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DK. Eyewitness Travel: Turkey PDF

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TURKEY EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TURKEY Main Contributor Suzanne Swan Produced by Struik New Holland Publishing (Pty) Ltd, Cape Town, South Africa Managing Editors Alfred Lemaitre, Laura Milton Managing Art Editor Steven Felmore Editors Amichai Kapilevich, Anna Tanneberger Editorial Assistant Christie Meyer Designer Peter Bosman Map Co-ordinator John Loubser Cartographer Carl Germishuys Picture Researchers Sandra Adomeit, Karla Kik DTP Check Damian Gibbs Production Manager Myrna Collins Main Contributor Suzanne Swan Other Contributors Rosie Ayliffe, Rose Baring, Barnaby Rogerson, Canan Sılay, Dominic Whiting Photographers Kate Clow, Terry Richardson, Anthony Souter, Dominic Whiting, Linda Whitwam, Francesca Yorke Contents Illustrators Richard Bonson, Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Bruno De Robillard, Richard Draper, Steven Felmore, Paul Guest, Ian Lusted, Maltings Partnership, How to Use this Guide 6 Chris Orr & Associates, David Pulvermacher, Paul Weston, John Woodcock Printed and Bound In Malaysia. Introducing First American edition 1995 Turkey 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Discovering 345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 Turkey 10 Reprinted with Revisions 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016 Copyright 2003, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Putting Turkey A Penguin Random House Company on the Map 16 All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, A Portrait of Turkey 18 photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Turkey Through A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. the Year 38 ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-1-4654-4050-1 The History of Turkey 44 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; i.e, the “First Floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Commagene stone head on Mount Nemrut Front cover main image: El Nazar, a rock-cut church in the Görome Valley, Cappadocia (Nemrut Daği) Kayaköy, an abandoned Greek village in Mediterranean Turkey that is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site Turkey Region by Region Turkey at a Glance 152 Thrace and the Sea of Marmara 154 The Aegean 174 Mediterranean Emblems of Istanbul, the Haghia Sophia and Blue Mosque Turkey 208 Travellers’ Needs Ankara and Western Anatolia 240 Where to Stay 326 The Black Sea 264 Where to Eat The village of Üçağız, on the Mediterranean coast and Drink 340 Cappadocia and Istanbul Area Central Anatolia 280 Shopping in by Area Turkey 362 Eastern Anatolia 304 Istanbul at a Glance 66 Entertainment in Turkey 368 Seraglio Point 68 Outdoor Activities 372 Sultanahmet 82 Survival Guide The Bazaar Quarter 98 Practical Information 380 Beyoğlu 110 Travel Information 388 Further Afield 116 General Index 400 Istanbul Street Finder 138 Vendor selling boza, a drink made from Phrase Book 419 lightly fermented grain Sumela Monastery (see p276) 6 (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most from sections, giving information on major your stay in Turkey. It provides expert sights, with photographs, maps and recommend ations and detailed practical illustrations. Suggestions for restaurants, advice. Introducing Turkey locates the hotels, entertainment and shopping are country geographically, and sets it in found in Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival context. Istanbul Area by Area and Turkey Guide contains useful advice on everything Region by Region are the main sightseeing from changing money to travelling by bus. Istanbul Area by Area ISTANBUL AREA BY AREA (cid:2) 69 All pages relating to Istanbul have Turkey’s largest city has been SERAGLİO POINT the same colour thumb tabs. daorpieveiadnse.i nEdga ic nwhto ith hfao sau ilrti sss tio gowhf tntsh eceeh isanipggth etrs TttoIpiotttnhhhhhcfu i eeeecBsebb u ymSrwudlhiepzecioiolseaila dmelibmenyd isoutn,tie einifwaingnn lnMa dgsnoec t oi e aoaefnptof triddg oomumrt esmhfibr n edaatesyihtsrl tn p a,Hoteso ghm rtoa afoOr e Trdnatome ohtgt dntomepeoro antgak n mGhsf niatttoceoehpdoa r plrnBiıri ds4 ioyoPeo es0s s sasstunei0ih lpttala etciaHyhnoca.ote ooedTnn mam,ror .s ru n d psaas,.a rl n e kydxs, TraocwgpMfraonhtraoiumohtvdermhskuee bepg .rrn i Tlu eAtalitdiusndmlrtd asertgg j keca,aha a eemrlascamriy u nedivrus reongaee seonnstn escn tpodts.uo o ot weO malhtw lnhinernet, i e cd tebg wiwots d ieNpin ioht ettceaahhhnonovalee sll lirlyet a ll Aupoie,E vo otrfrcuainh ncfstjsb ehhisetetolh.w.a id pancPee ep a ai aoonallarssalftrtor oe caaftogieam n nafi d c d tepa hsnul e tb s lic A locator map shows clearly tApAhfelilae rstilpi dgah rsheeet rscda taeli orspecnl arn iccbuoeemvsd eob. rTfse h irmneetd aeF nruaeynrst dth. e r M12C4HM359qShiiuosg uTAIFSHStnsmoooiurhrearuccpukbprguhthmkeinlehcmaiascemtr ieepaia Bis asaoSneiı un lE lPt a ttoMPi aiarson lgoteadlifiaidnnro ciAt can tenGePehl g apMmlslpaau e7ancst2ne eI–cuIdIs3 me pp78–9 S67P8T0utarrr eSCCGkkoeaaüsisğfğtlehhsuar a laakBonğçnğaeeadlt ş uPCh mC aBosroeauk ut Srhtorystka yaradğr ıds 00 ymaerdtrses 400400 1wothhee Arre ra etrheaea s Ma oreaf atp his eF i onci rtr yee.laatsioyn r etofe rence, plotted on an Area Map. SirkeciSirkeci SaKrayEbNurNnuEDY CADDESİ sloigchattes da roen n au mmbaper. eCdit ya ncde ntre Ietonhanfeso ty rnh mSctuehoigm aa mhlptoiettoasecr prnaia’cst.t a oesailgn Gaoh sltrta hsdin tbee cfy reos c uillgailssottheeswg tdtsohs re i ys , See also Street Finde r C Am EADBDRİEUaBSAİSKNpNASMUİ HC 5UKUÜATSKRED SÜAMOCMDKAİAEİYLTDYRE EAKDLROEAENNKYBSCAKİÖAİAHSĞÖTDBÜŞAITED DEKN ACEAÜT ASV HSDİCCECNGAAYADDNDüİOGİDElAhENRSaDA ESİS ÜSRRADAMEDLOAnAKTAeCYRAİS EADDKHACADTAUN SSOIKA ĞISO K KAHSİPAŞACADDESİCankurtaran KENNEDY CADDESİ (SAHİLYOLU) SnsI(ssitogtea aevhrnsi spt bisitpn ouad1rlri 3 cseS9ha ta–toreelu4s tel4odht) e. mmF siiinasgsrdh.kteesr dt mh oaatn p tsh e such as Museums and Galleries, The rooftops of the H7ar0em at(cid:2) t heI ToSpkTapAı PNalaBceU wiLth thAe RBoEsphAor oBus Ybe hAindREA For keys to symbols see back flap SERAGLİO POINT (cid:2) 71 2 SThaMtnriosed se gqHtiuiv-sebetsosy, r P-iacSa rbBtkruisrei dladen’sitnd- gM eGsya.aerpd e ns SCTpcohINjrfuteehhuor owswfouteturotweep a rsrsojcrsauosihu unhhe dpxraatg mtatalldsiesar eyoriteyodnptshnt n ,edoootet ettyh spsf htds-f iehT.oepte baow Gienrm loCemp üo cnsrnyaukloope hftaodseudrya-tapf rer cem noSaıOt er nyePğfioistn na adthat Pigrtol nroafda,rCa m puarc oamewk eTosa hu,ce. aain moreinToslt t tlsh typy,aeop t ioaoapnoas itrlff:t ndfhadw fa tewmk ceT lhaaa,re h e Fsconsu ahw oiiondoJlnrelasaau nplut,tenerl mhc sliiCgissneuesı, eeo g soa iaFFn aun nla aB rtsrtsneiitseytieeim. dyrzhrotsav at faas(Biri nnsct tdbüehetteg,ifae le ntse ya kh p e , rfe eoe6 r 0ary ,). . Ogwwf8rronoeo mlcGoucedoün t eamdhlhd esreao oGh nssfüeeh eTa la gohPtd paaaoernkrfd ae kitnep hPn ıwea Pi rnhcaki i lttcapyhhcr.eoe t v,oo ti udheteesecs r a pe ceOrcatCacmtrlooofavri2mnloseclesemdsaic c .aonst aaniaf olE l rd tlsnAc mho toosarevp cptto ehwuihhrfrÇ(e ee aaosatirs enehgnrm M,eitl oleitdd ri,pia eu lPqT’a7fsokaaous6z uevgsge)zrriiu mkltrlituiieicorihnesemneaaigshss trl. Tnwhhaeamreseh Eeaedxfdte eb chreu iasct ahipouaunsnbeedl irtsch’ s abe Fn eeodhxu eesnwactduoaitnriidong n .ise rs o LSQBeoUASeTUAc ZSHALRatETTArAtEeRRoNeAtr HF MiMnEdaTeSpEr RmGAaLpIO 5 POINT veiaecwh osifg thhtes ekeeiyn gar aeraesa i.n KApPtO9o6oel taR yt r(Scooat eSeunmc, ow obdooTağc lfonrsni tGouatmyohc üh dgmkdieglseehiço eta ba t neiovPthnonoeşaeleoe ndmhlr r ts rran oerootStalemafne,uumw )nptSs be rt dsaeosahlntiitssonmnkert peli.cat nieeneeğ det ı. 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Itbsfonhiatr e tt aah hmns,e d yla o ohisnnuaw gr reaao araroeestm tpiyn (o eh oturhfom ltetihik trseetote. eTodaum mtrok) i , s h iaopinntrr ft odocravuericmtldttauiiainolrt gnaaiolt , dn ctare onaotnc aniitmin elwegxpdht oi, at rastt n ah dnis tt ory For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp330–39 and pp346–61 can be seen today. HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE (cid:2) 7 1 Introduction Turkey Region by Region TURKEY REGION BY REGION (cid:2) 175 THE AEGEAN A general account Apart from Istanbul, the rest of HcoaPokrrabtotTrtthDvÇHtaTeeuohhhhnlnthi hernefoaeeiMsasmg li eeeesro etianaegtcHiulrsiscgtih ii loeond nwe sTo rrDaeoino oeCbnai e,erusd ekcnssds tdrlavpnymauits sle pasridketf ee wtea e r akft ao snaçaapaoi ooiunicrr niraapstmhrrfasclsitinetlnrmiye eee nnxt a haz emtmeAnA. tPo oest ug ssaEna or)daT a depps, fs (ueotearp nptshn iiBtiipiwonetrnhs ordsacdoyhhHireo heypau nint aeor a neAneeM ttrvh epoonugtlCgdassghor s ssi edaAimons ptnhtkie a uus ceainsesi r inir-ie erctalDLlmms lostonweydaodeifeaseg sra iaimam rogomaecp rsa.ntaaec bne b’.reos Tsfr ddryigo)glidMea er ii u,uolnr.f asbm coaa irTenn taudmtnyg 5n,Mraan ehum tr n meynmcoieu,ernhcR ddert0 ouseteld c aiktstoyeaea h pw0betfhgğlo obuete h sl mr,dn0soo olAe ielnehynsmru aaeao i t fnslaire sacyoo Rnn,s . c w,n m teniCsd gnea(yamCsosatddht cndal aahee to elhama s deeua yslotZrr d aefjtnreeh emis ono,l rifea anT pyc a wecdfetucuao,nuu po’ ttoserM.en brfuui rso it n at k rc Glrhr aseaeeseeeei rretss, -y y me na,c e tfntoaakr rdmok bMdCSCtRpEasshfBiiiasnahs emtunepeohaaulah enTTi ctaaksekclvvvdyhrdiei rhhl di cunnl ti hnleeie dA raegrioseeBe tsottnunl Ro ntsihapau oein oniweAAloamu owa tsieWroalodkgfstiefeels mnnoe rnciaK’ wi rs;csuodotggna u.n anu h SsaafanmnH nsaeeglom,imdtşsnye gssdaaads atartp MJ hu)h lnnltVaa hleado ie,sise trret’ttk i raisbaoeh esrrrd ulssso a Hgeolu s,h.uppotn esr rfo ıgmoTuisea,hain ’rhunfs lotfhiirinldMtr oagoh ita ieyB blstcMead,ausnpnineh. taaan o ta si sSt datp reİicsrnK acuzo ,imentr ito aiimolwlndAhsrnynrv iatn actcan i eeag,neasoiigo edoarrsatt dsn.sci;uthfd a es un ijfBoi ht osu rieten Cmhsdanioims annnssr iihne sg(nsd ttaoK etsmb u d t h rrmlauorfu hWSauk reo tonopuSBcşese.almsf oa tidtfhTotel ofn çB tsdrertheJer.dhryluieohbo.addrtse r esknsoe s uh.e to ,ı -k imn nf og, f ohogbhtwivthi iffaioshvhs esteittetaah hoaocdntse cre r eh ayt hshnlvoot ae attter wnoruronelaeoddrffgd c,ti psaeeih etoccyiesrxeoah.n dp a npaa nliosarersade i,v n ca eit nre gr thnteuh mcrceehto bgobauiewpeonrgtnneteirdssnry, . na Toeisnihann ddce ga hi sv m o Riiwgdfeo hegiesttdaihtos c i nianthnoa t ste cloev hrMpi essaaasiepttrpv iaatne etragneert. Each area of Turkey can be easily identified by its colour coding, shown on the inside front cover. 1 76 (cid:2) TURKEY REGION BY REGION THE AEGEAN (cid:2) 177 3EAttgmiabtsMccttFS1234567890qwertyuiopasdfgjThk00n2 rWbtbFutcfamB1Chhhhroi aiotomekeoehrgiitarn4o soeetroieeeiponug0 texylpnuauhi reTrBKDLALGÇABFİÇSEAMHADPMMBMBDseohl0accnadhtzar rerdsau rnomcpaaTTtehooerAsueensr epyyedaldhie0emeoüiassietoa6 akie iitdeerloodecbkerhpchl çefddnhedllvşnfcshşerdeınntdlçxeg yotueam r frn rnneuulrs yaiatwamçte eraseaBnntrr arbmuhıra üeurdi css iuartpof agnuu edEa fammokrrodt sz ealeirSpluerknaB rpoktı ko syime mnguee( lmmmlulsippta edkTelmd(cid:2)epeaowoakn n io2PM sayü tpr,oai dsssd ’ umpps rroishu sn actosfaeaafl hsm n t1 6dtlei mtlhiıpPrtpaaatuK y22hhs rlinin sa e etrn o8Muemaseo nRe(e D eeiu plp 00pairaTpksliedioDAadatRmlPpeiag p 2ytd psan rn r s Rnrgs26t1 1tilm pmerTerstrap –ate evomlnhhspuUihenu ––9Gi8wemKarhiyedn2 hhiuiv1t3uy traseg pl28sh6(37ri)tetiy. 0sghoaçse9nmfl eAl zenia por5p 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hrtukofrpeedr rsbt M ac sa rooe vchaottarutrrpukt potaegMtisrwooe c deoena eh m o sterohstiahediteodm o atere uouisnmvrolrmws asthero uno a lsaers tsl s eonf a nbo rspsagans a ihe vte reak rtlttniratnieortnM inhodfsompreulir ,elle dhrdwn neeo clgwb ei io t mqnit j ta ywnoop.sHsdnsue, lugedaeaofbh hmi ae uhiCvuteseAienw dtnfcee ir lg nnose ohcloree.l irnoeinoe asmaea r osaTtnietgaesOa kStda she u sahu or r suifda uo tl ldlnhcbtntoyaehn.oetce i dda aotolae rn stGmea ytrbdio l gar hedue.tt ftihrb Qrsek dtwe.rgos i f h i r svaueo tt htt iusue ebd,e eytisoo ei uhhshe cnef.an no ay ll eeo ifrrr sr ee te d d .a ’tvsk rsi er v elee y r e l df . Fa oAld2Voer icts saoaiT&TbicTicTscmthGM12345TE00snchhe cotaoohh myay r1e lauoaeme d 1alur eel– et (NBBGCrl SC bC0 lsdeoewt5ma r5rppraaaraüoprte2res tolekacpys2merz isat5 yttlsrRmirvaav au ,tmuaseu2etlsaS hin2aei iliitgoeastokyres tgrr),ahlro ora e rTlerel iiiedmt 4nba Rneetnn auerfurMu s1oln.tncaea einlni ea s soaeo2maaMrsdrtmalved–dnhleres nsu rgf snsp rI1i iSAc Ç o Tsv, soisg nM ohoei’4ahnuMdab.athcatp orr i haldinioaao5Esl eunP3dsno dl viLtMiuwC.o tsa9Hae0 r ueAg mis3Esİws &lsienre0p.syrtR eeeT0d tokcsuMtgOeAueidnin0 euiec iwruk RTcw nnaps idgÜamcv asps nhci Cogneo ehR t leeo aatog e Ktiaoniri vuinsg rseit fnuatus, aoC da au 8ea timis trrinwiAnctninstafeoehcfmhDieetmo uaDmf gntcssibnOeuelldA .ral seAl mua– rTa rlrf r e.pS dbtnoeÇ AnnULUSALsliatuAllT caM1e toatrB tsQdAn pEGEMENİLK CAD oütk eoe Eu oTu m.trY uusÜkent D eRTm(a 0k Kel.rKr5etOmhsA lemuRaaiDnri(EtYibubtjsdipPpasllf Oaste ehnh pnhoreN)lepeirar weeniM oettidiCenumzlc r uci eABfs MdadcaiefsCİi- MlolnleDaStrn mnea aihauralKu(aBoaErHsrelYENİYsoçOcLgas-Eu sre Ym l actgz ma eeaubea,LCsutaltDz rerAeEuatraa yhamsbDnrlylfa tamdMoa&rbaamla oe,deoreld fn ro )uenocwii hr(iramh ns VrteosnMsmo ipcgtle E,ogniedo ehdtB nNnaUrt KrAef o Et nea hRSlobtgffoDBa hle,Th opssAgİiotnxvrs sK RAitcep.hdrupredO , s weKeSFe kAa t eToe A2nAstCpHGhHH tyd EANen oacAoi ,tst0iorDt, aeCAKRo bqI erine u6umCwLaE Sg euM (usesdM–KraltkUçtaAe.hricSEhpi,e dmti7isET sNNRsçedvsyALidA t )teF Ecehn .RarA wCveo e hkhI Bi SArirsS vf1)OckO 9fiDao i KeY iiMK h a.lcsvA DA tOYneGee odIhoSLI atT.MrSdnO UtK a eço rsieay mes rhenaNr ieserMtBopEAvop(mm tdshUpsaiSylfnoar elTdw(T(3P*gc1(V naouoblAin TOc0rltkavFeit52 rrr ethAucr de2MoIThagnca t.0seiysH gF Sgnh5 e umiru(nnutM tce3faec o ko/2tUrro u Irtsrc5ttrNo NeuchsmEr)T bkiiefaİ hppn R,e n cmla 60 o7lk o oliaTe MnOea aoae s -0(s9E ehav nhwrnL a7thrkriAdlr GeR02 eysagRao u l beİ5ntTemINMyo .h osri nr.t5v oo l-rb Ea lSe ymnomlaonBf_oteudaf2f U oyf oraL’dhont(rlw ğn G ahc ia a49 umyOlam Cbetrfaeslnast 1 rar rmnrY isyysevem)EcpsMgotHi.fd o.ai, e) amoblrsmkn, ele@ at k ada(ooecmitfpE as,eAas0oEaien adf achctalbdpr b r lab ros2eorhie)ssbdch Cd kt teo.o mNk ah5uiM) ief Ns dDiiosn.ResoMe s tt lenl2K t)etp e sio.rEahoaolr .sa tlt)a e ei anIrmİ nvLclrthsil dw4çro çtaerehyeaehgrmse ihiwhm I1emmmf(cid:2)saosde tnssunuf e eSauoW2it e e y o abu,atigoqamdşra a leefsTonr t1eaaenlen wnlnr u drhlalgıa20tceerf.riem, syied srdhsnan kp. ske aorc .r 0 it fe esn,l m sai y r5tp , e ve twteroshe sh,t e oaao r nlee the practical information you will need to plan your visit. projecAtslE sfonuT gnokldwnaeoneEdwdr,n ’bsnitg y fwali irtsssaa thtxs hf pTooeaorn eyLweeiigo eronsnrf. Attsm.hihm saoa tkGbruedeegles artlh sshaft srnio ast Sdfo m aha ihe tniFipa mgasvwutoeeipmtr sscep,ui acdoanpkm-rkBs tH suoyi nalztneh al1g lneo0 otf2o ittn5rhhie.g eeT is rnheh faeriinapl g.d lsa,s s KEY 4 Turkey’s Top Sights FortdMgdSpfS1234567890qr hyhholaerayoerottmi isci5 TCLTSGFICCapdatnisteneirahhptn uaawh,alag tnelshnin hesersaclatn grnaii- sfetitd neaapeacrcnCGelolicroao enn-licnee a1emhousflesmnd k annl a4mhsaTd mnP T e asr cttoo u iibtroteh(nusn onimrWiwhfo nse awTn ggraHdcgteranogyeoaacot ee lasdSc Ewa1r enrutnBobrllsesnsa5srdldtemC a,s a s tsauad teu rhWt n itonkrseHittrses tye hdlec ’aestpsaeir mtheB ir)dn ilDlempT naneTlCI sm oiwyaR oh tnt,.ec uwsmhdoiws rna stri eamethss yateotct rs searelBark ec rfy Conue .a a.r s nm sdes e pp330–39 ande nptpOr3aun4tce6er– 61 EudPu.aopsryeri rntA idfhgtom eehtoodntpd wstbhsrt aaaooinnrsrreea saa gspj na Eeoarcx lsriilhte noa noi wnlbatidle iy,tt diwepm rofisnoe.tress . wanedre Dofi vtehre r Meceodvietreirnrga naemapnhorae from the floor AiK.nan tş chL i(aeissent eleDMlde4tadrTmNBtitinoe fhr rhpn0oiieneBaec vvsaueit–2edd-auaearvee nh sst15 smourutatrspehiyeiuui8e0zs rrnctnu aaei cueam)udr irwam crzenm hn sign rltlrnaeasa deehn ceaA d b l c s(-usab eoept f1peltrAcysuhnimo ce r3lfhrwi prasligeddeehawtic1rohi’so s nox eue aao–ak 1tw iarTppnsepr then1f4tStokit eopr te rfed6madtoibhfuairenlhric 4k o etfIlae litotglen tl si aphyccg ynrctfr rsl satwe aeaee weaseygbh)ptdnal .sit in uel oriythtrr s.sSsepd duehtee hf ucaros ud setnaachirtsepermeeeriehepnr k saiyomt nerssspao tshlev t2ntt htBtcoflwao eehi0ag ofsCasdrd ri y, ecefaie0apo.ec sr n nr0f tae s ud0kl . r oefdf HtasTcsoihirhgitc soyerhhte w octmavsreiee inopncoag stillbcor t tke kuhgienseieil ycdtdhie ar siao rnliive gnusgeshittstt e emti anarssni rgoa aehdp rn tas dsodd;v ,i wie sewmfssa nmecicptscrhio alitoib etprrietdes ad s n.. t

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