ENERGY CONSUMPTION DETERMINANTS FOR APPAREL SEWING OPERATIONS PDF
Preview ENERGY CONSUMPTION DETERMINANTS FOR APPAREL SEWING OPERATIONS
ENERGY CONSUMPTION DETERMINANTS FOR APPAREL SEWING OPERATIONS: AN APPROACH TO ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY by MD. IMRANUL ISLAM B.S., University of Dhaka, 2006 M.B.A., University of Dhaka, 2011 M.Engg., Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology, 2013 AN ABSTRACT OF A DISSERTATION submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design College of Human Ecology KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 2016 Abstract Fashion is the second most polluting industry and accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions. Consuming fossil fuel based electricity, the primary source of energy in the apparel production process, causes a great deal of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. Due to ever- increasing apparel demand and population growth, this industry’s carbon footprint will only grow bigger. As attention on sustainability issues in our world intensifies, research on environmental sustainability in the apparel manufacturing industry is needed. The purpose of this exploratory study was to investigate energy consumption (EC) of the apparel sewing process. The objectives are to (a) identify the most influential EC factors and develop a model to capture EC levels, (b) determine factor interrelationships, (c) identify steps to reduce EC, and (d) explore experts’ level of concern regarding EC of the apparel manufacturing and its contribution to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. A mixed method research study was employed in this study: a qualitative method was utilized to assess expert perceptions and a quantitative method was used to measure EC and build a regression model. This study determined dominant EC and GHG emissions factors from sewing process so that apparel manufacturers can understand which factors need to be controlled to reduce environmental damage. Findings from the study indicated sewing machine motor capacity, sewing speed, and standard allocated minute (SAM) were the most influential EC factors, and shortening the sewing time was found as the best solution to reduce energy consumption in the apparel sewing process. The energy consumption model was found as: Log (EC) = 9.283 + 0.771* log (SAM) + 0.386*knit fabric type + 0.260*sportswear fabric type + 0.080*SPI - 0.008*capacity + 0.004*seam length - 0.001* speed + 0.495 The EC model along with GHG calculator (a tool to convert GHG from EC) will help the industry to determine their EC and GHG emissions level to boost their awareness and to encourage greater impetus for environmental actions. Finally, this study will help designers, retailers, and consumers to pursue environmentally friendly actions in terms of decisions regarding apparel design, sourcing, and purchasing. ENERGY CONSUMPTION DETERMINANTS FOR APPAREL SEWING OPERATIONS: AN APPROACH TO ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY by MD. IMRANUL ISLAM B.S., University of Dhaka, 2006 M.B.A., University of Dhaka, 2011 M.Engg., Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology, 2013 A DISSERTATION submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Department of Apparel, Textiles, and Interior Design College of Human Ecology KANSAS STATE UNIVERSITY Manhattan, Kansas 2016 Approved by: Major Professor Dr. Melody L. A. LeHew Copyright MD. IMRANUL ISLAM 2016 Abstract Fashion is the second most polluting industry and accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions. Consuming fossil fuel based electricity, the primary source of energy in the apparel production process, causes a great deal of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. Due to ever- increasing apparel demand and population growth, this industry’s carbon footprint will only grow bigger. As attention on sustainability issues in our world intensifies, research on environmental sustainability in the apparel manufacturing industry is needed. The purpose of this exploratory study was to investigate energy consumption (EC) of the apparel sewing process. The objectives are to (a) identify the most influential EC factors and develop a model to capture EC levels, (b) determine factor interrelationships, (c) identify steps to reduce EC, and (d) explore experts’ level of concern regarding EC of the apparel manufacturing and its contribution to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. A mixed method research study was employed in this study: a qualitative method was utilized to assess expert perceptions and a quantitative method was used to measure EC and build a regression model. This study determined dominant EC and GHG emissions factors from sewing process so that apparel manufacturers can understand which factors need to be controlled to reduce environmental damage. Findings from the study indicated sewing machine motor capacity, sewing speed, and standard allocated minute (SAM) were the most influential EC factors, and shortening the sewing time was found as the best solution to reduce energy consumption in the apparel sewing process. The energy consumption model was found as: Log (EC) = 9.283 + 0.771* log (SAM) + 0.386*knit fabric type + 0.260*sportswear fabric type + 0.080*SPI - 0.008*capacity + 0.004*seam length - 0.001* speed + 0.495 The EC model along with GHG calculator (a tool to convert GHG from EC) will help the industry to determine their EC and GHG emissions level to boost their awareness and to encourage greater impetus for environmental actions. Finally, this study will help designers, retailers, and consumers to pursue environmentally friendly actions in terms of decisions regarding apparel design, sourcing, and purchasing. Table of Contents List of Figures ................................................................................................................................ xi List of Tables ................................................................................................................................ xii Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................................... xiii Chapter 1 - Introduction .................................................................................................................. 1 Background of the study ............................................................................................................. 1 Statement of the problem ............................................................................................................ 4 Purpose of the study .................................................................................................................... 5 Conceptual Framework ............................................................................................................... 6 Significance of the study ............................................................................................................. 9 Definition of Terms .................................................................................................................... 9 Overview of the Dissertation .................................................................................................... 11 Chapter 2 - Background Information and Literature .................................................................... 12 Sustainability ............................................................................................................................ 12 Climate Change and Greenhouse Gases (GHGs) ..................................................................... 15 Energy Consumption in the Textile and Apparel (TA) Supply Chain ..................................... 19 Energy Consumption in Apparel Industry ................................................................................ 25 Greenhouse Gas (GHG) Emissions from Textile and Apparel Production .............................. 30 Energy Consumption Factors in the Sewing Operation ............................................................ 33 Chapter 3 - Methodology .............................................................................................................. 42 Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 42 Objectives and Research Questions .......................................................................................... 44 Statement of the Use of Human Subjects ................................................................................. 46 Qualitative Method of Research ............................................................................................... 46 Research Approach ............................................................................................................... 46 Sampling Strategy ................................................................................................................. 47 Instrumentation ..................................................................................................................... 49 Data Collection Procedure .................................................................................................... 50 Transcription ......................................................................................................................... 51 Analysis ................................................................................................................................. 52 viii Substantive Significance ....................................................................................................... 54 Quantitative Method of Research ............................................................................................. 55 Unit of analysis ..................................................................................................................... 56 Data Collection ..................................................................................................................... 56 Data Extraction Method ........................................................................................................ 58 Data Variability and Credibility ............................................................................................ 61 Data Analysis ........................................................................................................................ 61 Regression Analysis Plan ...................................................................................................... 63 Integration of Qualitative and Quantitative Data ...................................................................... 65 Chapter 4 - Findings...................................................................................................................... 66 Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 66 Introduction to Research Participants ....................................................................................... 66 Descriptive Statistics ................................................................................................................. 69 Influential Energy Consumption Factors for Sewing Operations ............................................. 71 RQ1: Energy Consumption Factors Identified as Most Influential by Industry Experts ...... 72 RQ2: Most Influential Energy Consumption Factors Identified by Statistical Analysis ...... 84 RQ3. Congruency between Qualitative and Quantitative Findings ...................................... 97 Interrelationships among Energy Consumption Factors ......................................................... 102 RQ4. Interrelationships Identified by Industry Experts ...................................................... 103 RQ5. Interrelationships Identified by Statistical Analysis .................................................. 104 RQ6. Congruency between Qualitative and Quantitative Findings .................................... 107 Steps to Reduce Energy Consumption .................................................................................... 110 RQ7. Potential Solutions Identified by Industry Experts .................................................... 110 Exploring Experts’ Level of Concern ..................................................................................... 116 RQ8. Experts’ Level of Concern about Energy Consumption............................................ 116 RQ9. Initiatives Implemented to Reduce Energy Consumption ......................................... 119 RQ10. Discussions with Other Professionals to Address Climate Change ........................ 120 RQ11. Modifying Assembling Processes with the Help of an Energy Consumption Model ............................................................................................................................................. 121 RQ12. Production Rate vs. Energy Consumption in the Decision Making Process ........... 123 ix Chapter 5 - Integrated Discussion, Implications, Limitations, and Recommendations for Future Research ............................................................................................................................... 126 Summary of Research Method ............................................................................................... 126 Integrated Discussion and Implications .................................................................................. 129 Limitations .............................................................................................................................. 137 Recommendations for Future Research .................................................................................. 138 Conclusion .............................................................................................................................. 140 References ................................................................................................................................... 142 Appendix A - Interview Design .................................................................................................. 155 Appendix B - Themes within the Qualitative Interview Responses ........................................... 158 Appendix C - Example of Quantitative Data Set ........................................................................ 160 x
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