Discriminating Taste (cid:2) Discriminating Taste (cid:2) How Class Anxiety Created the American Food Revolution S. Margot Finn rutgers university press new brunswick, camden, and newark, new jersey, and london Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Finn, S. Margot, 1981– author. Title: Discriminating taste : how class anxiety created the American food revolution / S. Margot Finn. Description: New Brunswick, New Jersey : Rutgers University Press, [2017] | Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifi ers: LCCN 2016025795 | ISBN 9780813576862 (hardcover : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780813576855 (pbk. : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780813576879 (e-book (epub)) | ISBN 9780813576886 (e-book (web pdf)) Subjects: LCSH: Food habits—United States—History. | Food habits—Economic aspects—United States. | Food consumption—United States—History. | Food consumption—Economic aspects—United States. | Food—Social aspects— United States. | Middle class—United States—Social life and customs. Classifi cation: LCC GT2853.U5 F565 2017 | DDC 394.1/20973—dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016025795 A British Cataloging-in-Publication record for this book is available from the British Library. Copyright © 2017 by S. Margot Finn All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without written permission from the publisher. Please contact Rutgers University Press, 106 Somerset Street, New Brunswick, NJ 08901. Th e only exception to this prohibition is “fair use” as defi ned by U.S. copyright law. ∞ Th e paper used in this publication meets the requirements of the American National Standard for Information Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI Z39.48-1992. www.rutgersuniversitypress.org Manufactured in the United States of America For my parents, Linda Kay and James Patrick Finn Contents Introduction: Discriminating Taste 1 1 Incompatible Standards: Th e Four Ideals of the Food Revolution 18 2 Aspirational Eating: Food and Status Anxiety in the Gilded Age and the Progressive Era 49 3 No Culinary Enlightenment: Why Everything You Know about Food Is Wrong 80 4 Anyone Can Cook: Saying Yes to Meritocracy 125 5 Just Mustard: Negotiating with Food Snobbery 157 6 Feeling Good about Where You Shop: Sacrifi ce, Pleasure, and Virtue 188 Conclusion: Confronting the Soft Bigotry of Taste 214 Acknowledgments 219 Notes 221 Index 267 vii Discriminating Taste (cid:2)