African landmark, Victoria Falls, where End // Cape Town, South Africa
the Zambezi River plummets into a gorge, sending up a cloud of Distance // Approx 7500 miles (approx. 12,000km). The
spray that can be seen from far away; a very welcome sight at the route varies but usually goes via Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya,
end of a hard day’s cycling. Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia. Riders
Beyond the Zambezi are the relatively developed countries of can opt to do the race (with competitive sections most days)
Botswana and Namibia, but easy conditions are offset by long or the ‘expedition’ (which means just taking part).
days in the saddle, including the approx. 129-mile (approx. 208km) Duration // Covering the entire distance requires
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AFRICA 10 11 The Tour D’Afrique
- EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD -
Opposite: the switchback turns of
the Sani Pass in Lesotho
M O R E L I K E T H I S
AFRIC AN RIDES
KILIMANJARO CIRCUIT, TANZANIA SANI PASS, SOUTH MASSAWA TO ASMARA, ERITREA
AFRICA TO LESOTHO
If you’ve got more time to spare after Of all Africa’s countries, Eritrea has the
tackling the Tour d’Afrique, a challenging The Drakensberg range forms a line of richest cycling heritage, thanks to Italian
option is the loop around the base of jagged peaks and steep valleys stretching colonial influence, and today it’s the
Africa’s best-known mountain, Kilimanjaro, in an arc though the eastern part of South national sport, with a thriving race calendar
a distance of 146 miles (235km). A good Africa. Sitting at the top of this mountain that includes the Tour of Eritrea. Get a
start point is Moshi, a popular base for chain is Lesotho, a separate country, taste of it by tackling the spectacular
trekkers, and the route goes via Sanyaa Juu sometimes called the ‘Kingdom in the climb from the port city of Massawa
and Tarakea. It’s well off tourist itineraries, Sky’ thanks to its lofty location. Forcing a up to Asmara, the capital. Sometimes
so you’ll need a tent. Roads are a mix of route up this precipice is the Sani Pass, billed as ‘Eritrea’s Mortirolo’, a nod to
terrible dirt and perfect tar, with everything a tortuous gravel track linking the two the infamously rugged Alpine pass, it’s
in between, while numerous rivers mean countries, and a cycling challenge. You a winding snake of a road with steep
plenty of valleys to cross, so this is not a start at the small town of Himeville and gradients and hairpin bends, plus dizzying
trip for the faint-hearted. follow the road (tar at first, then dirt), drops and great views over the sandy
Start/End // Moshi gradually climbing to the South African plains below. The first 26 miles (42km) is
Distance // 146 miles (235km) border post. Then it’s dirt all the way, a fairly flat (but very hot) then the bulk of the
constant grind, with ramps increasingly ascent, over 2000m, is in the next 41 miles
sheer, and turns increasingly tight, to (66km). Currently, Eritrea’s government is
finally reach the Lesotho border post at cited by human rights organisations as one
the summit. Temperatures can be baking of the most oppressive in the world, which
hot, or freezing cold. Either way, thirst can may deter travellers, but when the tide
be quenched at the nearby Sani Mountain turns, add the Massawa–Asmara road to
Lodge, which claims to be the highest pub your bucket list. mages
in Africa. Start // Massawa Getty I
Start // Himeville, South Africa End // Asmara msberg |
EDnisdt a//n Lcees /o/t 2h3o mboilredse (r37km) Distance // 67 miles (108km) © Edwin Re
AFRICA 12
- EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD -
R I D I N G
T H E R I F
Northern Morocco’s Rif Mountains aren’t on most cyclists’ bucket lists.
The riding and culture can be taxing, but epic isn’t meant to be easy!
Ihave a love-hate relationship with hills. I’m big on the Mountains, which parallel the Mediterranean coast of northern
cycling challenge, mostly in principle, and I love the reward, Morocco and include several significant climbs. I pondered how the
especially in practice. As I make long ascents, though, I lose Rif isn’t particularly sought out for cycling or, really, any standard
enthusiasm and tend to abandon the two-wheeler’s don’t- form of tourism; but as I was on the first leg of a nine-month,
stop dictum. And while I lament the added burden of gear-filled counterclockwise bicycle circumnavigation of the Mediterranean
panniers — a necessity for self-supported, multi-day pedals into Sea, from Morocco to Gibraltar, geography had dictated my path.
mountainous places with limited food availability, poor-quality Also top of mind was how the Rif, home to large kif (aka
amenities, meagre mechanical backup and unreliable alternative cannabis) plantations, is perhaps best known for its primary export:
transportation — I depend on it as an excuse when I slow down hashish. Over the decades, this has been both a magnet for and
and, yes, even stop. source of friction with tourists. Young backpackers and hippies have
This was in my thoughts on my first days of riding in the Rif long trooped here to avail themselves of the product, even though
START
TANGIER TETOUAN
AL-HOCEIMA
CHEFCHAOUEN KENTAAATML-IOHAONACLE IPMAARK KASSITA NADOR FISNAISÏDHIA © David Santiago Garcia | Getty Images
AFRICA 14
- EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD - - EPIC BIKE RIDES OF THE WORLD -
MOROCCAN
FOOD TIPS
Roadside stalls have
slim pickings, but
tourism-ready towns
promise Morocco’s
best foods: couscous,
tagines, such grilled
meats as méchoui
(lamb), fried sardines,
harira (soup), salads
including zaalouk,
shakshouka and more.
Tagines and couscous
are often only served
at home for special
occasions, so accept
any invitations. And try
street foods, such as
ksra (anise flatbread), Left to right: Chefchaouen;
sfenj (deep-fried a Berber family; the Straits of
doughnuts) and kefta Gibraltar; stocking up in the
smoking it is illegal. Unfortunately, that means anyone visiting the “We glided on usually good pavement mouths wasn’t ‘as-salamu alaykum’ (a standard greeting in (meat seasoned with medina of Tetouan. Previous page:
Rif Mountains today is assumed to be interested in buying hashish. Arabic) or ‘makh dith?’ (‘how are you?’ in northern Berber dialect), ras el-hanout spices). the blue town of Chefchaouen
through valleys of cedar trees, sweated up
Sellers and touts are constantly pressing their case, sometimes to it was ‘hashish?’ Few would accept a single ‘no’. One young
the point of harassment. Drugs trigger other criminal behavior too, hillsides and swept thrillingly down” tout jogged alongside us – up a tough hill – for several miles,
especially smuggling, so police checkpoints are common. determined to make a sale. Another proffered a grapefruit-size ball
These are important reality checks when pondering a ride in the of congealed hash oil. A Mercedes even followed slowly behind us
region. But while it may not seem all that conducive to cycling, the when it stayed within view of the sea through hot and arid undulating for a while; it eventually turned back without a word or a wave.
gorgeous mountain scenery, challenging and changeable terrain lands flanked by the Beni-Snassen Mountains. In fact, besides road But those quirky moments of awkwardness and suspicion TOOLKIT
on fairly good-quality and uncrowded roads, and glimpses of construction, pass-clinging clouds, lowland midday heat and police were far less common than the locals’ displays of generosity
typical Moroccan life away from the touristy commercial hubs make checkpoints, the external obstacles were few. We glided on usually and befuddled curiosity. At roadside stands, where we guzzled Start // Tangier
for something genuinely different and extremely appealing. The Rif good pavement through valleys of cedar trees, sweated along rolling cold Orange Crush soda or sipped mint tea, our round-the- End // Saïdia
is worth the journey as long as you’re steeled and ready for polite deforested hillsides, slogged up to and then thrillingly down from high Mediterranean project elicited amazed reactions. While we were Distance // approx. 373 miles (600km)
and purposeful self-sufficiency, not to mention some discomfort, as elevations, and sliced through coastal headwinds, all while marveling snacking, another Mercedes discharged some official-looking Getting there // Tangier-Ibn Battouta Airport, located 7½
the food and lodging along the way can be basic. at sweeping vistas and seeking the unseen sources of lamb bleats, gents (who we thereafter nicknamed ‘the diplomats’) who simply miles (12km) southwest of Tangier, is used by Royal Air Maroc,
Our path took us east from world-famous Tangier to relaxed, cow bells and echoing calls to prayer. wanted to know where we were from and how the biking was. easyJet, Ryanair, Air Nostrum (Iberia Regional) and more.
seaside Saïdia on the Algerian border, via Tétouan and blue- That isn’t to say the roads were empty. While motorised traffic mages And at our overnight stops, someone usually took us under Where to stay // A mix of accommodation is available in
painted Chefchaouen, both known for their bustling medinas, wasn’t frequent, it was hardly absent. There was also almost Getty I his wing and made us feel welcome. This was even the case larger centres, such as Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Al-
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AFRICA 16 17 Riding the Rif