Table Of Content

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Loire Valley 001_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 3 18/10/17 11:56 am 002-003_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 2 18/10/17 11:58 am EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Loire Valley Main Contributor Jack Tresidder 002-003_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 3 18/10/17 11:58 am Produced by Duncan Baird Publishers London, England Introducing the Project Editor Stephanie Driver Loire Valley Editor Slaney Begley Editorial Assistant Joanne Levêque Designers Paul Calver, Jill Mumford Discovering the Design Assistant Christine Keilty Loire Valley 10 Photographers John Heseltine, Paul Kenward, Kim Sayer Putting the Loire Valley Illustrators on the Map 16 Joanna Cameron, Roger Hutchins, Robbie Polley, Pat Thorne, A Portrait of the John Woodcock Loire Valley 18 Printed in China 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The Loire Valley Through First published in Great Britain in 1996 by the Year 42 Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL The History of the Reprinted with revisions 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, Loire Valley 48 A blue room, with tapestries, paintings and 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015, 2018 furniture, in the Château de Chambord Copyright 1996, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-2413-0614-7 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Château de Villandry’s ornamental garden The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Title page Aerial view over the River Loire at Amboise Front cover main image Château de Sully-sur-Loire at sunset Back cover main image Château de Chenonceau, with its gallery stretching across the River Cher 004-005_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 4 18/10/17 11:58 am Contents The Loire Valley Travellers’ Survival Guide Area by Area Needs The Loire Valley at Where to Stay 200 Practical Information a Glance 66 230 Where to Eat and Anjou 68 Drink 210 Travel Information 240 Touraine 92 Shops and Markets 220 General Index 248 Blésois and Activities in the Acknowledgments 260 Orléanais 122 Loire Valley 224 Phrase Book 262 Berry 146 North of the Loire 160 Loire-Atlantique and the Vendée 180 The impressive Pont Wilson bridge over the River Loire, Tours Stained glass window at the Cathédrale St-Etienne, Bourges Château Royal de Blois 004-005_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 5 18/10/17 11:58 am 6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide will help you get the most from with maps, photographs and illustrations. your stay in the Loire Valley. It provides both Suggestions for food, drink, accommodation, expert recommendations and detailed prac- shopping and activities are in Travellers’ tical information. Introducing the Loire Valley Needs, and the Survival Guide has tips on maps the region and sets it in its historical everything from the French telephone and cultural context. The Loire Valley Area system to getting to the Loire and travelling by Area describes the important sights, around the region. The Loire Valley Area by Area THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA  93 1Introduction The landscape, history TOURAINE Ibenae ctehhni s od gfi vwuidihdeiecd,h ti hnhetao sL soitiixsr eore Vwganilol ecnyhs ,ah patse r. Tstiaoatotonlf lrt udFuthahrr nrelaaoeug niasuns recohnece u a dhf ictorse et oarkth eynlineotsptso tniw answrg liuot c Lnhterhoh la c dtihethro e itoib soew nVtrdfooacolyarealryl ykd efa .o ay ttLrnh t rortdeeahirgi crfeeei t co emarhntdniaa.l d etrTghm hinlteaeis nfo k itrcdvironeeislbgnclriu anstv t pgiwaase nirtht,ied oeimtr sreqrs.aa u Ackfinrehdion eâd mgntee s d a u x arsehngodiwo cnihn aigsr adhceotsewcrr toibhf eeed aa crhehea r e , AfbtnRooeuo um gvmoniikasodb.pi nt Te i aniohrnelsfe dMiet dmh aaaeecnop htsds.he tr e peri engflorgtioeotiontrneent d shsct aoiocnvvangeen arpb b oleaefec tneh se TLvochPhmowbRiuTRVnooihhlieinnfeerCsaold aolcauneerlFifcnahdu tneeouhrr neaontfmcaaal , argee aid ctrgdhasnruagssgsuholo st eri ,ecl e bt eao detutyasttCeesd hnnt haatnfrta w c h Va htaitdcemlBedtn t tbiItoeaeict ulnIl t ttmo IeaClnt a hm,ooreoitb h gignesLhdos a nuiitrcovir o fits jcltaaol,nwFhelisen uuhclainnt uryosssâaeheihatlaodtis ntnornxtttn–naie ecwc hh dX rtAgt pcrcfha ytr eaeo IC eeta hnruIf, ttt , hooor ohr fHahe jx oalauose rdveanre een tfnoddtue txtu nidA nuedthlqfaeari.lcho n r nrr erImtFlutee,eystiemnah hgr c Jeixd war wlpcIiCaoelI iItsyy onrts et lta a hoae aeatEerh-çtfarn,sefalgoF ,h n roiue f aAa rgErriiaaragon ie oletmnnsaeizslt lfosgnmn h ai ng sIossaAn c yidhlhVwi olahr.n- e.Iclnn Iaed d s- , otraigHTfocpfpalitnyoiehol ssrsfnauoiTTincgri ehn murmBoowcr swladti sgiuereoopudnhtauaheee,dnu nu eragteiumiifnvsnesitrt’eyrr n.sr,easies cgf e,stTro o e,ag lero iT,t u– hv a,ritcicfb oexnuela e t eseeteTwtcaahu.cprt ilh o aelyaTtr salser,eatul.e su ecalohryhC rlrree wdeci ere aiehnefhfladaonosisg r ee neiibrt u. emtnnr iuotloa gIs ulnioitcveo-tsrlr sp slkia ed tui,h nila b sea ntnalgdm oiisi n o senk ntgadoro,pfoi di oafcn nim wuna l t mtrnf aotwdhe ervsgahnpecyiu,.eee rmnn ,Vede lwrrnwg aabga o ar ioo1oyepteehoi giun tnugn6vgfpttoahev a oats erleiat ir ehioob clt ioslsanf nt lsi uono,a lashyu cpde gnulln,r,teet do se i ma drgdioa,n ew tr ertsonsn eitneao ou -unosd kjwd c ortre y.h lyn se, . hctoea nso tdffueerrive etshl oaepn vedisd wi toohvra ettro itdth haeya .s Each area of the Loire Valley can be A locator map shows the region quickly identified by its colour coding. in relation to the whole of the Loire Valley. 94  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA TOURAINE  95 The Château de Chinon, on a cliff above the River Vienne 3DoAadTftedohnhaC1GTtifSbtpfCrithapirECaabbsrtfcawaeeennsnlrrooiohheoa3otetttlrnvuooyoroyy rntoortcet-tau g eree iluneh lxt edtdaPgrmmsrthseelattnobt -tthahipuehrsrctrirrdshh c otee sdlestes sciteestnpgdu5le eediscetp-btT Ped hieeen nrtS.ggCief-a r irln ooe rstialtcrb ttschaTm elno,yveetaulii-Lgho i ah eutreooganhMhint intlcuree ao ss -oioLsmeebhyihytendrsnnndeii hansoda R gt oosrenicr ccnAeayor tr e .drt ,te rhup t w i askAriwoK aoaeoP Tr lttihrsrItvudiersn.nltstnnreareelhial e kueah1ror e a-e,o ne Hoi o ica waot dmndeyoClbrwe t0nhSecssai e eahgfti uissoIsMMSM MMRftrt, afsi o iot ry a atnun lnlthChiefee a Dt .es-eph rowhTsntataye oaaliirnbhdrPc gnnyd arilbu ch h opjioooa9n ait nnfpoltnooiediiitoo yesc etsolorgtev;htuselepns5nwrgg rfo ei rr, e rateh rrv hn hdUt ,a1ecrhdwarn err2Llrrad dtd dr.oorra;e2eeoa.fsit g aeoaeirh u o l e ssaoTih sl atiwhaTe.aef ar vsprvlVer hy .sTeebuspmwsdaybhe-di, Il.dLown mlineeaT- elrit éeodlgttiTsrstro era ie oyee tgu rh ehoddr roarhotr,ioyomeh ar,gtdnw si e iavTrlhe eAeo oV fviwrrsceg eldDCnns sio G de are-rae t crazi u,rt eaho fA7u . ldetVe rlastl Sulr.slT s5seng h8e n s eyap Ils:hr1ipons5 nh ae-ny fLo il e ornto.a vedsan mcc CricneGp-n ikh fsR ehilwachegâmy aongi toneâiadttoo eanftasifa frelanM e m kutwloeleoialeaoisel, UmfanuO gorau od wT TharLrng Sg rooxo aenAEantnd dutunho aMEcd m iCSfiD rcrrfdee na TBaTRiiaeArALocnt Ecfa n-o i1eLunA utMnNemVdvursdho 1galB neerIDilmRi LAt ecNbsgyneE tiiéhanEtshe u aRolILuanr’i aliÈsSenetAtTeiu iBdr-biRsssselxI edeIe NnE uSsrn ypo teta tdmwe giaC esnAd a HeSuit,ovd ltD lo. t vRyoCLMi’TCitoa ninl Ule SthaE elesoRCétrWSaabyrAur-mooaStmPirChriUCcnn-ÉaadnVhp hdHttsuoieeirâlnlgwiC-tuIvtCecVvnNeedHloayeHFa eiOli-ÂoLuelryHÂiCnAoè-riTtNorlêrITaENNmVesnRtre-uEA. dGhQmiIre ACUd Een-e nLHiJeM ,UVAsaD E C Esiu t I SeAESiH-SCLLDlntRno IR-oh nEnPau’ gi ISAiaeTyMUDrivLn-teCiCPaE ELgZMeaCCEosihlAASnLrnérhhVAnAâanm'-rsâa éUÎ- tLIRreelYtmPLeeUaiere - 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5cvehwesi.gshM1c dytg e fTru osetaLa ekh9e1nei hn rnhcaud feqm4 , t5sCe iaesai te .TDLDctgcmebe(vleattwmtpeyaa4rltutasuodsnaohhhlhhln u, eharennnvnhlléaal i (.uooseaaed ct ruarcuur 1dueaerâfd1rrecârmne tjdS-t yasrfldhdidfoeryest0te scetcr1 d larta iats.cq lLm lem h, Ln ne ieseymuyauohf erae dp s,7onI pch mhokt uBuiu.oyttmt osaearlagitpwn snn c hta ornits aoemoaLeiyplaroefyl,mihuodunrseit irdos tgeosenifna hlwtspelirs ntr nrau y av- en yia ao)i y art pdbi tu d es omunfo ewgs o entr Vhn, os latc ftu siinceauyh lsgorfe m.Mieukadhre oveatie l bhs . ntrnel evi lu see orv skesisl l bbf,dn etede,as eem eouaedt eoworantywg rs sdrdnor rtsnfl.nA a,o e h hl c ditoitd uiwpilat .ddnhgwhsehn eeacg Tdhwmaeceo hhenaue ee OSg+C∑Tm1irwptivbt ypmtaynse rsjoaem hi suCuhrhl8ostokiy lpstaccdénloiC hpstnx ekeoan,eehotfsatuteei u relr e he uarlnehkcCnkhn eégeemaa ot se p amm tn,splslhiwpsrp -gCm shs ondi-oshtm,untmyrls,lpa fs.hpac esitMaih rt.eâmerdb e eosb fogbhn iOrcLe abms bew uentMu tTha haiaeor xhi- lfoussgeorysdeeacneâde ysPue t rdtncp et i oe tdOtys e-faovf iTbda naarstirttnhilrJaoc t mrrc.rn yosuutupau d sidosu Cnnuèehi eoihspbntAeeetur; an Usupt rsn .Ro wudd reheaa mreed smam sdlwey tRnTl eoctt–gRamaponksvtr e r.eei iaRa ,ulionBcmc iy yitajea&h rdriseuird anly fhseuwrn.nhliCep e eto wd sen-ye0tnteAvicdpehp eI ls Sdtgt dâas)hdfsltbp2id rea ktthit aoe oe.l tuf-s,.8fHtu ewah ia.I cS ieilhelsTipuf4y eedobrrnosearteaoHe yum rve Neode7Css –isuevlat yr sofevospmlladhn bik ubouasr m f pyearu 2pio ecfa h aâ:iEnaente nfi io ns4lsglgMt.ocstifrlfra ona pe ds gl dtcuisudwt ha 9 mfao,yoeoudu-i t e r3 nJueni, rnlunf n sun  a iiev t g 9n– ls n ihd syr3sS g:eie sh.ale ,9t t er ,r rd7l,gt iegaipidhnos,td n . important buildings and other major sights. 006-007_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 6 18/10/17 11:58 am HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7 4 Major Towns An introduction covers the history, character and geography of the town.The main sights are described individually and plotted on a Town Map. 118  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA TOURS  119 A Visitors’ Checklist gives contact TETspmtpcoomlpsAtscMdchcR raMlcbaTretwhaa hTTtCSi’oeuohhoeetewbiolertnohoHathoooauauvhfDeiureioutluaeOCwl-eeteea xsontcrbildlerrumueuur gieFraoroGtyg,frhlsu lG st dnan ldlgi.-tl fintbd ’esmtrriissror r rer éeanipttu ePntan clpoai sOahé eoaleeytiisilaro oienli stroremete tmottmtecnrnlswdga,fnnle nssagturhsen shnyosuT.niy be,mlgvhfd tgg ted tpa é Tes coteoaat ao etebt tcnrs H hlocautaWetNet nbeh ns hohheihreennsaoms lhdn co hosweeeseairllfa wc iisetc eee elaeo ,t gcetod ll–aefca fr(r edol w mrhlst eso.ptiamt- ns aowe l rs Bweeoarnemc h ntrpnos ces MfiIoeiyotnelmsenchidu nhnr n eeseesag oaeenec msweewlCtnpsiio, naBktmta, ie tgeg e tain,pr t l m rfet dvih tnueeftcop fctcarceehal nieshso u hu.ihoaotura enhder tigconut tcaauinpneosrs rNteegpoiooxeednr jrfe Cri’lciesdeesuigttaunato it1 crdgf nevtdl e tamfwPoem ieh eo hhh iAav dsm ltpier3h2 –s iit atcir el trsltTnnttllt gteiitxoethRe eye ur0n erarrolU aihrnvyo,c ol haGbh ,te 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EOGULooIha eeR MnEteL ArELéERen utOadIrA àAh Rnr nrtS LUidrPse e eCHdRER. esEôAE CF Ét00lULEOeaM dLymCl XI BeLaGNTEBRYELC U PEeo UDBSrAbiTocJrigiiMsmchacMpoUaERodmnnstteuRu-t-Ebhohn hrGG5fpilerfs ISErZsye sTeePRn(∑£@TtiVmaa ot0aeERtsyaad thtmuaiOtpcsmeSo0m QelentrurrsorrrtnhtaTvhteuR eemILpaairUaltt npo eaa irposEUas AST itesy cle deaii S phDnm 0ucTeot7ppeR(iEirnno iwrdNh 5meopAè hnL o Ihnlu 2oti As 8tnClll5rtdluulCrl ’nBw T iBi uis aae edup eem0ea eooA ddaogFcsi4mr bRfraat sun sgROtn–ad irryDusotra Euunmi 7nè s otaa edgts posoitS,c Creidl tr'r ni Ruh dhl-nUFeGGopiRd7t n nAbuOdE eietmh aeImR t1,e csaepBLSTsot0n AP ePAoééuDn) VeaySsyI1ReHDtm g uhOL9CeLegtd N(EI(innflSAÉ.uh w0At3eIr t 2 LelEA h di’rÇo1t3DrRreutaLCh_.o gCg0c iééh7RnrE6 oaAashecROo0hcCE.EeTriD i rrmA ofrAerac )I0,b*bssnhm 3SaarapaJf RhlL .iCRiOTH-rymhcEta yEurmcmN ll7ntaUdd tuoaF hoi aeif a(LLee utllK r i.iFnfiuSêEs ây, tEcgal enie setee PyMB taa1erlclnaade stiertgugi a. indeAcceldaerC esdepl4obfggtmoruiry mtaCS iaalllrrleedd.c osdci0tmeeii)isutl tpnAa teeKeuun sSeeof ;e éo-taT, p.hrrGMeomtt iGM0sxF eroo aeeccHhcgtrLTNo 1 sy-tsyed0oeaw ..owBASo uét’of Oode .2 is bit ,I0 hOip dssetiors utesir c1t MdSS ee eat.eeetpI.tr misa r hihaSs) hcfan thrmisTorAv 1. TEns nl àral iiisoleoe1.Scaeocmbm lt d6.le cnh ld ’ sAy –us ketel a, i1ay pl 7 yt , pidnaofoyinsrTmatpat mtooasnhsloa un damvefjtordtoi tistTiisre orrnil ott aodttn ooowoihc,n, rru faars pn fsolrs.li ol tci tAuufsMraeenetgslt sslge aa iht dtoat npih-wvesnnrd e atososida tlh,ats f h idrp cilodigas nahatws nhhottr ueasekstefrps s sirc man e .boawhlgslurar etee,trs s k l .le t 102  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA For keys to symbols see back flap CHINON  103 5 STspotreweceniats-l obinry td-eSirstetrsreitc ettots Movfias ipto rs 6Tccwot–sERHcrurtlrhht ineaiteaocalfâhe en ntfahto6St u edssrraCae k-Myyfe brasehGoEt d aPJouidanârénro imlv,rtt ngna scaheoeettnltéahhnaae n rtitrt eue n sehe1aaioLo e dg sue4midfoton ht 2exAseaRfn ao, 9 nf -sr rtirCrhnwvce. heko wbheI eostee(ntm,oasriew tnw ehmyrVpsnl l poteia taialt aa eahnled-ptstasinciaee n 1Sny hsdemns 4 t wgMeb.aiiae 1netuI rnaina.nu)ed t c rsstBsdh sa hettttageéer sahhrsh r leioitf eooairdiefev lsfer dtnw e wn etot tis’ o onAhde amat hiyr tae r t1egyic,e:t rhn w.1 LCh o ba ebe To9Ctarhlyhte hdhs9iw r iirdg Mgeneec.eeh a’a hH neoaH ttaVrnrr o-nrriihia aicsls isiw’ihosne vloonetfl oeer eano nlrha-o rlity lsi o-r a hddnu.aede e ri,tn e nrsh,dt e This 1o4utth f-rcoemn ttuhrey oTctolohucerkr dttthooeeww l r’eeHarrmso s artplaloaonrgndtgses. .aNw ttMh oaaew usp Es oaaénnr melgcia leduims ’sthAhee rieunnt mtf s ae.1 cIç t4teo aw 2dnLmfd 8ra’eleHooe.n outciig ssHfagt toaloFhôo rh rrtftaidnu-iresniieanrtlècom odTrenroe ’eyts ’rbhs, n ft taeitCehrel srclwidatsuo s aabewnstri ui tcdieaetialghsemdl.a ipnintgs t Cawveedsrcu ePhTG£PR*(∑1Vg oaâr5ora IauriatmtaSnie nhcTgcn9bdacIbhths, lid0 Tvcinutpmeuic0edeneOa t.oa0 irt ansoTnlGla r.lp R et yntt .nIah tunl -Sm Dhev0rfe’yo32a b p.C. rl e4dlm tH7Het aaol9Eo.t f3@ihiC or1eenK7i.m c bL8ol.5v Im .dS T A sugawmgthgriievoeeti h ssnsatt hgpre ieomd haaw or .pbontooui rirtdgnte’ras adfn-opeetr yh tasaes iwgi lvoehaifdlet ktsw h3, De o ,f Ttlrhdsr1.oeehch7eadcperteui eorChgnr peectg-iehnohs cins tâebg eiaetintnznehsdpe e,t(ate eaeasJduu lreodut’r astehtay ithi lfrn penoutoe 5a nlfoa nl6opFyg fe)rfr e ,ieA,t wn sastnrte.h ca rcI ye lnhl.s t ehnec rlooysael RUE HAU00T ymaEerdt rsesST–MAU505R0ICE RUE BEAUREPAIRE LEDA EURPRUE OJEATNNEE RD´ANRCERUREU CERA RVUNOOETLT RADUEI DUUR GREENIEQRR AU SEUEL EAMIIL E JCHEEBOEARMTNMNEE RDCP´LAECAE DRU CGENERAL DE GAULLEcoohspahMessAwou mrsnwiapicnMnieimue gase1durlobc mp9abtisrenretttoléiaehvyecc sRekd a-kdhsrci ol e n nA fdfiebhastuiiggnunsqteçogo uitaa urauVmeuerrdmneesei,dr eendsédyass-.,. cino tvheers a trheea .most inter esting streets QUAI CHARLES VII 110  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA EHwrltoehgeiwtetalnh ieissrn tryAee i pn nIeSIag gptrre -elttMeb hvo.uieanf iuwRl tvro ahtimhcuaeiltsat sincs, hensuoqrwcuhe imthper oethrpsasepmiT voRhepsiev iRast eiecragrth msbhVâ aatipte rnefnearako nr uamoten’ssf. CHENONCEAU  111 Twhhoahifsv et echrer edo Jisososmlradon ofa ouodrnGfst ,tiA rfeaiaredtcn d taidh stt eo sCa awha iwdernrae ,to rliolsti. K eAy Sb1urgo8g8nFe2zsre tabe snydftac ç aEremootmluui eosteibelu e,R rsm aaH stbaeaédestbi elrteaih sriinetts,. ySobbpacdpGocoodtflyeulaadra lu diapeil lfnn llCeosrsdteiitstctc tcrrtieiy athnmotoyhhiraib,oign ofe nrFa olnd a nergâwloln oa .s Vgo fo aTa,nv t teaftfachsheç w nrH refnoeledtouieorederi esarftsea ns insing ntr aCt rihsitsa ssnituolht, ef luo I aloofIefp eruI Cllrt v eosrabRemhadioe oleayitearrv .errs na c ,tetiOLe.d ahed htrrToh gt e e efChiahi rneser Ceohgrceet t tDa Geemror cwce urnô hashh,a aor ptalmCâaâ lturc eat hemntkFrehecresietrysaeeâaa, enn ,iutss iGnunninoe n atox cahacntoh .rhrhltou lcel iSuheb sele Rnubddt er uaRhoeyrysi uioner,nle l c oadtt inlg ain hd Mus ofae is eaa snttntiféssh nhaadr aadstroabteeahnmairu lcdn ueeescig tc es s ih .e ct Tsg.thruee dCe wyna bwavlielenslr veoeet fot VC.reiagrtihtnearlilny ec odvee Mreédd wiciitsh’ TAcwbweaoseint ptwlhhlte-u af Fswursltyer ratn,mi hrCeimseishhs pehaenr ndtaoad crpn otdiecoceesemcta roiuisner. aists th tehhe ui at1nts6 g t h ATPRTOf8_∑£atVohe rorusprIeaale gaS de n0cVcPClfd:frn eI2thisr-9hes Toigt p me:iecdea43tmuOoan oin7a0aalislrdri oeo–ppRl2 .sty Ine1nn& p3n c;SDda1 cc cfa4fdpe e’o3ohnt 4 aeomaC.7rre u h m0uuacNH xi2dr.nkro,c a.e . 0a Eowoci t iPariltmCeyo hund )b onKr .oinsPnwiLeotee nId (o SJl oufroT ali Pr&d a d. For all the top sights, a Visitors’ CTvpacsaretoac hihbalpauaceiaolnnksl atpcmtleteceehheded braulss d lg phc sei sn elieeclane illu1sl l iash1sn9l.vp,9 a 4gTerts5u4h es a3a,i ed nna. w nedwadd si t bhy Château Guide Cipnlhfaoenrc mykolaisuttir o pvnrios yivto.idue ws itlhl nee perda cttoic al Ground floor fMwwwH12KroeaihEatmn shriTLYtq rpe oh imut aIuheaIeiIof ien.sTtsn etoe1feoaru 5 ddmgttrh ehr biadel -lyLmc ae.doecsserkn ,Mr a ttaatueanhiarnrd yroqes cfd ’u saahe ensrecsotdorl e o shrku amonurtfoesv btidtvhsa e einns d , An6PdM5aTadrl)hlaé,i enriT elVoptlh yeayTiec-dnahN tTl sr bLhem eotysrheelo ieCse e Gt (h sGr1perias7rarsarte0sclecete5eretsss–yss-,. CRbhCivereainrdtto hhCgnheidceseere riaed n fulloe’ee’.Osrs g 6FdirglD0am oeG nnmri eaeMrten n (a dgt1iéenin9n adb 7dedl1li y-fecee5st tir)P 5syGPyh l6 eoaati– dlogilit9bead ite lrefleheroirdseretry. , which stretches across the 111111123456789012345 VSCTLdCCdGCSCCCdCCGeiaaeeeeaahhhhhhhrabrllasbb baaaaaaalorrMPMtenaapmmmmmmiirinonn bdsiiéédeer iseebbbbbbuLetiddelleeittllorrrrrr leeeiis eG eeeeeeccVdud Fr G iidseaieiddddddessrslsra’s eeeeeeeE ttCX r r s EsfldVDFC aiI tsoeVCerertatioaéhasanitrnnenehmdqçsreeôiop n rRm iieenses eeiI n es 6 mbrTTeohuvopeielrds eaSei lnip gtagahrhsgee t eiasgrsr iie.vn I emdtenisrp istoowerrcsott.a eondrt to Stars indicate the works of art or features that no visitor should miss. 006-007_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 7 18/10/17 11:58 am LV_008-009.indd 8 19/01/2015 16:33

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DK Eyewitness Loire Valley (Travel Guide) PDF

266 Pages·2018·76.709 MB·English
by  DK Eyewitness
#Geography #Local history: Tourism
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Loire Valley 001_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 3 18/10/17 11:56 am 002-003_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 2 18/10/17 11:58 am EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Loire Valley Main Contributor Jack Tresidder 002-003_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 3 18/10/17 11:58 am Produced by Duncan Baird Publishers London, England Introducing the Project Editor Stephanie Driver Loire Valley Editor Slaney Begley Editorial Assistant Joanne Levêque Designers Paul Calver, Jill Mumford Discovering the Design Assistant Christine Keilty Loire Valley 10 Photographers John Heseltine, Paul Kenward, Kim Sayer Putting the Loire Valley Illustrators on the Map 16 Joanna Cameron, Roger Hutchins, Robbie Polley, Pat Thorne, A Portrait of the John Woodcock Loire Valley 18 Printed in China 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 The Loire Valley Through First published in Great Britain in 1996 by the Year 42 Dorling Kindersley Limited 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL The History of the Reprinted with revisions 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004, Loire Valley 48 A blue room, with tapestries, paintings and 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015, 2018 furniture, in the Château de Chambord Copyright 1996, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-2413-0614-7 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Château de Villandry’s ornamental garden The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Title page Aerial view over the River Loire at Amboise Front cover main image Château de Sully-sur-Loire at sunset Back cover main image Château de Chenonceau, with its gallery stretching across the River Cher 004-005_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 4 18/10/17 11:58 am Contents The Loire Valley Travellers’ Survival Guide Area by Area Needs The Loire Valley at Where to Stay 200 Practical Information a Glance 66 230 Where to Eat and Anjou 68 Drink 210 Travel Information 240 Touraine 92 Shops and Markets 220 General Index 248 Blésois and Activities in the Acknowledgments 260 Orléanais 122 Loire Valley 224 Phrase Book 262 Berry 146 North of the Loire 160 Loire-Atlantique and the Vendée 180 The impressive Pont Wilson bridge over the River Loire, Tours Stained glass window at the Cathédrale St-Etienne, Bourges Château Royal de Blois 004-005_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 5 18/10/17 11:58 am 6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This guide will help you get the most from with maps, photographs and illustrations. your stay in the Loire Valley. It provides both Suggestions for food, drink, accommodation, expert recommendations and detailed prac- shopping and activities are in Travellers’ tical information. Introducing the Loire Valley Needs, and the Survival Guide has tips on maps the region and sets it in its historical everything from the French telephone and cultural context. The Loire Valley Area system to getting to the Loire and travelling by Area describes the important sights, around the region. The Loire Valley Area by Area THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA  93 1Introduction The landscape, history TOURAINE Ibenae ctehhni s od gfi vwuidihdeiecd,h ti hnhetao sL soitiixsr eore Vwganilol ecnyhs ,ah patse r. 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5cvehwesi.gshM1c dytg e fTru osetaLa ekh9e1nei hn rnhcaud feqm4 , t5sCe iaesai te .TDLDctgcmebe(vleattwmtpeyaa4rltutasuodsnaohhhlhhln u, eharennnvnhlléaal i (.uooseaaed ct ruarcuur 1dueaerâfd1rrecârmne tjdS-t yasrfldhdidfoeryest0te scetcr1 d larta iats.cq lLm lem h, Ln ne ieseymuyauohf erae dp s,7onI pch mhokt uBuiu.oyttmt osaearlagitpwn snn c hta ornits aoemoaLeiyplaroefyl,mihuodunrseit irdos tgeosenifna hlwtspelirs ntr nrau y av- en yia ao)i y art pdbi tu d es omunfo ewgs o entr Vhn, os latc ftu siinceauyh lsgorfe m.Mieukadhre oveatie l bhs . ntrnel evi lu see orv skesisl l bbf,dn etede,as eem eouaedt eoworantywg rs sdrdnor rtsnfl.nA a,o e h hl c ditoitd uiwpilat .ddnhgwhsehn eeacg Tdhwmaeceo hhenaue ee OSg+C∑Tm1irwptivbt ypmtaynse rsjoaem hi suCuhrhl8ostokiy lpstaccdénloiC hpstnx ekeoan,eehotfsatuteei u relr e he uarlnehkcCnkhn eégeemaa ot se p amm tn,splslhiwpsrp -gCm shs ondi-oshtm,untmyrls,lpa fs.hpac esitMaih rt.eâmerdb e eosb fogbhn iOrcLe abms bew uentMu tTha haiaeor xhi- lfoussgeorysdeeacneâde ysPue t rdtncp et i oe tdOtys e-faovf iTbda naarstirttnhilrJaoc t mrrc.rn yosuutupau d sidosu Cnnuèehi eoihspbntAeeetur; an Usupt rsn .Ro wudd reheaa mreed smam sdlwey tRnTl eoctt–gRamaponksvtr e r.eei iaRa ,ulionBcmc iy yitajea&h rdriseuird anly fhseuwrn.nhliCep e eto wd sen-ye0tnteAvicdpehp eI ls Sdtgt dâas)hdfsltbp2id rea ktthit aoe oe.l tuf-s,.8fHtu ewah ia.I cS ieilhelsTipuf4y eedobrrnosearteaoHe yum rve Neode7Css –isuevlat yr sofevospmlladhn bik ubouasr m f pyearu 2pio ecfa h aâ:iEnaente nfi io ns4lsglgMt.ocstifrlfra ona pe ds gl dtcuisudwt ha 9 mfao,yoeoudu-i t e r3 nJueni, rnlunf n sun  a iiev t g 9n– ls n ihd syr3sS g:eie sh.ale ,9t t er ,r rd7l,gt iegaipidhnos,td n . important buildings and other major sights. 006-007_EW_Loire_Valley.indd 6 18/10/17 11:58 am HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7 4 Major Towns An introduction covers the history, character and geography of the town.The main sights are described individually and plotted on a Town Map. 118  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA TOURS  119 A Visitors’ Checklist gives contact TETspmtpcoomlpsAtscMdchcR raMlcbaTretwhaa hTTtCSi’oeuohhoeetewbiolertnohoHathoooauauvhfDeiureioutluaeOCwl-eeteea xsontcrbildlerrumueuur gieFraoroGtyg,frhlsu lG st dnan ldlgi.-tl fintbd ’esmtrriissror r rer éeanipttu ePntan clpoai sOahé eoaleeytiisilaro oienli stroremete tmottmtecnrnlswdga,fnnle nssagturhsen shnyosuT.niy be,mlgvhfd tgg ted tpa é Tes coteoaat ao etebt tcnrs H hlocautaWetNet nbeh ns hohheihreennsaoms lhdn co hosweeeseairllfa wc iisetc eee elaeo ,t gcetod ll–aefca fr(r edol w mrhlst eso.ptiamt- ns aowe l rs Bweeoarnemc h ntrpnos ces MfiIoeiyotnelmsenchidu nhnr n eeseesag oaeenec msweewlCtnpsiio, naBktmta, ie tgeg e tain,pr t l m rfet dvih tnueeftcop fctcarceehal nieshso u hu.ihoaotura enhder tigconut tcaauinpneosrs rNteegpoiooxeednr jrfe Cri’lciesdeesuigttaunato it1 crdgf nevtdl e tamfwPoem ieh eo hhh iAav dsm ltpier3h2 –s iit atcir el trsltTnnttllt gteiitxoethRe eye ur0n erarrolU aihrnvyo,c ol haGbh ,te 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iaalllrrleedd.c osdci0tmeeii)isutl tpnAa teeKeuun sSeeof ;e éo-taT, p.hrrGMeomtt iGM0sxF eroo aeeccHhcgtrLTNo 1 sy-tsyed0oeaw ..owBASo uét’of Oode .2 is bit ,I0 hOip dssetiors utesir c1t MdSS ee eat.eeetpI.tr misa r hihaSs) hcfan thrmisTorAv 1. TEns nl àral iiisoleoe1.Scaeocmbm lt d6.le cnh ld ’ sAy –us ketel a, i1ay pl 7 yt , pidnaofoyinsrTmatpat mtooasnhsloa un damvefjtordtoi tistTiisre orrnil ott aodttn ooowoihc,n, rru faars pn fsolrs.li ol tci tAuufsMraeenetgslt sslge aa iht dtoat npih-wvesnnrd e atososida tlh,ats f h idrp cilodigas nahatws nhhottr ueasekstefrps s sirc man e .boawhlgslurar etee,trs s k l .le t 102  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA For keys to symbols see back flap CHINON  103 5 STspotreweceniats-l obinry td-eSirstetrsreitc ettots Movfias ipto rs 6Tccwot–sERHcrurtlrhht ineaiteaocalfâhe en ntfahto6St u edssrraCae k-Myyfe brasehGoEt d aPJouidanârénro imlv,rtt ngna scaheoeettnltéahhnaae n rtitrt eue n sehe1aaioLo e dg sue4midfoton ht 2exAseaRfn ao, 9 nf -sr rtirCrhnwvce. heko wbheI eostee(ntm,oasriew tnw ehmyrVpsnl l poteia taialt aa eahnled-ptstasinciaee n 1Sny hsdemns 4 t wgMeb.aiiae 1netuI rnaina.nu)ed t c rsstBsdh sa hettttageéer sahhrsh r leioitf eooairdiefev lsfer dtnw e wn etot tis’ o onAhde amat hiyr tae r t1egyic,e:t rhn w.1 LCh o ba ebe To9Ctarhlyhte hdhs9iw r iirdg Mgeneec.eeh a’a hH neoaH ttaVrnrr o-nrriihia aicsls isiw’ihosne vloonetfl oeer eano nlrha-o rlity lsi o-r a hddnu.aede e ri,tn e nrsh,dt e This 1o4utth f-rcoemn ttuhrey oTctolohucerkr dttthooeeww l r’eeHarrmso s artplaloaonrgndtgses. .aNw ttMh oaaew usp Es oaaénnr melgcia leduims ’sthAhee rieunnt mtf s ae.1 cIç t4teo aw 2dnLmfd 8ra’eleHooe.n outciig ssHfagt toaloFhôo rh rrtftaidnu-iresniieanrtlècom odTrenroe ’eyts ’rbhs, n ft taeitCehrel srclwidatsuo s aabewnstri ui tcdieaetialghsemdl.a ipnintgs t Cawveedsrcu ePhTG£PR*(∑1Vg oaâr5ora IauriatmtaSnie nhcTgcn9bdacIbhths, lid0 Tvcinutpmeuic0edeneOa t.oa0 irt ansoTnlGla r.lp R et yntt .nIah tunl -Sm Dhev0rfe’yo32a b p.C. rl e4dlm tH7Het aaol9Eo.t f3@ihiC or1eenK7i.m c bL8ol.5v Im .dS T A sugawmgthgriievoeeti h ssnsatt hgpre ieomd haaw or .pbontooui rirtdgnte’ras adfn-opeetr yh tasaes iwgi lvoehaifdlet ktsw h3, De o ,f Ttlrhdsr1.oeehch7eadcperteui eorChgnr peectg-iehnohs cins tâebg eiaetintnznehsdpe e,t(ate eaeasJduu lreodut’r astehtay ithi lfrn penoutoe 5a nlfoa nl6opFyg fe)rfr e ,ieA,t wn sastnrte.h ca rcI ye lnhl.s t ehnec rlooysael RUE HAU00T ymaEerdt rsesST–MAU505R0ICE RUE BEAUREPAIRE LEDA EURPRUE OJEATNNEE RD´ANRCERUREU CERA RVUNOOETLT RADUEI DUUR GREENIEQRR AU SEUEL EAMIIL E JCHEEBOEARMTNMNEE RDCP´LAECAE DRU CGENERAL DE GAULLEcoohspahMessAwou mrsnwiapicnMnieimue gase1durlobc mp9abtisrenretttoléiaehvyecc sRekd a-kdhsrci ol e n nA fdfiebhastuiiggnunsqteçogo uitaa urauVmeuerrdmneesei,dr eendsédyass-.,. cino tvheers a trheea .most inter esting streets QUAI CHARLES VII 110  THE LOIRE VALLEY AREA BY AREA EHwrltoehgeiwtetalnh ieissrn tryAee i pn nIeSIag gptrre -elttMeb hvo.uieanf iuwRl tvro ahtimhcuaeiltsat sincs, hensuoqrwcuhe imthper oethrpsasepmiT voRhepsiev iRast eiecragrth msbhVâ aatipte rnefnearako nr uamoten’ssf. CHENONCEAU  111 Twhhoahifsv et echrer edo Jisososmlradon ofa ouodrnGfst ,tiA rfeaiaredtcn d taidh stt eo sCa awha iwdernrae ,to rliolsti. K eAy Sb1urgo8g8nFe2zsre tabe snydftac ç aEremootmluui eosteibelu e,R rsm aaH stbaeaédestbi elrteaih sriinetts,. ySobbpacdpGocoodtflyeulaadra lu diapeil lfnn llCeosrsdteiitstctc tcrrtieiy athnmotoyhhiraib,oign ofe nrFa olnd a nergâwloln oa .s Vgo fo aTa,nv t teaftfachsheç w nrH refnoeledtouieorederi esarftsea ns insing ntr aCt rihsitsa ssnituolht, ef luo I aloofIefp eruI Cllrt v eosrabRemhadioe oleayitearrv .errs na c ,tetiOLe.d ahed htrrToh gt e e efChiahi rneser Ceohgrceet t tDa Geemror cwce urnô hashh,a aor ptalmCâaâ lturc eat hemntkFrehecresietrysaeeâaa, enn ,iutss iGnunninoe n atox cahacntoh .rhrhltou lcel iSuheb sele Rnubddt er uaRhoeyrysi uioner,nle l c oadtt inlg ain hd Mus ofae is eaa snttntiféssh nhaadr aadstroabteeahnmairu lcdn ueeescig tc es s ih .e ct Tsg.thruee dCe wyna bwavlielenslr veoeet fot VC.reiagrtihtnearlilny ec odvee Mreédd wiciitsh’ TAcwbweaoseint ptwlhhlte-u af Fswursltyer ratn,mi hrCeimseishhs pehaenr ndtaoad crpn otdiecoceesemcta roiuisner. aists th tehhe ui at1nts6 g t h ATPRTOf8_∑£atVohe rorusprIeaale gaS de n0cVcPClfd:frn eI2thisr-9hes Toigt p me:iecdea43tmuOoan oin7a0aalislrdri oeo–ppRl2 .sty Ine1nn& p3n c;SDda1 cc cfa4fdpe e’o3ohnt 4 aeomaC.7rre u h m0uuacNH xi2dr.nkro,c a.e . 0a Eowoci t iPariltmCeyo hund )b onKr .oinsPnwiLeotee nId (o SJl oufroT ali Pr&d a d. For all the top sights, a Visitors’ CTvpacsaretoac hihbalpauaceiaolnnksl atpcmtleteceehheded braulss d lg phc sei sn elieeclane illu1sl l iash1sn9l.vp,9 a 4gTerts5u4h es a3a,i ed nna. w nedwadd si t bhy Château Guide Cipnlhfaoenrc mykolaisuttir o pvnrios yivto.idue ws itlhl nee perda cttoic al Ground floor fMwwwH12KroeaihEatmn shriTLYtq rpe oh imut aIuheaIeiIof ien.sTtsn etoe1feoaru 5 ddmgttrh ehr biadel -lyLmc ae.doecsserkn ,Mr a ttaatueanhiarnrd yroqes cfd ’u saahe ensrecsotdorl e o shrku amonurtfoesv btidtvhsa e einns d , An6PdM5aTadrl)hlaé,i enriT elVoptlh yeayTiec-dnahN tTl sr bLhem eotysrheelo ieCse e Gt (h sGr1perias7rarsarte0sclecete5eretsss–yss-,. 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