Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. VOLUME 1: Academic Dress to Eyeglasses PDF
Preview Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. VOLUME 1: Academic Dress to Eyeglasses
EC&F-httlpg 081004.qx4 8/10/04 3:12 PM Page i SCRIBNER LIBRARY OF DAILY LIFE Encyclopediaof Food And Culture i 69134-ECF-FM_ii-ed-board_Vol-1-3.qxd 8/17/2004 8:02 AM Page ii EDITORIAL BOARD Christopher Breward London College of Fashion Joanne B. Eicher University of Minnesota John S. Major China Institute Phyllis Tortora Author of Understanding Textiles, The Fairchild Encyclopedia of Fashion Accessories, and The Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles ii EC&Fv1-ttlpg 081004.qx4 8/10/04 3:16 PM Page iii SCRIBNER LIBRARY OF DAILY LIFE Encyclopediaof Food And Culture VOLUME 1: Academic Dress to Eyeglasses Valerie Steele, Editor in Chief 69134-ECF-FM_copyright_Vol-1-3.qxd 8/17/2004 7:58 AM Page iv Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion Valerie Steele, Editor in Chief © 2005 Thomson Gale, a part of the Thom- ing, recording, taping, Web distribution, or While every effort has been made to en- son Corporation. information storage retrieval systems— sure the reliability of the information pre- without the written permission of the pub- sented in this publication, Thomson Gale Thomson and Star Logo are trademarks lisher. does not guarantee the accuracy of the and Gale and Charles Scribner’s Sons are data contained herein. 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Errors brought to or mail to: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 the attention of the publisher and verified Or you can visit our Internet site at Permissions Department to the satisfaction of the publisher will be http://www.gale.com Thomson Gale corrected in future editions. 27500 Drake Road ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 No part of this work covered by the copy- Permissions Hotline: right hereon may be reproduced or used in 248-699-8006 or 800-877-4253 ext. 8006 any form or by any means—graphic, elec- Fax: 248-699-8074 or 800-762-4058 tronic, or mechanical, including photocopy- Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion / Valerie Steele, editor in chief. p. cm. — (Scribner library of daily life) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-684-31394-4 (set: hardcover: alk. paper) — ISBN 0-684-31395-2 (v. 1) — ISBN 0-684-31396-0 (v. 2) — ISBN 0-684-31397-9 (v. 3) — ISBN 0-684-31451-7 (e-book) 1. Clothing and dress—History—Encyclopedias. I. Steele, Valerie II. Series. GT507.E53 2005 391'.003—dc22 2004010098 This title is also available as an e-book. ISBN 0-684-31451-7 Contact your Thomson Gale Sales representative for ordering information. Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 iv 69134-ECF-FM_v-xviii_Vol-1.qxd 8/17/2004 8:05 AM Page v EDITORIAL AND PRODUCTION STAFF Project Editor Nicole Watkins Editorial Support Dana Barnes Sofia Begg Deirdre Blanchfield Mark Drouillard Lynn Koch Jeffrey Lehman Nancy Matuszak Mark Mikula Kate Millson Jenai Mynatt Jamie Noce Christine Slovey Rachel Widawsky Copy Editors Richard Rothschild, Printmatters, Inc. Neil Schlager, Schlager Group, Inc. Proofreaders Lisa Dixon Margaret Haerens Carol Holmes Allison Leopold Melodie Monahan Anna Nesbitt Eleanor Stanford Shanna Weagle Caption Writers Sofia Begg Andrew Claps Shannon Kelly Lynn Koch Kimberly A. McCloud John F. McCoy Indexer Laurie Androit Design Pamela A. E. Galbreath Imaging Dean Dauphinais Randy Bassett Leitha Etheridge-Sims Lezlie Light Michael Logusz Robyn Young Permissions Margaret Abendroth Ann Taylor Compositor GGS Information Services, York, Pennsylvania Manufacturing Wendy Blurton Development Editor Sarah Turner Senior Development Editor Nathalie Duval Editorial Director John Fitzpatrick Publisher Frank Menchaca v 69134-ECF-FM_v-xviii_Vol-1.qxd 8/17/2004 8:05 AM Page vii TABLE OF CONTENTS Volume 1 Australian Dress Preface . . . xv Avedon, Richard A B Academic Dress Balenciaga, Cristóbal Acrylic and Modacrylic Fibers Ball Dress Activewear Ballet Costume Actors and Actresses, Impact on Fashion Balmain, Pierre Adinkra Balzac, Honoré de Adire Barbers Adrian Barbie Aesthetic Dress Barbier, Georges African American Dress Bark Cloth Africa, North: History of Dress Barthes, Roland Africa, Sub-Saharan: History of Dress Batik Afro Hairstyle Baudelaire, Charles Afrocentric Fashion Baudrillard, Jean Agbada Beads Alaïa, Azzedine Beards and Mustaches Albini, Walter Beaton, Cecil A-Line Dress Beene, Geoffrey Alpaca Belgian Fashion America, Central, and Mexico: History of Dress Belts and Buckles America, North: History of Indigenous Peoples’ Dress Benjamin, Walter America, South: History of Dress Beret Amies, Hardy Bertin, Rose Ancient World: History of Dress Best-Dressed Lists Angora Biba Animal Prints Bicycle Clothing Ao Dai Bikini Appearance Blahnik, Manolo Appliqué Blass, Bill Aprons Blazer Armani, Giorgio Bloomer Costume Armor Blouse Art and Fashion Bodybuilding and Sculpting Art Nouveau and Art Deco Body Piercing Asia, Central: History of Dress Bogolan Asia, East: History of Dress Bohemian Dress Asia, South: History of Dress Boots Asia, Southeastern Islands and the Pacific: History of Boubou Dress Bourdin, Guy Asia, Southeastern Mainland: History of Dress Boutique vii 69134-ECF-FM_v-xviii_Vol-1.qxd 8/17/2004 8:05 AM Page viii TABLE OF CONTENTS Boxer Shorts Costume Jewelry Bracelets Cotton Braiding Courrèges, André Branding Court Dress Brands and Labels Cowboy Clothing Brassiere Crepe Breeches Crinoline Brooches and Pins Crochet Brooks Brothers Cross-Dressing Brummell, George (Beau) Crowns and Tiaras Burberry Cuff Links and Studs Burqa Cunnington, C. Willett and Phillis Burrows, Stephen Cutting Bustle Buttons D Dahl-Wolfe, Louise C Dance and Fashion Cache-Sexe Dance Costume Caftan Dandyism Calico Dashiki Callot Sisters Debutante Dress Cambric, Batiste, and Lawn De la Renta, Oscar Camel Hair Delaunay, Sonia Camouflage Cloth Demeulemeester, Ann Canes and Walking Sticks Demimonde Capucci, Roberto Demorest, Mme. Cardin, Pierre Denim Caricature and Fashion Department Store Carnival Dress Diana, Princess of Wales Cashin, Bonnie Dior, Christian Cashmere and Pashmina Distressing Casual Business Dress Djellaba Celebrities Dolce & Gabbana Ceremonial and Festival Costumes Domestic Production Chador Doublet Chalayan, Hussein Doucet, Jacques Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) Dress Codes Chemise Dress Dress for Success Children’s Clothing Dress Reform China: History of Dress Dress Shirt Chintz Dry Cleaning Clark, Ossie Duffle Coat Closures, Hook-and-Loop Dyeing Clothing, Costume, and Dress Dyeing, Resist Coat Dyes, Chemical and Synthetic Cocktail Dress Dyes, Natural Codpiece Colonialism and Imperialism Color in Dress E Comme des Garçons Communist Dress Earrings Corduroy Ecclesiastical Dress Corset Economics and Clothing Cosmetics, Non-Western Elastomers Cosmetics, Western Ellis, Perry Costume Designer Embroidery viii E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F C L O T H I N G A N D F A S H I O N 69134-ECF-FM_v-xviii_Vol-1.qxd 8/17/2004 8:05 AM Page ix TABLE OF CONTENTS Empire Style Folk Dress, Western Europe Equestrian Costume Folklore Look Ethnic Dress Fontana Sisters Ethnic Style in Fashion Footbinding Europe and America: History of Dress (400–1900 C.E.) Ford, Tom Evening Dress Formal Wear, Men’s Extreme Fashions Fortuny, Mariano Eyeglasses Fulling Fur Volume 2 Future of Fashion Futurist Fashion, Italian F Fads Fancy Dress G Fans G-string and Thong Fascist and Nazi Dress Gabardine Fashion Galanos, James Fashion, Attacks on Galliano, John Fashion, Historical Studies of Garments, International Trade in Fashion, Theories of Gaultier, Jean-Paul Fashion Advertising Gender, Dress, and Fashion Fashion and Homosexuality Gernreich, Rudi Fashion and Identity Gigli, Romeo Fashion Designer Girdle Fashion Dolls Givenchy, Hubert de Fashion Editors Glazing Fashion Education Globalization Fashion, Health, and Disease Gloves Fashion Icons Godey’s Lady’s Book Fashion Illustrators Golf Clothing Fashion Industry Goths Fashion Journalism Grès, Mme. Fashion Magazines Grunge Fashion Marketing and Merchandising Gucci Fashion Models Fashion Museums and Collections Fashion Online H Fashion Photography Fashion Plates Hair Accessories Fashion Shows Hairdressers Fashion Television Hairstyles Fasteners Halloween Costume Fath, Jacques Halston Feathers Handbags and Purses Felt Handwoven Textiles Fendi Hartnell, Norman Ferragamo, Salvatore Hats, Men’s Fetish Fashion Hats, Women’s Fibers Haute Couture Film and Fashion Hawaiian Shirt First Ladies’ Gowns Hawes, Elizabeth Flannel Head, Edith Flappers Headdress Flocking Helmet Flügel, J. C. Hemlines Fogarty, Anne Hemp Folk Dress, Eastern Europe Hermès ix E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F C L O T H I N G A N D F A S H I O N 69134-ECF-FM_v-xviii_Vol-1.qxd 8/17/2004 8:05 AM Page x TABLE OF CONTENTS Heroin Chic Knotting High Heels Korean Dress and Adornment High-Tech Fashion Hijab Hilfiger, Tommy L Hip-Hop Fashion Labeling Laws Hippie Style Labor Unions Historicism and Historical Revival Lace Hollywood Style Lacroix, Christian Homespun Lagerfeld, Karl Horst, Horst P. Lang, Helmut Hosiery, Men’s Lanvin, Jeanne Hoyningen-Huene, George Latin American Fashion Hugo Boss Latino Style Laundry Lauren, Ralph I Laver, James Ikat Leather and Suede Implants Legal and Judicial Costume India: Clothing and Adornment Leiber, Judith Indigo Leotard Inuit and Arctic Dress Lesage, François Inuit and Arctic Footwear Levi Strauss & Co. Iran: History of Pre-Islamic Dress Liberty & Co. Iribe, Paul Linen Islamic Dress, Contemporary Lingerie Italian Fashion Lipstick Little Black Dress Logos London Fashion J Loom Jacket Lucile James, Charles Japanese Fashion Japanese Traditional Dress and Adornment M Japonisme Macaroni Dress Jeans Mackie, Bob Jersey Madonna Jewelry Mainbocher Jewish Dress Makeup Artists Jilbab Mallarmé, Stéphane Jockey Shorts Mannequins Jumper Dress Mantua Mao Suit Margiela, Martin K Marimekko Kaffiyeh Marks & Spencer Kain-kebaya Marx, Karl Kamali, Norma Masks Kanga Masquerade and Masked Balls Karan, Donna Maternity Dress Kente McCardell, Claire Kilt McFadden, Mary Kimono McQueen, Alexander Klein, Calvin Meisel, Steven Knitting Microfibers Knitting Machinery Middle East: History of Islamic Dress x E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F C L O T H I N G A N D F A S H I O N
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