Entertaining: Recipes and Inspirations for Gathering with Family and Friends

354 Pages·2012·122.242 MB·English

by  Abigail Kirsch, Culinary Institute of America

ENTERTAINING
JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.
the CULINARY INSTITUTE of AMERICA
enterta ining
RECIPES AND INSPIRATIONS
FOR GATHERING WITH
FAMILY AND FRIENDS
ABIGAIL KIRSCH
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BEN FINK
This book is printed on acid-free paper.
Copyright © 2012 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
Photography by Ben Fink
Cover image: Ben Fink
Cover and interior design: Vertigo Design NYC
The Culinary Institute of America
President Dr. Tim Ryan ’77
Provost Mark Erickson ’77
Associate Vice President - Branch Campuses Susan Cussen
Director of Publishing Nathalie Fischer
Editorial Project Manager Mary Donovan ‘83
Editorial Assistant Shelly Malgee ’08
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey.
Published simultaneously in Canada.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States
Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-
copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978–750–8400, fax [phone], or on the
web at www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley
& Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201–748–6011, fax [phone], or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they
make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically
disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended
by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situ-
ation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of
profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
For general information on our other products and services, or technical support, please contact our Customer Care De-
partment within the United States at 800–762–2974, outside the United States at 317–572–3993 or fax [phone].
Wiley publishes in a variety of print and electronic formats and by print-on-demand. Some material included
with standard print versions of this book may not be included in e-books or in print-on-demand. If this book re-
fers to media such as a CD or DVD that is not included in the version you purchased, you may download this ma-
terial at http://booksupport.wiley.com. For more information about Wiley products, visit www.wiley.com.
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA:
Kirsch, Abigail.
Entertaining: Recipes and Inspirations for Gathering with Family and Friends /
Abigail Kirsch ; photographs by Ben Fink.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN 978-0-470-42132-1 (cloth); ISBN 978-1-118-32992-4 (ebk);
ISBN 978-1-118-33219-1 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-33269-6 (ebk)
1. Entertaining. 2. Cooking. I. Culinary Institute of America.
II. Title.
TX731.K527 2012
642'.4--dc23
2012004356
Printed in China
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ENTERTAINING
any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but
not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
This book is printed on acid-free paCper. O N TFor geEneral inNformatioTn on ouSr other products and services,
Copyright © 2012 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights or technical support, please contact our Customer Care De-
reserved partment within the United States at 800–762–2974, outside
•the United States at 317–572–3993 or fax [phone].
Photography by Ben Fink
Wiley publishes in a variety of print and electronic formats and
Cover image: Ben Fink by print-on-demand. Some material included with standard
Cover and interior design: Vertigo Design NYC print versions of this book may not be included in e-books or
INTROinD pUriCnTt-IoOn-Nde m vaind. If this book refers to media such as a CD
The Culinary Institute of America or DVD that is not included in the version you purchased, you
President may download this material at http://booksupport.wiley.com. For

Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 CmHAorPeT iEnRfo 1rmation about Wiley products, visit www.wiley.com.
Provost Planning Your Party 1
Mark Erickson ’77
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA:
Associate Vice President - Branch Kirsch, Abigail.

Campuses CEHnAtePrTtEaRin 2ing: Recipes and Inspirations for Gathering with
Susan Cussen Hors d’Oeuvre and FingerF Famoiloy dansd F 3r1iends /
Director of Publishing Abigail Kirsch ; photographs by Ben Fink.
Nathalie Fischer p. cm.
Editorial Project Manager CHAPTER 3 Includes index.
Mary Donovan ‘83 The Fi r IsSBt NC 9o78u-0r-s47e0 - 4 925132-1 (cloth); ISBN 978-1-118-32992-4
Editorial Assistant (ebk);
Shelly Malgee ’08 ISBN 978-1-118-33219-1 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-118-33269-6

CHAPTER 4 (ebk)
Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey.
The Main1 . C Enotuerrtasinein g 1. 22.5 Cooking. I. Culinary Institute of
Published simultaneously in Canada. America.
II. Title.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a CHAPTER 5 TX731.K527 2012
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, 642'.4--dc23
Casual Foods 170
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or 2012004356
otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of
the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior Printed in China
CHAPTER 6
written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through
payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the CopyrigBhtr Celeaark- fast and Brun1c0h 9 280 57 6 5 4 3 2 1
ance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923,
978–750–8400, fax [phone], or on the web at www.copy-

CHAPTER 7
right.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be
addressed to the Permissions Department, John WileSy &a Slaonds, s and Side Dishes 235
Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201–748–6011, fax
201–748–6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.

CHAPTER 8
Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisThehr e Last Course 271
and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book,
they make no representations or warranties with respect to
the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and
CHAPTER 9
specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability
Beverages 303
or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created
or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials.
The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable INDEX 333
for your situation. You should consult with a professional where
appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for
v
ENTERTAINING
INTRODUCTION
• Give your guests advance notice and a date by
which to RSVP.
I was asked recently if there was a “golden era” for home • Get as much shopping and cooking done ahead of
entertainment. For me, the answer is the 1950s and time as possible. Buy nonperishable goods far in
1960s. Some of us may still remember the dinner par- advance. Select a few cook-and-freeze dishes.
ties our parents hosted. As a society, we were more in
• “Imagine” the party in the days that lead up to it and
tune with the manners of an era when entertaining was
try to solve any problems that you think might crop
a more structured and formal affair. The house was pol-
up. You’ll be able to plan for stocking adequate ice
ished and decorated. The table was set with china and
and glassware, hiring help from bartenders to serv-
the best silver. Flowers and candles finished the effect.
ers if necessary, parking cars, and hanging coats, so
The host and hostess of ’50s and ’60s may not have had
that you can spend your time with your guests.
a household staff to help with parties, but that lack was
offset in two ways: Newly created convenience foods Entertaining ought to feel different from an everyday
made cooking less labor-intensive, and children were meal, but that doesn’t mean that a family gathering can’t
often pressed into service to pass trays of hors d’oeuvre be an occasion to enrich with special touches. Birthdays,
before the adults sat down to eat. anniversaries, graduations, promotions, bringing home a
The desire to entertain at home may not really have new baby, or even buying a new car—these are all impor-
fallen off that much, but attitudes toward entertaining tant events that deserve to be marked with a touch or two
have changed over the intervening years. Home enter- that elevates them above run-of-the-mill. And these low-
taining today offers some great advantages: Lifestyles are stress events boost your confidence as an entertainer.
generally more casual and relaxed, kitchens have a wider Sometimes you have the chance to plan ahead and
array of more sophisticated equipment, and markets and do it up “right” complete with handwritten invitations and
specialty shops offer a seemingly endless array of ethnic RSVPs. Some entertaining occasions may occur with little
and exotic goods from around the world, whether you are or no prior notice—an impromptu potluck when neigh-
looking for artisan chocolates for a tasting party or fenu- bors or friends happen to stop by in time for lunch, or
greek for a tandoori affair. dinner or a community picnic where everyone brings
Successful entertaining comes from confidence, and their favorite dish. Maybe you are hosting a book club or
confidence comes from knowing what you like to do. If a tasting party, or belong to a dinner club that meets at
you want to boost your confidence, follow these basic regular intervals. Whatever the reason for hosting a party,
guidelines: everyone can find an entertaining style that works for
them. An intelligently stocked pantry and freezer, a rep-
• Have a clear idea about why you are throwing a
ertoire of trusted recipes, a basic understanding of your
party.
capabilities and limitations, and a good plan—these are
• Choose a style, whether traditional, sophisticated,
the keys to being a “natural” at entertaining. This book
“cutting edge,” or casual.
takes on each of these aspects of entertaining so that you
• Know the capacity of your house and pick a party for- can concentrate on being the kind of host you want to be:
mat that works in your house. A formal dinner party gracious, welcoming, and relaxed.
calls for a table and chairs. With a buffet, guests may
eat standing or sitting in a chair (lap service).
• Assess your own cooking skills and the capacity of
your kitchen. Choose a menu that you can prepare
without stress (and get help with both cooking and
serving if you need to).
vi
ENTERTAINING
|
one PLANNING YOUR PARTY
To entertain a guest is to make yourself responsible for his
happiness so long as he is under your roof.
—BRILLAT-SAVARIN
E
NTERTAINING AT HOME CAN BE AS SIMPLE AS SERVING COFFEE AND CAKE OR AS ELAB-
ORATE AS THROWING AN AT-HOME WEDDING PARTY, COMPLETE WITH HORS D’OEUVRE,
COCKTAILS, AND AN ELEGANT FOUR-COURSE DINNER. SOME GATHERINGS ARE ALL ABOUT
CELEBRATING WITH FOOD: THANKSGIVING DINNER, A MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH, OR A DIN-
NER PARTY WITH FRIENDS. SOMETIMES, THE EVENT FOLLOWS A PRESCRIBED SEQUENCE OF
EVENTS, WITH FOOD AND DRINK AS A SUPPORTING THEME. WHETHER OR NOT THE FOOD
IS THE FOCUS, SERVING THOUGHTFULLY CHOSEN AND PERFECTLY PREPARED FOODS AND DRINKS IS THE HALL-
MARK OF A GREAT HOST OR HOSTESS. THROUGHOUT THIS BOOK, WE’VE EXAMINED THE DETAILS THAT GO INTO
SELECTING, PREPARING, PRESENTING, AND SERVING FOOD AND DRINK TO YOUR GUESTS. WE BEGIN BY TAKING
A LOOK AT SOME OF THE STYLES OF PARTIES YOU MIGHT UNDERTAKE AT HOME:
DIFFERENT PARTY STYLES
two to three hours and can range from very casual to
black-tie formal.
Cocktail Parties
For more about cocktails and other party beverages,
see chapter 9 (page 297). We’ve included checklists for
Most years I attend some sort of New Year’s Eve basic bar setups, an ice-calculating chart, and other tac-
event, usually a conventional dinner out with tics for hosts planning to serve alcoholic and nonalco-
colleagues or a casual get-together with friends from holic beverages.
college. Now a successful twenty-something with a
home of my own, I was ready to host my own New
Dinner Parties and Brunches
Year’s Eve extravaganza this year. I wanted a formal,
sophisticated feel without any of the traditional
We take turns choosing the book the group will focus
stuffiness, so I decided to build a retro lounge
on, and with our varied personalities, the selections
atmosphere on an offering of classic cocktails and
have ranged from light, superficial reads to more
glamorous décor.
intense, intellectual works. When my turn came
around, I selected Mario Puzo’s classic novel, The
A cocktail party is a great way to entertain anyone
Godfather. It was a riot—just four suburban moms
from new neighbors to close friends to business associ-
hashing out the nitty-gritty details of the violent
ates. Obviously the focus is on the cocktails and other
gangster story. We had a great time, and since I
drinks, but a variety of hors d’oeuvre or small-bite
have always loved the movie inspired by the book, I
snacks are usually served. Cocktail parties last around
2
ENTERTAINING