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ELSAH HISTORY PublishedbyHistoricElsahFoundation,P.O. Box 117, Elsah, IL 62028 No. 77&78 2000 Th^ §(z:mpl(z: family %:tarn§ to 61§ah byMarieOleson ChristopherAiken, the great, great, great grandson ofGeneral James Semple, the founder ofElsah, visited Elsah forthefirsttimeInJanuarywithhiswife, Barbara. Earlyin 1997, BarbaraAiken, the familyarchivist, wrote to HEF, introducing herselfand asking ifwe might have information on the Semple family in Elsah. We immediately put her in touch with Nancy Grossman who had visited Elsah a fewyears earlier as a result ofher purchase at an auction ofsome diaries written by Ada Semple AmesTurneraroundtheturnofthecentury(seeElsahHistory#72/73). Theinterestingstoriesin thesediaries, framed inamostelegantstyleofwriting,giveawonderfullywarmreportofAda'slife. In 1852, James Semple purchased the valleythatwas to become Elsah, surveyed the land, and advertised lots for sale. His daughter, Lucy, married Edgar Ames, and their daughter, Mary Semple Ames (sister of Ada Ames Turner) married Wayman Grow Gushman, who is the grandson of Wayman Grow, one of the founders of Washington University in St. Louis. Lucy Semple Ames built Notch GlifFestate in Elsah, and HenryTurner, Jr., husband ofher daughter, Ada, built Eliestoun, also in Elsah. This relationship broughtthe Aikens to St. Louis in January,attheinvitation ofWashington University,toattendaspecialcelebration honoringWayman Grow. DuringtheAikens'one-dayvisitto Elsah, membersofHistoric Elsah Foundation's Boardconductedaspecial tour ofthe Village and ofthe Principia Gollege campus to see Eliestoun and the site ofthe Notch GlifFestate thatwas destroyed by fire in 191L The Foundation and the Village Board also hosted a lunch at Farley's Music Hall in honorofourguests. The deliciouslunchwascateredbyAnn Badasch, ownerof"My just Desserts" in Alton, who willsoon beopening . "MyJustDesserts, Elsali"inthe MottGommercialBuildingon LaSalle Street. Thosewhoattendedtheluncheon,fromlefttoright. Backrow: EdLewitz, PaulaBradley,jerryTaetz,AnnBadasch,NedBradley, MargeDoerr,DavidPfeifer, James Schmidt, MaryAnn Schmidt,JeralynLewitz,MarieOleson,JuneCronin, BobCronin. Frontrow: JudyWilliams, MarkBadasch,ChiistopherAiken, Barbara Aiken,John Williams,IngeMack EleanorBamal,JanePfeifer. BobRockabrandwastakingthepicture. Digitalphotoprovidedby ChiistopherAiken. . ^ Introduction An 1850svillage preparesitselfforthe twenty-firstcentury, withoutlosinganyofits heritage. Thatis Elsah today. It is going into a new millennium and after some very difficult times with the loss of Charles Hosmer and the destruction ofthe Great Flood, both happening in 1993, it has the beginnings ofasecond renaissance. Ithadone in theearly 1970s, butthere isanotheroneinthe making. Thereisan upswingofactivities: anewrestaurantanda Kellergiftshopare planned;abigger, better"feremiali's Elsah"and museumare in place. Theseare changes, but there is also continuity, and both are held together by the villagers' sense ofresponsibility for and pride in their — connnunit)' asshown in theirgovernmentandintheexistenceofthe Historic Elsah Foundation. Within the confines ofthe Historic Elsah Foundation itself there are big changes: there is a new presidentwith fresh ideasandenergies,andtwo new membersofthe Boardtoassisthim. Aspringbreezeis blowing. On the last page ofthis issue, under the heading ofVillage Happenings, are all the °happenings" listed, which constitutethe majorandminorchanges. In the restofthenewsletter, thesechangesareputintoalargercontextof continuity. ^ Changesand Continuity Thepastsixyearswereaperiodoftransition for HEF, ofadjustingto importantchanges, financialandothers. We went from an established Foundation operating under Charles Hosmer's guidance through trying times of reconstruction, toapresentlyrecoveredsenseofdirection. In 1993, when I accepted the presidencyofHEF, I did itas a temporary measure, to form a link; I hoped to be able to hold the group together and to manage to get through the reconstruction work necessary after the Great Flood. HEF could not have weathered the financial problems of maintaining the Mott Building and the complete restoration,afterthe flood, ofFarley's Music Hallwithoutthe mostgratifyingsupportofour members, anonymous donors, and miscellaneous contributors, together with grants from the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency, the Illinois DepartmentofCommerce and CommunityAffairs, and the National Trust, and finally help from our local — laithlul bank in lerseyxille the jersey State Bank. Richard Lott, Assistant Vice President ofjersey State Bank, has been a most loyal and interested strong supporter. He worked closelywith us through the rehab program in cooperation with the Illinois Historic Preservation Agencyand always expressed atrue understanding ol our local situation. Thechangingof theguardatthe jersey StateBank. Fromleft toright: RichardLott,Assistant Vice President; MarieOleson retiringsecretary-treasurer; John Willinms, HEFsneio president, andIngeborgMack, retiriiigpresicleiit JohnWilliams, thenewpresident: Circumstances are difFerent now. The Foundation enjoys the support of new Elsah citizens. Fresh thoughts and approaches are needed, which a new president and new board memberscangive. In 1998, upon myresignationaspresident,thesearch forareplacementwasgoingon, until, on a suggestion by jeralyn Hosmer Lewitz, John Wilhams was approached to join tlie board and he accepted. The Boardthen unanimouslyvotedhimin asitsthirdpresident. Throughouttheyears, |ohn has been afaithful supporterofHEF,yethe has his own ideas about the "running of it,andthereprobablywill besome restructuring. Beioreweproceedtonoteanychanges, though,we should point to some interesting siinilarities between Charles Hosmer, our first president, and John, our third president, and once moretracethe birthofthe Foundation anditspurpose. TointroduceJohnW. WilliamsofJerseyville, Illinois, Iwillquotehimin hisownwords: An Assistant Professorof Political Science and Mass Communication at Principia College. He received his undergraduate degree from Principia, where hewas astudentofDr. Charles Hosmerand Dr. Paul Williams, authors ofthe Elsah guidebook. As an undergraduate, he completed the line drawings, photographic survey, and historical file for the Spatz Brothers gas station, which was subsequently saved and is now the Christian Science Reading Room. He also conducted the test excavation of the post office above Eminence Hollow (in Ewing Wood on the campus of PrincipiaCollege), surveyedtheuncompleted railroadtunnellocatedjustnorth ofElsah (also on collegeproperty), andhelpedtranscribethejournalsofthe McNairBrothers. Mr. Williams receivedhis lawdegree fromGeorge Washington University'and worked in the Civil Rights Division ofthe U.S. Department ofJustice tor five years. He returned to Elsah to teach and serve on the administrative staffatPrincipiain 1983. Forseveralyears, Mr. WilliamswasareporterforTheTelegraph (Alton, IL) andcovered Elsali as part ofhis beat. He is completing his Ph.D. through Southern Illinois Universit)' at Carbondale. He teaches courses in American government, law, mass media, andAsian politics. Among his duties at Principia. Mr. Williamsdirectsundergraduateandadulttravel-studyprograms to China,Tibet, Vietnam, and Mongolia. He loves Asiabecauseofits rich historyandculture. Mr. Williamswas born in Germany, the son ofa military family. Growing up, he lived in Indiaand Thailand. He and his wife, the former Judy Blackburn, live in a turn-of-the-centur\' home in downtown Jersey\ille, our countv seat. Mrs. Williams is directorofrecruiting services for Principia College. They have been members ofHEF for morethan twentyyearsandarealso membersofthe JerseyCounty Historical Societ>'. As partof theircontribution to preserving local history, the Williamses recently purchased the original Episcopal church, built in 1880, which hadbeen in the hands ofadeveloperwho planned to gutthe chapel forduplex rental propert)'. The brickchapel isoneofonlysixoftheoriginalchurchesin Jerse^'villethathavenotbeen destroyedorsignificantlyreconstructed. As we see, John Williams, as a student, was strongly affected by the interest in Elsah historv and preser\'ation of two ofhis professors at Principia College: Dr. Hosmer and Dr. Williams. He activeh participated in research conductedbythem,andmade surveysandsketchesofhistoricallyimportantstructuresin Elsahand beyond. — Charles Hosmer, in turn, the son ofa diplomat, was also born beyond U.S. borders in Naples, Italy. (After reading John Williams' introduction and then learning ofCharles Hosmer's bio, one might surmise that a foreign birthplace be one of the major qualifications to the HEF presidency!) Charles Hosmer, though, grew up in Alexandria, Virginia,where hewas surroundedbyearlyAmerican architecture, which intrigued him. He regularly wentouttosketchthehousesandoftenwasinvitedin forafriendlychatandvisit,thuslearningfirsthandaboutthe pleasures and problems ofowning historically important structures. This interest eventually culminated, among otherimportantevents, in theformationandincorporationofthe HistoricElsali Foundation in 1971. ORIGINOFHISTORIC ELSAHFOUNDATION: Itisworthwhile to rememberthat HEFgrew outofagarden club whichwasformedin 1963andhadmonthlymeetingswith plantexchangesandyearlysummerhouse tours. Itwas onlyin 1967, when two club members, Dr. Charles HosmerandDr. PaulWilliams, produced the award winning, Elsah:A Historic Guidebook, that the Elsah residents and The Principiabecame acutelyaware ofthe importance oftheirvillageinthelargerAmerican historicarchitecturalpicture. Atthe suggestion ofDr. Hosmer,whobythenwasthe nationallyknown authorityon the historyofpreservation in the United States, the garden club was reorganizedand incorporated as the Historic Elsah Foundation, a not-for- profit, non-governmental organization in the State ofIllinois. By the way, Principia showed its deep interest in what was happening around its " front door" by donating the services of its lawyers to draw up the legal incorporation papers. THETHRUSTOFTHEFOUNDATIONISBASICALLYTHREEFOLD: Preservation and Restoration: The first majorpreservation projectwas the Village Hall in 1973; its latest one: the restorationofFarley's MusicHallfrom 1993andongoing. Publications and Education: Since its inception the foundation has published a newsletter, Elsah History. It joinedforces with the Village to manage and staffthe Village Museum, which opened in 1975. It has originated and supported art and research projects in the Village, at Principia College, and at the "live-in classes" of the College SchoolofWebsterGroves, Missouri. Protection ofthe "Village Profile" and Guidance: One important step was the purchase in 1976 of the Mott Commercial Buildingon LaSalle Street, to "encourage soundbusinessventures...that have apositive effecton the village. (Hosmer, Elsah History, August 1976). The Other was the hiring, in 1986, of the well-known zoning-law attorney, Richard Roddewig, to bringthe Elsah zoning laws up to standard. In the '90s the Boardwas tentatively consideringmeasuressuchaslife-tenancyandthecreationofarevolvingfund, butothermattersintervened. The mission ofthe Foundation is still the same, though the priorities ofthe Board are changing as the Board is changing. MarieOLESONretires: As mentioned earlier, beyond the new president there is another change in the HEF Board: two new members, Betty Clark and jeralyn Lewitzjoined the Board and will replace Marie Oleson as treasurer and secretary, respectively. After long and careful deliberation, Marie Oleson retired as secretary- treasureron December31, 1999. Mariejoined HEF in 1989 atthe invitation ofCharles Hosmer. Itwas a demanding position to begin with — the — only remunerated (though very slightly) position on the board but one that grew immeasurably in the last six yearswiththeaddedburden ofhavingtodealwithloansandgrants. Marie gave the Foundation a mostunselfedservice throughouttheyears,joiningto keep itgoingand refusingany paymentforthe pastyearand ahalf(in the inany months since the Elsah Landing Restaurant leftand our income almostdried up). Throughoutherten yearsas a memberofthe Board, Marie has been our pillar ofstrength, the centerofrecord keeping, and the organizerofmany HEF functions. She will be very diEFicult to replace andvery much missed. NEWTREASLTRER: HEF'snewtreasurer, BettyClark, isatrue Elsaliite. Shewas born here, raisedhere, attended the Elsah School, and ultimatelyworked here for manyyears atthe Post Office. With her previous experience as Postmaster, shewill be astrongaddition to the Board. Throughouttheyears, Bettyhas been an active memberof Historic Elsah Foundationandatreasuredvolunteeratmanyofitsactivities. NewSECRETARY: HEF's new secretary is also a longtime member ofthe Elsah community. Nobody has been closerto the Foundation's ideas and ideals than jeralyn Hosmer Lewitz. For manyyears she worked closelywith herlate husband, typing and proofreading his books and articles about architectural preservation. Lately she has put some ofthose ideas to work, together with her present husband, Ed Lewitz. Through the years Jeri also supportedthe Foundation byofferingitspublicationsforsaleinherconsignmentshop, "Jeremiali's Elsah." ^ Changing Hands Probably the most important liappening"at this time in Elsah itself is the changing of hands of two of its commercial buildings: the Keller store and the Mott Commercial Building. The Mott Building was the former location ofthe Elsah Landing Restaurantand was owned by Historic Elsah Foundation. The selling ofthe Mott Building by the Foundation is important because it is one ofthe first major changes in HEF's approach to fiscal solvencyanditsroleas "protector"ofthecharacterofElsah. Saleofthe Keller Store: The sale ofthe Keller Store by Eddie Keller, which in recentyears servedas the tea room and gift shop for the Elsah Landing Bestaurant, spells the end ofan era. The Kellers purchased the building in 1877 and Josephine Keller turned the main floor into a confectionary. The Keller family lived in the upstairsanddownstairs floorsofthisthree-storied, pre-Civil Warstone structure. In 1891 theyaddedthe mansard roofandtheporchto provideformorelivingspace. Thebuildingisso muchapartofElsahlore. With thecoming ofEddie Keller's nephew, Lawrence A. Keller, in March to operate agift shop in the old warehouse across Alpa Street,theendofan eramaynotbequitesofinal. The building stood empty and had been on the market for some time, but nobody wanted to believe this was a serious offer, because itwould mean too big a change. Fortunately, it is again in appreciative Elsah hands. The buildingwassoldtoJeralynand Ed LewitzandisnowthenewhomeofJeremiah's Elsah. "JEREMIAH'S—ELSAH" MOVES TO KELLER'S STORE: On December 10, 1999, EdandJeri Lewitz signed the papers for the purchase of this historic property, and they could then begin with the cleaning and slight remodeling of the structure to ready it for "|eremiah's" move from next door; "Jeremiah's"had rentedthe upstairs floorofthe Mott Buildingfrom HEFsince 1984. OnJanuar)'5, in the year 2000, the store opened its doors in its new locationandwelcomedvisitors. The three spaces on the main floor are filled with racks of clothes, some books, an antique here and there, a cozy round table with chairs in front ofthe window and colorful knick-knacks on the by-now 123-year-old Kellershelvesalongthewall. Thelower floor apartment was rented, even before the remodeling was finished. So the Keller store building is starting a new life and has to earn a new EdandJeralynLewitzin "Jeremiah's"newlocation name. THE FOUNDATION SELLS THE MOTT COMMERCIAL BUILDING: On January 11, 2000, at 4:00 p.m. to be precise,AnnandMarkBadasch, familiartoallofusasthe ownersand managersofthe successful Alton restaurant, "MyJustDesserts,"purchasedthe MottBuildingon LaSalleStreetin Elsahfrom Historic Elsah Foundation. The Badaschs are replacing the lormer Elsah Landing Bestaurant which used to rent part of the building from HEF, with another restaurantthat will be called "My Just Desserts, Elsah." They plan to be open six days a week, Tuesday through Sunday, and intendtoservelunchaswellas dinner. Theyhopeto have the restaurant in operation by the middle of April. The interior remodeling of this 1894 building is progressing at a furious pace. Tom Perotka, our friend of many years, who has left his mark on practically every structure in the village, is in charge ofthetransformation. Thecounterinthesouth room was taken out to make room tor three more booths. A large, ADA approved restroom facility is being added, and later in the spring a large deck, or, in village parlance, a porch, will be added on the east, or garden side. The color scheme is going to be a deep blue with mustard on a soft stone color as background,whichwill bestenciled. Elsah is following this interior renovation with great expectations. Since the Elsali Landing Bestaurant Our oldfriend C. T. "Tom" Perotka, preparing the left the village in May of 1998, there has not been a MoUBuildingfortheBadasch's new restaurant, "My public center like the village stores of old, where " JustDesserts, Elsah villagerscouldmeetandchat. " PublichospitalityinELSAH: Fromresearch donebyPaulWilliamsandCharles Hosmerwe knowthat Elsah atonetime had manysaloons, butevidentlyalso quite afewplaceswhere agreeable fare was available. Hospitality hashadalonghistoryin Elsah. Both the Mott Building and Josephine Keller in the Keller Store served food or refreshments. Josephine's store consisted ofa few staples plus candy and ice cream for the village children (and adults)" (see Ehah History #68). Though according to the jersey Democratin 1885, itwas even more than that: "Mrs. Josephine Keller's fine ice creamparlors are crowded every night bybelles and beaus ofElsah. Keller's is the 'Bon Ton' place to go in this village" (seeEhahGuidebook). It musthave been difficultto competewithJosephine, butthe differentowners ofthe MottCommercial Buildingdidjustthat. Theofferingsvariedfromafavorite assemblyplace aroundahotstove to selling cold sodas and milk, and later more extensive menus. And, that Elsah 'beaus and belles' still met seventy years later, but this time in the Mott Building, is proven by this recent comment by Ned Bradley, Professor Emeritus of French at Principia College, The grocery store operated by Ora Prather and his wife in the Mott Buildingwouldstayopenintheearlyeveningandserve hamburgersandcolddrinks. Paulaand I began ourdating therein theearly 1950s." Headdedthat, 'Forseveralyears, too, refreshments (mostly ice cream) could be had in the Elsah Riverview Housefromthe Rhoadsfamily. — Alonglistofnames Spatz, Prather, Singletary/Lazenby, Darr, Mack, — Lindgren/Crafton, andnowBadaschwith "MyJust Desserts, Elsah," isconnectedwiththe Mott CommercialBuilding andwiththeofferingof communityhospitalityinElsah. Wewelcome AnnandMark andwishthemtheverybest injoiningthistradition. LawrenceKELLER: Stayingon LaSalle Streetand in the musical chairgame, the lastand latest move is the coming, in early March, of Edward Keller's grand-nephew, Lawrence A. Keller. He will take up residenceat22LaSalleStreet. "I amnotatotalstrangerto Elsali," Lawrence writes. "I can rememberwhen I was averylittle boycoming up to the village to visit my great-grandfather. I am happy to say thatvery little ofwhat I remember has changed. I am quite excited about this move. It has givenmeagreatsenseofcominghome." He plans to open a little shop offering quality gifts and coffee table items in that section of 22 LaSalle which used to be one ofthe family stores, and still (HEREisnobetterormorerefreshingdrink has all the original counters and shelves. The name freshintghaanndSodiiinviWgaotreart.ingThbeeiveeriasgneotmhoarneIrgee- otofhEilssaslih,opLawwilrlebnece"].A.K.KeKlellelrer—anEdlsSaohn.w"oulWdelnoctombee C.SroCiihiiinaSnodda.IcesThaerree misorneo dpaliancteiliyntaonwdntwahst.iTley ElsahwithoutaKeller. served tlianatournewfountain. Allflavors. J. K. KELLER, Elsah, ill. ^ TheVillage Museum THEMUSEUMMOVES: For many reasons there had been a strong resistance to moving the museum out ofthe beloved old schoolhouse into the Village Hall, but the end result is very successful. The new exhibition space is airy and light, and also slightly largerthan thepreviousone. Becauseofthe largerspaceavailable, James Schmidt, Professor Emeritus ofFine Art at Principia College, and the present director of the museum, has been able to expand some subjects on exiiibit and Include others. With his keen artistic awareness, he has created a visually inviting space which is also informative. The Previous directors were Paul Williams (in 1976) and Glenn Felch (seven years later). These two basicallyfoundedthe musuem. Paul put togetheran impressive collection of Indian artifacts and geodes — all properly identified and displayed. And Glenn designed and installed his masterfully illustrated architectural walk through the village. All of these importantexhibits thattheyorganizedandassembled MuseumdirectorJmnes K. SchmidtandVillage were inoved and re-installed In their entirety in the Mayor,JanePfeifer, inthenew7nuseumlocatedin presentmuseum theVillageHall. Jane Pfeifer, the Elsah Mayor, who is tlie Prineipia archivist, has enthusiastically introduced many needed archival preservationist methods, such as the Keller family portraits being reframed in an ultra violet filteringglass, and HEF newsletters now being stored in an airtight metal cabinet proxaded with the necessarydesiccant. NowthatHEFisbasicallybackon track,andthenew president and board are fully organized, the Foundation is looking forward to cooperating with theVillage Boardandagain takingthe full measureof itsresponsibilitiesin relationtothe museum. ThemuseummovesfromtheOld Schoolhouse.. THE OLD Schoolhouse: The move of the museum out ofthe village school leaves us with the problem of the Old Stone Schoolhouse, now practically an empty shell, and void of any meaningful activity. It is an icon of what America once stood for: education for all. Its sturdy yet graceful structure is the embodiment ofagreat idea, anditshouldcommandrespect. Itcertainlystilllives in the hearts ofmany Elsah citizens, who are looking forward to seeing it come alive and be meaningful again. The vacated upstairs schoolroom, with its black- boards and desks still in place, readily could be transformed into a classroom-cum-office-museuni- storeroom. Storage units could be built so as not to disturb the space visually. Glenn Felch had some interesting ideas. Framed poster enlargements of Elsah school groups could decorate the rooms and halls, giving pleasure and being informative, and at thesametimereturningsomedignitytothebuilding. .tothe VillageHall. ^ Principiaand Elsah Sharing an inspiration: The Principia/ Elsah relationship is an interesting one. It is notjust a town-and- gown one. Itisapartnership. Both are importantarchitecturalentities. Both are nationallyrecognizedand each hasadifFerentroletoplayinthispartnership. Because ofthe geographic situation, visitors to Principiahave to drive through Elsali to reach the campus. Thus, the village being practically Principia's front door, will reflect on the college. The village itself, being completely surrounded by the Principia-owned wildlife preserve, benefits from the protection this gives from undesirable commercialdevelopment. Each preservesthesettingoftheother. Theyshareanoldhistory,atimewhen thiswholearea, neartheconfluenceofthethree rivers, playedan important roleinthe livesofseveral Indian tribes;andanevenolderone,goingbackatleast6,000years. Thesoil is richwith archaeologicalartifacts(seeEbahHistory#18). But most importantly, perhaps, is the fact thatthe campus and Elsah share an inspiration, as shown in a Bernard Maybeck letterof 1931 to Mr. Hussey (one ofhis on-site architects for the Principia construction projects). The letter states that the Principia College "dormitories should seem to belong, inore or less, to the Elsali atmosphere...." And, "Everybodywho sees Elsah seems to love it...." The people we want to reach are the ones whoseeandfeelthatway." Atonetimetherewasquiteapartnershipbetween thetwoasevidencedbyPrincipia'sgeneroussupportofHEFat its incorporation and by its real estate holdings in the Village. Elsah in turn has offered a rich opportunity for sketching classes by young art students, and research projects into its socio-economic and cultural I9th-centur)' historybyothers. Both Principiastudentsand Principiaasan educationalinstitution have benefitedfromthis, and sohavethe HEFpublicationsand, ultimately, Elsahitself. Change of policy: Lately, The Principia real estate policy appears to have made a 180° turn, and very little — interest in Elsah is shown by either faculty or staff. The enthusiasm of the '70s has also gone when Paul Williams, as editorofHEF's publication, Elsah History, and Charles Hosmerand Clenn Felch conducted classes, — archaeological digs and trips when students did research work and wrote papers for publication. (Some studentsactuallywereguesteditorsforanentireissueo(ElsahHistory.) Ournewlyelectedpresident,John Williains,whoonce, asastudent, benefitedtremendouslyfromall these classes and activities, hopes to usher in the rebirth of a wide ajid sincere interest in all things "Elsali" in the college community. March 3rd, at the HEF membership meeting in Farley's, both the mayor of Elsah and a representative ofThe PrincipiaCorporationwillattendtoinformthe membershipofpresent-dayplansandpolicy. Letus hopethe plans andpolicieswillbeableto moldintoonepositivethought,constructiveforallconcerned. A Principiaowned — house TheWanamakerHouse