D I E T R Y I N G This page intentionally left blank DIE TRYING One Man’s Quest to Conquer the Seven Summits BO PARFET WITH RICHARD BUSKIN AMERICAN MANAGEMENT ASSOCIATION NEWYORK▲ATLANTA▲BRUSSELS▲CHICAGO▲MEXICOCITY▲SANFRANCISCO SHANGHAI ▲ TOKYO ▲ TORONTO ▲ WASHINGTON, D.C. SpecialdiscountsonbulkquantitiesofAMACOMbooksareavailabletocorporations,pro- fessional associations, and other organizations. For details, contact Special Sales Department,AMACOM,adivisionofAmericanManagementAssociation,1601Broadway, NewYork,NY10019.Tel:212-903-8316.Fax:212-903-8083. E-mail:[email protected] Website:www.amacombooks.org/go/specialsales ToviewallAMACOMtitlesgoto:www.amacombooks.org Thispublicationisdesignedtoprovideaccurateandauthoritativeinformationinregard tothesubjectmattercovered.Itissoldwiththeunderstandingthatthepublisherisnot engagedinrenderinglegal,accounting,orotherprofessionalservice.Iflegaladviceor other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional person shouldbesought. LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData Parfet,Bo. Dietrying:oneman’squesttoconquertheSevenSummits/BoParfetwithRichardBuskin. p.cm. Includesindex. ISBN-13:978-0-8144-1084-4 ISBN-10:0-8144-1084-7 1. Mountaineering. 2. Parfet, Bo. 3. Mountaineers—United States—Biography. 4.Mountains. 5.Continents. I.Buskin,Richard.II.Title. GV200.P372009 796.522092—dc22 2008035288 ©2009BoParfet. Allrightsreserved. PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica. Thispublicationmaynotbereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedin whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,orotherwise,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofAMACOM,adivisionof AmericanManagementAssociation,1601Broadway,NewYork,NY 10019. Printingnumber 10987654321 To all who’ve been told they can’t achieve their dreams. It’s never too late. This page intentionally left blank C O N T E N T S Foreword IX Author’sNote XI TheSevenSummits XIII Introduction 1 1 Getting to the Mountain 5 2 Kilimanjaro 24 3 Aconcagua 42 4 Up the Creek: A Quick Adventure 67 5 Denali 76 6 Elbrus, First Attempt 97 7 Vinson Massif 113 8 Everest, First Attempt 135 9 Elbrus, Second Attempt. . .Plus Exploits 166 10 Carstensz Pyramid 176 11 Kosciuszko (and Some Major Side Adventures) 193 12 Everest, Second Attempt—On Top of the World 207 Appendix:TheSevenSummitsGearList 219 Acknowledgments 237 F O R E W O R D It was March 5, 2004, and there I was, submerged beneath a tree in a churning, roaring river in Belize, thinking, “This is a really stupid way to die.” Thanks to training that had taught me to surround myself with a “bubble of calm” whenever emergencies or tough sit- uations arise, I wasn’t panicked. Nevertheless, I knew I had about a minuteandahalfofavailableoxygenbeforeI’dblackoutanddrown. Luckily, that didn’t happen. I was able to shift the boat that was on topofme,freemyselffromthetreelimbsthatwereholdingmecap- tive, and swim toward the light, where the first image that greeted me was that of Bo Parfet hanging onto a branch. Bo had surfaced about a minute earlier. It was day two of the La Ruta Maya race, and we were now last among a field of just under a hundred vessels, yet it was only the first of many adventures that he and I would share together. Often, the kind of life-threatening inci- dent that we’d just experienced shakes people up, and I wondered how it was going to affect Bo. You see, in my mind, he was still untested. Little did I know that during the next few years he would witness a death on Mount Everest and have several brushes with death himself in some of the world’s most exotic locations. It is often said that the mark of real character in a climber is not how he stands on the summit while holding a flag, but how he pulls himself out of an icy crevasse. Expeditions have a way of revealing a person’struepersonality,notleastbecauseteammatesspendsomuch