English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century: A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations

989 Pages·1990·34.72 MB·English

by  C. Willett Cunnington

ENGLISH WOMEN’S CLOTHING IN THE
NINETEENTH CENTURY
1874
Dinner dress of blue gros-grain and pink faille, trimmed with Valenciennes lace
ENGLISH WOMEN’S CLOTHING IN
THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
A Comprehensive Guide with 1,117 Illustrations
by
C. WILLETT
CUNNINGTON
DOVER PUBLICATIONS, INC.
New York
PREFACE
IN a work of this nature the illustrations are necessarily an important feature.
These are derived from various sources. Contemporary fashion-plates are
informative, but should be accepted as being slightly diagrammatical and
also as somewhat ahead of the current modes. During most of the century
they were of French origin, so that they are not, by themselves, reliable guides to
English fashions. I have tried to correct the balance by adding a certain number
of contemporary portraits and photographs. These tend to be somewhat behind
the fashions of the day and are often vague in their details. The colour-plates are
from specimens in my collection which have been photographed in colour by
Mr. P. Sansalvadore, to whom I am greatly indebted for the infinite trouble taken
to obtain the results shown in them. *
I should like to express my best thanks to Miss Mary Gardiner for her
accurate drawings from specimens in my collection, to illustrate technical details
which are not usually shown in fashion-plates.
The illustrations of headgear have been drawn by my wife, basing her
designs on contemporary plates. She is also responsible for the notes on that
branch of the subject.
I am much obliged to the proprietors of ‘The Queen’, ‘The Lady’ and
Messrs. Weldon for permission to use certain illustrations from their respective
publications.
There are many others to whom my grateful thanks are due for help in
preparing this book, in particular my secretary, Miss D. E. Coleman, by whose
patient labours numerous imperfections have been removed and omissions
repaired. By the courtesy of Messrs. Liberty & Co., Messrs. Burberry Ltd., and
others, much useful information has been put at my disposal. The curators of
museums throughout the country have been most kind in allowing me to
examine the specimens in their charge, and many private individuals have
likewise let me study their heirlooms.
But I am conscious that there is one whose claims to my gratitude are beyond
all others. Characteristically she has preserved a ladylike anonymity; indeed to
be publicly named would have shocked her nice standard of conduct; I will not
therefore commit that outrage. But I must hint that it was she, my unnamed
benefactress, who, in a material fashion, supplied not only the subject of this
book, but also the objects about which it deals. It was her personality they once
adorned. They reflect not merely her impression of passing events, but in a
subtle way they indicate her criticism. They are dumb witnesses against—God
help him!—the man of her times, for they were moulded according to the
standards he ordained. It is his ideals, therefore, which these cast clouts of hers
reveal. How cunningly they display the nature of the man in concealing that of
the woman! How precisely she always measured the length of his foot! It was by
such weapons that the Unknown Warrior of the nineteenth century won
countless victories. In admiration of her peculiar genius, then, it is surely proper
to dedicate this book to the immortal memory of the Victorian Lady.
*These plates are reproduced in black and white in the present edition.
CONTENTS
I. INTRODUCTION
II. THE VERTICAL EPOCH
III. THE DAWN OF ROMANCE 1822-1829
IV. FROM ROMANCE TO SENTIMENT IN THE ’30’s
V. THE GOTHIC ’40’s
VI. THE ’50’s
VII. THE ’60’s
VIII. THE ’70’s
IX. THE ’80’s
X. THE ’90’s
RETROSPECT
GLOSSARY OF MATERIALS
GLOSSARY OF CERTAIN TECHNICAL TERMS
GLOSSARY OF OBSOLETE COLOUR NAMES
AUTHORITIES
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE
NOTE ON ENGLISH MUSEUMS CONTAINING NINETEENTH-
CENTURY COSTUMES
INDEX
1818
Evening dress of embroidered silk gauze; sarcenet slip
ILLUSTRATIONS
*
COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS
The photographs in colour are by Piero Sansalvadore from specimens in
author’s collection
1874 Dinner dress of blue gros-grain and pink faille, trimmed with
Valenciennes lace
1818 Evening dress of embroidered silk gauze; sarcenet slip
1826 Day dress of heavy silk with chiné satin stripe
1833 Day dress of flowered de laine
1841 Day dress of striped alpaca with Pompadour sprig
1852– Summer dress of muslin printed en disposition
3
1864 Carriage dress of tartan glacé
1871 Afternoon dress of striped Jap silk
1886 Dinner dress of satin: tablier of uncut velvet with pearls on net
1892 Dinner dress of brocaded satin and faille; chiffon drapery
*
COLLOTYPE ILLUSTRATIONS
ABBREVIATIONS FOR THE COLLOTYPE ILLUSTRATIONS
G. of F. Gallery of Fashion
L.P. Fashions of London & Paris (Phillips)
B.A. La Belle Assemblée
C. Author’s Collection
A. Akerman’s depository
Mus. Lady’s Museum
L.M. Lady’s Magazine
H.B.B. Heath’s Book of Beauty
W. World of Fashion
N.B.M. Nouveau beau Monde
L.G.F. Ladies’ Gazette of Fashion
Court.
Court.
Court Magazine
L. Cab. Ladies’ Cabinet
L. & P.M. London & Paris Magazine of Fashions
J. des M. Journal des Modes
L.T. Ladies’ Treasury
S.J. Sylvia’s Journal
G. Gentlewoman
B. & W. Black and White
H. & H. Hearth & Home
L.R. Ladies’ Realm
Lady The Lady
Gaz. of F. Gazette of Fashion
Cont. Phot. Contemporary Photographs
R.L.M. Royal Ladies’ Magazine
1800 Morning dress: round gown; yellow spotted muslin; epaulettes white
muslin; union hat. Morning dress: petticoat plain muslin, jacket of same;
short sleeves, gauze veil fastened as mantle. Morning dress: round gown;
fine muslin; bag bonnet, striped sarcenet. Morning dress: round gown of
figured muslin; pink handkerchief across breast (G of F)
1801 Evening dress: robe of Salisbury drugget, petticoat of white muslin
trimmed with gold lace. Evening dress: robe of black velvet, trimmed with
gold lace, high tucker trimmed with lace; petticoat of white muslin (G of F)
1802 Two evening dresses of sprigged muslin; buffonts of lace over the bosom.
Day dress of lilac silk with white satin sleeves, edged with lace. Morning

dress of cambric muslin with ruff. Walking dress of white muslin; white
lace veil (LP)
1803 Full evening dress: short tunic of white crepe over white sarcenet. Full

evening dress: patent net worked with gold; narrow lace tucker (LP)
1804 Promenade dress: morning dress of fine cambric, trained. Promenade

dress: round dress of white muslin (LP)
1805 Full evening dress, York tan gloves. Three promenade dresses showing

Tyrolese cloak; lace borders (LP)
1806 Day dress with boa. Full evening dress with long tunic (LP)
1807 Two evening dresses made as frocks; of muslin over coloured slips (LP)
1808 White muslin walking dress with spencer of lilac sarcenet. Muslin dress