EEmmppTtYY PPLLEeaassuurreess TThhee U Unnivive(cid:2)r ssiti(cid:3)y o off NNoorrt(cid:4)h CCaarroo(cid:5)l innaa P Prreessss CChhaapp(cid:6)e l H Hiilll l EEmmppTtYY PPLLEeaassuurreess TThhee SSttoorryy ooff aArrt(cid:8) ififi cciiaall Ssww(cid:9)e E(cid:10)T enn(cid:2)e rss, ffrroomm sSaacccchhaarriinn ttoo sSppl(cid:11)e nnddaa cCaarroollyynn ddee l(cid:12)a Ppeeññaa This volume was published with the assistance of the Greensboro Women’s Fund of the University of North Carolina Press. Founding Contributors: Linda Arnold Carlisle, Sally Schindel Cone, Anne Faircloth, Bonnie McElveen Hunter, Linda Bullard Jennings, Janice J. Kerley (in honor of Margaret Supplee Smith), Nancy Rouzer May, and Betty Hughes Nichols. ©2010 The University of North Carolina Press All rights reserved. Designed by Courtney Leigh Baker and set in Merlo and Unsprit by Rebecca Evans. Manufactured in the United States of America. The paper in this book meets the guidelines for permanence and durability of the Committee on Production Guidelines for Book Longevity of the Council on Library Resources. The University of North Carolina Press has been a member of the Green Press Initiative since 2003. Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Peña, Carolyn Thomas de la. Empty pleasures: the story of artifi cial sweeteners from saccharin to Splenda / by Carolyn de la Peña.—1st ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978-0-8078-3409-1 (cloth: alk. paper) 1. Nonnutritive sweeteners—History. i. Title. tp422.p46 2010 664(cid:118).5—dc22 2010006638 14 13 12 11 10 5 4 3 2 1 FOR CATHERINE VADE BON COEUR This page intentionally left blank Contents Introduction 1 chapter one. False Scarlet Healthful Sugar vs. Adulterous Saccharin in the Early Twentieth Century 13 chapter two. Alchemic Ally Women’s Creativity and Control in Saccharin and Cyclamates 39 chapter three. Diet Men The Food- Pharma Origins of Artifi cially Sweetened Products 65 chapter four. Prosperity Stomachs and Prosperous Women Diet Entrepreneurs 105 chapter five. Saccharin Rebels The Right to Risky Pleasure in 1977 141 chapter six. Nutra Sweet Nation Profi t, Peril, and the Promise of a Free Lunch 177 conclusion Splenda, Sugar, and What Mother Nature Intended 219 Notes 229 Bibliography 257 Acknowledgments 269 Index 273 Illustrations fig. 1.1 Saccharin brochure, 1893 17 fig. 1.2 Clicquot Club Ginger Ale advertisement 23 fig. 1.3 Domino Sugar advertisement 31 fig. 1.4 “The Hold- Up in the Kitchen” 33 fig. 2.1 Saccharin containers 45 fig. 2.2 Saccharin sparrow 47 fig. 2.3 “Two- fi ngered” sweetening 49 fig. 2.4 Sucaryl “No thanks!” 49 fig. 3.1 Abbott Laboratories “tree” mural 68 fig. 3.2 Illustration from Food Additives pamphlet 85
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