EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Spain 001_EW_Spain.indd 3 26/09/17 11:49 am 002-003_EW_Spain.indd 2 26/09/17 11:51 am EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Spain 002-003_EW_Spain.indd 3 26/09/17 11:51 am Project Editor Nick Inman Art Editors Jaki Grosvenor, Janis Utton Introducing Spain Barcelona Editors Catherine Day, Lesley McCave, Seán O’Connell Designers Susan Blackburn, Dawn Davies- Discovering Spain 10 Introducing Cook, Joy Fitzsimmons, Helen Westwood Barcelona 142 Main Contributors John Ardagh, Putting Spain on David Baird, Mary-Ann Gallagher, Vicky the Map 18 Old Town 146 Hayward, Adam Hopkins, Lindsay Hunt, Nick Inman, Paul Richardson, Martin A Portrait of Spain 22 Eixample 162 Symington, Nigel Tisdall, Roger Williams Photographers Max Alexander, Joe Cornish, Spain Through the Year 44 Montjuïc 172 Neil Lukas, Neil Mersh, John Miller, Kim Sayer, Linda Whitwam, Peter Wilson The History of Spain 50 Further Afield 178 Illustrators Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas (Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo Barcelona Street S.l.), Claire Littlejohn, Maltings Partnership, Northern Spain Finder 183 Chris Orr & Assocs, John Woodcock Printed and bound in China Shopping and Introducing First published in the UK in 1996 Entertainment in Northern Spain 78 by Dorling Kindersley Limited Barcelona 190 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Galicia 88 18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 R2e0p0r0in, 2te0d0 1w, i2th00 r2e,v 2is0io0n3s, 21090947,, 21090959,, Asturias and Cantabria 104 Eastern Spain 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2016, 2018 The Basque Country, Introducing Eastern Copyright 1996, 2018 © Dorling Navarra and La Rioja 118 Spain 202 Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company Catalonia 210 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in Aragón 230 any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording Valencia and Murcia 246 or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-2413-0604-8 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Colourful exterior of Casa Batlló, Barcelona The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Title page Madrid’s Plaza de Cibeles at Christmas time Front cover image The charming Vila Vella, or Old Town, in Tossa de Mar, Catalonia Back cover image Mountaintop city of Ronda overlooking El Tajo Gorge 004-005_EW_Spain.indd 4 26/09/17 11:52 am Contents Madrid Introducing Madrid 270 Old Madrid 272 Bourbon Madrid 286 Crystal-clear waters in a sheltered cove along the Costa Brava Further Afield 304 Southern Spain Travellers’ Needs Madrid Street Finder 311 Shopping and Introducing Southern Where to Stay 558 Entertainment in Spain 420 Madrid 320 Where to Eat and Seville 430 Drink 576 Madrid Province 330 Seville Street Finder 453 Shopping 606 Shopping and Entertainment 608 Central Spain Entertainment in Seville 460 Outdoor Activities Introducing Central and Specialist Spain 340 Andalucía 464 Holidays 610 Castilla y León 350 Spain’s Islands Survival Guide Castilla-La Mancha 382 Introducing Spain’s Practical Information 616 Extremadura 404 Islands 508 Travel Information 626 The Balearic Islands 510 León Cathedral General Index 636 (see pp358–9) The Canary Islands 532 Phrase Book 671 004-005_EW_Spain.indd 5 26/09/17 11:52 am 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide helps you to get the most using maps, photographs and from your visit to Spain. It provides illustrations. Features cover topics detailed practical information and from food and wine to fiestas and expert recommendations. Introducing beaches. Restaurant and hotel Spain maps the country and sets it in recommendations can be found in its historical and cultural context. The Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide five regional sections, plus Barcelona has tips on everything from transport and Madrid, describe important sights, to using the telephone system. Barcelona, Madrid MADRID 287 All pages relating to Madrid have BOURBON MADRID green thumb tabs. Barcelona’s are aTarhneeadsse ,S eceaitcviehisl w laeriteh d itivs iodwedn icnhtoa pter. 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U nle onsy BptNseemIAAlS .mSAsIoe ec. ls I9sm aanafd aes L - naa Dtilsev no 1Lssr&t oR E MadnA eBacaZDZale di OHnnOPEnrco i rtRodtRraAe deR.old eL PmfI oaEoCLsl,era pALb c,atC eAwLhaňsaeCÁÁPae M sadANL erb ttorSAusODon iadlTT ZtVontEe h blIdMA ALPeyL u r asSLdeooPOA SEO DEL PRADO 3PPLLCAAIZBZAEAL ED SDECE1Wte ALhlAeiPLiL tsgiHa hn LLli aaas oEiEcrnDTmithtwpt teotiAso tse nn FbdLhleore eETeRo hlAoLtloireatefDIe z hlédtPsl auohNOpCRALA ED ZIURb iEoeneeynu q mSIBtuPaeiVpinaeeovrCAilda la npsvim iacnCstnsAri isotst.oeey iLd n rsHe iipLd oa,dhCiisslordl E,lcm, gClC hup cuAAnoAeeoiLLacIXi OSNOuFLAaNLLchohCALLE DEtEiEogTh OTERO nMrddDdnDeOiTdtaasEhEwg hett Neea gMae oAM iW, InemOM s Llas O5SfcwaCNotyoiiicsrlln eth rAatoT unyo t mh.reAyiM nlLufcipen seiL IÁmo nt non FrA s eBPfems ildnrages.oduAeiUapemnao nse NffpettnItrdc rReeoNkcoegutAhlPrwmiinma D oawAte scd( dLalasodEl e etyyegetsrAePl e anr rnibrmi Da ndtdEAcpcZhieenrgtoe6oe.Nlaosia cAhCALe 7LE tsDE A LuFONS O XIIaeDt)t t. dmh.e,l i ádEfDtdeeuhrpn NlblEi sC sloLIe.A rF7ATwsmA ho hhrataeasroi teaTs s8TsRPncueaws 4ARieK hhrfemudnshoacoce tee df fSDduyittaau moyrt r.iishcfMsaoscohtnoseaou Stieialte odunscLSnróMumus nu mgrnePfoie ost nroso ees gmuaaqadilrgrce neCR rfaMerialysduo a aaeonpa o,er,tgsitzme tan saethtthfnd a aii óiueeodw oNrer via e eerdn1ndo rRemrdrmipa i aba dm 9eo.ddt(PS efnrrs eeMsr hco.e1ssSanypuuei l yiusttn 2eop l sCorsaaahBa m mgt eC optaen uipncaeers2bryesbtuaeiiyspt a 9 dstonRFbea, .os 6hablir o netele l)d d eusdftuele e iseee stlrmdlreh o 2e s oemBae,st,0 l fbuaat /sahtn0epihcsi7nd sok ne7/ sc 2f, ,w l8a0 p15 i na11:4l0gk For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp568–9 and pp592–3 290-291_EW_Spain.indd All Pages 20/07/2015 11:40 006-007_EW_Spain.indd 6 27/09/17 10:10 am HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 CENTRAL SPAIN 383 CASTILLA-LA MANCHA GAulbaadcaeltaej ar•a C•i udCaude nRceaa l• Toledo • Lciatgmmhaadroees vmMtan eclteouanl,a srnmtss,tu ccasseerhiilecnlinahz sti’ieso.m-c dfIu eitmal smelbge tobydpteu reCs ticndly eloiti trabaafiv enbieSnastoapn l oruyvata feties nnyT ust,g.o h niiTelnteelhssi td Di,sw, s dioo wesir nnnacaidda nnmQermdacua hepCitilxloilluycsaor e iigvatnzneinooss’csdr,ina t gwe es.mep daasies r cra ede n igoedinvo taenhl oehf at ws o 1 ITnhter oladnudcstciaopne , history Spain Area by Area YrMwbmbCMN Vmalci OedeoruieeaulsTCshgteooaudulsttciioeteruagsislsw wt oeiuklTvttiewnnseoeli nnoeerae cutwa ndtaeithcee w. lh m a–hnhclosedeSnne ir aanee,drci eaew goel1c wCt r ws irSihii Aüfias4ise htbnt thpt emaa Metyrhgahrpufihaa yg.inlcn ki esuuieogIios-mehlznttio t rnesnónsianaf c,aldteiiw ngngin, nnarihhn mwsdeiBcddm ad ce estatriaeeao,sh h he ird n1aevanl Css me mvtea n5de a . hahcaC ao ttrsdm 9sboae tCrchla ub r itfs nohoasMs-aaorhtcatcottsnftivlclas–titia eeoetamleAtttedpla1t, lnioan rnceivr niA2cm a Rtatr at geseaadotusvlugeu ah ar.pnlcinra c ronónrOgr oyoard iccvbulneatg gflaató efey yisJn hr ae -san.nroes dnegsisInitn,wntvat r duidss nsetnit r.i s .hgeicheir ess s , gsp nnCRaCpreaaCt1Teoternsx6liaaeouaheLmaeg wmpttdtbateriaeazuiihnhgakoo mann aspbAMr cesneñnn:acas llmhi stsho ebnaenal vaoh o;ei’ fqilfransdaglaol efe oflpl lto acu c y lsua ncLhst1ioea,hfioemht ,haad e8 Artulvtra wbe ikaeee tweMvi’lrS(ssh nrcl easime spe fita oa.paee it–csh elccoVg srn aaryhl sioelaattrainnridiaci ehlannonifzdfhlrn eh sfa re tsgd vtdrea a shsan utob mersaTsseqn u eeau.rnisu a r sduraiio AearA eetb Min oec a ltt urvlsstAsblh frcora ombbp.n apoe bletaesuOmn ertlhci)ra de eailan.dwaatgulecuutnseaieduzena whs otgv Ads.d t liñ stb DCTefroreyilde;ouladco h ld oseaanioeiwl an ne anni’na Is euormTn nn rdr sawdiplomtietfua daiu has lelt irbae;e snthne gltu.n,gydwe etea mdero sanos .t nd , arshcteohenag ondsoi wto dffcuneeihrn rivaie gsetrs o aloh oac utopnthtewedleridn wtov ehoifhsd eveiat ehaaotrc rer iet htrth aeoh e, da sa y. Aabeccahinnaeptciaddeaehpn rsSot t, o edtetfhfrvori o.vewi wlTimlrdehh npe, ei sBctld ahahma ciern necho dctesaso oltsvto o u1iianln ln2 vaatst iege,rrs eMryepietg s,ahsa ,iar otad airnnsert iegs d, numbered on a Regional Map. 384 CENTRAL SPAIN CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 385 Exploring Castilla-La Mancha 382-383_EW_Spain.indd All Pages WindHmanilglsi nagb oHvoeu Csaems opvoS1234567890qwertyuiopasfghjklzxcTdTtcAmSaoSpie sodrohnhoefri t ete tuguo hrademDTTT VVVVASMLGSCSUIOMTCCEBAAAALCASShClrdereaarvolaaraaiiiileeher uoaa tllllliucase rgels oeihiooacbcmlbCmHmTlgillle giirgoplmlsaeolneaedlAsarentdmüaaaroré lnuenaltiunr vtapócdüicwan andasseabstlrltnéeavs bdc ípet áceacnó arnuoiomdbsengouadtzcp aee lQneanaaoe aeaor s edaazaonaa seínerdrleds peapw ntveazrarl ls idoaqc tdse pu oge pt tgvrre d eaña pdorMjAisl zcdeni dlu aieae nrdapcal aoai Aeu3actea aallD vaxere et Ja3ca etnis9 sAdai l hdCúC ,nosnT curdcua8 l2 C eGNderqRaoeoCtcarie8uiatda –remu p il tuualruie –pelnRgea leti7nenalyo eAariéaae9Ci iet sddóls z nCe s(on iaasatv nolqi n,sue norln hm cnIctansteeirnrf u uaapcraaonaee .efTa a fec ear,tm L oa Lvpepgna t,eas lah 3tnlCr iercMsaenao,ee9a sedssiaBd,tn9 s ,n nAioc Oeleeca)slriah. 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The tranquil Montes de Toledo TomTlheoCedttr aoorapseari tnwasgui nlsbiilaota dw ly-nii cssLAh aiwrtslia rbc Maeadhanllia cslar soneeutpi tncnnsoehde g rb(arot vve owiiiesstauw de ibtCnd wGeebuf erswayeeetnr n qthide ttMcuhisxgia enp afha)rn.ldgo -onOtsrm ripeaAedtthne d,Mwr eedS obrdoea swuydrv lAk oniircls ViwloaddeeErf,,.. The village of Alcalá del Júcar in the region. 390 CENTRAL SPAIN For keys to symbols see back flap CASTILLA-LA MANCHA 391 3 tibD oioonnAotrnuEefdldwhol iat stileetvdrcanhhhmrrihiioid ,e dn eolp fweea auo gRrlnirdtn amalesecitl co ilo aoigfilatpeiynn wneyino.soo d f,fTt o dio nrtthn Shbothn reapogayem e alv init yin mtrihtMinteha sssa e iip tteccdatirroisoa eo e opan swnl drorfi.nlu trgiebeuWnsoa m hetrtnsdn eai c ttqtbteasid oh lcun.seed oiicinrcddinvnirk ne i egl byrg,.a e c dh RUOA8STM&TooutTega e–ppatpsc 9U∑TsnmdoEaUsstMhhhouoeeaenlinhhhsxxu cnfffraeeeupcstuwmeu oloMNceeeampplupg ydteeeocSSi orslébe s il6tLv8éoeSMtsn a mawif) eltphplea e sn sc Mbpao.2 clooelieiasRshhm sdt,ruaoin see Cagiol 9ncimmaéreeiClcp r r oc1ioiisasnm s aeab Mfeorlteel mto óinb byhoisu0,7iht oro bdbelmc nldg c,tsgaafdedeAeeCt: ya f–5bef yu sl ah pd( ay a ae a Cirllm t hrcmgund.a na ses rtn llaacr n2irh,te yntlai ióTs qlhe datei cdtncaRpstst hrvoneh2ag.,–gn,ca erchee cschnauam ouo ehs–O pain st r6eisss1h bte5 ooal . emmscse es eime pi l’esbtV pou.aisT n7Asmrabm, ca mea.w cu&s sida T alop daeoml 1t.m∑e,nrspgor” epket e ciln tnel h tOlColt6n3chlpufesoasssf neei d celo aó rh ’b9oet motdseeeM,a3 sptlpreoorgJnr anaapar - ul 6dg he femearavrrt o4 Rfcyreoo fe-itermqtrrom9 ceriainil laiiaeeis3–t eelmoaenfsnodiismclellf ytiduuic,h avsyi1le1l tni aii5d neUh s o dusmic2ndSotTioiip.(e,30Dian nee ,v on. t).ctedg5i tu te sam sSci e,u.itd riya( s guledo5s l ai v,n bnek e syr minslOle D“ab C nn 0t éa dirn c amiiEeuo–o8d a huucetongnttlm ye co ulr.SislleSpl5h iiassfctctao oeis mi cw cmaaaegó,f euplE5 ho8egtmet o ma 2oips.dghrmtinsg hewlb8 n.snt&oaredemitn oaót a,be3ro nc. y0hro wl.e Jpr tb tn n cbrue ri h o8 l yueoi rh-af 0staireat gha deot,gea-i 8 i.hlfor rlg t0es cay’ li ssa&iy ) rrhEaye - ah , .se . l l , nd(atitlptNtdMflsbIwP0T_IlWOHomaoltr1hihhoaelne3oeu eoaoeetlcroc2hlheree de9etdap nltrmt esaas atoSFaIc i doi5 rc 1Chtloto,pT veitEaalfsr edCeooi) ia itoe5oid–v lroa1 l.ionns .athoe a d stt teTnetowtGn1*y1frrntcaa ha nehrfioah ,rwamo3id7. 1l rn l nes l et d)uytTfn e aeaItc44 vz,h Mdohatg, re ah2hedcdi c, aeha i,e dests re esa3gl9e o Motibahtie (au ac sn ,lr 2F ift3ein5 mwirAslo sseseetaehibn5tea1gí0ld iisi aaucn n( lncfail ae0lgja 51ae Atsig iieC afs ot cinn.phs t i1er 6i norustntc £uuavaeeoil eu eeluntg1l ftBelnesrr en h y r sn(0t)TmytieaI 1 e.dc ha t dI - thc@ o∑5R’r1 losc- oeacobmaie1s efeaMv ca ft.qud se n tVn ae(orneiiariiu,ltvalaio itrrluedrrse’e u)esigcn, s r i s TcEoVrdnPatdsi cryhnCea.ilafsgm raaee u gn.nenizsr tit.yeata .d. tacs aemonr wi easld ui.o c el s rl kVinsihr TgMI(ScolCRCqT(Aaebbsac5hc sat1td cos8arhotueae4loeacna/pni6zfaeurl a odiona l prS TAeillurnrnRetlds0ctclddls uvn r i oleevaW H)dhTryos dloe 0e yetRpo. deaegp aig beilstmr uC ∑ onnocv aedrj(aaar3lera cn) msmeoo e1as.adoa,rdeitvP se s5l erene*c5myF issrtm o r,patl ed.ydo d(a saa&n h e o–dei tgaiS Oatl(dirveocdduerarnr a a1thttniae n a i11 ik kooesiptineem aleuuap88ctlvn l’scos easod tVs5lea elT alenl9 vhTcMeo atr uaeda ovetM lfCbcat nal tJsdiye,ncarfeeae S 1t0oferelrph ntbCHut)iiraagkeuu ahtde ;le taelvrnng0g hr8et Muañ oS-iertwn eayjibctauorsr thwes0e ooe cttuleilev ai )span rnwt aio .tolaEae.huu,sru behdlgc eonwrf beehn ria.omoe£Vafen b oto-rty stC rnnReimtwMoir sr lise Mmtelcc–y raosgr21lhoeldand dt noaaiu.gts umtR .ehSt e lc2tasu 6aadlauoeccei okFru h@eowpaaioer lno,u ptliezn2 rtnhse o) r wrhenltlne9dtrew p,Moik hsot f . .iy naatygin t P uon2dsFas zua a&fh sTfd otah a-mrnp hanet uc5r e v ob r evrtoel d.rse(taisdi trz terd ae2decracey_le leiw8ol rihkfto Eou in a L0e h rdti nv 1G9a Pv7z2n s1tdbraebyt h ryl–ufoc 2dereyh 72hai.eeoh L2otm 6en as e2g eet5eLnerIs sjt,t0esod3uh et thlo3tkdla ee he b lt.af h ithS to op ss nsh2ritn h-hy.as -y iaw2s aec n -e.a . 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