by Donald Olson England FOR DUMmIES ‰ 4TH EDITION s 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page iii 02_165614 ftoc.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page x Plan your trip with For Dummies Covering the most popular destinations in North America and Europe, For Dummies travel guides are the ultimate user-friendly trip planners. Available wherever books are sold or go to www.dummies.com And book it with our online partner, Frommers.com � Book airfare,hotels and packages � Find the hottest deals � Get breaking travel news � Enter to win vacations � Share trip photos and stories � And much more Frommers.com,rated the #1 Travel Web Site by PC Magazine 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:27 PM Page i Available wherever books are sold. Go to www.dummies.com or call 1-877-762-2974 to order direct. The fun and easy way™ to travel! U.S.A. Also available: Alaska For Dummies Arizona For Dummies Boston For Dummies California For Dummies Chicago For Dummies Colorado & the Rockies For Dummies Florida For Dummies Los Angeles & Disneyland For Dummies Maui For Dummies National Parks of the American West For Dummies New Orleans For Dummies New York City For Dummies San Francisco For Dummies Seattle & the Olympic Peninsula For Dummies Washington,D.C.For Dummies RV Vacations For Dummies Walt Disney World & Orlando For Dummies EUROPE Also available: England For Dummies Europe For Dummies Germany For Dummies Ireland For Dummies London For Dummies Paris For Dummies Scotland For Dummies Spain For Dummies OTHER DESTINATIONS Also available: Bahamas For Dummies Cancun & the Yucatan For Dummies Costa Rica For Dummies Mexico’s Beach Resorts For Dummies Montreal & Quebec City For Dummies Vancouver & Victoria For Dummies ™ 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page ii by Donald Olson England FOR DUMmIES ‰ 4TH EDITION s 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page iii England For Dummies®, 4th Edition Published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 www.wiley.com Copyright © 2008 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana Published simultaneously in Canada No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as per- mitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http:// www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trade- mark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the prop- erty of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITH- OUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGA- NIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMEN- DATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ. PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEAD FOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING. For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002. For technical support, please visit www.wiley.com/techsupport. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. Library of Congress Control Number: 2008921211 ISBN: 978-0-470-16561-4 Manufactured in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page iv About the Author Donald Olson is a novelist, playwright, and travel writer. His newest novel, Memoirs Are Made of This, was published in the U.K. by Hodder Headline in 2007 under the pen name Swan Adamson. Earlier Swan Adamson novels include Confessions of a Pregnant Princess and My Three Husbands, which was translated into French and published by J’ai Lu, Paris. Donald Olson’s novel The Confes- sions of Aubrey Beardsley was published in the United Kingdom by Bantam Press, and his play, Beardsley, was produced in London. His travel stories have appeared in the New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Sunset, National Geographic books, and many other publi- cations. England For Dummies, 1st Edition won a 2002 Lowell Thomas Travel Writing Award for best guidebook. His other guide- books, London For Dummies, Best Day Trips from London, Irreverent London, Germany For Dummies, and Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria, are all published by Wiley Publishing, Inc. London is one of Donald’s favorite cities, and England is one of his favorite countries. Dedication This book is dedicated to the Brits I have known, loved, and worked with over the years. Author’s Acknowledgments I would like to thank RailEurope, the National Trust, and English Heritage for helpful assistance while I was researching this new edition of England For Dummies. 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page v Editorial Editors: Lindsay Conner, Production Editor; Michael Kelly, Develop- ment Editor; Christine Ryan, Project Editor Copy Editor: Melissa Bennett Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox Cover Photos: Front cover: © Dave Sutton/Getty Images; Stonehenge Back cover: © Russ Merne/Alamy; Punting on the River Cam Cartoons: Rich Tennant (www.the5thwave.com) Composition Services Project Coordinator: Katherine Key Layout and Graphics: Carl Byers, Stephanie D. Jumper Proofreaders: Debbye Butler, Caitie Kelly, Susan Moritz Indexer: Potomac Indexing, LLC Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies Technology/ General User Composition Services Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services Publisher’s Acknowledgments We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/. Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following: 01_165614 ffirs.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page vi Contents at a Glance Introduction.......................................................1 Part I: Introducing England.................................7 Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of England ..................................9 Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into England ......................................15 Chapter 3: Deciding When and Where to Go ..............................25 Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Five Great Options ..............42 Part II: Planning Your Trip to England ...............55 Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................57 Chapter 6: Getting to England........................................................70 Chapter 7: Getting Around England ..............................................78 Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................88 Chapter 9: Catering to Special Travel Needs or Interests..........97 Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ....................105 Part III: London and Environs..........................115 Chapter 11: Settling Into London ................................................117 Chapter 12: Exploring London ....................................................159 Chapter 13: Day-tripping from London ......................................202 Part IV: The Southeast ....................................223 Chapter 14: Kent and Sussex ......................................................225 Chapter 15: Kent’s Best Castles, Stately Homes, and Gardens ............................................................................249 Part V: The West Country................................261 Chapter 16: Hampshire and Wiltshire: Old Wessex and New Sarum ......................................................................263 Chapter 17: Devon: Moors, Tors, and Sandy Shores ................277 Chapter 18: Cornwall: Saints, Salts, Sea, and Sun......................296 Part VI: England’s Heartland...........................315 Chapter 19: Stratford-upon-Avon and Warwick Castle ............317 Chapter 20: Bath and the Best of the Cotswolds ......................331 Part VII: Way Up North ..................................355 Chapter 21: Yorkshire ..................................................................357 Chapter 22: The Lake District ......................................................383 02_165614 ftoc.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page vii Part VIII: The Part of Tens...............................403 Chapter 23: Ten Writers and the Places They Lived ................405 Chapter 24: Ten Great English Gardens......................................409 Chapter 25: Ten (or So) Great English Churches ......................413 Chapter 26: Ten Important Royals — Past and Present ..........417 Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................426 Index.............................................................437 02_165614 ftoc.qxp 2/1/08 11:28 PM Page viii