Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939 PDF
Preview Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939
Dressing Modern Frenchwomen Stewart, Mary Lynn Published by Johns Hopkins University Press Stewart, Mary Lynn. Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939. Johns Hopkins University Press, 2008. Project MUSE. doi:10.1353/book.60338. https://muse.jhu.edu/. For additional information about this book https://muse.jhu.edu/book/60338 Access provided at 13 Dec 2022 03:03 GMT with no institutional affiliation This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. Dressing Modern Frenchwomen This page intentionally left blank DDrreessssiinngg Modern Frenchwomen Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939 Mary Lynn Stewart The Johns Hopkins UniversityPress Baltimore This book has been brought to publication with the generous assistance ofthe Karl and Edith Pribram Endowment. © 2008 The Johns Hopkins University Press All rights reserved. Published 2008 Printed in the United States ofAmerica on acid-free paper 2 4 6 8 9 7 5 3 1 The Johns Hopkins University Press 2715 North Charles Street Baltimore, Maryland 21218-4363 www.press.jhu.edu Library ofCongress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Stewart, Mary Lynn, 1945– Dressing modern Frenchwomen : marketing haute couture, 1919–1939 / Mary Lynn Stewart. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn-13: 978-0-8018-8803-8 (hardcover : alk. paper) isbn-10: 0-8018-8803-4 (hardcover : alk. paper) 1. Women’s clothing industry—France—History—20th century. 2. Fashion merchandising—France—History—20th century. I. Title. hd9940.f8s84 2008 338.4'7687082—dc22 2007033661 A catalog record for this book is available from the British Library. Special discounts are available for bulk purchases ofthis book. For more information, please contact Special Sales at 410-516-6936 or [email protected]. The Johns Hopkins University Press uses environmentally friendly book materials, including recycled text paper that is composed ofat least 30 percent post-consumer waste, whenever possible. All ofour book papers are acid-free, and our jackets and covers are printed on paper with recycled content. Contents List ofIllustrations vii Acknowledgments ix Introduction xi PART I Gender, Genius & Publicity one Couturiers/Couturières 3 two Hybrid Modern 26 three Publicity 47 PART II Business & the Workplace four Business 69 five The Workplace 92 PART III Democratizing Fashion six Copying and Copyrighting 111 seven Shopping and Sewing 134 PART IV Modern Women eight The Politics ofModern Fashion 157 nine The Gender ofthe Modern 180 ten The Modern Woman? 200 Epilogue 224 Notes 233 Index 297 vi Illustrations Figure 1. Schiaparelli sweater 12 Figure 2. Schiaparelli suit and hat, ca. 1935 14 Figure 3. Sonja Delaunay coat 15 Figure 4. Jenny sports skirt and sweater 17 Figure 5. Louise Boulanger dress, 1928 19 Figure 6. Lanvin mother and daughter outfits 20 Figure 7. Socialites in Schiaparelli, Paquin, and Worth models, 1933 38 Figure 8. Cover ofFemina, 1927 43 Figure 9. Davidoffembroidery 79 Figure 10. Cover ofAu Bon Marché summer catalog, 1927 145 Figure 11. A socialite in culottes, 1933 178 Figure 12. Advertisement for Reps woolens, Vogue, 1923 190 Figure 13. Corset, Fourneau Barthe Sauvigny, 1905 217 Figure 14. Cadolle girdle, 1934 220 This page intentionally left blank
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