Dress and Ideology: Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present

261 Pages·2015·1.73 MB·English

by  Shoshana-Rose Marzel

DRESS AND
IDEOLOGY

DRESS AND
IDEOLOGY
Fashioning Identity from
Antiquity to the Present
EDITED BY
SHOSHANA-ROSE MARZEL
AND GUY D. STIEBEL
Bloomsbury Academic
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First published 2015
© Shoshana-Rose Marzel and Guy D. Stiebel, 2015
Shoshana-Rose Marzel and Guy D. Stiebel have asserted their right under the Copyright,
Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as editors of this work.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any
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A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN: HB: 978-1-4725-2549-9
PB: 978-1-4725-2934-3
ePDF: 978-1-4725-5808-4
ePub: 978-1-4725-5809-1
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CONTENTS
Authors vii
List of illustrations xi
Introduction, Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Bezalel Academy of
Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel 1
PART ONE NATIONHOOD
17
1 Secular Fashion in Israel, Oz Almog, University of
Haifa, Israel 19
2 Sartorial Boundaries on the Chinese Frontier, Antonia
Finnane, University of Melbourne, Australia 37
PART TWO RELIGION
53
3 Rabbinical Dress in Italy, Asher Salah, Bezalel Arts and
Design Academy Jerusalem, Israel 55
4 Zoomorphic Brooches in Roman Britain: Decoration or
Religious Ideology?, Lindsay Allason-Jones, Newcastle
University, UK 69
5 How Muslim Women Dress in Israel, Oz Almog, University
of Haifa, Israel 87
vI CONTENTS
PART THREE IDENTITY
109
6 Ideology, Fashion and the Darlys’ “Macaroni” Prints, Peter
McNeil, University of Technology Sydney, Australia 111
7 Feminist Ideologies in Postmodern Japanese Fashion: Rei
Kawakubo Meets Marie Antoinette in Downtown Tokyo,
Ory Bartal, Bezalel Arts and Design Academy Jerusalem,
Israel 137
8 Military Dress as an Ideological Marker in Roman
Palestine, Guy D. Stiebel, Tel Aviv University, Israel 153
PART FOUR POLITICS
169
9 Fashion and Feminism, Henriette Dahan-Kalev, Ben
Gurion University, Israel and Shoshana-Rose Marzel,
Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel 171
10 Fashion Politics and Practice: Indian Cottons and
Consumer Innovation in Tokugawa Japan and Early
Modern England, c. 1600–1800, Beverly Lemire, University
of Alberta, Canada 189
11 Breastfeeding, Ideology and Clothing in nineteenth-
Century France, Gal ventura, The Hebrew University of
Jerusalem, Israel 211
12 Dress as Political Ideology in Rabelais and Voltaire
Utopias, Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Bezalel Academy of Arts
and Design Jerusalem, Israel 231
Index 245
AUTHORS
Editors
Shoshana-Rose Marzel
Dr. Shoshana-Rose Marzel is lecturer at the History and Theory department,
Bezalel, the Jerusalem Academy of Art and Design. Marzel specializes in fashion
studies (theory and history), gender studies and nineteenth-century French
novels. Her book on fashion in nineteenth-century French novels, L’Esprit du
chiffon: le vêtement dans le roman français du XIXème siècle, was published by
Peter Lang in 2005. She was invited editor of no. 39/2 (2006) of the academic
French periodical Archives Juives, revue d’histoire des Juifs de France, on
“Jews in the Clothes industry and commerce, in France,” and of no. 24 (2013)
of the online academic French periodical Bulletin du CRFJ, affiliated to the
CNRS (with Gal Ventura), on XIXth Century French Visual Culture, France and
International Convergences.
Guy D. Stiebel
Dr. Guy Stiebel is a lecturer in the Department of Archaeology and Near Eastern
Cultures at Tel Aviv University. He specializes in military archaeology and history
and themes of material culture. In the past 17 years, Stiebel has co-directed the
excavations at Masada on behalf of the Institute of Archaeology, The Hebrew
University of Jerusalem. His study focuses upon material culture in Classical
Palestine and mostly the encounter between material culture and literary
sources. He earned his PhD at University College London (UCL) for the study
Armis et litteris: Roman military Equipment of Early Roman Palestine in Light of
the Archaeological and historical Sources. His four years’ post-doc fellowship,
at the Orion Center for the Study of the Dead Sea Scrolls and Associated
Literature, was devoted to the study of the archaeology (realia aspects) of the
War Scroll. Stiebel has published over 40 papers and co-edited six books.
He serves as a co-editor of the series New Studies in the Archaeology of
vIII AUTHORS
Jerusalem and its Region of the Hebrew University and the Israel Antiquities
Authority.
Contributors (in alphabetical order)
Lindsay Allason-Jones
Lindsay Allason-Jones was Director of the Centre for Interdisciplinary Artefact
Studies and Reader in Roman Material Culture at Newcastle University until
she retired in 2011. She was previously Director of Archaeological Museums
for the university. An acknowledged authority on artefacts, particularly those
from Hadrian’s Wall, Roman Britain and Roman and Medieval Sudan, she is the
author of 13 books, including Women in Roman Britain and Daily Life in Roman
Britain. She is Trustee of many of the Hadrian’s Wall museums, as well as the
Hadrian’s Art Trust.
Oz Almog
Oz Almog is Associate Professor (full tenure), Department of Land of Israel
Studies, University of Haifa. He has published widely in scholarly journals and
edited and authored books, including The Sabra: The Creation of the New
Jew (University of California Press: Berkeley, 2000) and Wielokulturowy Izrael
(Multicultural Israel) [Polish] (2011). Wydawnictwo Wyzszej Szkoly Pedagogicznej,
TWP w Warszawie, Warszawa. His Farewell to “Srulik”: Changing Values among
the Israeli Elite, 2 vols (Zmora Bitan and Haifa University Press: 2004) was a
bestseller in Israel and won two awards: the Bahat Award (University of Haifa
Press and Zemora-Bitan Press) and the Rozen-Zvi Award (Faculty of Law, Tel
Aviv University).
Ory Bartal
Dr. Ory Bartal is currently head of the History and Theory Department at Bezalel,
the Jerusalem Academy of Arts and Design. His work focuses on Japanese
Visual Culture and Contemporary Design. Bartal earned his Ph.D. in Cultural
Studies from Tel Aviv University, and also holds an M.B.A. degree from Aoyama
Gakuin University in Tokyo, Japan. In addition, Bartal is also an expert in
Japanese marketing and business practices, with over 10 years of experience
in senior positions at leading technology companies active in the Japanese
market. Bartal contributes regularly to scientific journals.
AUTHORS Ix
Henriette Dahan-Kalev
Prof. Henriette Dahan-Kalev is a political scientist by training and specializes in
gender and politics (theory and practice of political resistance). Dahan-Kalev is
the founder of the Gender Studies Program at the Ben Gurion University and
regularly contributes to scientific journals. Her article “You’re so Pretty—You
Don’t Look Moroccan” (Israeli Studies 6 [2001], pp. 1–14) is considered ground-
breaking. It is often reprinted and taught in introductory courses of postcolonial
and critical studies in Israel and abroad.
Antonia Finnane
Antonia Finnane is Professor of History at the University of Melbourne with a
research specialization in the social and cultural history of early modern and
modern China. Her publications include Speaking of Yangzhou: A Chinese City,
1550–1850 (Harvard East Asian Monographs 2004), winner of the 2006 Levenson
award for a work on pre-twentieth-century China, and Changing Clothes in
China: Fashion, Nation, History (New York: Columbia University Press, 2008). At
present she serves as an associate editor (pre-1898 China) of the Journal of Asian
Studies. Her current research concerns the impact of Maoism on small shops in
Beijing during the periods of “socialist transformation” and the Cultural Revolution.
Beverly Lemire
Beverly Lemire received her D.Phil. from Oxford University and between 1987
and 2004 taught British History at the University of New Brunswick, Canada. In
2004 she moved to the University of Alberta, where she serves as Professor of
History and Henry Marshall Tory Chair in the Department of History and Classics
and the Department of Human Ecology. Her publications include Fashion’s
Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1660–1800 (1991);
Dress, Culture and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade before the Factory
(1997); The Business of Everyday Life: Gender, Practice and Social Politics in
Britain 1600–1800 (2005); and Cotton (2011), in the series Textiles that Changed
the World. Recent edited works include a four-volume collection of documents
The British Cotton Trade (2009) and The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society:
Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times (2010).
Peter McNeil
Peter McNeil is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology
Sydney and Professor of Fashion Studies at Stockholm University. His work