Table Of Content

E Y E W I T N E S S T R A V E L Vienna 001-001_EW_Vienna.indd 3 03/10/17 11:16 am E Y E W I T N E S S T R A V E L Vienna 001-001_EW_Vienna.indd 3 03/10/17 11:16 am E Y E W I T N E S S T R A V E L Vienna Main Contributor Stephen Brook 002-003_EW_Vienna.indd 2 03/10/17 11:12 am 002-003_EW_Vienna.indd 3 03/10/17 11:12 am E Y E W I T N E S S T R A V E L Vienna Main Contributor Stephen Brook 002-003_EW_Vienna.indd 3 03/10/17 11:12 am Contents Project Editor Carolyn Pyrah EdAirtot rEsd Mitoarc Suasl lHy aArndny, HKimbb Ianrgdl i s Introducing Vienna Vienna Area Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide Designers Vanessa Hamilton, by Area Andy Wilkinson Practical Information 238 Design Assistant Elly King Pircotduurec tRioense Hairlcahry E Sltenp hReonost Great Days in Vienna 10 SQtueaprhtearn s7d0om Where to Stay 192 Getting to Vienna 246 DTP Designer Adam Moore The History of Vienna 18 Where to Eat Contributors Hofburg Quarter 90 and Drink 200 Getting Around Gretel Beer, Rosemary Bircz, Caroline Bugler, Vienna at a Glance 42 Vienna 250 Deirdre Cofey, Fred Mawer Schottenring and Shops and Markets 220 Photographer Vienna Through Alsergrund 108 Street Finder 256 Peter Wilson the Year 64 Entertainment Ilustrators Museum and Townhall in Vienna 226 General Index 268 Rich Rarodb Dbirea pPeorl,l eSyt,e Apnhne nW Ginytaeprbayo, tChharmis Orr, Tinh Eeu Proupneksaal, the largest Baroque library Quarter 114 Children’s Vienna 232 Acknowledgments 285 First puP Dbrilonisrthleineddg a iKnidn G dbreoraustln eBdyr iLtnaim iCnih tineind 1a 9 94 by ONapsecrham anadrk t 136 Phrase Book 287 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Belvedere Quarter 144 18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 R 1e9p9r6in, 1te9d9 7w, i1th99 r8e,v 1is9io9n9s, 21090904, 21090915, Further Afield 160 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, 2018 Three Guided Walks 182 Copyright © 1994, 2018 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written The Neo-Classical Gloriette arcade at Schönbrunn Palace and Gardens permission of the copyright owner. A Cip catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-2413-0617-8 Floors are referred to throughout iein t hacec “ofirrdsta nfloceo rw” itsh t hBeri tfilsoho ru asabgoev;e Golden shield from Theater ground level. an der Wien The distinctive roof and one of the Heathen Towers of Stephansdom The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: Contents Vienna Area Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide by Area Practical Information 238 Stephansdom Where to Stay 192 Quarter 70 Getting to Vienna 246 Where to Eat Hofburg Quarter 90 and Drink 200 Getting Around Vienna 250 Schottenring and Shops and Markets 220 Alsergrund 108 Street Finder 256 Entertainment Museum and Townhall in Vienna 226 General Index 268 Quarter 114 Children’s Vienna 232 Acknowledgments 285 Opera and Phrase Book 287 Naschmarkt 136 Belvedere Quarter 144 Further Afield 160 Three Guided Walks 182 The Neo-Classical Gloriette arcade at Schönbrunn Palace and Gardens Golden shield from Theater an der Wien The Burgtheater 004-005_EW_Vienna.indd 5 03/10/17 11:12 am 6  H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E  7 Vienna Area Map HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE Vienna Area by Area t tThheis m Eyoinesiwtm firutonmme so ysfo T durairfv fsiectalu Gylt uiyni.d TVehie ehn eonlppae swn yiotnhug get mtarlilap tphs sef ra oinmmdp Violliruetnsatnrat t,s iaiog rnhivst.es I,rt w tarilitspho a pinhdcol futoodugerrs aw dpaahlyks s, Tmst fuhihxlaiel s mp c gc h(aousaileniopde utse ieinr.g erEs hdiiandt case Vher fei ereioasinn sncn gstoa h cva ooAervewrreeeaanrds) bo uabynrsye eA t adthrhe i isaen aosabMtogrbteohrnfeyaeof eo ctr ltaeush ekrhsat ictnaesaitr e,xothc osdnc s rheHfaeue d o t tr roneahn ohe istrsfdecnaebsei ed : lse Rgausbt ne osirhiroregnt ga gfoehfrh hgne a c ftaiSts ldtehntsysesthned r ei dpaotiut plstsrefsnrw ha,h srs doo iloeacton ewVhf ar n c wsiednbsnleatmui dr, ntencl sidlahpoaede netnienemnc rnaid ritntk ogzi sir raQeo eyr heattl onhd,uf hyolV o.wu i, oaewTi siuwne ru hcSbntr n iatie pto ochnonhr ahaHou ean i ns akst oi tbate sit t fosnlhn moribhshep eidamoeus at Rwr ko rwinmemasig.fid yal oftA dla Q his armna poi.ktin tungIr.m a f aoaEd s j Stnmrifhoa in tecmyocore ha hrlsprpetdiso i depyo g oide sihtln . ot tgs ASNCDH AOLTSTEERNGRRIUNNGD ScPhaAogltsetese r1ng0rri8un–ng1d 1a 3nd StephPaangsedso 7m0– Q89uarter section, Introducing Vienna, locates the city around the city. Carefully researched tips for (pp68–181). They are highlighted on geographically, sets modern Vienna in its hotels, restaurants, cafés and bars, markets other maps throughout the book. MTUQOSUWEAUNRMHTA EARLNLD ohthvisretorouvrgiiechwa lt hcooef n tyhteeeax crt.i Vtayine’sdn m ndaae isanct r aaitb Gterlasac netvcioee nnisst .as n fcaoonundnt sadhi nionsp Tpsr,ra eavcnettlielcerartsla ’a iNndemveicdeesn.,t Tf arhonemd S suwprhvoiarvtas tl oa Gr deuo id ien teInox paVm iseingpnhleat,s at. hTt ehaye G yhl aeanlrpec eya ol(spuop l4uo2sc–ea6dte3 t) ot, hf oer ToPMwagnuehssea u1ll1m Q4 –ua1an3rd5t e r 0 ymaerdtrses 500500 HQOUFABRUTRERG STEQPUHAARNTSEDROM HoPfabguersg 9 Q0–u1a0r7ter Vienna Area by Area starts on page 68. This is an emergency to using the transport system indicate the location of the three guided walks (pp182–9). the main sightseeing section, which covers and its ticket machines. NOAPSECRHAM AANRDK T OperPaa agnesd 1 N3a6s–c1h4m3 arkt BQEULVAERDTEERRE BePlvaegdese r1e4 4Q–u1a5r9ter Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section Each of the six sightseeing areas describing its history and is made simple by the in the city is colour-coded for character, followed by a Street- numbering system used easy reference. Every chapter by-Street map illustrating a throughout. The most Numbers refer to each opens with an introduction to typical part of the area. Finding important sights are covered in sight’s position on the Practical information provides all the detail you need the part of Vienna it covers, your way around each chapter detail in two or more full pages. area map and its place to visit every sight. Map references pinpoint each sight’s in the chapter. location on the Street Finder map (pp262–7). V I E N N A A R E A B Y A R E A  7 1 7 8  V I E N N A A R E A B Y A R E A S T E P H A N S D O M Q U A R T E R  7 9 S d j6xf vS40hS3wnriptlierg neSJGKSAFBJDHAGuedlcoeuälhnmroeuwidhüicnrtdneihmtrs kenö ngiecHaiecse nagaheanghrort np lasnesta MmafDsgtlsr nfstdaeritesaeoeaiagtes lesrzrSsata knkgs gosrqstetie gafca s G u tsaetshs sas lesra eS et nsepche 1ansdom 19uk7t2lCe8Hshi s uWHSHADJDPAB tFpIitetorPocleaoeitscnrnsahraeiupmunilhtihdntiseshtscige-et osiecmp aRHnercBseml ananinhPai k uratEskuakyo kaohdniunil rteaslnraoaeo dg cdsCrecufumshei oe rsSnezCnken r uec pogi asetrir pkfecs tht a7i h nherCoov4cectefh–h e da7esnr ceaciledsrsyh dsiuyt oao cgmpa5qczbyoMrur rCFRMCAMPHKsnterepuiualenaraoaetcptpsu,unrezchth8irsarazmrak ei4e skira dsdcMka– tifs nakerhtimr5c oramaua ratcM h nalse sMuhn G keMeueHhsedi ueursr o uVkce sm Gfisuthinre nkaercmea naduh lin elmeoea fsr Ai r epspat nleiemdo Arr ctse n eatauh,p mmte ha baelaspe roFTaSotyrSm 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 157963248ehesoe56704903812r0h0fae cp e apmyeletalh.arsh rTorCAGCACDFGHCDFHKlRe rse5iwsaedrito ö eainkweragSOr a sbasi esefnfanSansaTkmestlgiTé n semisit tekn&stotaRiscoagorn dh-giaE inelPDEKNFehnRIr ar&kdsl üKaoCe f6girunrnoe voteit alüuiTgOH,o tnelgro rhdsanFktu eWc sbahltatihlnoa dasbn Pr eakgäa nPfneas doe nen uoUoö Atshe dslih drsrR rsrsnfnate l ulmce o 2 pdugHrntearh5rbtiep2atn ep hv0 Wl5ae R2ertMo,e0nr1h otsrfear 0isrewnmycr–o i aAn h1saIesmaI tn2t,nue nsde rc tk i xu gihcNsielcAdmrse1paeMcna0er 0 pahHvR4tmrdOc2 eai Focsi tono otSmiCougrOn eN anPs t CLaf nhPA DsOorAsTgR PeSoZquDfLS2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 2 eAI A sAmVuns125603478912TU- qZtEi acRse eu 2orSORSÖPSDMR Oeneacal,evesfal0enhlrse s wtEezrcS kiI0et n SöaTeah KraEOarRc0lrinNme.CuruonUle-h PedKbP DdMLrtcgiLt-SAtiO a tISAiMckhate&T caTLTneZRFuhpE-mPZ4l h pSPwLltKe3-ceHaAh l AteDasTakriSzZrNiDSabt ntl ritantabS smnta-Esu-s uo e2di tSd grsS5gmMphta0Qtic hpmegnehAtiatolnepi Karacakgsa hnksr sMtrseasePiaUO LdnanoRAspZT gos,fIZhN h pt-mt otaih1lchAauv2, ea0 etetsm lzhs e rsc.pn e keMRges 4ynfo1 coalaFtivt4ncro0ae3 3 3 34 3 3 3 4 eT0u yerSdcm13460257389r c.k s h n uoi psew solmltTSTWZWZVWZRfay ea ytoEitsfidautzakrehaeSr e elkuh mtCten ainliDoHeHtrnhsbcnPs-e eWL S -eh eWsBSAtkeRaR rtrGLEnTbuyf elU hcD aZ aisoaBsbeDE Emc chos uG3nNReasWhifiki-wEs-nl tKufbg-tiRi Hso1tAlhsiHi-yoTcRi7csY1STrDS2ltoAblGTciR7Slr2TcsYtS1DbAoGleaok5PerdcRksisiaLpereh0hteueue LiherhehebnblhythytA eaeoms-aciozs nrnr2Tsesehnsr r e h ctntjejeiut kteuZtsitiGDG.D .n ecscotmtm.esesr tphtph aeahm,nge tcearhshuc e1ed erinilnlsueinihcphph sa5sao r cstu i i rKr a,au,au 0 SsSsis ibnsnsghtim e en ananameaerararc h sat ckae rargagmn n rsnhshse cliaieaemeoatGtl l tstcdcdnknsCecupupstntnPdedeVhe E bil O iLhohoefOednlnldip itp trAr hryeyClelelwewsaRca Ts s oaoadIeHfetgobogGlbmZasasac rhp - l nE-irir DiDioi ti t TtTtunenerm tst.t.dat-oeththrhototvininhNsohenlednonoibeidida o odtc s sa cmneu cu cdBhpl kN N uos aiairms s a näuäuieamynmynlistknanAtrcrcnorhrpepedisdydygererkrin,epepe - -a cl c c o a ae ytordcaAaAhlSsSsf rere .i. i inenscescerso Rasiututvs tutirl,iyfynfnE,h a ads s irirt a aetse h hrAecitesesedTSTl en o1 1 tetet t r tatahKhaKau3T hBeaTcTc.säbeiei e7e7rseYhaeahernhnhYetntnuo -f oatvyesyestdéemtntn ur uwAriuea ea Haomom i:i:eHaASt r r rn nono(sc c adecycyilt4OnR d dyauiahm m sc5gc ns.Etehö e0,e KTe e h & & lionlflfnA-a-a a anlhdnif s s dnutnularftHftHhthteaio o eroa)ae)egrdrdoat et er r sa e ihsvmemeh u uan r:potVaoar stefatatnesislil flfhmclrlr u . rlilgVetaieaeehaiai noey oenbeisaodnfcs a numum Ectsetnetrh thnhs s c aooa:o:ot e eh ne.af ryrfo ean n oJtio e ahihdidrndotuse tgulec .iyror otssum .h u mc o aTboare Rsto-rtatreMdwqMwdqa nrhnsecosthutue n.oecpramh atoit es- eCo sdirfah btnbordhesywies D ndcsh u arhr.oehaklelele. rM ecrRoda.tuioedsnoeoesw ul lwf amIaV s ss 0Tgs0sTgthareSveve Sel calcta t thnthih nthiötsiötsesin nsec nrn alrhnclanmaha t mtraeeN metr.e mronNi.nn.g6Amat iogng a. ag 6sahs s tsee ktosereuÖ saastcgr Hitegniavet .seeso rtsemets7Oc1kBd7c1BdkOrr2aiadrarriD3i3t ectgtDoe7ehoiqsSon,dt e miutfhamao T rhoelolone nilencin r yEp mtcn ohc hiprhctiPkoe uhikortousasenhghriaHsH nrsecnseiecn stfhneseh eAeAe1in ttri u6rn6et- N - 3 tian0iS8TMmbJ8JmTMbs hen.htyDehyaos i aontsuJts ihOt etetipsehsut ese heotuetLSMLSM usinpJOrOhelwdNo MeMHnpQeitoePukAtO cuUEAUEA es aieSiS Sit RFrJuARaArRasQitC BcBnArlwrKedR ntHtHinetUf h tTp ko& re-e-eRsUEceokets aiGrRr Rt ihiriF.ma n iunAcAsMitOuniSr hlT Te d dt rikntadfoREcEhceQhtP peprhrfeiUcUHh e e TsTm oteA Aro 1h tBeRNsaEifcm6Te,S pa nuVE.D2i RsRshrRtRa i O Oio0 2 Oe rpwtMl eqsn&coh .han u on6shseaete f lb ’ese Btu1o 7shial6,ft3 e r2iVot 0ai qwespun.aoenss atbl’ use i l t krsS%Toc2otTspcaiaraTst scGcwTiFbcdNcS&CTtserihrWtciliaelseohoeh h h nfraeanet aurepty1mrohts i eadTeuhanuTiaiuleaigegp,ncbg ulm mtn3srnlr iSnheD3e senretaleotetlr urbgo ge1k.sci tutemact–oc aou eDuetrctcdeiereh Are bhias2isers5 ylh eahinienedsoer pteytahenre: tdh-utypOk r uaoioryr i dhMaougd:hOtshisacemh fosa uides tmc lrsOt3er rurnel Aura sasrwa ses Gcsdtph oan meop adsGc.idshcand c p ctKn.i snhW n eaeohc miusnos hrif ei∑tTe s oaroeotinopwdef, atctn n dsmpdo 7mdt hte(h Krnasnroieundtbcfrt oi1 eph dh.d’ldat guih 7 sc hena ot rdn5crenMdcdecie1cheads ile sause htqyshi2a& cnTaiep0ic o ceczt lies eg mp lEafi0hnvi orsrsaelr,es oyut.av1 nantro e iFuir s-o) yepcrhplese H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E  7 Vienna Area Map Vienna Area by Area sT ftmuhihxlaiel s mp c gc ha(ousaielnipode tuse iein.rg reEs hidiandtc se aVhe rfie ereiosainn nscng tosa chva oAoerverrweeeaarnds) b uaobyrsnye eA adttrhhe iaiens ogaobstrbMateohrfneyaoeof eo ctr ltaeush ekrhsat ictnaesaitr e,xothc osdnc s rheHfaeue d o t tr roneahn ohe istrsfdecnaebsei ed : lse Rgausbt ne osirhiroregnt ga gfoehfrh hgne a c ftaiSts ldtehntsysesthned r ei dpaotiut plstsrefsnrw ha,h srs doo iloeacton weVhf ar n c wsiednbsnleatmui dr, ntencl sidlahpoaede netnienemnc rnaid ritntk ogzi sir raQeo eyr heattl onhd,uf hyol Vo.wu i, oaewTi siuwne ru hcSbntr n iatie pto ochnonh rahaHou ean i ns akst oi tbate sit t fosnlhn moribhshep eidamoeus at Rwr ko rwinmemasig.fid yal oftA dla Q his armna poi.ktin tungIr.m a f aoaEd s j Stnmrifhoa in tecmyocore ha hrlsprpetdiso i depyo g oide sihtln . ot tgs ASNCDH AOLTSTEERNGRRIUNNGD ScPhaAogltsetese r1ng0rri8un–ng1d 1a 3nd StephPaangsedso 7m0– Q89uarter (pp68–181). They are highlighted on other maps throughout the book. MTUQOSUWEAUNRMHTA EARLNLD e tInox paVm iseingpnhleat,s at. hTt ehaye G yhl aeanlrpec eya ol(spuop l4uo2sc–ea6dte3 t) ot, hf oer ToPMwagnuehssea u1ll1m Q4 –ua1an3rd5t e r 0 ymaerdtrses 500500 HQOUFABRUTRERG STEQPUHAARNTSEDROM HoPfabguersg 9 Q0–u1a0r7ter indicate the location of the three guided walks (pp182–9). NOAPSECRHAM AANRDK T OperPaa agnesd 1 N3a6s–c1h4m3 arkt BQEULVAERDTEERRE BePlvaegdese r1e4 4Q–u1a5r9ter Numbers refer to each sight’s position on the Practical information provides all the detail you need area map and its place to visit every sight. Map references pinpoint each sight’s in the chapter. location on the Street Finder map (pp262–7). 7 8  V I E N N A A R E A B Y A R E A S T E P H A N S D O M Q U A R T E R  7 9 ci RT1tSr7TsD 2lScYA o Gblsiaeheuehebhyt oonr2sesnr e ctjeiutiGD. ecotmes tph ahm tcarhuce erinlsihcphsao ctu i ra,auSsinsghtim enanaerarch st ckae ragn rsnhse liaemeoatl tscdnsecupstndeVh bil ihoednldip tr hryelewsac s oadIefetogbmasac rh l nEir Dioi t Ttunerm tst.dat-oethrhototvinhNsohenlednoibeida odtc sa cmneu cdBhpl kN uos airms a näuieamynlistknanAtrcnohrpedisdygerkrin,epe -a cl c o ae ytordcaAhlSsf re .i inescerso Rasiutvs tutirl,iyfnE,h ads irt aetse hrAecitesedTSl en o1 tet t r tahKau3T hBeacTc.säbei e7rseYahernhYetnuo -f oatvyestdéemtn ur uea Haom i:eHaASt r r no(sc adcyilt4OnR dyauiahm sc5gc ns.Etehö e0,e KTe & ionlfnA-a anhdnif s dnulrftHhteaio era)egrdoat er sa isvmeh uan r:poVaor stefatnesil flfhmlr u . lgVetaiaeehai ney oenbeisodnfcs a num setnetrh ths aooa:o e ne.af rf en oJt eahidrndse gue .ir tss . To RsottredwMqansosthuue n.ocramh its- eCo sdfah tbohywies D ndcu rohaklelele rM ecR.tuiodsnoe ulwf mIaVs 0sgTthareve Se lca tth nhitötsise nn rclnah mtaetre mrN.niogn. ag6s se Ö H 7c1dkBOr2aiararri3t cgtDoe7ehiqsSon,d e utfma Trhoeloleni yEmcn phctiP hkortuehiaHnrssecn sesh eAe1int r6etN- 3 in0S8MJmbTs e.hyDaos i stuJtshOt etipht eseoueSLM unJrOelwNoMHnpQeiePkAtOcUAE s aieiSitRFruARasQtC cBnArKedR tHieUfh tTko& re-eRsUEcoetiGr Rt hriF.ma n cAMiOuniS hl Tdt rntaoREhceQhPephrfeUH e Tm te Ao 1hBRNsaEf6Te,S pa VED2i RsrtRai Oo0 2epwM qsn&o.au n6seat lb ’se u 7ilt3 kotcSoTs%2rtswarspFsaTia GTcdbNiwcTcCTS&tserihrWtcliaelsehoeh h h nfraeanet aureptym1rohts i eadTeuhanuTiaiuleaigegp,ncbg ulm mtn3srnlr iSnheD3e senretaleotetlr urbgo ge1k.sci tutemact–oc aou eDuetrctcdeiereh Are bhias2isers5 ylh eahinienedsoer pteytahenre: tdh-utypOk r uaoioryr i dhMaougd:hOtshisacemh fosa uides tmc lrsOt3er rurnel Aura sasrwa ses Gcsdtph oan meop adsGc.idshcand c p ctKn.i snhW n eaeohc miusnos hrif ei∑tTe s oaroeotinopwdef, atctn n dsmpdo 7mdt hte(h Krnasnroieundtbcfrt oi1 eph dh.d’ldat guih 7 sc hena ot rdn5crenMdcdecie1cheads ile sause htqyshi2a& cnTaiep0ic o ceczt lies eg mp lEafi0hnvi orsrsaelr,es oyut.av1 nantro e iFuir s-o) yepcrhplese INTRODUCING VIENNA Great Days in Vienna 10–13 Putting Vienna on the Map 14–17 The History of Vienna 18–41 Vienna at a Glance 42–63 Vienna Through the Year 64–67 008-009_EW_Vienna.indd 8 03/10/17 10:59 am 008-009_EW_Vienna.indd 9 03/10/17 10:59 am