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EICHER 'LABETH HOUSE•QUEENELIZABETH USE • QUEEN ELIZABETH HOUSE • JEN ELIZABETH HOUSE • QUEEN Digitized by the Internet Archive 2012 in http://archive.org/details/dressgendermakinOObarn Dress and Gender Dress is one of the most significant markers of gender identity, yet it has rarely been explored in depth. This volume opens up fascinating aspects ofthe relationship between genderand dress by covering agreat variety of ethnographic areas reaching from Asia, Europe, and Africa to North and South America. The time span is equally wide-ranging and offers present-day material as well as studies based on historical data. Ruth Barnes is an art historian who has done field research on textiles of Lembata, in Eastern Indonesia. The results are published in her book The Ikat Textiles ofLamalera: A Study ofan Eastern Indonesian Weaving Tradition, and in several articles. She also has worked with ethnographic collections at the Pitt Rivers Museum, Oxford. Currently she is preparing a catalogue ofthe NewberrycollectionofIndian block-printedtextilesattheAshmolean Museum, Oxford University. Joanne B. Eicher is a professor in the Department of Design, Housing, and Apparel at the University of Minnesota. Her current fieldwork focuses on the significanceofdressandtextilesamongtheKalahariofNigeria.Shehasauthored Nigerian HandcraftedTextiles andAfrican Dress: A SelectandAnnotatedBib- liography, and coauthored Dress, Adornment, and the Social Order and The Visible Self: Perspectives on Dress. Cross-Cultural Perspectives on Women GeneralEditors: ShirleyArdenerandJackieWaldren, forTheCentreforCross-CulturalResearchonWomen, UniversityofOxford Vol. 1: PersonsandPowersofWomen inDiverseCultures Editedby ShirleyArdener Vol. 2: DressandGender:MakingandMeaning EditedbyRuthBarnes andJoanneB. Eicher Vol.3: TheAnthropologyofBreast-Feeding:NaturalLaworSocialConstruct Editedby VanessaMaher Vol.4: DefiningFemales Editedby ShirleyArdener Vol.5: WomenandSpace EditedbyShirleyArdener Vol. 6: ServantsandGentlewomen totheGoldenLand: TheEmigration of Single WomentoSouthAfrica, 1820-1939 Cecillie Swaisland Vol. 7: MigrantWomen EditedbyGinaBuijs Vol8: Gender:SymbolsandSocialPractices EditedbyVigdisBroch-Due, IngridRudie andToneBleie Vol. 9: BilingualWomen:AnthropologicalApproachestoSecondLanguage Use EditedbyPaulineBurton, Ketaki Dysonand ShirleyArdener Vol. 10:Gender,DrinkandDrugs Editedby MaryonMacDonald Vol. 11: WomenandMissions,PastandPresent EditedbyFionaBowie, DeborahKirkwoodandShirleyArdener Vol. 12: Women inMuslimCommunities:ReligiousBeliefandSocialRealities Editedby CamilliaFawziEl-SolhandJudy Mabro Vol. 13: WomenandProperty, WomenasProperty EditedbyReneeHirschon CROSS-CULTURAL PERSPECTIVES ON WOMEN VOL. 2 I Dress and Gender Making and Meaning in Cultural Contexts Edited by Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher BERG Providence Oxford I Publishedin 1992,paperbackedition, 1993 by Berg Pubishers, Inc. Editorialoffices: 221 Waterman Street, Providence,RI02906, U.S.A. 150CowleyRoad, Oxford0X4 1JJ,UK © Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher, 1992 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the permission of Berg Publishers. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Dress and gender: Making and meaning in cultural contexts. - (Cross-cultural perspective on women) I. Barnes, Ruth II. Eicher, Joanne B. III. Series 391.009 ISBN 854967206(cloth) 85496 8652 (paper) Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Dress and gender : Making and meaning in cultural contexts / edited by Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-85496-720-6 — — — 1. Costum—e Sex differences Cross-cultural studies. 2. Costume Social aspects Cross-cultural studies. I. Barnes, Ruth, 1947-. II. Eicher,Joanne Bubolz. GT525.D74 1991 91-15885 391—dc20 CIP PrintedintheUnitedStatesby E. B. Edwards Brothers,Lillington,NC. Contents Preface Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher vii Introduction Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher 1 1. Definition and Classification of Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender Roles Joanne B. Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins 8 2. Women as Headhunters: The Making and Meaning of Textiles in a Southeast Asian Context Ruth Barnes 29 3. Cut and Sewn: The Textiles of Social Organization in Thailand H. Leedom Lefferts, Jr. 44 4. Purse-Proud: Of Betel and Areca Nut Bags in Laboya (West Sumba, Eastern Indonesia) Danielle Geirnaert 56 5. Gender Boundaries in the Production of Guatemalan Textiles Cherri M. Pancake 76 6. The Jewish Kippa Sruga and the Social Construction of Gender in Israel Suzanne Baizerman 92 7. Quilted Apparel and Gender Identity: An American Case Study Catherine Cerny 106 8. Lacemaking in Venetian Culture Lidia Sciama 121 Contents VI 9. Pachamama: The Inka Earth Mother of the Long Sweeping Garment Penny Dransart 145 10. Kalahari Dress in Nigeria: Visual Analysis and Gender Implications Susan O. Michelman and Tonye V. Erekosima 164 11. Whose Sleeves . . .? Gender, Class, and Meaning in Japanese Dress of the Seventeenth Century Louise Allison Cort 183 12. The Significance of Dress for the Orthodox Hindu Woman Julia Leslie 198 13. Continuity and Change in Hindu Women's Dress O. P. Joshi 214 14. Dressing for Dinner in the Bush: Rituals of Self-Definition and British Imperial Authority Helen Callaway 232 15. Clothes Encounters of the Gynecological Kind: Medical Mandates and Maternity Modes in the USA, 1850-1990 Rebecca Bailey 248 16. Dress and Modes of Address: Structural Forms for Policewomen Malcolm Young 266 Notes on Contributors 286 Index 289 Preface Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Richer The seed for this volume was planted in the spring and summer of 1988, when Joanne Eicher was on sabbatical leave at the Centre for Cross-Cultural Research on Women (CCCRW), Queen Elizabeth House, Oxford. We each had worked with research topics of dress and cloth, and while aware of the importance of both in a social and historical context, we shared a concern about problems of definition arising out ofthe existing literature on the topic. When Shir- ley Ardener asked us to convene a workshop on dress, we decided to take an interdisciplinary and cross-cultural approach in relating dress to gender. We solicited contributions from anthropologists, art histo- rians, and scholars trained in textiles and clothing. Our original intent was to develop a dialogue of colleagues from the United Kingdom, continental Europe, and North America, but this was extended to in- clude participants from Australia and Asia as well; the fieldwork used as a base for analyzing the topic included Asia, Africa, Europe, the Middle East, as well as North and South America. The workshop titled "Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning" was held in April 1989 in Oxford, under the auspices of the CCCRW. Pre- senters whose papers were available for inclusion in this volume are: Rebecca Bailey, Suzanne Baizerman, Ruth Barnes, Helen Callaway, Catherine Cerny, Louise Cort, Penny Dransart, Joanne Eicher and Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins (joint paper), Danielle Geirnaert, Leedom Lef- ferts, Julia Leslie, Susan Michelman, Cherri Pancake, Lidia Sciama, and Malcolm Young. Although O. P. Joshi from India could not at- tend, his paper was read. Tonye V. Erekosima, who also was not able to attend, has coauthored a paper with Michelman for this book. Pre- senters whose papers were not available for publication were Cathe- rine Daly, Jenny Littlewood, and Julie Marcus. As invited discussants, Shirley Ardner, Joy Hendry, and Howard Morphy added constructive comments. vn Vlll Preface Theessayspublishedinthisvolumeareallbasedonmaterialpresented during the workshop. The intellectual stimulation and vitality of We discussion presented impetus for revisions of the manuscripts. are most grateful to all participants for the effort and concentrated atten- tion they gave to their contributions as well as the timely manner in which they met publication deadlines. We want to acknowledge help from many sources for the completion of this book. Funding for travel for Joanne Eicher came from the Of- fice of International Education and the College of Human Ecology, International Programs, University of Minnesota. Substantial financial helpforwordprocessingcame from the DepartmentofDesign, Housing and Apparel, University ofMinnesota. By name, we wish to thank Bon- nie Maas Morrison, Buckman Professor and Head of Design, Housing and Apparel; Charleen Klarquist, word processing specialist, without whose help this volume could not have been finished; as well as Mary Heltsley, Dean; and Shirley Baugher, Associate Dean, College of Hu- man Ecology. Unnamed are those who supplied travel funds for our participants to attend the workshop and those who helped in the tedious processing ofmanuscripts to be sent for editing. Whether support came from the participants themselves or others, we appreciate that the workshop took place. We would also like to thank Annette Weiner and Jane Schneider for convening the Wenner-Gren conference on Cloth and the Organization of Human Experience in 1983 at Troutbeck, in Amenia, New York, that brought us together for the first time. Ruth Barnes Joanne B. Eicher Department of Eastern Art Department of Design, Ashmolean Museum Housing, and Apparel Oxford University of Minnesota St. Paul

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